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  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks Lewis, That explains the cut off in first...really wondered about that. The drop off during the run up in second and third is what I would really like to change, as you say it should be climbing not falling off. I will try short shifting and see if I can hold the boost that way. Combined with the speed recordings, I wonder which will produce the faster 0-60, boost or rpm? I still have to get used to the transmission though – this is literally the first automatic I’ve owned in my life – I still instinctively go for the clutch, then get all messed up and over rev. I also didn’t know at first that if you over rev in manual with the PCM off it lets you go really high...I hit like 8000. But I will play around with it. I was also trying to slip the torque converter, holding the brakes until at least 3000 but it doesn’t seem to work too well. I have some recordings of me blowing shifts...they are kind of amusing. I’m feeling this is a map issue rather than a leak these days. Wg actuators are OK, one squeaks a bit but works fine, the same as the other side anyways. Although maybe they are taking too long to close, but if that is the case I’m boned, because they are basically inaccessible. The MAP sensors are clean, as with the boost sensor etc. It’s like the map they put in is as crappy as the other work this tuning shop did to the car. But I don’t want to spend +1000$ on a new map if it is the same as what I have. It would be interesting to see your E81 curves – using the VAG-COM you just record from the instrument controller, channels 1 and 51. I wish I could get anywhere near the wastegates; I could at least douse them in WD40. And I am still tempted to spray something inside the actuators...and I want to add a resistor to the boost sensor and ramp down what is reported to the ECU. I'm just full of bad ideas!
  3. Today
  4. I think he is referring to the fan blower regulator which controls Fan speed. The temp regulator statement was directed at my post above for my AC compressor not kicking in and sometimes kicking out.
  5. Try 8735
  6. I had this happen intermittently. Door would lock sometimes, sometimes it wouldnt. Then, on the other rear door, the handle would not work to release the lock. Replaced both lock actuators and have been fine since. Takes a couple hours on the first door, second door was much easier once you get the hang of it. Remove door card, disconnect cable from exterior door handle, remove all the screws on the door skin, remove the big triple square bolts from the left and right side of doors, and then the inner door frame/skin slides out from the body panel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-Cayenne-Turbo-Porsche-955-L-REAR-DOOR-Lock-Latch-ACTUATOR-7L0839015C-160-149-/272438447102?hash=item3f6e98cbfe:g:8TgAAOSwXeJYHSNi&vxp=mtr
  7. Hi, I'm new to renntech I have a 2001 Boxster, dead battery. CR220 Becker 1 Model: BE 4462 Ser# 15087811 Please help, I need the radio code. Thanks
  8. Yesterday
  9. The dash removal actually doesn't look too bad from the manual. Lots of trim bits to pop off which may prove nasty with 14 year old plastics. Not sure if I can link to this here? If not, mods please delete. Pages 9611 - 9620 http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/cayenne_(9pa)/v6-3.2l/instrument_panel_gauges_and_warning_indicators/dashboard/instrument_panel/component_information/service_and_repair/removing_and_installing_dashboard_cover_on_the_drivers_side/page_9611/
  10. Thanks JFP .. this maybe something that is out of my abilities. I will have to take it back to the dealer for this ...
  11. okay, I'm reading you loud and clear on this . Off to Advanced auto tomorrow for some CFC MAF sensor spray cleaner. I have a cheapie OBD scanner that doesn't read MAF values so I have really nothing to go by except for symptoms (in this case relatively low idle). Sure it will read long term / Short term trims , Freeze frame data and generic codes but nothing heavy duty ie: MAF readings (ya get what you pay for y'know ?) I really didn't want to invest in a costly scanner but for accurate information in pinning down the nature of issues that arise, I think it would be a wise choice. One more question though, what type of scanner would you advise for <
  12. I am not even remotely suggesting a new MAF, I'm suggesting that experience has shown that a dirty MAF, or one with resistance in the circuit can result in idle issues that do not throw codes, Futher, I am suggesting that you do more diagnostics, such as reading the MAF values vs. specs, and looking at the MAF sensor to see if it is simply dirty. Far too many people simply throw expensive parts at a vehicle without really knowing what it needs...........
  13. I have read many posts regarding low idles on this MY where installation of a new MAF sensor didn't rectify the situation. Those MAF's cost a good penny also. I just wanted to see if there were alternatives to replacing the MAF and hoping for a higher idle. Perhaps a new oil filler cap and cleaning of the IAC valve contact. I would just be severely po'd if I installed a new MAF and no go on the idle.
  14. Thank You! That did the trick. If only I had read your posting an hour ago, it would have saved me all that time. I tried the same thing from the driver's side with no luck. After reading your posting, I grabbed a stepping stool (to avoid dinging the trunk) and tug it throttle in, and voila. Almost seems way to easy. I ran my finger around the tube to make sure. Thank you again, your posting saved my day.
  15. @ericstaup, which temp regulator did you replace? I'm having the same issue.
  16. Hi Mike. Not a turbo guru but I will add my pennies worth. 1. The turbo comes in at 2500 this is same as mine. Don't forget I have the E81 kit for 500bhp and 0.8bar + boost if the gauge is to be believed. 2. Boost is lower in first gear yes, mine is the same, it's done to protect the engine and drive train I think. I notice the redline is hit quickly in first gear when rpm flies from 4000 to redline, it's almost so quick you bounce the limiter if in manual with TC off (it won't auto shift). 3. Second gear will and should deliver peak boost from 3000k to gear change rpm. Next gear should also go to peak boost assuming full throttle. 4. If you short shift I can hold mine pegged at max boost it won't drop and build up like if you hit the shift point. Try that on a run be interesting to see if you system will hold the peak boost?? 5. Your first graph looks quite good boost peaks and drops at gear change as expected in relation to rpm. Second graph looks wrong where has the boost gone after the gear change ? This is electronic issue (boost map requested this) or a leak or the wastegate is stuck partially open after the shift? Maybe why you don't build boost as high as one would expect from a remapped ctt ? 0.65-0.7 is standard boost pressure not modified. 6. Have you cleaned the map sensor ? Have you tested the wastegate actuators? They should hold pressure and open in Tandem with 10psi or slightly less. If this isn't spot on with no leaks and they don't open properly and they stick then your boost will never be correct.
  17. Hi people, please can you have a listen to the video attached. This is my 1998 c2, i spent £4.5k on an engine rebuild after the ims started to break up (caught in time luckily), then a couple of months later it starts making this noise when starting from cold. In the video it hasn't been started for 3 days and as you can hear the noise goes away after less than a minute. The indy has told me it's early piston slap and will cost about £6k to put right! It didn't do it before and i wonder if they've put different oil in it or something. Any ideas please? Thank you.
  18. P0452 indicates a short to ground in the system, which may be an electrical issue outside the tanks sensor itself.
  19. The small pipe goes to the rigid metal turbo vent pipes located at the rear of the engine. Mine are leaking oily mess but when it tested it I could get anything to pass so I just left it alone as it a total b * tch to fix. If the vent system from the turbo fails it might be able to become pressurised maybe this is the purpose for the relief valve. Details and pictures are hard to find on the turbo vents I have searched a lot and found jack all.
  20. That does not mean anything. You need to take a look at your MAF, looking for dirt build up. If it is there, you need to use a correct MAF cleaner to remove it as you cannot touch the sensor itself. Another alternative would be to check your MAF values using a Porsche specific scan tool.
  21. I have the P0452 CEL message on my 1999 C2 and replaced the tank pressure sensor. The sensor is located where Tool Pants pointed ... under the battery tray. It is a straight forward replacement. I swapped it out within 1/2 hr. The problem is it didn't fix the CEL problem and I'm stumped what else could be the problem. Any suggestions on what else could be causing the error? The car still drives beautifully, no hesitation, whatsoever ...
  22. But I'm not getting any fault codes.
  23. Would appreciate feedback on the correct procedure for removing the needle from the shaft. I've tried the 2 procedures in this thread with no success. Perhaps I'm interpreting the directions too literally but input from anyone who has been able to successfully remove them would be greatly appreciated! Otherwise, great write up and everything has come off with ease up until this point.
  24. All I can add is mine resets the comfort settings maybe once a month, keeps doing so for a few days then stops. Once however I went to start it and nothing, no crank. Turned it to the off position, then on and still nothing. Took the key out and tried again and it started. Freaked me out. But when I was reading about it it seems there were bugs in the 2004 code, and I just chocked it up to that. We still live in fear of the immobilizer however!
  25. Year of the car is always useful......
  26. No picture attached. Quite often, erratic idle issues are MAF related, a dirty sensor or corrosion at the electrical connectors being a common fault.
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