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All DIY Tutorial Activity

Showing tutorials posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Earlier
  2. DIY: Manual Radiator Fan Switch w/ an OEM Switch Fan Switch Part List $32 Defroster Switch, Matte Finish (996-613-134-10-A05) $25 Omron MY2K-DC12 Latching Relay $5 ATC Fuse Tap with .250 Male Disconnect $5 2.8MM Female Wire Terminal Various Male & Female Disconnects, Butt Connectors and Heat Shrink Tubing Various Lengths of 16AWG Wire Optional: $23 2-Button Batwing (996-552-335-02) Garage Switch Part List $47 996TT Targa Switch (996-613-119-10-A05) Various Male & Female Disconnects, Butt Connectors and Heat Shrink Tubing Various Lengths of 16AWG Wire Background The 986 is equipped with a left and right radiator fan. These fans have two speeds, high and low. The low speed fans come on whenever the AC is turned on, the high speed fans trigger when the coolant temp hits 215° F or the AC pressure hits a certain level (source Bentley Manual). While you could wire a switch to trigger the low or high fans, you can already trigger the low fans by turning on the AC, which is why this modification focuses on triggering the high fan speed. The point of installing a manual switch is to help cool your 986 before it hits the temperature threshold where the high speed fans would automatically come on. This could include track days where you want extra cooling and do not want to lose horsepower to the AC, or when you are in summer traffic and want to keep the car from heating up. Installing a manual switch should not override the normal operation of the high or low speed fans, it just lets you trigger them manually. If you leave the switch on when the car is turned off, the fans will automatically turn off after a short delay, and the fans will come on the next time the car is started. Preparation Start by disconnecting your battery, and placing a small block over the trunk latch to ensure the trunk does not accidentally close while the battery is disconnected. If you are installing the switch into the batwing trim piece: -Remove the carpeted trim on the driver and passenger side of the lower center console by grabbing the rear of the carpet and pulling out until the clips release, then slide the trim back and out. -Then remove the leather/leatherette trim on either side of the lower center console by grabbing it from the back and pulling out until the clips release, then slide it forward and off. -You can now remove the batwing by pulling on each side of the trim piece. -While not necessary I wanted room to work, so I also removed both cubbies from my lower center console. Remove the upper one first by pulling it out from each side, then the lower cubby is able to removed the same way. Step 1 - Wiring the Relays First you want to identify the high speed fan relays. They are located in the driver’s footwell above the fuse panel. The bottom row that is visible has four 53 relays, looking at the diagram the high speed relays are #20 and #22. Remove both relays. Now take a fuse tap and pliers to bend it to fit Pin 85 on the relay. The fuse taps I purchase required some filing to make them wide enough to over the relay pin. With the fuse tap installed, secure it to the relay. I decided not to use electrical tape because the relays can get quite hot while the car is running and I want to avoid a sticky mess, so I instead opted to secure them with a zip tie which I pulled tight with a pair of pliers. Note that the head of the zip tie is pointing down to make it easier to reinstall next to the other relays. Next take approximately two 6” wires and install two female disconnects on one end of each wire which attaches to the fuse taps, then combine both wires into a single butt connector. On the other side of the butt connect you want a few feet of wire that terminates in a disconnect (male or female depending on how you wire the relay and switch), mine ended with a female disconnect. This is the Pin 85 wire, that will be attached the latching relay later on. Route the wire to the center console, by pushing it up and around the plastic air tube above the driver’s footwell, then into the lower center console. Step 2 - Wiring the Switch and Latching Relay Since I was using the batwing trim piece I started by installing the switch into the batwing. This is tougher than you would think. With the switch in place but not “snapped in” I placed the batwing and switch on the edge of a table with the outside facing up. By using the edge of the table I could rest the batwing on the switch pins but let the batwing hooks which are longer hang off the edge. I think hit the trim piece with my hand until the switch snapped into place. I also placed thin cardboard on the table to avoid it getting scratched by the switch pins. The switch should sit flush with the batwing if installed correctly. The 2.8MM female disconnects are for the relay pins which are smaller than the switch pins, which accept normal female disconnects. To make the batwing removable, I used male and female disconnects. If you decided to do like me, instead of just hardwiring it into the car without any way to disconnect it, you would end up with four wires that need to be hooked up: Relay Pin 85, 12V Switched Power, Ground, Illumination Power. It is rather hard to describe the wiring in text so please review the diagram below. Switch Pin 1 - Relay Pin 14 Switch Pin 2 - Relay Pin 12 Switch Pin 3 - Illumination Power from dash Defroster Switch Pin 3 Switch Pin 4 - 12V Switched Power from Phone Connector Switch Pin 5 - Relay Pin 5 Relay Pin 9, 10, 11, 13 - Ground (I used the Phone Connector Ground) Relay Pin 11 - Pin 85 Wire Relay Pin 1 & 4 are not used Notes: -The Phone Connector 12V Switched power is Green/Black -The Phone Connector Ground is Brown -I wrapped the latching relay in some electrical tape to help “cushion” it but that probably isn’t necessary. -For the 4 Relays Pins that need to be grounded, I connected the wires using butt connectors. -The illumination power must come from the dash Defroster Switch Pin 3, this switch is wired differently than the others, and using a different source will cause the switch to always be on. Step 2.5 - Illumination Wiring I had previously tapped into the cigarette lighter for illumination power and ground, and the original plan was to use the same wiring. In most of the pictures in this guide you can see that the two switches share a wire, which was supposed to be the illumination wire. However, the defroster switch uses a different signal for illumination than every other other switch in the car. So you need to tap into the defroster switch in the dash for the illumination to work properly. Take a butter knife and insert it into the bottom of the switch panel, then carefully pry the trim piece out, it should unsnap and come free. The wiring hareness doesn't give you much room to work with, but you only need to remove the plug from the defroster switch. I used a flathead screwdriver to get it started, then carefully removed it the rest of the way, being careful not to damage my dash. As you can see, I chose to use another fuse tap on Pin 3 of the dash Defroster Switch. I secured it with a zip tie, and then ran a wire behind the center console to the lower center console. I removed the radio to route the wire, it may be possible without this step, but it would be difficult. Removing the radio requires inserting radio keys into the lower left and right slots. Step 3 - Installing the Batwing & Switch Slide the latching relay and wiring through the batwing opening. You may not be able to fit the latching relay through the batwing opening, so be prepared to disconnect the relay from the switch and plug it back in. With the wiring in place, connect the four loose wires: the Pin 85 wire that runs to the relays, the illumination power coming from the defroster switch, and the phone connector power and ground. Test the fan switch by reconnecting the battery and turning your key to the first position (power on), the latching relay requires 12V to operate, so it won’t work with the car off or the battery disconnected. The left side of the switch should trigger the high speed fans, and the amber LED in the switch should illuminate, the right side of the switch will stop the fans. Snap the batwing into place, and reinstall the lower center console trim in the reverse order. The Easy Way Follow Step 1 to tap the relays, then connect them to a simple on/off switch with the other end grounded to the phone connector or another ground point. You can stick the switch on the bracket under the steering wheel. I originally installed a simple switch this way and it worked fine, but I wanted a more clean and permanent installation. My last step is to install a 2.5" silver '986" decal on the batwing. Thank you to particlewave for his help figuring out the wiring on 986forum, and RennTech member Sandy that created the latching relay diagram I modified. You can also find this DIY on my personal website: blueboxster.com Note on the Engine Compartment Fan: You could also use this same switch to ground the engine compartment fan, you would just spice it in to the Pin 85 wire. I chose not to bother running a wire from the engine compartment fan relay in the rear trunk, because after using my durametric to review my oil, coolant and engine compartment temperatures and manually trigger the engine compartment fan, the engine compartment temperature does not appear to have any significant affect on the oil or coolant temperatures. Garage Switch Because I installed my fan switch in a 2-button batwing, I needed another switch to avoid using a blank (I have been on a quest to eliminate blank switches from my 986 since I got it). I decided to hardwire my garage door opener. I opened my garage door opener and used a wire to determine which two contacts needed to be connected to trigger the opener. I then soldered two wires to the two contacts, and drilled a hole in the side of the opener for the wires. You can test the opener by touching the two wires together to see if the garage door opens/ closes. Next I wired one wire to Pin 4, and the other wire to Pins 1 & 2. This allows both sides of the switch to open the garage door. If you have two garage doors you could wire one side of the switch to open one or the other. Pin 3 is the Illumination Power, and Pin 5 is the Illumination Ground. I installed disconnects on the two illumination wires and on the three garage switch wires to make the batwing removable, and to make changing the battery in my garage door opener easier.
  3. Cayenne route wire thru firewall2.pdf
  4. I found this and it is a great info on how one can remove door panel on the Panamera. This vid shows details on what to watch out for, what to do. If you find yourself wanting to replace any of the switches on the doors, get behind he panel, this vid shows it all. Enjoy.
  5. The cigar lighter and footwell accessory sockets in the Gen 2 are always live (I think this is also the case with Gen 1). This is great when using a battery conditioner (e.g. CTEK) as it means this can be connected via the cigar lighter. NB - The cigar socket is protected by 15A fuse whereas accessory sockets by 7.5A - You must always use the cigar socket for big loads (e.g. tyre compressor) and for charging. However, I am not sure how many others have the issue of having several accessories plugged into the accessory socket - in my case, a charging adaptor for phone; a Road Angel and a dash cam. Whilst all are in standby when not in use, I do not unplug them as it's a bind to unplug/plug in the blessed multi-way socket I use for all these adaptors; it also means the wiring, normally neatly concealed has a habit of coming out of its hiding places. What I do find is that the combined drain of these various devices, albeit in standby, contributes to the draining of the battery when left for any period of time. In an ideal world, the accessory socket(s) would be switched (ie turned on with ignition) and off when the ignition is off. Further, it would be helpful if the socket could then be turned on permanently should the need arise. I considered a couple of options. One could run a switched live from the fuse box situated in the drivers footwell (from fuse row C) and use a SPDT switch to select between this and permanent 12V supply, wiring this to the accessory outlet. In the end I elected to use a relay to switch the existing 12V supply and avoid changing the loading on any of the existing fused circuits, The relay is activated from a tap taken from an existing switched (Terminal 15) wire from behind the dash - I used the supply to the switch module for PASM, spoiler etc. as this is fairly straightforward to access. Given this is only used to activate the relay, the additional load is no more than around 120mA (relay coil impedance about 100 ohms). This is the circuit diagram. PLEASE NOTE that you should check any components you use as they may differ. I used a micro relay with a built in flyback protection diode - if you use a similar relay, these must be connected the correct way round. I also used an illuminated switch so again, ensure the pins are connected correctly for the LED to illuminate when switch is on. Relay: Pin 30 - Permanent 12V Pin 87 - Switched 12V Pin 86 - Coil+ Pin 85 - Coil- Switch Pin 1 - Permanent 12V Pin 2 - Accessory Pin 3 - LED Ground These are the installation steps I followed. 1. Remove the accessory socket panel from passenger footwell. My car is a convertible so its a bit different to coupe. On the convertible the screw is hidden behind the vaned plasix insert which you have to unclip first. Undo the screw and you can then unplug the accessory socket from the cable harness. 2. I drilled and filed out a 20mm hole ready to accept a toggle switch. 3. To get access to the cable harness for the PASM, Spolier, Sport Mode switch module, you have to remove the passenger and driver side trim panels. On the passenger side, remove 2 torx 20 screws. On the drivers side there is a little carpeted piece which is unscrewed first (the torx 25 screw is hidden in the carpet trim so poke around with finger to find it. Once this piece is removed, the trim can be undone (2 torx 20 screws). The side panel trims can now be removed by pulling/pushing forward. These side panel trims are a fiddle to remove as the front edges are retained by clips. Be gentle and patient when removing these. 4. Once removed the trims you have access to the clips that retain the switch module. 5. Depress these clips and the module can be withdrawn. There is also a little clip on the top of the switch module which has to be pushed down a bit to fully remove the module. You now have access to the plug to the switch module and can unplug it. 6. I next turned my attention to the relay. I fashioned a little bracket from a bit of bendy metal strip I had laying around. The relay is secured using a cable tie. I also put a bit of rubber strip on the bracket just to avoid squeeks etc. 7. My chosen position for the relay. I drilled a small hole in the plastic cage and secured using a self tapping screw. Note the cable tie securing the relay to the bracket. There are other options for installing the relay. Make sure your chosen location does not get in the way of the side panel or other bits. 7. 8. The next step is where we start to do more invasive surgery. As a precaution I removed the fuses to the circuits I was doing surgery on. Fuse 8 on row A feeds the accessory socket and Fuse 8 on Row C feeds the button module. The switched (Term 15) supply I am using is on pin 3 of the button module and is supplied via Red/Grey wire. Be really careful here as there are also Grey/Red wires. You need the RED/GREY on PIN 3. I removed the red case bit of the plug (cut the little cable tie) in order to make life a bit easier. I cut the RED/GREY and tapped the wire (using a bullet connector) adding a tap wire (yellow in pictures). I then put the plug back in the casing and re secured using a new cable tie. I looped the yellow wire through the cable tie to give a bit of strain relieve. 9. Next I cut off the plug to the accessory socket and attached female bullet connectors to the ends. Be careful here as the loom cable is not very long and you wil need to get access to the cut ends to crimp on the female bullet receptacles. The RED/BLACK cable is permanent live. 10. I now fashioned a wiring loom to connect everything up and installed this in place. I removed the relay to make connecting it up easier (which is why relay is dangling in footwell in one of the pictures). 11. Now it is a case of putting everything back together. Put the side panel trims back in first. Again, can be a bit of a fiddle to get them lined up, but do not force anything, when they are lined up right they will slide in and clip in place. Secure them using the torx screws. Put in the little carpeted piece on drivers side. Put back the accessory socket panel. Be careful regarding placement of cables. On Cabrio, be careful not to end up with cables going into the air duct move them to the right where the accessory socket and its plug go. Do not be rough, everything should go into place without force. Dont forget to clip in the vaned insert (Cabrio). 12. Job Done. When toggle switch is in the Off position, the accessories are powered when ignition is on. Can override this by flipping switch to on position.
  6. The radiator grills on the 986 sit very low and thus tend to collect quite a bit of debris and garbage faster than other cars. The design of the radiators and front air intakes is such a way that any debris which enters the grill get jammed between the radiator and the inside of the front bumper body panel. Cleaning out your radiators and the garbage stuck behind the front bumper should be done periodically as leaving anything in there can cause inefficiencies to your cooling (A/C and engine) and also rust your radiators once the debris gets wet. By adding mesh to the standard grill, using gutter guards for rain gutters, you can reduce the amount of debris which can enter your grill. This is a simple process and adds not only functional value, but I think it looks pretty great too. For me it took roughly 4 hours to access, clean the radiators and air intakes, and add the mesh to my front grills(not including painting the grills). Parts you'll need: • Gutter Guard (this is the same stuff you use for rain gutters on a house to keep leaves and junk from building up in the gutter) - Buy two sheets of this. • High gloss, black spray paint • Tiny black zip ties - nothing too thick, but don't go too wimpy either. You'll need about 4 zip ties. Tools you'll need: • Torx set • Vacuum • Aluminum shears • Wet rag and soap to wipe down the air intake duct which is likely dirty. I won't cover how to remove the front bumper, as that's available widely across Youtube, Renntech, and other DIY sites. Here's the Youtube video I used (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=280&v=X2q54XtupVo). So we'll get started with this tutorial once you have the front bumper cover removed. 1. The first step is to remove the grills which are held in place with 4 plastic tabs and pull out from the inside of the front bumper cover. This is fairly straight forward – just be sure to follow the general rule of not trying to force anything! Use the images below to help. From this image, you can see 4 plastic tabs are used to secure the grill in place, while 3 tabs on top are flat and just used to align the grill. 2. With the grills out, it’s time to trace them on paper so you can cut your mesh correctly. I used a big sheet of painters drop paper, which I’ll later use when painting the grills, to trace around the whole perimeter of the grill piece. It’s important to trace around the whole piece rather than just the vent portion, because the grill is rounded and so the mesh will need to bend in order to make this a tight fit. If your mesh is too small debris will be able to make it past your grill. 3. Now it’s time to cut your gutter guard. Using the metal shears, cut the mesh to match the outline you traced in step 2. I found it easy to use a box knife to score and transfer the tracing from the paper to the gutter guard (since the gutter is painted, you just use the box knife to score the paint). Your cuts don’t need to be perfect. Mine aren’t rounded, but you’ll see that they still create a great seal for stopping junk. 4. This next step is optional, though it makes a big difference in terms of looks! I painted by grills. There’s nothing fancy you need to do when painting them. I applied three coats of paint just to ensure it was solid. Let them dry for at least a day or two or else the paint will easily chip. 5. The next step is to cut a whole out for the outside temp sensor which is sticks through the left grill (when looking at the car head on). Before cutting the hole for the sensor, be sure to test out your mesh by holding it against and fitting it (bending it to form) with the respective grill it’s for. This doesn’t need to be an exact science, and in this case it’s always better to cut less and test it rather than cut too much. I determined where the hole needed to be cut by holding the fitted mesh against the grill and scoring the part of the mesh which aligned with the hole on the grill. I cut a small rectangle that is about a half inch, or in my case three snips of the mesh. I probably couldn’t gone a bit smaller, but you can’t really notice. 6. Next step is to adhere the mesh to the grill. I did this a bit differently than others have since I didn’t’ want the mesh to be permanently attached to the grill. I used small black zip ties which aren’t visible when viewing the car but hold the mesh securely in place and allow it to be replaced if they become damaged or a future owner doesn’t want them. In the picture below you can see I used 4 zip ties for each grill. Two on the very bottom which help support the mesh from sliding down, and two at the very top which help the mesh from being pushed back into the intake duct. 7. The most difficult part of reassembly is aligning the outside temp sensor with the hole you made. Prior to having mesh installed this was simple because you could just put your fingers in the grill and guide it. There’s no trick to this, just take your time aligning it as you put the bumper panel back on. It doesn’t need to be aligned perfectly since you can use needle nose pliers to adjust it after the bumper panel is in place.
  7. This is probably the easiest mod you can do for the car. I am actually surprised it came out really nice. You end up having a nice Porsche logo projected on the ground, directly below the doors, as you enter the car. Total cost was $28 dollars shipped, and maybe 5 minutes of time to install. Enjoy.
  8. Before I started, I called around and found a shop that has a press and many adapters, so they can press out wheel hub from wheel carrier, then press out the bearing, then press in new bearing and finally press in old wheel hub. Shop I found did it for me, charged me 20 bucks, 20 minutes. Below shows you what you need to remove to get to the wheel carrier, so you can take it to shop and have bearing replaced. Hope this helps out. You would want to do this if you notice noises in car while driving, such as rythmic tapping (without any vibration), or general much louder noise while driving. These are typical symptoms of bearing going bad (balls being shaved a little, creating noises while driving). In my case, I heard general increased road noise, and tapping that increased as speed was increased. While driving in tight circles on road, noticed the tapping became much more pronounced while turning left. While turning right, the tapping would almost disappear. Therefore, since turning left puts more load/weight onto right side axle, I deduced the right or passenger side needs bearing replacement. Axle was not compromised, in great shape, so I did not replace it. Some replace both axle and bearing. Since my axle was stuck to the carrier, i had to use propane torch from walmart, to heat inner perimeter of hub, then used 8-10lbs sledge to bang onto axle, to separate from wheel carrier. I used old spindle nut as shield for axle, so I can reuse the axle, with new purchased spindle nut. Replacing entire wheel carrier will cost you about 1000 bucks. Buying bearing for 100, paying about 20 for a shop to replace bearing itself, and doing work on your own will save you about 2000 bucks on this job. Good luck and chime in with comments if needed.
  9. Before you install new bearing into the knuckle, it is recommended you repack the grease. Why? The oem grease is about 200˚F. Repacking with high pressure and high temp (800˚F - CV-2), will ensure max protection. This will be part of my diy for replacing bearing, but making this separate in case folks do on their own too.
  10. I believe it's a fairly common issue, but granted that I've only been around these Cayennes for a short while. Failure modes: 1-Unable to release latch to tilt seat-back forward, failure to unlatch. 2-Seat latch fails to secure seat-back in the upright position, failure to latch For me, I was running into failure mode #2. When pushing the seat-back up it would not latch no matter how hard I tried. I sourced a new-used replacement from ebay. The parts between 955 and 957 are interchangeable. Unsure about 958. Tools required: -torx bit/driver/key, T20 I believe, or T25 -triple square bit, I forget the size but can update later -wrench that fits triple square bit, I used a ratchet with a 13mm socket Step 1: Remove two torx screws, T20 I believe. The first screw is partially hidden by the latch lever, pivot the lever and remove the screw. The second screw is installed from the side, in the opening of the plastic latch cover. The plastic on my cover had cracked around where the screw was inserted, so it is shown here after removal. The entire plastic cover assembly is now free and is removed by sliding up along the same axis as the first screw. If you are experiencing failure mode 1, at this point you should inspect your plastic cover assembly. It is possible that three tabs on the lever can break off as shown here. If this is the case, you simply need to replace that part and not the entire latch. The latch assembly is held on by two triple-square screws which are visible once the plastic cover is removed. Remove these screws and the latch will be come loose. Then there is a plastic clip that holds the upholstery to an edge of the latch, shown front and center in this photo, that simply pulls off. The latch, removed from the seat back. Here is the top of the latch, this cup with the three slots corresponds to the latch handle that should have three tabs. Another option for failure mode #1 is that the latch itself had a broken component, there is a 2-prong fork that should cover the front and back side of this post, as you can see the rear prong is broken off. That post is connected to the cup, which the lever is assembled to. So when you pull back on the lever to release the seat back, it turns the cup, and rotates the post against the fork, which releases the latch. In my circumstance it seems as if it was a 2-part problem. My fork was broken, but when I purchased the truck my problem was failure mode #2, not being able to latch it. My theory is that the broken part of the fork lodged itself into the latch and prevented it from securing properly. Next, reassemble with new or used parts that are not broken. It's pretty self explanatory here with the exception of lining up the plastic cover/lever assembly. You need to pull the lever as if you were disengaging the latch, and then feed the plastic cover assembly down ensuring that the round 3-prong section aligns with the 3-slot cup. I have heard that there is some adjustment you can do with the post that this latch connects to, the post mounted into the chassis itself. Adjustment here, if it does exist, would move it slightly so that the latch would travel further over the post and enable it to latch. Upon testing my new latch worked fine so I didn't explore this option. Finally, you want to keep that latch working well. From now on when you want to release the seat-back, first push the seat-back back and then while holding it pull the lever to release. This puts far less strain on the release mechanism and will prolong it's life.
  11. If you buy your car pre owned, or if it went into limp mode, or you just think you have some quirks in it, one way to diagnose or pd if you have issues, is to try reset the PDK itself. The car learns driver habits over time. After a few years, a new owner may have different driving style, and this reset will help the new owner get car into factory condition, so it can learn new owner habits and hopefully be a better experience for the new driver. Below pic is from Porsche, and gives 4 steps on how to reset PDK to factory mode. Good luck. Hope it helps someone here.
  12. I did not bother to do a DIY for oil change, because there are some vids out there on how to perform this work. Below is a link to one of these videos, will walk you through the complete oil change. Items I used: - Oil: Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W40 - purchased 10 quarts, will use about 9 or so - Oil Filter: Mahle OX 254 D4 - replace this part every time - Drain plug: 900 219 020 31 - if you are gentle and do not screw up the hex hole in the plug, you can re use the plug. Be gentle, get proper tools (8mm hex/allen wrench) - Drain plug gasket: 900 123 106 30 - put in a new one with every oil change. If oil starts leaking here, you will waste an hour or two to replace just this part, plug oil cost. All for $0.50 savings. There are magnetic oil drain plugs out there. I may try one at some point to see how much metallic particulate collects on it. Not today though. Below is a video for complete oil change. After oil change, make sure to reset the oil change service interval, by following instructions in this DIY - Durametric users. Thanks. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwHgrbN5TaM
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