jfoxny

I've been having sporadic electrical issues with my 2006 997 for some time now. In certain situations, usually when it's hot or humid out (and sometimes when hitting a hard bump), I experience a PSM failure and a Spoiler Failure. Recently the speedometer (both digital and analog) will also read 0mph while driving after this fault. I've pulled the fault codes with a Durametric (see below) and it seems to point to a faulty control module. When I took it to the dealer a while back, they also indicated it was a faulty ABS control unit. However, what's suspicious to me is that it only happens in certain conditions, again, when it's hot or humid out or when hitting a hard bump. The easy thing to do is to check the fault and say, "yep you need to replace that," but I'm curious if perhaps the problem could be more nuanced than that. Could it be a wiring issue somewhere in the car that, when it gets hot, the electrical resistance increases and the fault shows itself (similar to the issue with the starter wiring harness that was recalled)? I'm hesitant to just say go replace this part because it's quite pricey, only happens in certain situations, and most importantly, if the issue is elsewhere, I'd rather it be diagnosed properly and fixed. Unfortunately these days people seem to jump right to replace rather than really diagnose and fix the issue. Anyways, any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Jason DURAMETRIC RESULTS 987.618.109.06 4223 - Fault in DMW - read out fault memory C150 - Control unit communication engine electronics (drive) C153 - Communication steering wheel electronics control unit (drive) C101 - Control module faulty C140 - Communication instrument cluster (display) C158 - Communication gateway control unit (CAN drive) 997.641.103.12 C127 - Communication front control unit (comfort) C152 - Communication PSM control unit (drive) 997.610.102.05 8036 - Right seat heater 8035 - Left seat heater C152 - Communication PSM control unit (drive) C202 - Fault PSM control unit (display) C127 - Communication front control unit (comfort) 997.653.111.1 8035 - Interior sensor fan 997.610.107.03 C152 - Communication PSM control unit (drive) 997.610.105.11 8042 - Front luggage compartment unlocking C152 - Communication PSM control unit (drive) C202 - Fault PSM control unit (display) 8056 - Wheel speed/travel signal not OK 997.618.260.04 C127 - Communication front control unit (comfort) C130 - Communication steering wheel electronics (comfort) C152 - Communication PSM control unit (drive)

One thing I failed to mention is that after I brought the car in to diagnose the CEL (post-coil replacement), I noticed that when the car starts to idle the revs rise slightly before falling into idle. I thought at the time that perhaps the tech adjusted something to try to prevent the fault in the future but I know it did not do that before. Not sure if it's related or not.

Thanks for the response, Loren. Is this something I can determine using the Durametric tool? When I look at the "freeze frame" information regarding the faults for relevant information, I see the following: Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 = -4% Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 = 0 Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 = -3 % Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 = 3% Air Flow Rate from Mass Air Flow Sensor = 4 g/s ...and when I examine the "actual values" using the Durametric tool I get: Fuel trim adaption close to idle (RKAT) = 3.656% However, it's unclear to me how this feature of the Durametic works. Are you supposed to use it with the car running or is it showing me the last recorded actual values? Jason

A couple of months ago my CEL came on (2006 C2) and started flashing while driving on the highway. The car ran really rough so I called Porsche road side assistance and they told me even though the light was flashing I could drive it to the dealer. So, I did (about 30 miles). Turns out that two of my coils were cracked. The dealer ended up replacing all six coils under warranty (I guess there was some sort of informal recall on them). A couple of days later my CEL came on again so I went back to the dealer. The dealer scanned the car and said that the fault was something to do with "the fuel mixture being too lean at idle." However, they could not reproduce it and sent me on my way. Just yesterday, the CEL came back on again. Time time I scanned it myself with a Durametric tool. The fault appears to be the same faults that the dealer found: P2189 - Oxy. sensor control. RKAT bank 2 range near idle speed P2187 - Oxy. sensor control. RKAT bank 1 range near idle speed I read through the forums and saw some references to a loose oil cap being at fault. I checked that and it's quite tight. So, now I'm left wondering what else it could be. Specifically, I'm wondering if it might be related to the coil replacement or to the fact that I drove it with the cracked coils. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks Jason

Need to replace one in my 06 Cabriolet and all I'm finding on eBay are coupe parts. According to autoatlanta.com's parts diagrams they are different, however, I'm not sure why. As far as I know they are identical. Anyone know if they are right? COUPE http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=997-05-08&section=817-40 CABRIOLET http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=997-05-08&section=817-44 Also, what's the deal with the different part numbers depending on chasis number? Did they really change the seat back rests mid-cycle? Example: Until Chassis Number See Technical Information Gr.7 Nr. 17/11 Kd-Nr. 70 From Chassis Number See Technical Information Gr.7 Nr. 17/11 Kd-Nr. 70 Thanks in advance, Jason

1 - The dealer told me the software was up-to-date in the front and rear control modules 2 - The dealer checked this at my request the last time my car was in and they told me it was fine. My starter was also replaced recently but these problems far pre-date this issue. They still say the issue is the ABS Hydraulic Unit Pump (997-355-955-06). However, I'm having a difficult time getting the warranty company to agree.

Thanks for the quick reply. Well, it's a manual so tiptronic is out. I also do not have park assist, so, that's out. I guess it's down to the first three. I cleared the faults and this one did not come back. So, I guess I'll keep my fingers crossed on this. Jason

Thanks for the quick reply. I guess I will start with the bulbs and go from there. Jason

Thanks for the quick reply, Loren. Two questions: 1) Can I re-program the PSM module with the Durametirc tool (my guess is no)? 2) How do I check the grounds? When this originally happened I asked the tech to try reprogramming the front and rear control modules and he said that they were already up-to-date. Jason

This problem is still happening on occasion. When I turn the key to the accessory position it almost always throws a PSM Failure / System Failure fault. Recently got myself a Durametric tool and scanned the car after one of these faults appeared. Here's the set of fault codes (similar to the previous set from the first page): U0129 - Unkown fault code P0564 - Cruise control operating lever P0503 - Vehicle speed signal C152 - Communication PSM control unit (drive) C202 - Fault PSM control unit (display) Not sure if this provides anymore clues as it seems pretty similar to the original set. But, I figured I'd follow-up now that I have the Durametric. Maybe there's further diagnosis that I can do with the tool? I'm new to this tool. Thanks, Jason

Just got a Durametric. After clearing all faults, a few remained that I am not familiar with. What does: 8035 - Interior sensor fan indicate? A/C seems to work normally. Non-issue? Thanks, Jason

Finally got myself a Durametic tool. Hooked it up the other night and found several faults, most of which I knew about. However, there were a few that I wasn't aware of. Specifically: 8037 - Number plate light. Sure enough, I checked and the plate light is out. Does anyone know if this fault simply indicates a blown bulb or is there a bigger problem? Thanks, Jason PS - I'll post separately about the other faults.

It was the clip. There were a couple of plastic tabs that just pulled out but the clip was the final one. If you do remove it be careful not to loose the clip and the metal washer as it has a tendency it just pop off. Here's a photo of the trim piece removed:

I am trying to update my 996 hardtop with the latest screw-style locking pins so I can mount it on my 997 (also just updated with the new hardtop mounts). However, I'm not sure how to remove the plastic trim pieces that cover the locking pin mounts. They sort of look like speaker grills. I see metal clips on the underside of deck, but, I think those are for removing the mounts themselves. I did a bunch of searching and came up with this post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/11889-need-instructions-on-how-to-remove-hardtop-inside-trim/ However, the piece that I am trying to remove does not seem to be included in this diagram. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Jason Here is a photo of the clip (upper left) and the trim piece covering the locking pin mount that I am trying to remove:

This happened to me over this past weekend during a long trip. After being parked on the top of a parking garage overnight (in the hot sun) the PSE wouldn't turn on. I've been having other electrical issues with the car so it might be related - not sure yet. I am going to bring it into the dealer next week. I will post what they find. Problem turned out to be a failed Vacuum Actuator Unit (Bank 2) Part #997-111-680-00.