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Self-update: So I read up on the issue and I found, among other things, https://www.renntech.org/topic/44251-996tt-strange-coolant-leak/ . The experience would be consistent with mine, multiplied by 6.5 years as opposed to three days. The part where I'm concerned, of course, is the subsequent sudden failure when the glued in connectors decide to give way - if that is indeed what is happening. On the other hand, I do not know that it makes sense (...) to pull out an engine to get out the coolant distribution block, force out the connectors and bond them again 'just in case', but I hate the concept of not being able to trust that the car won't decide to take a break on me. From all the videos I could find, it can be *pretty difficult indeed* to say the least to pinpoint things further but.. I'm open to ideas.

No sir, the oil was positively beautiful. And - no smoke from the tailpipes either. I'm really at a loss.

No oil in the coolant. Any coolant in the oil?

As I mentioned in the other post, my US 996 is back on the road. But. But, there was an interesting mystery: the coolant was way down. As in, down by 3 quarts. The interesting part is: there was none on the ground, there was none in the engine bay (I assume the water pump has the usual weep hole which would cause pretty visible residue and/or spray. There was no coolant in the oil and, as far as I could tell, no oil in the coolant. What's my next diagnostic step? I am at a bit (a lot) of a loss. Thank you everyone!

So it ended up not being five years. It ended up being almost seven. The car was parked in October 2019. I put it back on the road today - in June 2026. How did it go? Amazingly well. I got out as much of the old fuel as I could - and it was not all. Put in a can of Seafoam (advisedly) and 5 gallons of 'fresh' gas. Left it to think about what it had done for an hour or so. Put in a new battery and turned the key - no, I had not changed the oil yet. It caught as fast as it could prime the fuel rails. From key turn to running, less than ten seconds. I was expecting the boxer cloud - not even vaguely. Drove it out of storage to where I could work on it, ~0.7 mi going 30 mph in fifth. It was running a little rough but not... bad. Got it to where it needed to be. Stopped it. Went in to grab some tools. Swore because the car was not centered in the lift. Restarted it -> it started like it did in 2008 when I bought it. Centered it in the lift, up it went, changed the oil. Oil was from 11/17 and had ~4800 miles on it - and looked, smelled and felt just fine. There's a distinctive feel to oil past its prime - this wasn't it. Put in 5W50 - it's summer after all and this car never sees 40F weather. Washed the thing... there are only two problems that I'll tackle in another thread. 1) AC needs charging. I have all the equiment and 30 lbs of R-134 (from Dupont... sorry, Chemours). That's next on the list 2) The coolant was VIOLENTLY down. As in, it took three quarts of distilled water to bring it back to level ... but there were no stains anywhere, there was no mix ... any idea where it might have gone? I shall change the coolant anyways, the car is on the factory fill from 09/2004 and the additive package is a remote memory by now, but I'd like to understand WHERE it's going. Oh yeah, also: tires that have been sitting for six+ years and were down to 15 PSI may cause you to experience some SLIGHT VIBRATIONS for the first 10 miles of driving. For 'did I forget I had snow chains on' values of slight. Anyways - one more thing to love about this car. My S54 powered M3 was a LOT more difficult to resurrect after a shorter stay... but that's another story for another forum.

Will a the sport exhaust off 14-14’ 958 GTS bolt straight onto 2011 958 S? Also will the valves be open full time if no lines installed for the on off switch?

Sound absorber - so if you want to be able have a conversation while you drive I would leave it in place.

Lost Radio Codes DO NOT START A NEW TOPIC FOR A LOST RADIO CODE. DO NOT EMAIL ADMINS. Please read the Lost Radio Code FAQ FIRST before posting - then post in the one thread.

Turns out it's a 'Butyl Plate'. A butyl plate on an engine cover (or a car hood) is a sound-dampening pad made from synthetic rubber and often backed with aluminum foil. Its primary job is to act as a vibration damper and noise barrier to make the cabin quieter. Learn something new every day... now... to remove it or not..!!??

Could I get a Radio code for my 2001 Boxster radio serial number X5033316 Thank you

As per the title... what's it for? I'm not looking for 'guesses'... i want somebody, if there is anybody, to tell me FACTUALLY the reason for it..? I'm thinking about cutting it out, to get some more engine sound...

Porsche dropped that part in 2008 so it might be best to find one at a salvage yard. Sorry.

9

Which line exactly?

1998 986. The hp hose connection at the power steering pump continues to leak. I have tried sealing with teflon tape and pipe joint compound. I'm not sure how much torque to put on the nut. Any ideas?

Thanks for sharing this. Is there a wiring diagram to check the wiring and pin connections? I am assuming I will be checking the MAF pins and some points in the fuse box.

I'm going to remove and clean the injectors I think

Could be a bad MAF (or wrong MAF) or a bad connection. Check the wiring and pin connections also.

So, after Loren, pointed it out. I reconnected my Durametric today and it did pop up two codes - P0120: porsche fault code 115: MAF below limit & P0107: porsche fault code 229: something about Ambient Pressure Sensor Looked them up and P0107 pointed to pressure in the intake manifold - checked the reading for ambient pressure sensor and it was within range at 1005 hPa (1.005 bar). Started the car and it did not change at all, even when RPM goes up to 3000. Is that normal? I deleted this code and drove around a bit (~4 miles) and rechecked the code did not come back. Measured the readings for Mass Airflow and Hot Film MAF and they are both in the range ~19 kg/h. Still disconnected the MAF and drove and it is little rough when idling but very smooth pickup from stop and NO STALLING". Then, connected the MAF sensor, the pickup is relatively jerky, but did not stall. MAF voltage is 1.2V at <1000RPM and ~3V at 3000 RPM Does it point to faulty MAF?

Also, interestingly, if I just lift my foot off brake and let it roll, before accelerating - it works every time - no stalling.

I bought this car in 2018 with ~30k miles. NO water intrusion since then. If it was there earlier I can't say. Having said that that is quite a few miles without that issue. Still I am curious as to what makes you ask that question. Are you thinking some electronics under the driver seat? Also, I am new to Durametric, and have only run the general scan for faults. Not sure if there is way to scan for individual components (not that I would know which component(s) to scan for in this case)

Are you sure Durametric does not show any pending fault codes? Have you had any water intrusion? Wet carpets? etc.

Hello there, I am new to this forum and may not be listing all the necessary information, so please let me know what other information is necessary to troubleshoot this issue. My 2000 C2 stalls when gassing from stop (esp embarrassing at traffic lights), it has 69K miles on it and I have tried to troubleshoot and replaced several parts but not able to pin-point the source of this issue. Happens to it when it is hot (>180 deg) or cold. It seems to have started after the fuel pump change. The following parts have been changed so far (within last 500 miles); - New fuel pump and fuel filter - New fuel pressure regulator - New MAF - New Throttle body Durametric (Enthusiast version) does not show any error codes. Any thoughts, much appreciated.

Try 9432