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Moose

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  • From
    Iowa
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 BMW 323i
    2001 Boxster 5sp
    1987 Porsche 928S4 red/black interior
  • Future cars
    No plans
  • Former cars
    81 5sp Porsche 928 "moosgrunmetallic"

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  1. Moose
    Advisable before the fact but not on point or helpful after the fact. :rolleyes:
  2. Moose
    Loren, now that he knows what needs to be done, it's a matter of doing and documenting it. The question is what he will need down the road to dispute the denial of a warranty claim if he's missed something and a preventable, catastrophic error has occurred. If the dealer did the inspection and missed it, you have one "enemy," so to speak. If he does it himself or has an indy shop do the maintenance, there will invariably be questions about whether the failure occurred somewhere other than the dealership. Interesting. The intervals have changed.
  3. Moose
    It's not clear to me that (1) there is a 30K service interval. See: http://www.porsche.com/filestore.aspx/defa...iletype=default Although service intervals have increased, I'm not sure they have increased from 2004 to 2008. Perhaps they have significantly. In any case, if you have a 30K service interval, it's not clear you *must* use the dealer to conduct the service required at 30K miles. To your question, service intervals and the recommended checks and maintenance are also located: http://www.porsche.com/filestore.aspx/defa...iletype=default good luck
  4. Moose
    Same issue last year. Turned out to be the front trunk light. I removed the bulb. I also had a bad voltage regulator and had left my radar detector in the cigarette lighter all week, which raised the issue more prominently. After two fried batteries and a new voltage regulator, I just left the front trunk bulb out. Although an inelegant solution, I generally disconnect the negative lead to the battery, located in the front trunk right in the center toward the windshield, if I'm leaving the car off for a few days. That may very well mask a battery drain but so be it. :drive:
  5. Moose
    Update: I've had the alternator bench tested and it is fine. The electrician said that it was obvious there was a loose connector at the rear of the alternator/volt regulator because there were signs of it rubbing on the back of the alt and, incidentally, beginning to melt some of the plastic. He took the back off, cleaned the connectors, reassembled it and gave me a second nut to separate the connector from the back of the voltage regulator so as not to melt the plastic and to hold/tighten the bolt into the assembly. He said I should clean the connector that attaches to the alt as it was probably dull or had bits of plastic melted to it and that could affect the system negatively (no pun intended). It's hard to describe in words, but it made sense and it looks like that was the problem. I will update the list with my findings once reassembled on the car. My question remains, however, if I can put this baby back on the car without removing that coolant plate/bracket to which it attaches and draining the cooling system. Thoughts? David Cmelik 87 928S 4 auto "indischrot" 01 986 5 speed "seal grey metallic" 00 BMW 323i black on red
  6. Moose
    New last year. Frankly, I've replaced the battery more times than I'd like to admit, but twice it was actually a bad battery-- from Interstate both times. This time it was a NAPA battery and I went back to have them test it (hoping it was merely heat killing the battery within warranty). I'm dreading putting the alternator back in (regardless of whether it needs to be replaced) because the last two times I've been in there, I've had to remove the coolant plate to which it attaches. Well, the first time I didn't replace the coolant plate gasket and then I had to go back in. Second query: is there truly anyway to fit the alternator to the block without removing this plate? 87 928S 4 auto "indischrot" 01 986 5 speed "seal grey metallic" 00 BMW 323i black on red
  7. Moose
    Last year, I replaced my voltage regulator that was attached to the alternator in my 01 986 5-speed with success-- until today. The bat light came on again and I checked the two top side ground straps of which I know (bat box and passenger side in engine compartment visible from above the engine). Yesterday, I had NAPA check the battery with the engine off. Good battery. Needs recharge. Then they had me start the car, rev the engine slightly, and turn on the lights with a multimeter-like machine attached to the battery posts. Their diagnosis is "not enough voltage from alternator"-- however, "no diode ripple detected" from before is not the problem as was the case previously! They suggested I left a plug or wire loose when I reattached the voltage regulator and that the best option was to pull the alternator and have it bench tested to make sure it didn't need to be replaced and then, if not, to shore up the connections and make sure they are tight and also make sure the serp belt is properly tensioned. Any other thoughts? Will bench test alternator at shop this week. :renntech:
  8. Moose
    In October 2005, I removed a coolant line cover (996 101 021 01) that also fastens the bolt (996 101 021 01) for the alternator. See illustration 101-05 in Boxster shop manual. I did this to make it easier to shove the alternator into position on top of the block but under the intake "ribcage." Wrongly, I did *not* replace the gasket (996 101 331 50) and I believe that is now why I am now leaking coolant onto the plastic undercarriage panel. By the way, a word to the wise from the unwise: this appears to be a less-than-$5.00 part that could have been replaced the first time. :eek: My questions are these: 1. Do I use any kind of form-a-gasket material to seal the gasket (996 101 331 50) when I replace it? 2. What is the torque value for 996 101 021 01? Moose 01 986 5 speed "seal grey metallic" US left-hand drive version 87 928 S4 auto "indischrot" US left-hand drive version
  9. Moose
    What is the part number for the hex-head coolant block plug on the 01 Boxster 5sp non-S US left hand drive? Is it 900 378 035 09 in illustration 101-05 on Porsche PET? Many thanks in advance. :) Moose
  10. Moose
    :thumbup: SUCCESS-- loose ground strap. GaryFB-- I called a Porsche dealer and told them my symptoms, e.g., got a partial turnover and then mostly clicky-clicky. The Porsche service manager said that the immobilizer is an interrupt in the starter circuit so should not have gotten anything if it was an immobilizer. He didn't think it was it, but it gave me great hope this afternoon and hope is a beautiful thing. Because then I went poking around in the engine compartment. And . . . The Box is alive. It does start. I haven't driven any distance to see if the alternator is charging. I will do that next after buttoning down everything. :lightbulb: The ground strap that was loose was the one that is on top of the engine compartment near the passenger side intake manifold. It was all my fault. :eek: In desperation during the alternator remount phase, I began loosening nuts and bolts on that side of the engine when I could not successfully remount the alt-- I instead contemplated removing the intake to get a better angle at it, but then had the better idea of removing the coolant line on the forward side of the engine block. Oh well, live and learn. Button down things and make sure all ground straps are secure. I have a feeling this saga is not quite over, however . . . Many thanks to all of you who replied. Feeling like a :king:
  11. Moose
    It's not happening anymore. But the oil light goes on. Interestingly enough. I went to NAPA and they told me the battery is fully charged as well and that I should be looking for a serious draw that robs the starter of power. This draw apparently became more egregious after I removed and refit the alternator after replacing the voltage regulator. Two shops have now told me the battery is fully charged. One had no interest in its sale. I attached a test light to the battery; I am pulling fuses to put out the test light attached to the negative/ground strap from the battery. But there are SO many things that draw on the battery when the car is shut off. The radio, the alarm, the instrument cluster, interior lights, etc. I know the recommended action is to "one by one" test each circuit by removing each fuse "one at a time," but this seems to me counterintuitive. How can you really see if there is a draw if you leave all of the normally operating circuits intact-- those which draw battery power when the car is off as a matter of course? Anyway, I appreciate the help, but it has been tough going over here. :wrench:
  12. Moose
    It isn't. It's actually the fourth battery in the car in four years. I have replaced three in one year. The car is off-lease. It had an Interstate gel battery in it built new May 04. It was a faulty battery replaced by Interstate in July 04. That also went bad. Adjudged defective by the grunt but the boss said it wasn't. So I left never to buy another Interstate battery. I bought a Napa, but by then my alternator went bad charging up defective batteries. Now, my third battery and the car's fourth seemed to be dead but apparently is fully charged and the car will not start. See my previous posts for alternator woes. Oh boy. :censored:
  13. Moose
    01 5sp non-S US. Realizing you can't diagnose electrical over the internet, what could cause the following symptoms: Battery light is on before I even put key in after hooking up battery after charging it. Turn key on, then off, then on. Battery light is gone. Click-click-click no starty when key moved to turn over starter. Charge battery for a few hours on 1.5 amp. Little better. About a quarter turn over. Starter seems to want to engage. Take battery to Sears. It's a fully charged battery. Cannot charge it anymore. Huh. Put it back in. Try to start it again. Same symptoms. :help:
  14. Moose
    Thanks, taking it to a shop tomorrow to get it charged. Then I'll test the alternator's ability to recharge once the car is running (hopefully). Leaf tour this weekend. Hopefully it will be working by then. Many thanks again.
  15. Moose
    I read in the archives it could take weeks to recharge a completely depleted battery using a mere maintainer. Looks like I will be taking my battery to Sears to have them charge it on a real charger. :(
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