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Ngk Spark Plugs On A 996 Carrera


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Hello I'm a newbie here & I was wondering if NGK Spark Plugs BKR6-EK would work well on my 1999 Porsche 911 Carrera?

It's my first Porsche & eventhough it's at 9,789miles, i would want to change the tune-up parts for the car since I am the 2nd owner here in the Philippines.

Thank you.

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I'm going to be the odd man out here and recommend the NGKs. I just installed a set from Pelican and the car runs much better. No CEL, no problems. Years ago on another car I discovered that the Bosch +4 is just a marketing gimmick and actually hurts your cars performance when switching from NGK. Since then I have never installed them again in any car I have owned. P cars will run just fine with Bosch and you can't go wrong but there is a noticeable improvement with the NGKs.

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I'm going to be the odd man out here and recommend the NGKs. I just installed a set from Pelican and the car runs much better. No CEL, no problems. Years ago on another car I discovered that the Bosch +4 is just a marketing gimmick and actually hurts your cars performance when switching from NGK. Since then I have never installed them again in any car I have owned. P cars will run just fine with Bosch and you can't go wrong but there is a noticeable improvement with the NGKs.

Good to hear they work just as well. Now we have an answer and I learned somethingrolleyes.gif

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Back when I worked for Bosch in the South East Asia region, the marketing emphasis for the Super 4 was not so much any added performance, but rather that having 4 electrodes meant that the prescribed gaps would widen 4 times slower than single electrode plugs, and 2 times slower than double electrode plugs, resulting in longer service life than conventional plugs - it was as simple as that. During product training we would also emphasize that only one of the gaps fired at any one time, not all 4, and that it would be random, whichever air gap that would jump easiest at the particular time. I think consumers may have made assumptions about the product that were never intended.

I think it's placebo effect if someone thinks NGK's improve how a vehicle operates but I do agree that +4's are a marketing scam.

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The used 4 mass electrodes plugs act different than the classic 1 mass electrode plug, the spark slides from the central electrode, over the insulator, to the nearest mass electrode, which create that way, a much longer in distance spark, which is able to ignite a leaner fuel/air mix. On classic 1 or 2 mass electrode plugs, the spark jumps from the central to the nearest mass electrode, where the spark length is noticeable smaller.

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That is what they termed surface-air gap, whereby the carbon or soot buildup on the insulator allows the spark to jump along the conductive deposits and then the the air gap to the electrode, effectively a self-cleaning feature. However, I believe this exists for any spark plug, not just the Bosch ones. As long as there is an electrode, there are two ways it can spark, the air gap, or the surface-air gap. For a single electrode plug - there are two ways, 2 electrode - 4 ways, and the 4 electrode - 8 ways. It's just that with 4 electrodes, the rate of widening of the gap is slower as it is shared by multiple electrodes, and this is the main USP of the Bosch 4 electrode spark plug.

The used 4 mass electrodes plugs act different than the classic 1 mass electrode plug, the spark slides from the central electrode, over the insulator, to the nearest mass electrode, which create that way, a much longer in distance spark, which is able to ignite a leaner fuel/air mix. On classic 1 or 2 mass electrode plugs, the spark jumps from the central to the nearest mass electrode, where the spark length is noticeable smaller.

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Jeez guys, let's make this overly complicated…………….. We've used everything from two, three and four side electrode Beru and Bosch; to single side electrode NGK and Denso Iridium's, and they all worked fine as long as they are the correct heat range. I've had a set of Denso Iridium's (single side electrode) in my personal car for some time, runs just fine, have a couple of customer's turbos using them as well, work just fine……………. No magic here.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I put NGK in mine at 30,000 miles, 2 years ago. I won't bother making dubious claims of better performance or the engine running smoother or the other general nonsense people use when replacing parts. Replacing worn spark plugs (or any other worn component) is always going to result in better performance. However in the 2 years and 10,000 miles I've had them in, I have not had any issues or "headaches."

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...

Hello, just want to resurrect this post...

 

I'm getting misfires on a couple of cylinders in my 2001 996 Cab. and looks like CEL codes point to either packs, sparks or both.  So going to a complete service and replace the whole lot.

 

See at Pelican Parts and ECS Tuning  Coil Packs Choice of:  OEM, Beru, Hamburg Technic and TPI

 

Spark Plugs Choice of:  OEM(Bosch), Bosch, Beru, & NGK

 

Too many choices, just want to go with most reliable and cost effective.  Suggestions please?

 

Also, should I replace the sparkplug tubes(and O Rings) while I'm there?

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Hello, just want to resurrect this post...

 

I'm getting misfires on a couple of cylinders in my 2001 996 Cab. and looks like CEL codes point to either packs, sparks or both.  So going to a complete service and replace the whole lot.

 

See at Pelican Parts and ECS Tuning  Coil Packs Choice of:  OEM, Beru, Hamburg Technic and TPI

 

Spark Plugs Choice of:  OEM(Bosch), Bosch, Beru, & NGK

 

Too many choices, just want to go with most reliable and cost effective.  Suggestions please?

 

Also, should I replace the sparkplug tubes(and O Rings) while I'm there?

 

As noted in my post above, there are a lot of quality plugs and coils available; if you are unsure of what to buy, do what many owners do and stay with the factory choices for the components, which are proven to be long term performers.

 

If your plug tubes are not leaking, leave them alone.

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Thanks JFP, I'm going straight with OEM.. No need to mess around with aftermarket considering the importance of these parts.

 

As long as I see no oil on old plugs = tubes OK?  should I run my finger down into tube?

Edited by srfrdrew
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Thanks JFP, I'm going straight with OEM.. No need to mess around with aftermarket considering the importance of these parts.

 

As long as I see no oil on old plugs = tubes OK?  should I run my finger down into tube?

 

If the plug tubes were leaking, there would be oil on the plugs as well as on the cam covers; if everything is dry, leave it alone.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Changed out the plugs and coils on my 2001 996.

 

996 fired up and ran beautifully after tune up no CEL's.  Performance and drivability is  noticeable.  Start up much quieter, idle more stable and smooth as well as gear transitions smooth.

 

The installation procedure as stated in many forums is correct, make sure you take your time and leave enough time so you don't rush though.  Access is the major issue and a bit of a PIA to access the the furthest cylinders #1 and #4.  However found the most challenging part was unscrewing and screwing back the mounting screws for # 1 and #4 Coil packs.  Just as long as you have a good tool kit with adapters, etc etc... Getting everything out and back in again is doable, not easy, but doable... I actually found that doing my 2004 Cayenne S Coils and Plugs more of a hassle.

 

It's interesting that I was having issues/codes referring to both # 1 and #4, may be coincedence or maybe the Porsche tech who replaced them a couple of years ago had access issues like I did and did not correctly install? (just a thought)

 

The plugs that were replaced were Beru, I went with the Bosch "Super" "OEM" non Porsche Branded plugs as well as the Beru "OEM" non Porsche Branded coils.. So far so good!

Edited by srfrdrew
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  • 1 month later...

I'm going to go out on a limb here by saying changing sparks and coils (based on how much its driven and climate) should be done every year or two.

 

The coils (and plugs) are subject to alot of heat and outside influences (water, mud, etc particularly the coils) and such if you are taking the time to replace the plugs, you might as well do the coils at the same time cause of the PIA it is to do this service.

 

For the cost of the parts, might as well do it all since you are saving on the labor anyways.

 

Just my thoughts on this for the day.

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