lewisweller1982

In my continuous search to rectify my stutter and splutter running problems at around 2k 3k and 4k RPMs under loads varying in any gear, I also had issues with this fitting. it is a push fit connector which is rubbish, I removed the intake pipe plugged the connector in firmly and then used black PVC tape to wrap it tightly. it doesn't look professional but it doesn't leak and doesn't pop off now. unfortunately no change to the stutter splutter. Your over boost could be a faulty boost pressure control solenoid item 29 on the diagram in the link below or piping to or from it or associated components. Most other faults result in low boost pressure and running issues. You sure you not tuned or previous owner tuned? Ie REVO stage 1 running 1.1 bar boost and hence will pop a code unless the tune is done well??? http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/cayenne_turbo_s_(9pa)/v8-4.5l_turbo/powertrain_management/fuel_delivery_and_air_induction/turbocharger/overboost_valve/component_information/locations/charge_measurement_and_fuel_supply_additional_components_turbo/page_3845/

ekstroemtj The pipe is available at my local Hydraulic/Pneumatic supplier for like $3, it was 6mm OD and 1-2mm thickness so 4-5mm ID. Polypropylene I think, but don't quote me. I used heat shrink tubing to sheath the pipe where it touches or runs near the engine so like the whole length really, I reused the clips that I popped of the old pipe. To gain access remove the Secondary Air Pump and the coil packs silver colour plastic cover T30 torxs and then unplug all 4 injectors, then slid the change over valve at the rear of the engine of it little bracket. this allows you to unclip the clamp and disconnect the pipe. the other end is connected to the Nylon "T". If you get that far then replacement is straight forward reversal.

BIGBUZUKI The voltage at idle is 13.8-13.9 when the AC is on it drops to 13.1-13.2 and at that voltage the warning "check tail light" will appear every time. AC off and no other electrical loads and it wont trigger the warning. So is my alternator really that bad or is my CCM overly sensitive to a lower voltage and thus triggers or possibly im not getting all that voltage through the CCM maybe so the drop is more significant ? I cleaned the earth at the rear right of the boot where the CD changer and AIR suspension control module is located, it was not corroded and not loose. I also removed the main earth strap from battery where it bolts to chassis just in front of the drivers seat. again not corroded and made no difference except the car runs like a total turd now, so another 500km of DME "learning" required. it was almost getting better RE my stutters and splutters at around 1800-2500 and 3000 and 4000rpm. Will this nightmare ever end lol drama

Update, just cleaned MAF sensors (they weren't dirty) and not a lot changed if anything at all. Back to the drawing board for me. out of interest anyone know of running issues caused by low or lower than normal charging system voltage, I am working on a theory that my "Check tail light" warning (I have a Porsche dealership 2008 facelift which includes LED combination tail and brake lights) is related to voltage as I've checked everything 100 times and they work fine unless my foot is on the brake then I open a window or increase the fan ac speed then boom the warning pops up. Strange.... penny for your thoughts Sir.

Hello I've got a CTT 06 112,000km (with E81 power kit from factory) and had a load of issues since I bought it. So far I've had Head Gaskets/water pump done at a German car specialist useless bunch I might add, I've done new plug/coil packs & air filters, Purge valve replaced, throttle body cleaned, various PCV and leaking vacuum pipes from Change over valve to Diverter Valves fixed (replaced one dv as well and check the other ok), found Secondary air Injection pump full of soot because the check valve from exhaust is stuck open, you hear a thumping pulsing sound if the check valve is leaking back hot exhaust gases (blocked the pipe off as hot climate don't use the SAI anyway) and done a load of maintenance jobs. From my Automotive Degree background and unlucky streak I've done a load of research and still I have some lumpy misfiring acceleration up to 4000- 4500rpm then it flies in any gear. So I am also left with the prognosis that maybe my MAF sensor(s) may need a clean. no fault codes and boost is great 0.8+ bar, idle is smooth as well. So I've ruled out fuel pumps, filter and injectors (always use 98-99 super), ruled out boost/vacuum/PVC leaks, ruled out DME "programming as with PSM off it is a little better but doesn't fix the issue like many with "hesitation problems" have reported, so back to the MAF sensor for me. Back to your post the MAF sensor would need 15 mins at idle and some driving WOT to relearn and calibrate itself, plus you switched the octane back to 98-99, taking this into consideration it may be making sense the issues went away after 100 mile was clocked up. Do post back if the issues return, us CTT guys need all the collective help and shared knowledge we can muster. :)

Thanks guy for the post replies. I've just had the dreaded "Four wheel drive system faulty" warning come up which I've read is the Servo on the Transfer case electronic issue when the transfer case is hot. I'm in Dubai so 42oC is hitting now daily. I had a spare litre of Toyota Type IV ATF so i thought a quick drain of the TC to check for metal parts and see what Quantity the garage put in would maybe help me diagnose the warning message better. I drained 1 litre exactly out of the TC and spotless clean no metal or burnt fluid signs. I noticed above the TC on the Transmission tunnel was a coating of sticky emulsified oil gunk which looks like ATF and not engine or Gear diff oil. Anyone got any idea why or where that is coming from? no oil patches in parking bay, no drips, looks like the breather of the Transmission or TC is spewing it up there maybe? Where do those TC and Transmission breather pipes go? Anyway refilled the TC with Toyota Type IV ATF 0.75litres but the transfer case whined when revving the engine in Park. I added the remaining to make 1 litre and no noise. strange that everywhere I read is 0.75 litres though. I also have a high pitches noise at 120km/h on load throttle whi9ch disappear as soon as your off the accelerator, research shows this is the Front Diff bearing, so I replaced the Ravenol 75-90 for Moly lube Slip 75-90 GL5 gear oil, this didn't make much difference and the drained fluid didn't have any metal in it. So i'm thinking to turn the radio up louder because ignorance is cheaper than fixing it. LOL When I get depressed with this PIG I use my Stage 1+ REVO tuned Audi A4 B8.5 3.0T Its my baby DD.

BINGO SOLVED IT> I'm back and after a lot of head scratching and no fault codes PIWIS or Durametrics and no help from the "German car specialist garage" who said it was normal to have a Cayenne turbo drive like a total pig I found the answer!!! The car would hesitate and felt sluggish at low rpm, and when you accelerated and let off the braking was terrible (when I slipped to neutral the braking was good so not a brake vacuum servo leak), the engine is fighting the brakes which in fact got me thinking on the correct thought pattern to find the problem. The only reason the engine would fight the car is if the boost built up wasn't able to divert around the turbo, the Diverter valve obviously does this function and after some reading up the Bosch ones can be suspect. so I took the plunge and bought two new from Porsche Bosch 710 P revision. Whilst fixing the steering rack leak I whipped off the passenger wheel arch cover and swapped the DV, but when I checked it was already 710 P revision and actually did function when test manually, so I then started to think about the vacuum piping to the DV. I blow down the vacuum pipe and heard a leak in fact 3!! the vacuum pipe to the driver side was melted and leaking at the nylon "T" located under the Throttle Body inlet area, chopped that bit off and reconnected, tried again and still could hear leaking, traced it the rigid vacuum pipe which runs along the left bank injectors area to the Change over valve. As you can see from the pictures its melted in two places. What throw me off is I didn't understand the function of the DV and the Change over valve exactly, yes the DV will open when throttle closes to prevent turbo stall and surging which damaged the turbo and gives turbo "lag", but also the change over valve is boost pressure when accelerating and vacuum when off throttle. Most technical data I read didn't disclose this detail. So my understanding now is: On throttle the changeover valve is positive pressure open to the DV to assist in holding the boost preventing the DV brass spring from compressing then lift off the change over valve will switch to crankcase vacuum to pull the DV open to by pass. This explained why my CTT would have crap low rpm acceleration and boost with hesitation and kangaroo de-acceleration and engine fighting the brakes to stop as the boost had nowhere to escape to. Maybe someone can explain this sequence more accurately or correct me on this info, I would welcome it.

Some pictures for anyone that was interested............

Spawny I feel your pain. I got a ctt just done Head gasket done and full rebuild and still runs rough at part throttle load, no CEL no DTC, garage gave me it back and I just drive for a few km before giving it back to them to fix properly. Nightmare costing me a fortune. sorry I cant be of much help, the 4k limiter set is defo the DME limiting rpm because sensor parameters are not in spec, stretched chains seems to be correct if both bank have issues and the sensor wave form and signal is plausible. Post what you find fixes this as its good for other despite the pain for you :(

Hi Guys, back again for more punishment.......... Quick info and background 2006 CTT with E81 power kit from new, 111,000KM, just had head gasket failure and full strip down and repair with a load of new parts, all the plugs, Coils, filters, oils coolant thermostat, temp sensor, purge valve, vent pipes, etc etc all replaced. Got the car back and its still runs like a bag of Sh*t. Idle is good rests at 500rpm approx. and stable, with wide open throttle high rpm and it goes pretty good, but part throttle low rpm is dog rough lumpy, sluggish and pants, is this normal for the V8 TT? Surely not! No fault codes, I use 99 octane fuel, put some STP fuel injector cleaner though it a few tanks no change, compression test was good even before the heads were done and boost pressure reads 0.6-0.7 ish. No vac leaks or boost leaks I can detect. I did discover my Secondary air pump was clogged with soot hence the check valve was stuck open and basically has destroyed the SAI pump, so I blanked this off because its a cold start emission device for the cat only. Made no difference in the rough running though before or after, just the pulsing noise is gone as no exhaust leak effectively now. Is it possible the SAI pump impellor could clog the Cats?? Really running out of ideas. HELP ME PLEASE

After spending about 5,500 USD I have now have a CTT 2006 (with E81 power kit from new) that has new head gasket, new valve stem seals, machined and skimmed head and newly ground valve seats, new gaskets, temp sensor, thermostat, a load of new pipes fittings vac etc, new aux belt, tensioner, idler rollers, water pump and pulley, cleaned alternator full of oil and sh*t...................I think your getting the picture, total nightmare Also found transmission mount split add 3 new please .............ATF, transfer case and F&R diff oils all changed, new plugs and Ignition coils, new battery, home repaired Kessy unit and rear lights. Few; I need a holiday but im skint....... So when I get the car back tomorrow or Friday, I hope its running like a dream or I might torch the thing!!

Just to add my two cents to this "HOT" post, I just had my CTT 2006 (w/o locking diff) F&R diffs oil changed using Ravenol 75w/90 and for the Transmission and Transfer case use Toyota type IV ATF. wish me luck...................

Thanks for the reply. Yes this is the next stage of diagnostic tomorrow at the garage. Are the forums usual this quiet? Or is this a time difference case for many users?

Hi all I am new to the forum. Apologies for any mistakes............ I recently bought a 2006 CTT with 110,000km (with Porsche optional "power pack" DME tuned to 500bhp), the rough running I originally put down to lack of serving for ignition items etc, so went ahead and did the full works, air filters, oil and filter mobile1 0w-40, coil packs and plugs (Beru), and new Purge Valve (only fault code that came up) all using original Porsche parts. The issue I have is overheating at idle and poor running, (at idle is fine) but revving and driving produces stuttering/hesitation until over 4,000 rpm and then it flies with clean acceleration. If I leave the car at idle it will gradually begin to over heat, if I rev a little it will cool back to 80oC, I have replaced the expansion cap and water pump (old pump wasn't unserviceable so I knew the end to this wasn't close yet), belt and tension and pulley all ok no slippage at idle , thought about that already). Observations: 1. Coolant I am topping up daily with no visable leaks, I did have it vacuum bled and filled, but still the front and rear heaters are cold at idle but hot when revving to 1500rpm and above (sloshing water can be heard in the pipes that run to front and rear AC heater units because it has 4 zone climate control option). 2. no oil and water contamination either way 3. coolant DOES smell suspiciously like hydrocarbons! 4. Fans cut in and out as required all ok 5. PWIS diagnostic show no fault codes or misfires, and didn't overheat during testing unfortunately 6. Thermostat opens and top hose is hot when expected and during driving it will rest at bang middle on 80oC as expected. 7. A strange pulsing noise is audible on the left bank at the rear bulk head area which could be a whole list of things I know (exhaust leak, vacuum pipe leak, SAI leak, HEAD GASKET BLOWN and I am hearing the detonation of water turning into gas exploding! YES I am already think the worst that is the head gasket blown. Any body have some input or experience of the same issues please jump in. Next step is a coolant test for hydrocarbon/ CO2 at garage tomorrow as I don't have the tester myself.