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  3. All good questions. Fuel is a couple months old, but good. I did all the basics as preventive maintenance. New plugs, updated coil packs, and checked fuel pressure. The car is a 2002, so it runs a returnless fuel system and E-gas. The throttle is opening and the proper adaptation is done every time I disconnect the battery. I've verified the TPS with Durametric. I've also replaced the pre cat O2s. I also replaced the chain tensioners, properly locking the cams and crank, nothing moved or slipped. Verified deviation on durametric. I even replaced the AOS for good measure. All maintenance work was done before attempting to start it for the first time. I've retraced my steps many times to check my work. I'm at a loss. When it runs from cold start for those first 15 sec it does sound great. From cold, it starts in open loop, its seem that when it goes to closed loop it falls apart. Another interesting fact, if I spray MAF clean at the intake filter, just one tiny spray, the car smooths out and runs fine for another 10-15 sec. It definitly runs smooth way longer that it would take to burn off the MAF cleaner. I've done some stand-alone tuning in my past, mostly on speed density systems, but it seems that the MAF needs to be scaled. Just weird...
  4. I'm going to ask some stupid your original post you said " I picked up a 996 a few months back, not running. It will start and runs for 10-15 seconds and sounds perfect, after that the idle drops and it stumbles around 500-600 RPM until it eventually stalls." You suspect that the MAF is responsible and we have been running down that rabbit hole. These things make an engine run - fuel, air and spark. You also said it is running "pig rich". I am wondering if it is something more fuel related than air related. Does the car have fresh gas in it? Has the fuel filter been replaced? What about the fuel pressure regulator? Have you cleaned the Idle Control Valve? When was the last time the plugs were pulled and checked? How are the coil packs looking? You also said it does not rev but the throttle plate is moving. Have you checked the throttle position sensor and if it is plugged in correctly? It sure seems a strange set of conditions. I would expand your search to some other things. Just throwing some other things to check into the mix, and just trying to help. Once you get your DME back, use the Durametic and go to Actual Valves and see if the Throttle Position sensor is returning values. Is it throwing any codes at all? A bad TPS can wreak havoc on idle and running. I sure wish Ahsai would weigh in again...he is far more knowledgeable than I am.
  5. I bought a new hpfp, installed it myself and all ok now.
  6. Schnell, I've ran the car with the MAF unplugged and it runs in a similar fashion, maybe slightly worse. With the MAF unplugged the DME falls back on known good MAF values. I do not think those values are manipulated with the custom tune, so with larger injectors and larger MAF housing, the car no longer has a known good value to fall back on. This is why I had it flashed back to stock, and used the stock housing, granted it still had larger in injectors, but still behaved the same way with the MAF unplugged. Crude I know, but the injectors are a PIA to replace. DBJoe996, I stopped in and saw the tuner Tuesday to drop off the DME. He has more work that he can handle at the moment. He offered to take it, but pointed the the other cars that have been sitting... Testing the MAF IAT, I have 3 of them now, the all test 1.8K ohms at 26 deg C. Waiting on the DME to test voltages. I've also smoke tested the engine for vacuum leaks, only 1 small one from the brake booster O ring, it was replaced. I'll keep you posted. Thank you for the advice.
  7. When doing my AOS replacement I dropped one of the manifold bolts. Took 2 days to find it. Lots of light, cell phone and a selfie stick to run it all the way back there to take videos of everything. Found it underneath the fuel rail. Good luck!
  8. I had done same thing, I didn't have a bore scope so took my cell phone plus add as must light as possible and set it to burst shooting and just moved it around as best you can and shoot, after reviewing the shots and kept on trying till I located it then using a magnet on a end of a speedo cable I was able to retrieve it.
  9. Here in uae they have a Mickley mouse car test which takes about 5 mins, unfortunately they will notice the boot of the ball joints on both items are split and will flag this as a fail. If the car was a cut and shut, crabbing down the road or total rotten through the chassis but with a nice bondo covering and rattle can spray attack, it would pass just fine lol. Priced up the lower arm, tie rod end and 4 new bolts 650dhs about 150 dollars. So looks like I'm spending again. ........
  10. Sanity check. Is the slot of the exhaust cam end on the non scavenge pump side vertical? Be very careful before you remove the cam cover so you won't disturb timing. To remove the a/c compressor, there's a third bolt at the back that is very hard to get to. You need to use a long wobble extension (or a flex socket) through the opening between the intake manifold #cyl4&5 (after removing the engine comparment temp sensor sitting there). It will help if you remove the throttle body. Use an inspection mirror to check that bolt first so you can feel where it is. This third bolt slides up and you can slide out the compressor. The bolt is captured by a refridgerant line so it can't be removed from the compressor.
  11. Just got a used 06 cayenne s. Air was great for the first week. Suddenly it doesn't work. Got Freon recharged, worked for a few days. Now it's blowing cold at startup first thing oon the morning for about 20 minutes then back to blowing warm air. Any suggestions for my husband? He's checked about everything he can think of.
  12. There is still the vacuum issue. But you would have to use a smoke machine because of the flashing CEL You could try disconnecting the MAF. If that helps the rough running try the voltage and resistance test for the MAF. I am trying to exhaust the list of easier items for you. " Checked the cam timing and both banks are on the mark aligned with the timing notches while flywheel at TDC. " I presume you mean you confirmed the exhaust cam is in the correct position. What about the Inlet cam notch ? Did you work on any area of the engine before this rough running happened ? AOS for example.
  13. Checked the cam timing and both banks are on the mark aligned with the timing notches while flywheel at TDC. Plugs: No oil, no foul firing signs, looks they are in good shape (approx. 20K miles on them) Coils: Boots bone dry, clean, elastic and overall look great. Resistance measures correct and consistent among all including one pack from a cyl that did not trigger a code for good measure.
  14. Don't start the engine find the bolts first. Do you have a small mirror and some good lighting? They could have fallen in between some cover around the heads or something like that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I'm done for today but i'm pretty sure I've removed all the bolts (last picture showed 2 still in the cover). My count is 23 bolts total (not counting the scavenge pump bolts). I'll check again in the morning to see if I've missed any. I will take care using the pry points, thanks. Can you provide a picture to illustrate the tensioner exact location and how to access it? Also, what tool is needed to remove it? Will I need to re-time the cams if nothing is moved? again, I'm only replacing the bank 2 VarioCam solenoid. Referring back to my latest pictures (from today). Besides the tensioner, is there anything else needed before removing the cover? Any lock or hold down for the cam at the front of the engine? Does the "cam hold down tool" at the rear of the engine look it's installed correctly? I just want to be sure before pulling the cover. Thanks everyone for all your help and advice.
  16. I dropped two bolts(hex bolts 6,0 x16) that connect a vaccuum tub and bracket to the upper left intake plenum. They banged around but didn't fall onto the ground. I looked everywhere inside the engine and can't find them. Removed the serpantine belt during the search to locate the bolts. I used a magnetic grabber in all the nooks and cranny but still can't find either one. And no, they aren't under the car. Has this happened to anyone else before? Is there a secret compartment somewhere? Will I do any damage if I run the car? Any advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  17. Timing tool. With the engine in place you can't use the big timing tool.Pity because it works great out of the car ! We can tell you how to time the cams to the engine at TDC when you are ready. You lock the crankshaft at TDC for cyl 1 or 4 (depending on the Bank you are working on), hold down both cams with the saddles and turn the cams using a 22m wrench on the camshaft - very very carefully. If you are very careful in allocating the cams little or no adjustment will be necessary.I use assembly lube on the saddles.
  18. First make sure you got all the bolts from the cam cover. Some are rather concealed.It may be hard to dislodge the cover. Find the pry points and be very careful not to break off a tab on the edge of the cam cover. Bank 2 Tensioner for the IMS to Ex Cam chain is under the a/c compressor.It acts on a huge 'paddle' to tension the long chain Do not confuse this(like Pelican do) with the Variocam actuator -that they also call a tensioner. That Variocam unit sits between the 2 cams .The real Tensioner is under the a/c compressor. That is why we never call the Variocam actuator a tensioner.The short cam to cam chain is only for transmitting motion from the exh cam sprocket to the Inlet cam.This is the one with the colored(sometimes) links that has the tricky spacing between divots on the sprockets of the Exh and Inlet cams.
  19. There is not a lot of room between the scavenge pump and chassis (assuming you adjust timing from the front of the engine)... What exactly does the timing tool look like? Is it in my kit? The spark plug tubes are now removed, as well as the scavenge pump and O-ring along with all the cam cover bolts. The oil pressure sensor is disconnected and the cap to the solenoid is removed. I think It's ready to come off... Here is where I'm going to sound stupid.... Going back to the tensioner. The link i've been reading talked about bank 1 cam tensioner needing to be removed but in this thread an IMS tensioner was mentioned? Now I'm confused. If I need to remove a tensioner, where exactly is it? and how do I remove it (what tool is needed)?
  20. As long as it's pointing away from the crank, I don't think it matters much if it's off a bit (2:45 vs 3). Just curious is there enough space to fit the timing tool? Also suggest the title should be changed to bank 2 for clarity. Maybe the MODs can help if you can't change it?
  21. The title of this thread is somewhat misleading as the error message reported was bank 1 but it's incorrect. The problem is actually the bank 2 VarioCam solenoid. This is a 996 but I'm not sure that matters much. I just want to be sure I've got things in the correct position before I open the cover. I'm with you on the hour hand position, I just got concerned when you brought up a 2.45 position as mine was clearly at 3 or maybe even 3.15 position. So just to be clear, in every instance, I'm only talking about (and all my pictures have been of) bank 2. So is my cam in the correct position? Am I safe to proceed?
  22. All my comments relate to Bank 1 on the M96 Boxster engine. The 3 o'clock descriptors relate to the hour hand of an imaginary clock face when facing the notched end of the inlet cam.
  23. Ok, I will remove bank 2 tensioner before I proceeding. Please confirm my intake cam on bank 2 is in the correct position. It looks like mine is at the "3.00" or "3.15" position. Is this correct? What does this mean if it's off a bit? The only known issue with this engine is the bank 2 VarioCam solenoid that I'm trying to replace. There are no other issues.
  24. If you have any doubts about the Lifters 'ticking' , now is the time to remove/check/replace and consider trying to measure for wear in the bores of the lifter carrier.Yes I am paranoid because this is a very time consuming job to do - twice or 3 times ! Lifters have dropped in price now that generic replacements have been identified.
  25. I agree the bank 2 tensioner (below the a/c compressor) should be removed.
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