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All Activity

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  1. Past hour
  2. Today
  3. Fixed. Bad ballast. Finally got this car registered and am driving it. For a $6700 Porsche (plus $6k in new parts) this thing is awesome fun. Next issues are a/c, convertible top and a few dents.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Man you have to change D2S xenon bulb (low beam). High beam is regular bulb +D2S xenon. Low beam only xenon bulb is on. Thrre is a flap in xenon projector light that switch low and high beam. But when high beam is running also regular bulb is supporting. Low - D2S High - D2S + H11 or so
  6. Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 8719
  7. Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Hi Loren Thanks for the FAQ pointer. model is CR22 type: 4367 serial no: x5017809 many thanks.
  8. Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Wow, excellent, that worked first try. Thank you so much!
  9. Time Left: 1 day and 4 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Helping a buddy sell his rims:These are Vossen Wheels VFS620x8.5 ET4420x11 ET35305/25/20245/30/20Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 tires with plenty of meat.These came mounted on a 997TT and he went back to stock 19s.These will fit 997s and 996s with wide body and also 991s.May fit newer Boxters/Caymens not sure about 986's.Includes TPSPrefer local pickup in Northern New Jersey.I have more detailed pictures if needed.call or txt 646-543-6O63 or PM but I don't check PM daily.

    $1,800.00

  10. Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 2306
  11. Last week
  12. Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Hi, I appreciate any help with this. I too just replaced my battery and never got the original info with my purchase. Thanks. Model: CR-210 Type: R1996 Serial: T5000706 Cheers!
  13. If the seals for the crankcase are leaking would I see oil leaks? This engine uses almost no oil, about one quart per 6000 miles.
  14. Can't remember ever going into the door Electrica module.
  15. Labor rates vary with geography, so you will have to check them locally. Figure on 4-6 hours, plus parts. A full clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing) should retail in the $400-500, assuming your dual mass flywheel is still good. If it isn't, add $1K. You should update the RMS while doing this, and it is also a great opportunity to retrofit the IMS while it is apart.
  16. I installed the GT3 ducts in my 06 C2S. They are similar in size but a different shape that channels the air more directly. My car didn't have ducts in the rear so I installed the GT3 ducts there as well. The GT2 Ducts are designed to channel even more airflow but they are expensive and require modification to work. GT3 Front Ducts: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PKGT3FRS.html Rear Ducts: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PK997RBDS.html GT2 Ducts: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99634111790AND99634111890.html
  17. It's hard to see, but the scale is on the bottom left, 10.0V per major division - CH1 / 5.2V is just the trigger voltage for the scope (the small arrow). I still don't like digital oscilloscopes… Interesting link - I wondered about this about the N75 as well, thanks. Hah! True enough. So I did clean it and made sure everything was tight and lines were in their proper place with no stress on them, and the errors have gone away for several hours of driving now. Even the Readiness is back to normal. There is still a much fainter (but still present) smell of oil every now and then, so I'm thinking I just improved things enough not to trigger a code, but there is still some leak problem. So I might go ahead and get the valve and see if that helps things. The only other candidates I have left is the AOS diaphragm not functioning correctly, but I have already broke two of the tabs on the cover and I've tried but can't get it off without stressing the remaining tabs so much I am sure they are going to break. A heat gun would help, but I don't want to melt the membrane and then have to wait for another one from Russia. But if you miss working endlessly on your Cayenne, I also have to take the passenger door apart again because the replacement window cables ate themselves and now it needs to be fixed again. And I just realized that my drivers door open/closed micro switch sensor needs fixing. I never cared that the light didn't come on when I opened the door, but now I am realizing that the key weirdness's I've always had could be due to it thinking the driver's door hasn't been opened. Plus there is the fuel pump that doesn't turn on when I open it and slow starting…its all so connected. Speaking of which did your VAGCOM ever access the door electrics controller? I can't make a CAN connection to it for some reason. Was that a controller you had access to?
  18. Good. I think it's not related to the MAF sensor then. It would be nice if the shop can perform a smoke test to check for intake air leak and crankcase air leak. Sticky lifter(s) are entirely possible but so are sticky injector(s).
  19. Drove with the MAF unplugged all the way home ~45 minutes. No noticeable difference in idle after the drive. The comment from Porschetech3 on the crankcase vacuum being too low has me wondering about the seals you mentioned or anything else that would cause reduced vacuum in the crankcase. Other than the seals you mentioned, should I check anything else when I have it on the lift for the oil change? Also, my independent Porsche shop expressed a concern about lifters sticking causing this issue. Any thoughts on that?
  20. I have a 2003 996 cab with 114k miles. The clutch has begun to slip if I drive with any gusto. I can granny it around without slippage. Am I looking at a clutch replacement? If so, any estimates on total cost? I can turn a wrench but no way do I have the time or skill to tackle something of this magnitude. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thank you. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
  21. Ok will try and find the number first, i looked on ebay and ya theres a lot of diff ones what did yours cost
  22. Where are you reading 13.7v from? I see 5.2v stated as ch1. Looks normal for PWM. https://www.tlxtech.com/understanding-solenoids/theory-operation/pwm-solenoid-theory The voltage is on/off, hence 0v up to ??v is seen. So this shows your valve is open about 70%. I don't think this proves the valve is mechanically working correctly. But electrically it is looking normal. Bit of carb cleaner squirted in the open end whilst it's operating might free up a potential gummy blockage? Or from the back side pipe which means some removal required. Or spend 100 bucks on a new purge valve to find out if you wasted 100 bucks. Oh you should test the valve when the code is present and whilst it's on test reset the code and see what happens ! Init.
  23. The DME will need to be reprogrammed for the e-throttle. Only a Porsche PST2 or PIWIS can do this (to my knowledge).
  24. That is pretty much correct, the exact location varies a bit by model and equipment. And no, a bad pump won't necessarily loose fluid. You carpets should pull right up once the edge trim is removed.
  25. Yikes. Thanks for the reply JFP. I've found some used pumps, but yes seems like hassle if that's what is failed. My understanding is the ABS hydraulic unit is located on the passenger side of the vehicle, near the windshield behind the coolant overflow. Is that accurate? Would a failing ABS hydraulic pump be a cause for loss in brake fluid? Also, I'm going to check the PSM wires under the passenger carpet - what is the best way to pull the carpet back? I'm hoping not to have to cut the carpet.
  26. No, it is not the brake booster. ABS/PSM systems have their own hydraulic pump in the system, which is also one expensive bear, around $2K at retail (item #1):
  27. Same ECU. Swapping over all the items off the old engine, onto the new engine. The ECU is staying in the car with the same wiring harness. The wiring harness on the engine will be swapped over, as will all the sensors and the throttle body. I don't believe the ECU will be able to tell the difference in engines. Both are 3.4L, same sensors, and same wiring harness. Am I missing something?
  28. Ok, another update. Durametric has been working on a fix for the issue connecting to the PSM and they have a path release. I was able to get the fault code, 1276 Hydraulic Pump. Is this referring to the brake booster? I have a brake fluid leak and can smell fluid from the area where the master cylinder/reservoir is, but the brake pedal does not drop to the floor. The fluid leaks only when I use the car, not if it's sitting a while, so I suspect the loss is driven by pressure. There is no visible sign of fluid on the ground or at the calipers. Thoughts?
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