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  1. Past hour
  2. 1999 996 c2 6 speed, 105k on chassis, about 70k on engine. I don’t know if helpful, but after replacing the engine (bought w blown engine), I had a stall problem when steadily but not aggressively accelerating on the highway, the engine would die, I could coast with clutch in, then restart by reengaging. I am told throwing all sorts of unexplainable codes. Was two problems, bad crank sensor, and ultimately a frayed shorting wiring harness that after replacing with one off a different engine, cured the problem. PO of replacement engine routed harness incorrectly over top of engine w/o clamps, it frayed and would short enough to drop voltage, wreaking havoc. At least, this was how explained to me, and I have the frayed and burned old harness.
  3. Today
  4. I have read about every bit of information about this p1025 code I’m fighting with. i have a 2009 cayenne s. 81,000 miles it all started with a 1026,1025 and all cylinders mistfiring. Rough and long crank times while cold. Tell tale signs of a bad HPFP. I replaced that pump and did the coils and plugs and CPS at the same time. Cleaned the throttle body and Mass airflow sensors. All the codes cleared except the 1025. Car start right up cold. Does do a little idol surging but seems to settle down after a couple mins. Car seems to drive fine. The only little issue is on the highway at 2100rpm the engine may hiccup every so often. I haven’t done the fuel pumps or filter yet. Was hoping someone had some ideas. I didn’t wanna be another guy that replaced his HPFP to have it be something else. I have also done the throttle body reset. Thanks
  5. Hi all, I'm looking to replace my two front tires on my 04 955 S (295/30 R22 Pirelli Scorpion) with the same. What questions should I ask the shop(Not porsche Center) before letting them switch out the tires for the replacement, I.e Wheel alignment specifications etc. Also, when th vehicle is lifted off the ground, should the air suspension be in "workshop mode" or should the vehicle be raised to the highest setting? My indie Mech says the latter which is contrary to what I've read in forums and manual. Thanks Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  6. Hi topmech0, How you solve this faults? do you replaced PASM module like Koenbro did? I got one customer's car that same symptom like you.
  7. Anyone have a torque value for the dog bone support bracket bolts. one located behind head lamp one below coolant over flow tank thanks
  8. Yesterday
  9. I recently was reading the engine repair section of my manual and noticed the oil baffle (item 22 in the. Attachment) in the cylinder head is only used in bank 1 (left side) head. Anybody know the reason for this? Possibly related to the fact that the IMS is on the bank 2 (right) side?? I’m trying to remember, but reasonably certain my engine has one in the bank 2 head also. Wondering what issues this may cause.
  10. Check out ecudoctors.com too.
  11. Yeah, it's quite likely the board (and even the transistor) have been damaged. You may want to check with mastermodule.com to see if they repair the DME. They should be capable and that will be the cheapest option. If you get a used DME, you don't know its condition also you need to bring it to a shop to reprogram it with the immobilizer.
  12. OK got 12v at the switch and continuity between pin 25 on DME plug and connector so I assume a bad DME. I also opened up the DME and there was continuity between pin 25 and the middle leg of replaced transistor (not sure what that tells me)Should I bother jumping the wire from bank 1 to bank 2 to see if the codes change (seems moot) or buy a used DME? I did mention earlier that when I pulled the old transistor I pulled the pc board eyelets out with it but got them back in ...….wondering if I fried the board. Not sure how to proceed Any ideas? thanks v
  13. For the +12v wire, just touch it with the red probe of the multimeter. Touch the black probe on any ground point. Make sure key is ON engine is OFF.
  14. I had a similar problem, but with the right-hand directional light. I thought I've got this licked, just replace the bulb and I'm good to go. Nah... Finally replaced the plastic mounting plate. Pretty pricey for a piece of plastic. Seating that assembly for me is trial and error, then it happens, it seats... I've read all the how to's... In fact while on the Pelican web site tutorial on installing the light assembly they had the rotation of the 5mm socket the wrong way. I've taken a magic marker and labeled the on/off rotation on the inner steel panel.
  15. Couple of ideas here Drivers Headlights flickering. acting weird on me. Need help - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - Drivers Headlights flickering. acting weird on me. Need help - Hi guys, I was wondering if someone on here has had the same thing happen to them. Several months back i noticed that sometimes my drivers HL...
  16. Will do. I have checked voltage and the MAF signal. All appears normal. If I recall my G/s on the Maf at idle was within spec as well. I did install a factory air filter box. This made any stalling issues I had go away completely. With the K&N installed, I did not have any additional codes, but after going WOT, or sustained highway driving (cruising around 3-4K) for 15+ mins, if I put the clutch in the car would stall. I could keep it alive with a couple blips of the throttle, but sometimes even this would be difficult. Like an idle was non existent. It also didn't always start right back up great. It would take time for it to settle back out, assisting with some throttle. That problem seems to be resolved. This is where the IACV, TPS, throttle body cleaning, thorough vaccuum leak searches came in. All seemed to help, but not resolve the issue completely until the K&N was removed. I did the Fister Mod. Thanks guys!
  17. So my 2000 996 C4 started to have issues with driver side xenon headlight turning off and in at bumps and when it did not turn back on I just had to turn them off and back on via headlight switch. Also I could have car running with headlights on at a stop light and randomly one if the headlights would flicker quickly off and on. So after some research I discovered that the headlight was not seated correctly because the headlight bracket was cracked where the connector receptacle is heald in place. here is what I replaced both driver & passenger: headlight brackets headlight ignitors (not ballasts) d2s bulbs After all this it’s still doing the same things... any ideas??
  18. I don't think I get it...the hood looks like it is already out of the hood latch and sprung up. Then you move the little red lever that is visible with your finger to the right to open the hood. Am I missing something?
  19. Oh...ok....got it ,I thought it was all coming all out of the DME plug. For the +12v I will have to go ground to the body to check? Cause I guess the ground coming from DME only goes to ground when over 2000 RPM's ....right?
  20. Just because you have fuel pressure at the rails doesn't mean you are getting full fuel flow. A 99 C2 has a fuel filter and at your mileage it should have been replaced already. Also agree on the CPS. Both of these issues will not throw a CEL code because they are not emission related faults. Might also consider the fuel pressure regulator. If it is weak or stuck it will bleed off pressure when the engine is hot.
  21. You mentioned two other things in your first post. The K&N air filter removal. Did you get a stock air filter box? What type of custom muffler bypass? Fister or Gundo, or something else entirely.
  22. I believe the M14, or M something is something Pelican parts added so you can ignore those. Good call checking for the correct MAF. Also check the MAF signal should be ~1.1v with key ON engine OFF and about ~1.3v at warm idle.
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