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deliriousga

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  • From
    Atlanta, GA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Porsche Boxster 5-Speed / Speed Yellow/Black
    1987 Porsche 928 S4 5-Speed / Polar Silver/Navy

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  1. That's bull. If that were the case, it would have the vibration from day one. Our 2000 Boxster didn't have any such vibration until 2006. I really think it's the dual mass flywheel. Something I hope to change in the near future, but I can't seem to find a lightweight flywheel for the 2000, 2.7L Boxster. The only ones I can find are for the 2.5L snd 3.2L engines.
  2. Lift the front wheels, grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it vertically. If it wiggles at all the ball joints are on the way out and need to be replaced pronto. Grab the wheel on the right and left and try to wiggle it horizontally. If it wiggles, the tie rod ends are going and need to be replaced.
  3. In AllData I don't see a heater valve either. I see a "heat exchanger" which seems to be what they call the heater core. It looks like the heat is always "on" with the temperature mixer flap opening and closing the valves to allow either hot or cool air in. That's the problem with mine. I have no heat when it's below freezing outside. If I run the car to normal operating temperature, I can pull over and re-start the car and the heat will work againl. The temperature mixing valve makes a grinding noise so it was easier for me to find the problem. Hope you find it soon before it gets too cold.
  4. is it only during deceleration and not also with acceleration? if it's both, i would check tire pressures and get the wheels balanced. Flywheel or pilot bearing. I'm about to change my clutch in the next few weeks and find out which it is. I'm not replacing the flywheel so if the vibration is still there when I'm finishied, it's the flywheel. Either the bearing wears or the flywheel wears off center and causes the problem. The reason it does not vibrate when accelerating is the engine is putting the pressure on the spin. Since the flywheel/pilot bearing are straight off the crankshaft, the spin is more balanced. On deceleration, the wheels are putting the pressure on the spin so the balance is centered on the tranny end of the drive shaft. If the pilot bearing/flywheel are the problem, then they are at the end with less pressure and can spin out of balance more easily. The other factor that will tell you it's in the drive train is if it happens in more than one gear at the same rpm. If so, then it's at different speeds. Different speeds mean it's not in the wheels or suspension. Wheel/suspension problems depend on speed of the vehicle so they would happen at speed ranges no matter what the rpm. Since the problem in mine started I've had the car aligned and balanced just because it was time to do it and there is no difference in the vibration so don't waste your money with balancing/alignment unless it's just time to do it.
  5. The creaking sound is most likely the ball joint. It's supposed to be sealed, but it loses some grease. If you use a large syringe, you can inject some grease (make sure it's safe for rubber parts) into the boot and your squeaks will go away. I'm going to eventually see if the replacement boots I have for the 928 are the same size and I'll post it when I find out, but it may be a while.
  6. There's an overflow tube so I don't think a high coolant level would be an issue. It would just spill out on street. If you look in your owner's manual on page 62 (for the '00 model), it shows a flashing light indicating low coolant OR a fault in the engine compartment blower fan. If you coolant level is good, check to see if your engine compartment fan is coming on. If not, it can be the fan itself, the relay for the fan or the temperature sensor for the fan that's mounted in the passenger side "spider" between intake tubes. The temp sensor was my problem awhile ago and I got the same flashing light. If your coolant is low, check under the carpet in the trunk to see if your reservoir is leaking from behind. Finally, like Loren said, get the Durametric tool. It will tell you if it's the seatbelt buckle or something else in the system before you clear the light. It will save you way more than the $250 you pay for it in the long run.
  7. i think it's all in your head. :lol: i have the same reaction every time i change my oil. and every time i fill up my gas tank, for that matter! i really think that oil is oil is oil. but if it works for you, by all means continue using it. btw, i think Porsche now recommends 0w-40. If oil is oil is oil, then put some regular (not synthetic) Quaker State in the Box and run it for the factory spec of 15K miles. Try a blended oil and do the same. Your mind will be changed...along with your engine. As far as the weight, the 0W40 is good for almost all climates. That's why Porsche puts it in at the factory. It's easier to have one weight and not have to worry about where/when the car is delivered. This began on 01/24/01. As of 7/28/06, the list of approved oils includes several brands only in 0W40 and 5W40 weights, all synthetic. You can get the full list at AllData along with all TSBs and repair info if you get a membership. :cheers:
  8. From AllData and the Bentley manual: Hexagon nut a/f 24 M16x1.5 65 ±5Nm (48 ±3.5 ft lb) Hexagon-head bolts M10 45 Nm (33 ft lb) Hexagon nut a/f 13 M8 15 Nm (11 ft lb) Look on the bolt head for the size or measure it. I can't remember which bolts are what size.
  9. That coolant line looks more like the "J" tube that goes into the air/oil separator. It looks like the crack in your filler tube is causing the leak like mine did. There's a vacuum on the tube so it can leak even though you are not filling it.
  10. Dashboard removal is not too bad. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to get it out and about 2 hours to get it back in. I don't think you will have to remove the dash for the heater actuator flap, though. I believe once you remove the passenger side airbag you should be able to reach everything ok, but don't quot me on that. Please post what you end up doing. I need to replace ours soon. You can hear it having a tough time, but it's not dead yet. :cheers:
  11. Cooland Indicator light came on today. My 2001 Porsche Boxster S is leaking coolant from the right rear wheel well. I immediatly brought cooland level back to the safe level (one quart). At the same time I noticed the coolant leaking from the right rear wheel well. Just removed trunk liner and yes there is cooland under the reservoir. I can't seem to tell where it is leaking from though. I started the car and waited until the raidator fan kicked in and still can't seem to see any additional leaks. Is it possible that the leak was from the blue cap, which I re-tightened after refill? Or there could be some other hidden leak around the reservoir? Any one else seem this problem? Thanks, Doug Sorry, I just saw this post. If the reservoir leaks, it does it from behind where you can't see it. The weak spots are along the back wall of the trunk so you just see coolant and no cracks. If the cap leaks, there's a drain hole that should allow it to drain without getting under the trunk liner. Also, if it leaks from the cap when the engine is hot, you will see a good bit of condensation on the trunk lid above the cap.
  12. Don't remove the gray one. The yellow clip connected to the steering wheel airbag is the one that comes off. Put a flathead screwdriver behind it and pry up a little to pop it off. Make sure the screwdriver is close to the center of the cap so you don't damage the plastic cap. :cheers:
  13. MY 2000 big problem. The gas door will not unlock with the doors. When I hit the locks, it makes a noise at the gas door but when you push on it, it's stuck. I've tried using the remote and unlocking with the key but it's still stuck. Any ideas? TIA!! :cheers:
  14. A quick way to know for sure if it's the coolant reservoir, just pull the right side of the trunk liner up. There will be coolant under it if the reservoir is leaking. :cheers:
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