heyjae

You mean like this? Sorry for the small image. It's a track car and I had to drill holes in the trunk. I don't like the lift in turn 8 at Willow Springs at 120 mph.

Try starting the engine from cold, warming up by going moderate speeds (30-35 mph or so) and keeping it under 3000 rpm. When the engine is warm, speed up to about 45-50 mph, keep it under 60 and under 3000 rpm, and drive for about 15 or 20 minutes with minimal stops. If it still doesn't work, then there is something wrong, but not bad enough to trigger a CEL. Not sure about where you are, but in CA, you can still pass with one of readiness lights not on assuming you pass the sniff test, etc.

I just installed a shorter Goodyear Gatorback belt as part of my underdrive pulley install. It doesn't seem much louder or quieter than stock. Of course my exhaust is so loud, that it might be masking the difference.

I would give it an hour mainly for gaining access to the belt and reinstalling the cover and carpet. Otherwise, it is a really easy.

My guess is that you'll pass just fine. I passed just fine with just my factory secondary cats. The primary cats/manifold were replaced with headers some time ago. In fact, the numbers this time around were better than 2 years ago when I first installed the headers. However, I just installed headers with 200 cell primary cats and got rid of my secondary cats with a bypass pipe (I did this because I wanted to get less restrictive sport cats and for my needs this was the most cost effective way of doing it). I recommend that you do the opposite of what you intended and install headers and relocate the o2 sensors rearward instead. You'll still get more sound, albeit a modest increase, but more power as well. The factory manifold is very restrictive. But if you want to go the secondary bypass route, I got the Fabspeed bypass which appears very well made, but it is expensive. I wasn't able to locate a cheaper one and didn't have time to look too deeply, although they must exist. Worst case, a muffler shop could probably make one pretty cheap, although it most likely wouldn't be mandrel bent. Tool Pants, Following up from our last exchange about readiness codes. Obviously I managed to get the readiness codes set and was able to do in one drive... well 7 out of 8 anyway, which is good enough to pass. I started the car and turned on the defrosters on max and let the car idle for 2 minutes after letting it cool overnight. Then I drove it at 30-35 mph for about 5-10 minutes with minimal stops, rpm below 3000 and the AC on. Then I sped up and drove for another 20-25 minutes at about 45 mph. Again with minimal stops, rpm below 3000 and the AC on. One by one the codes were set except for the secondary air injection. I'm guessing that one takes a couple starts with a cold engine to be set. The speed was actually dictated by the speed limits on my route, so it all may be a coincidence, but it seemed to be the right combination to quickly get the readiness codes set.

Porsche's inherently have a lot of noise and having the cables near the battery probably isn't the problem. I'm not familiar with the Pioneer AVIC D3, but you will need as high a voltage output from the source/radio to the amp as possible. Hopefully the radio is capable of outputting at least 4 volts. Then adjust the output. Start with the lowest sensitivity on the amp. Then set the volume of the Pioneer at about 80% maximum, then adjust the amp sensitivity upward until it is about as loud as you will listen to the stereo. Setting the radio output as high as possible masks the interference. I hope that helps.

I think it's to keep the transmission from pushing the engine into the passenger compartment if you get rear ended.

My 2000 S had the same problem. It would be difficult to get into 2nd gear and would occassionally pop out. Initially I thought it was carelessness, but realized that it was occurring even when I was being very consious about gear changes. My dealer replaced the transmission under warranty and it has not been a problem since.

It's funny that you mention disconnecting the battery. I think my saga started when I disconnected my battery. I installed a lightweight battery the weekend before the first failed smog check. I should have known better, but wasn't thinking. I actually failed both the sniff--HC was just above max--and readiness codes; I passed the sniff on the second test but tripped the CEL.

I'm in CA. Burbank to be more precise. There are a total of 8 readiness codes for the 2000 S. I have 6 of 8 ready. The issue now is that I thought I solved a CEL problem, but it's still intermittent (P1117). Everytime I get close to getting all the codes ready, the CEL comes on and I need to reset it. I am just over 60 days past due, but so far CHP hasn't hassled me, even when one followed behind me for 10 miles coming down Angeles Crest hwy. I failed at the first test only place I went to. Then passed at the second one, but the CEL came on DURING the test. This is after not having a CEL in years. Luckily, the Box isn't my daily driver. Cosorio, Thanks for the tip about AAA. I'm a member. I'll stop by my local AAA office next weekend.

Geez. What a PITA. I'm about 60 days past my registration. I scoured the DMV website to see if there was anything that I could do in the situation and didn't find anything useful about what to do while the issue is being repaired, but it makes sense that a temporary operating permit is the way to go. I have 2 readiness codes left and my CEL's seem to be under control, so I'm hopeful mine will get done soon and won't bother with the temp permit.

I'm in that boat right now. Car is registered and it has insurance but no sticker. How much was the ticket?

insite, Any updates on your CELs? I have been able to eliminate my P1117 by simply cleaning the contacts and using a jewelers screwdriver to push the contacts closer together within the harness. So far it seems to have done the trick. I'm still getting a P1115 even though I did the same with that sensor. I have to do more testing on that one. It may be out of spec.

that's the way it's supposed to work. the DME actuates the relay at startup since this is when heating needs to occur. after the car is warm, there is no need to heat the sensors as this occurs from the exhaust stream; the heaters are disabled at this point, so DME output should be 0V. I know. That is what's frustrating-everything seems to be working fine, but I get these CELs. I'm really interested in what you find.

I just took my car for a test drive and got the codes within minutes. It's like it's worsening. Ugh. FWIW, I also checked voltage at the DME and it seemed to behave fine. At start up, got 12 v constant but once hot it seemed to just send a short test signal. Based on this, at least in my case, I don't think it's the heater itself.