[BobM]

I'm replacing the CDR23 unit in my 04GT3 with a Becker Traffic Pro and it hasn't worked out quite as easy as I'd hoped.

I've got it installed and working OK, but the wiring for the old and new units doesn't match, and my main problem is getting a switched positive to the unit. Someone's mention CAN-BUS as an explanation but it means little to a simple soul like me. The unit switches on and off fine, but obviously not with the ignition. A side effect seems to be that when I turn the ignition on the heater control unit doesn't come on till I switch the head unit on. However if I turn the radio off the heater control unit stays on ...

I thought it'd be easy enough to find a switched positive somewhere near, but I can't, so I've run a wire over to the fuse box. Can anyone advise me the best place to connect this or if I'm missing some simpler solution?

[Loren]

Did you look at the Traffic Pro manual, installation instructions and the connector diagram here?

[BobM]

Hi Loren,

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I had looked at that, but so far as I can see it only describes making up connections for the speedo signal and the reverse signal - both of those are already correctly wired in the loom ISO connector on my car. My loom connector lacks a wire for Pin A7 (switched positive) on the diagram on page 5.

[Loren]

On the CDR23 the power comes in on A4. If you can't move this then you may have to take power from the phone prep connector.

CDR-23 - A connector

[BobM]

Loren, on Jan 31 2005, 09:57 PM, said:

On the CDR23 the power comes in on A4. If you can't move this then you may have to take power from the phone prep connector.

Not sure whether you've misunderstood Loren - I've got power to the unit on A4 but my loom has no switched positive, so although I can switch it on and off manually it won't come on with the ignition. Also as I said in my first post when I turn the ignition on the heater/climate control unit doesn't come on till I turn the radio on.

Methinks Porsche have started doing something a bit too clever in their wiring/logic systems.

[Loren]

I'm looking at the schematic (MY04 GT3) and I don't see anything different (power wise) than they have done in the past. A4 (red/black wire) should go to Fuse D8 (unswitched power) which is radio only.
The Traffic Pro should have a switched power on A7 - you can get that from the phone prep connector (green/black wire as I recall).

If the radio/Traffic Pro is on when the ignition is turned off then it should come on when the ignition is on again. Also, with the ignition off you should be able to press the on button on the radio/Traffic Pro and it should play for 1 hour (or until turned off).

Something is definitely wrong with the wiring if the heater doesn't come on until you turn the radio on - they should be seperate circuits.

BTW... where are you located?

[BobM]

Loren, on Feb 1 2005, 12:28 AM, said:

I'm looking at the schematic (MY04 GT3) and I don't see anything different (power wise) than they have done in the past. A4 (red/black wire) should go to Fuse D8 (unswitched power) which is radio only.
The Traffic Pro should have a switched power on A7 - you can get that from the phone prep connector (green/black wire as I recall).

I can't find this. Where should it be? Certainly there are no other connectors on the same part of the loom.

Loren, on Feb 1 2005, 12:28 AM, said:

If the radio/Traffic Pro is on when the ignition is turned off then it should come on when the ignition is on again. Also, with the ignition off you should be able to press the on button on the radio/Traffic Pro and it should play for 1 hour (or until turned off).

Yes, that's how the CDR23 worked, but what I'm saying is that the switching on and off of the CDR23 doesn't seem to have been via a simple switched positive.

Loren, on Feb 1 2005, 12:28 AM, said:

Something is definitely wrong with the wiring if the heater doesn't come on until you turn the radio on - they should be seperate circuits.

I know that, that's why I'm in here

Loren, on Feb 1 2005, 12:28 AM, said:

BTW... where are you located?

UK. My car was (I think) delivered around August 04, so I suppose it could be an 05, but I'm pretty sure the dealer said it was an 04 - he checked from the VIN when I asked about the service intervals.

[Tool Pants]

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...941&#entry13941 KarlS with a 2004 GT3 had the same issue.

A 2003/4 does not have a conventional ignition switch line like the earlier cars.

[captain chaos]

Hi Bob,
Did you manage to get this sorted? As you know I was the one who organised the bulk buy and i was looking to fit mine soon. my GT3 is a 2003 and I'll probably encounter the same issues.

Gary

[BobM]

Tool Pants, on Feb 1 2005, 08:32 AM, said:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...941&#entry13941  KarlS with a 2004 GT3 had the same issue.

A 2003/4 does not have a conventional ignition line like the earlier cars.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Great, thanks for that, there was a wire there whose function I couldn't identify, sounds like disconnecting that should solve the heater issue.

then I just need to work out the best way of getting a switched 12v to the unit ...

I thought I had it cracked over the weekend as it looked like one of the wires was a switched 12v but then every time I drove the car it switched the unit off and on again ... that was the speedo signal wire!

[BobM]

BobM, on Jan 31 2005, 07:26 PM, said:

I thought it'd be easy enough to find a switched positive somewhere near, but I can't, so I've run a wire over to the fuse box. Can anyone advise me the best place to connect this or if I'm missing some simpler solution?
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sorry to nag guys, but anyone help me out with getting a switched positve feed from the fusebox/relay board? Hoping to get it sorted this weekend. I had a quick look but couldn't work out how to get the fuse board off to get at the back, also would appreciate suggestions as to which terminal to take my feed from.

[Tool Pants]

On a US car we have an unused cell pone connector below the radio which has switched and constant power. That is what I suggested Karl use. UK cars do not have this connector.

You can get a volt meter and test wires in the radio area to see what is switched. The other thing, on UK cars, sometimes they are switched and sometimes they are live all the time. In the US the lighter is live all the time.

Or, you can try something like this. http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...6-23E723CB9E4A}

[clord]

On two USA 996's, I've gotten switched battery from the prewired cell phone preparation plug near the floor in the center console. If I remember correctly, there is an unused 4 wire female plug available when you remove either side of the center console. Again, if I remember correctly, the switched battery is the green wire with the brown stripe. Confirm it with a meter.

[BobM]

Tool Pants, on Feb 4 2005, 06:55 PM, said:

You can get a volt meter and test wires in the radio area to see what is switched.  The other thing, on UK cars, sometimes they are switched and sometimes they are live all the time.  In the US the lighter is live all the time.

This is one of the first things I tried - there doesn't seem to be anything under the dash with a switched feed. The lighter socket is permanently on (an I'd prefer to leave it that way fro a trickle charger if poss). The only switches in the area are the central locking switch and rear screen demist, and neither have a switched 12v feed.

At the moment I have run a wire across under the dash which is taped up just above the fuse box waiting for me to work out where/how to connect it.

[BobM]

clord, on Feb 4 2005, 06:58 PM, said:

On two USA 996's, I've gotten switched battery from the prewired cell phone preparation plug near the floor in the center console.  If I remember correctly, there is an unused 4 wire female plug available when you remove either side of the center console.  Again, if I remember correctly, the switched battery is the green wire with the brown stripe.  Confirm it with a meter.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Craig, maybe it's worth me grubbing around in the centre console to see if there's anything in there I can use.

[Loren]

There is no switched power on the original radio connections. Try D9 on the climate control - it should be a black/blue wire.

[BobM]

Loren, on Feb 4 2005, 07:38 PM, said:

There is no switched power on the original radio connections. Try D9 on the climate control - it should be a black/blue wire.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks again Loren, now got it sorted.

As Karl says in the other thread there's a wire from the radio loom which disables the climate control unit. Cutting the wire to pin A5 on the TrafficPro solved that.

I then took a switched feed from the blue/black wire on the larger adaptor plugged into the climate control.

All sorted now. Great all in one solution - radio, CD, satnav, bluetooth handsfree and plays MP3s from a compact flash card.

[captain chaos]

Bob,
YHM...

Where did you put the mic? and where did you end up locating the GPS antenna?

Gary

[captain chaos]

Hi all,
OK, I'm not an automotive electrician, infact I hate it!

My Becker unit has a constant live feed so it does not turn off and on via the ignition. I also have the problems with the aircon.
I understand Bob's comments about taking a live feed from the heater unit but in practical terms how do you do it?
All the wires are bound by some black felt and I want to get it right and not do a botch job.
Thanks
Gary

This post has been edited by captain chaos: February 13, 2005 - 07:30 AM

[BobM]

captain chaos, on Feb 13 2005, 01:23 PM, said:

OK, I'm not an automotive electrician, infact I hate it!

My Becker unit has a constant live feed so it does not turn off and on via the ignition. I also have the problems with the aircon.
I understand Bob's comments about taking a live feed from the heater unit but in practical terms how do you do it?
All the wires are bound by some black felt and I want to get it right and not do a botch job.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Gary,

I'm no electrician either, humble doctor by trade

I posted a few words and some pics about my install here which may help.

I stripped back the cloth tape on the heater subloom for a few inches, identified the blue/black wire and double checked it was a switched positive. I then stripped the insulation off it and soldered a foot long piece of wire onto it, then an insulated female blade connector on the end of that. Reinsulated the wire then retaped the bundle so all looks nice and neat.

If you get a suitable adapter harness for the head unit (A vauxhall one here in the UK is fine) you don't have to butcher the Porsche loom at all apart from soldering in the wire above. You could use one of those Scotchlok connectors but I hate them!