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Advice on what just happened to my 997 (2005/2006)


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Hi there,

Need some advice and pointers.

I live in Tokyo and have a 997 (2005/2006) with 15,000 kms on the clock.

Bought it from the Porsche dealer 18 months ago with 8,000 kms and had a used approved warranty on car that was valid for one year.

Been serviced at Porsche over the past 18 months.

I was driving home from work a couple of nights ago when I heard what I tough was a little metallic rattling noise, I was driving at about 40 kms an hour when the car suddenly stopped and switched off. Emergency triptonic warning lights appeared on the dashboard.

I managed to start the car again and pull over to the side.

When I looked under the car all the oil poured out on to the side of the road.

The tow company sent the car to Porsche.

Today the Porsche dealer said they need to remove the engine and transmission to check the problem and mentioned that the oil came from inside the engine room. Going to cost U$1,500 to U$2,000 to remove the engine and check.

Does this cost sound reasonable? Also any ideas what the cause is of this and how I should deal with Porsche on this issue. I am not sure if there are original factory warranties other than the Porsche approved warranty but wanted some pointers if you have any.

Never had issues like this with my Boxster and clocked up over 65,000 kms on it. So very surprised with this problem.

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If your car is a MY 2005 (VIN) than you have a big chance to enter in to the club of "intermediate shaft" victims. Porsche is generous in replacement engines for MY 05, contact them via OPC. Good luck.

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If your car is a MY 2005 (VIN) than you have a big chance to enter in to the club of "intermediate shaft" victims. Porsche is generous in replacement engines for MY 05, contact them via OPC. Good luck.

Huh? My car is a 2005 CS2, whats all this about intermediate shift victims and porsche replacing engines for them? Is there anything I should be worried about?

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Thanks a lot.

Will let you know how it goes and what they say.

So far the dealer mentioned that he can't tell yet if it is the intermediate shaft as he thinks the engine would not start if that was broken. But will onyl know for sure when they remove the engine.

He also thinks it could be the crank shaft seal which if it is would not take too long to fix.

As they are going to take the engine out is there anything I can ask them to do as a preventative measure in case the problem it is not the intermediate shaft, os that I will not have that particular problem.

Thanks for eth help and advice.

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Thanks a lot.

Will let you know how it goes and what they say.

So far the dealer mentioned that he can't tell yet if it is the intermediate shaft as he thinks the engine would not start if that was broken. But will onyl know for sure when they remove the engine.

He also thinks it could be the crank shaft seal which if it is would not take too long to fix.

As they are going to take the engine out is there anything I can ask them to do as a preventative measure in case the problem it is not the intermediate shaft, os that I will not have that particular problem.

Thanks for eth help and advice.

I think a failed IMS bearing is unlikely, because it hardly ever happens in cars with Tips. Please keep us informed, and if it's indeed not the IMS bearing, ask the dealer if he can replace the bearing while the engine is out. Good luck.

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Thanks a lot.

Will let you know how it goes and what they say.

So far the dealer mentioned that he can't tell yet if it is the intermediate shaft as he thinks the engine would not start if that was broken. But will onyl know for sure when they remove the engine.

He also thinks it could be the crank shaft seal which if it is would not take too long to fix.

As they are going to take the engine out is there anything I can ask them to do as a preventative measure in case the problem it is not the intermediate shaft, os that I will not have that particular problem.

Thanks for eth help and advice.

nageleri:

Separating the transmission from the engine will give your dealer access to the Rear Main Seal (a/k/a crankshaft seal). If he pulls the two apart, he can inspect the IMS bearing at the same time for any obvious signs that it is about to let go completely.

Aside from the oil spill, your mentioning of the light metallic rattling noise is what points to the IMS bearing failure. The car may still start if the bearing has not failed completely.

Go to the following link for excellent information about the IMS and a nice video showing how and why it fails: http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html

If you are lucky, you will learn that you have the single row bearing and that it hasn't let go completely and that you can have the bearing and its associated parts replaced without engine teardown. Make that very lucky.

Good luck! Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

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If you are lucky, you will learn that you have the single row bearing and that it hasn't let go completely and that you can have the bearing and its associated parts replaced without engine teardown. Make that very lucky.

Good luck! Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

Oops! 1schoir's right! I forgot that '05's likely have a double-race IMS bearing: just like mine! When you read the LN article, you'll see why you'd be lucky indeed if it doesn't. My fingers are crossed for you!

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There is no rhyme or reason to the type of IMS bearing fitted to an engine. I have a MY2005 987 , the parts catalogue suggests for the engine number , my car should have the later single row bearing and 10mm shaft. In reality it has the earlier single row bearing and 8mm shaft . I know this because the IMS bearing cover was replaced with the clutch and the original part sent by porsche was for the later version (as paer the parts listing) and didn't fit. The double rwo bearing was fitted to early 986 /996 engines , thereafter the single row bearing took over with initially an 8mm shaft , then latterly a 10mm shaft and more substantial bearing. The bearing covers are different both in bore size and depth , between the two versions of single row bearing. The early single row bearings (held with a circlip) are thinner cross section , so the covers are deeper. One type of the single row bearing is retained by a circlip , only this variant can be replaced in situ without the engine requiring removal and disassembly. Double row and non circlip single row bearings require the engine out and strip down to be replaced.

Edited by berty987
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Ok. Dealer called up today and the Intermediate Shaft was broken so they need to replace the engine. My warranty has expired but the Porsche dealer said that they will rebuild it for free. It will take about one month to do.

Is there anything about engine rebuilds that I should be aware of? Is it generally a new motor they put in the car? Also any preventative measure that should be taken going forward?

I have asked for more specific details from the dealer as to what he thinks caused it and if I get the info I will share in the forum.

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The break in procedure of a rebuild is the same as a new engine, instructions are indicated in the owners manual. The odometer and DME remains untouched.

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  • 1 month later...

That seems to be the case. That is why Porsche is being more compliant about replacing engines for free even out of warranty.

According to RFM (a moderator here) 2005 was Porsche's worst engine build year ever.

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Guys,

I have been reading about this and it is now really worrying me. Most of what I read however is saying this has been an issue on all porsches since 1999. Most of what I see is the 996 3.4 liter. So i was wondering why are we saying that the 2005 porsche 3.6 is the worst engine?

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Having the intermediate shaft problem is the best thing that happened to me (after receiving a new engine for free of course) :) car is running perfectly so far (10K km after new engine).. I wouldn't drive without warranty though.

Goodluck and dont worry.

H

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