[03twin]

996GT2, on Nov 29 2007, 02:20 PM, said:

Loren, on Nov 29 2007, 06:11 PM, said:

996GT2, on Nov 29 2007, 10:01 AM, said:

Loren, on Oct 30 2007, 01:04 AM, said:

pshamsh, on Oct 29 2007, 05:29 PM, said:

hkduder, on May 6 2007, 08:09 PM, said:

Can someone send me the instruction too please?

See the post right before yours...

Where do I top up the pentosin fluid? does it do into the pump or the rams?

The hydraulic cylinder can only be filled in a retracted position.
Position the hydraulic cylinder vertically and fill with 5 ml Pentosin (per hydraulic cylinder) using a syringe.

my spoiler is in the lowered position, is there a manual way of lifting it up so that I can remove the wing and pumps? I've tried putting a 12V supply to it and I can only hear the motor running with no movement.

I also understand that there is a special tool required to remove the rear wing from the rams, is it absolutely essential that I use this tool or can I use something else to substitute.

many thanks

I have a questions with respect to a 2003 X50 I
just purchased. The spoiler appears to go up fine once the car
hits the proper speeds. It also goes up fine when the manual
buttun is depressed. It takes a while for it to come back down
automatically and also manually (it waits for something to reset).
The spoiler failure code comes up after the spoiler raises. The
bottom of each ram has a little fluid on it. The car has been in
storage for 1.5 years. Anybody help me get rid of this problem?

[TunaRollZ]

Loren, on May 6 2007, 09:01 PM, said:

If you do not feel comfortable doing this procedure please take your car to a shop that has experience doing this.
This is straight from the factory manual.

Bleeding the spoiler pump unit
tt_spoil...bleeding.png

1. Pulling out pump
Pull hydraulic cylinder 2 out to the dimension Y = 35 +2 mm . To do this, connect 12 V to the pump. Observe polarisation arrangement A.
2. Bleeding short hydraulic line
Slowly tighten short hydraulic line 4 until the hydraulic cylinder 2 moves. If the hydraulic cylinder has reached the lower mechanical stop inset X, push back onto the stop if necessary, hydraulic lines must be laid parallel to each other inset Z. Tighten banjo bolt 3. Tightening torque: 15 Nm (11 ftlb.)
3. Bleeding long hydraulic line
Slowly tighten long hydraulic line 5 until the hydraulic cylinder 2 moves. If the hydraulic cylinder has reached the lower mechanical stop inset X, push back onto the stop if necessary, hydraulic lines inset Z must be laid parallel to each other. Tighten banjo bolt 3. Tightening torque: 15 Nm (11 ftlb.)

Note: Use only Pentosin CHF 11 S (or it's replacement).

Have you done this procedure before, Loren? If so, how long does it take? My PS actuator is failing everytime i hit 75 or hit the button now. The wing lifts crooked. I was wondering if you'd be willing to take on doing this job on my car? I'd pay of course and drive the car to you. Could you let me know?

Thanks!
Jon

[Loren]

No, I have not personally done this job.
Those instructions are from the Porsche Service manual so they should be spot on.

[TunaRollZ]

Loren, on Jun 13 2008, 06:01 PM, said:

No, I have not personally done this job.
Those instructions are from the Porsche Service manual so they should be spot on.

thanks Loren. I guess I'd still need to buy at least one new actuator before i could do this procedure...
I gotta think if it's really worth the money and effort to get this working normally again. I love the stock turbo wing, but do I love it that much???

lol.

[Richard Hamilton]

I'm a bit confused by the instructions in the manual for bleeding the system. The instructions in step 2 tell you to slowly tighten the banjo bolt, butt the illustration shows it being turned counter-clockwise. Are the banjo bolts left-hand thread?

[GreggT]

Wow.....this is an old thread.....but I know it's ongoing problem for those still using the OE wing....so I'm pulling it from archives, rather than creating (yet another) spoiler-error thread.

Luckily I have somehow been able to avoid the problem till now......but she did stop working the other day.

Any advice would be welcome.....if I'm unable to easily rectify Iwill probably make the move to a fixed wing.

Micro switches test out OK.
No evidence of any fluid leak anywhere.
Right now the wing is not deploying at all.
The pump sounds like it is functioning when dash switch is engaged.....(click..rrr..click..rr..click..rr.....).
But when she sences that the wing has not made it up, I get the error.

Is bleeding off the system my next step?......if I have lost fluid & pressure I'm surprised I do not see a leak.

[gez]

Hi,

Richard H's previous post was on my behalf as I was having a problem with my spoiler and was about to try to bleed the system. My problem was different to the one you describe. My spoiler would go up fine but when it was coming down one side would stick. I had no leaks either.

I strip my rams and motor off the car and tinkered with it. I started to go down the route of bleeding it but as soon as I looked at topping up the ram it was obvious there was plenty of fluid in there. Basically I ended up lubing the ram as best I could with some CHF and good old WD40. It has been fine since!

It is quite easy to take it off the car - I could do it in 30mins now I reckon. Before shelling out for a fixed wing it is probably worth a Saturday morning to see if there is any life in it.

BTW - I used the battery of my motorcycle when I was playing with it off the car. It needs something that can dish out quite a few amps to get the pump working.

[GreggT]

I have it all apart right now......& I have had it apart several times recently when I added 2nd intake scoop and CF air box.
Just didn't seem to make alot of sence to start the bleed process when there's no evidence of leakage...so thought I'd throw it out for other ideas.

Seems likely that something's up with the hydralic pump since neither ram comes to life....(though the pump sounds like it's wkg hard).

[gez]

Well, it sounds like you have nothing to loose by checking to see if there is fluid in there [maybe all the recent removals has done something?] .I'd start by check the rams. Also, a new pump must be much cheaper than a fixed wing!!!!

[Loren]

gez, on Mar 2 2009, 01:08 PM, said:

Well, it sounds like you have nothing to loose by checking to see if there is fluid in there [maybe all the recent removals has done something?] .I'd start by check the rams. Also, a new pump must be much cheaper than a fixed wing!!!!

The pump is over $800 MSRP and if you need to two hydraulic rams - they are over $400 each -- So, I guess that would depend on the fixed wing you buy.

[ebaker]

Loren, are there instructions for adding oil ? My spoiler moves but gives the error message every time it extends. One hydraulic ram has a film of oil on the shaft.

[Loren]

[ebaker]

thanks

[ebaker]

I've read these instructions several times and they don't make sense. I think where they say to TIGHTEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves, it should be translated to LOOSEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves. It seems that you would have to loosen the fittings to bleed out the air bubbles. (???)

This post has been edited by ebaker: March 11, 2010 - 09:12 PM

[mwalgren]

Has anyone repaired a RAM? My drivers side is showing signs of leaking and now the wing doesn't go up level. I could bleed it but it will just leak out again. Seems like a few o-rings might make it as good as new. New ones appear expensive and getting one from a recycler might end up with the same problem shortly.

BTW, i was having a lot of spoiler errors lights but everything was working. I took the switches off and sprayed on some contact cleaner while exercising them for a bit and I haven't had an error since.

Thanks in advance.

Mike
01 996TT

[ONEDAYPAY]

hey,

i am getting into the conversation a little late....sorry but i have two leaky rams and i would like to rebuild but from what i am reading i am not too sure on the approach. can someone confirm the best way too fix. i am getting codes on the down but not going up all the way anymore.

thanks

[jpflip]

I've been following this problem here and on 6speed and nobody was able to replace the seals because they cannot purchase them separately and they are unique. (I never dismantle one myself) Some people on 6speed used thicker oil to fix their leaks...Did it last ? We don't know. I saw one thread on 6speed were the guy completely dismantle both rams and pump to found out that he was not able to replace any internal parts... So far the only solution, if your keeping the movable spoiler, keep an eye on Ebay for a used mechanism. There was one, a couple of months ago, who went for less than $200.00. Having two complete system help to build a good one... If you got any success in your attempt to fix the problem please do not hesitate to share your findings. Thanks, J.P.

This post has been edited by jpflip: April 05, 2010 - 02:25 PM

[pyiu]

here is my problem I went from a stock wing to a gt2 replica wing then back to my stock wing on my 2002 Turbo, now the fan works, the 3rd brake light works, the trunk switch works, but when I drive over 75 mph/hit the manual up and down button my wing is still down.

do i have to reset something on the car?

oh yeah the fault light is not on.

LMK
Thanks,
Phil

[Loren]

Did you change the electric harness back to the original one?

[jas1no]

where can i buy a repair set with new sealing and o-rings if the wing is leaking?