td873

I connected to D13 on the DME for TPS. There are actually 6 different cables including: D12 - Ground Pedal Value Sensor 2 [Green/Red] D13 - Signal Pedal Value Sensor 2 [Green/White] D14 - +5 Pedal Value Sensor 2 [Green/Black] D7 - Ground Pedal Value Sensor 1 [Green/Grey] D8 - Signal Pedal Value Sensor 1 [Green/Yellow] D9 - +5 Pedal Value Sensor 1 [Green/Violet] For some reason, my data logger shows actual values from 7.966v to 8.258v, rather than something in the 5V range. Does this sound right for throttle position voltage on pin D13? -td

I just stumbled on this thread, so I am going to reply, although a little late ;) I suggest folks read this themselves: it is HIGHLY biased towards cross-drilling. AND it does not account for slotted or dimpled rotors or other engineered solid rotors. ONY completely solid ones (see the picture on page 24) and p.23 where they admit they didn't even look at slotted or dimpled rotors). It is unclear what types of venting/vaning the solid rotors they used have - if any! Because of these fundamental issues, it is easy to find snippits favorable to cross-drilled rotors in the article - but only as they are compared to generic solid rotors. Again, ONLY completely solid rotors, and not race rotors with slots / dimples / vanes / vents, etc. [Note that there is plenty of discussion about the vaned design of the x-drilled - but almost no discussion on the type or design of the solid rotor. Clearly a Brembo (or other) solid rotor will operate better than less "engineered" models.] Despite the fact that they used junk solid rotors, there were still a number of points favorable to the non-crossdrilled rotors they tested! High Performance Wear Test - conclusion: higher apparent friction levels for non-crossdrilled rotor during the 450 deg C wear test. High Speed Abuse Test - brake system 3b had higher brake system output with smaller diameter, non crossdrilled rotors than system 3a with the larger diameter crossdrilled rotors. Life - adding crossdrilling to the rotor design "reduces its fatigue life." This will occur at a lower number of heat cycles than ... a solid rotor. [i.e., cross drilled rotors die faster] [There are others, but these are kinda neat] Also, keep in mind that their test does not accurately represent real world use. For example, the tests were not dramatically affected by pad build up in the holes. This will severely change the results, since the ENTIRE premise of the article is that the holes help. In fact - they indicate that OVER 90% of the hole will clog under use! [brake system 1, full. Brake system 2, 90%.] They also state that this can have really bad results. [This also illustrates that new pad technology does NOT need the holes for venting gas.] I also direct your attention to one of the most important conclusions - design affects performance. System 1 and 2 showed better performance with x-drilled, but system 3 showed better performancewith solid. But, what would happen with a properly designed rotor? The closing statements of this article details the many negative affects of using cross drilled rotors. But I want to emphasize that the data presented is only a few data points regarding completely solid vs crossdrilled rotors. NOT crossdrilled vs track/slotted/dimpled/etc rotors. Also, please refer to the more recent technical articles on the SAE site. There is a great one on Race Braking Technology (ca 2008). That one states you can improve brake cooling "through rotor design, cooling ducts ... and in some cases rotor crossdrilling can improve cooilng, but at the expense of lining wear rates" (not "in all cases"). This paper also talks in depth about brake fade. There are a few other papers out there, but I have not read any more relevant that I can remember. -td

Roger, thanks. BTW, it only leaked when the car was on a negative incline (front about 10 degrees higher than rear). I'll put some water in the fluid reservoir today and see if it leaks. I'll post findings for the next lucky winner ;) -td

I stopped the car and noticed about a cup of fluid leaking from behind the front driver's side fender well. It actually was dribbling out from the front of my side skirt. It looked and smelled like coolant, but I'm not 100% certain it was coolant - more like 90%. Also, the coolant tank is still on max. I've driven almost 100 miles since I saw the puddle, but haven't seen any other leaks. Any thoughts on this? -td

How long has this been happening? And when was the last time you filled up with gas? -td

The original quote related to the 996. When I look at the PET, there is a sub-connection somewhere between the engine bay and the battery (number 18 in the picture attached). In any event, I have well under 13 volts after startup (idling) with nothing running (12.5v). With the lights on I have about 12.25. If I have the lights and AC on, I am around 12.1, but sometimes drops below 12 (11.9v). When I turn things on and off, I can get a voltage "spike" up to 13v, but only for a few seconds, then it drops back down to 12.5-12.6. This is checked using durametric realtime monitoring. I know it sounds like the alternator, but when I had this one installed, it seemed to charge properly for about a month, but now it's back to FUBAR. -td

My new alternator is still charging low. It's going in for a checkup next week, but I figured I'd spend a few minutes with some DIY diagnosis. I checked a few easy to reach electrical junctions, and cleaned the various connection spots, but one has eluded me. In the post below, someone mentioned a junction in the trans tunnel. Does anyone have a pic of where this is? -td

IMO, you should have a separate set of track rims. This will do a number of things: Preserve the life of your street tires (won't kill them on the track) Preserve the life of your track tires (won't waste them by driving on the highway). Preserve the looks of your street wheels (they'll get beatup a bit on the track). Improve handling on the track if you use a better tire (vs using a street tire). Save money on street tires (allowing you to purchase cheaper tire that are street only) Allow you to experiment more with track tires when you move to R-comps or slicks. Cost less in the long run. Keep in mind that your alignment may influence what type of street tire you get. I have a bit of negative camber, so I chose a fairly high treadwear street tire. Also, you should not run street tires on the front with track tires on the rear. Your car will understeer like crazy. You really need similar compounds all the way around. -td

I do not have any vibration noise. Also, FWIW, these shims will not work with Pagid pads, and I assume PFC either. -td

I did a search, but didn't turn up anything - so I'm posting a new thread (and question). Part I: I have been running pagid yellows for a while, but they tend to become worthless below 1/3 of a pad. This weekend, I had one front pad chunk horrbily - to the point that it was losing material under braking so fast that the pad was eaten away to the backing plate. It was so bad that under braking it caused the car to turn. Keep in mind that this was just 1 pad on the front driver's side (the outer pad), the inner pad still had more than 1/3 remaining - although it was chunking, it was not disintegrating. On the passenger side and in the rear, both pads were still more than 1/3. Part II: So I upgraded to PFC-01 in the front. However, now I have a clicking noise when I tap the brake. My guess is that when there is no pressure in the line, the pads back off the rotor just a bit, and when you tap the brakes they are pushed onto the rotor causing the clicking noise I hear. Has anyone experienced this? -td

Awesome. Good luck with the upgrade and please keep a log or at least post some updates. The P world would be greatful for details along the way! As for the engine, you might get more for it if you can document that it is working, provide repair/maintenance history, and have it removed by a reputable shop. Selling it sight unseen from a stranger with no additional probably won't fetch much. I think the 3.4 would be a nice upgrade for an early boxster ;) -td

The power steering fluid in my 3.4L 996 sometimes overheats resulting in some spewing out the air purge value. The purge valve "cap" isn't secured very tight, and the pressure pushes it up, or sometimes off completely. Any thoughts on the reason for this? [do the power steering lines need to be insulated/isolated?] Any thoughts on how to fix/rig this? I've been adhering to the "put some more in" school for now. But I'd like to identify if there is a problem and how it can be fixed. FWIW, this is a crate 3.4 engine installed this year, now with around 8,000 miles on it. -td

thanks again. i think you pointed in the right direction. this weekend i will see if there is excessive resistance on one of the camber camber plates causing the spring to bind while turning. I have some noise and it appears to be coming from the drop links I used with the GT3 sway bars. My noise is more of a rattle than a clunk. Happens when the car is traveling straight. When there is any load on the sways (and the drop links) there is no rattle. -td

I was rear ended on Thursday. Below are some pics of the damage. Is there any "hidden" areas I should pay particular attention to? Or damage that I should might not be apparent? What are the chances of having frame / engine / exhaust damage? Thanks, Tom

I was rear ended on the right side. I'm going to need (at least) a new bumper and tail light assembly. The old assembly was completely broken and all the plastic parts holding it in are also broken. 2 parter: 1) I found the part number for the light assembly, but couldn't figure out what the part numbers are for the connectors. (The plastic parts that mount to the frame and also the parts that mount near the engine compartment. 996-631-496-00-M100 2) What connectors behind the bumper will I need? There are some plastic pieces I could see behind the bumper (near the heat shield) that looked broken as well. Thanks, Tom