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  1. Past hour
  2. Yep great summary this is. Pretty much details my trouble shooting journey. I have new mafs and have to admit it made absolutely no difference except long term I could rule out a failure. My fuel trims are always bang on LT +- 1-2%, ST +-3% accumulated less than 6%. The bank 2 sensor precat is the only thing left which is suspect given its slow reaction to snap throttle compared to the new bank 1 sensor. Blocked or partially blocked injectors or electrically failing due to heat soak is something I considered! Any thoughts?
  3. Today
  4. I was able to confirm that the Cayenne (958) 8-speed auto/Tip box is made by Aisin in Japan. I wonder if the OE fluid supplier is a European or Japanese company? My search continues
  5. Loren, I don't know how you get these or how you have time to do all of these requests, but THANKS!! it worked immediately. Mark
  6. Yesterday
  7. I remember reading your posts whilst you were sorting those issues. I didn't recall reading that it was ultimately solved by replacing the purge valve -- but agree that it now makes sense -- and you're right, a bad purge valve can cause a weird vibration at certain speeds/loads (mine did too, but the hard starting after fuel up was way more obvious). Unfortunately I don't think I'd figured out the importance of the purge valve at that time or I would have suggested it. Glad to hear you got it sorted. To my thinking, the general rough-running troubleshooting should probably go like this: 1) Scan and fix and obvious codes (with a Durametric or quality scanner that can read Porsche codes). 2) OBD2 data log the O2 sensors, long term fuel trims, and short term fuel trims, versus load and RPM. I use the Torque App on my phone with an add-in called "Realtime Charts" -- not super-high logging rates, but still helpful. Cheap, but somewhat time consuming. Can also be tricky to interpret. Can be a good baseline tool -- I keep the logs for comparisons later, including after making parts changes. Watch for LT fuel trims that are +/- more than 10% -- that usually means something is not right. The closer ST and LT trims are to zero the better (note that ST will move around more, whereas LT moves gradually). 3) Purge valve test / block the hose to the intake. Costs nothing. Takes 5 mins plus a test drive. A usual, but often overlooked suspect. 4) Fuel pump fuse test. Just to make sure you're main pump isn't flaky. Costs nothing. Takes 5 mins plus a test drive. 5) Camshaft solenoid test. Lewis's test in this thread were quite good. My sense is that you'd do this only if you were missing low-mid range power, but OK on top. Costs nothing. Takes 5 mins plus a test drive. 6) Smoke/pressure/vacuum test the intake. Can be time consuming and expensive, but is almost certainly worth it. Most of my running issues have been leak related. 7) Coils and Plugs: Check for cracks, measure resistance, and/or replace coils. Change plugs while you're in there, they are relatively cheap. Coils themselves are not cheap or quick, but an eventuality and not too terrible to DIY. 8) Primary O2 sensors: You may be able to see a difference between the responsiveness of the sensors on a OBD2 data log. If you're looking to save money, change the sensor that appears less responsive first. If a new sensor helps (and is confirmed working better by the OBD2 log) consider replacing the other one for good measure. The parts aren't too expensive, but I have heard that one of them is a PITA to get to. Buy only Porsche or BOSCH. 9) MAFs: I'm pretty sure the MAFs would throw an obvious CEL code, hence they would be the last thing I'd throw money at unless I'd done all the above troubleshooting and still had running issues. But if I had done the above trouble shooting and LT Fuel Trims that were way off (+/- 10) in any of the load ranges, then that would be my next guess. Buy only Porsche or BOSCH. Hope that helps someone (and particularly so Lewis, although I think he's already done most of these in this thread, with useful explanations how to do such).
  8. I love my PRG. Discreet, classy, and different. The colour also changes quite a bit with lighting and angle - it can look dark green and even almost turquoise depending on the light. Only downside is that as with most darker colours, it shows scratches and swirls. I had the car paint corrected last spring, and the paint now looks WET and DEEP.
  9. Thank You that worked!

  10. Well bummer -- I had my fingers crossed that you had a defective (new) purge valve. In any case, I'm happy to have contributed to the cause with a quick and simple troubleshoot (and potentially long-term fix) for the purge valve. I've appreciated your efforts to document your trouble shooting -- there's a lot of very useful information in this thread that covers the vast majority of the usual Cayenne suspects, as well as a few rare ones (such as the variocam and how to troubleshoot). A few more thoughts: 1) Definitely do the other wideband O2 -- I didn't realize your issues were part throttle only. At startup and full throttle, the engine runs open loop, so a bad O2 wont impact (or mess up) fueling for those operating conditions. That's my new primary suspect for your issues. 2) Have you tried running with one or both of your MAFs disconnected? I believe it will throw a code, but the ECM should be able to handle it with the MAP sensor -- I've not done this myself recently, but would be happy to test it if needed for comparison. It would be interesting to see if/how that changed your driveability issues. Any improvement would make me suspect one or both MAFs. I got a much better idle and low speed responsiveness when I changed the MAF on my 997 -- it had become oil fouled from the PO's use of an oiled air filter element. MAFs and O2s are the heart of the closed loop system, so once coils and air leaks have been ruled out, those are the next most suspect parts. 3) It's possible that the rubber hoses under the Y-pipe that have the check valves that go to the purge valve can be installed in such a way that they come into contact with the serpentine pulley -- Mine did and wore a hole in the rubber hose -- I've seen at least one other report of this happening on the forums. While I don't expect that this is your issue given the scrutiny that you've given all the hoses/plumbing, it's worth noting for posterity that the section of hose that wore in my case was between the check valve and the purge valve and hence would NOT have shown up on a smoke test. Nor would my trick of plugging the end of the hose help much, as the hole is in the middle of the run. As always, best wishes and good luck. Feels like you're close. It's always the last place you look....
  11. Try 6925
  12. I have lost radio code and after getting a new battery I need to put code in, any idea on code? Type 4462, Becker 1, Serial # 15006403, 24/99 Boxster 2002
  13. Brainz006 Thanks for the reply and sharing your experiences and tips. I do wonder sometimes if anybody reads these long post with what some might consider mumbo jumbo or just some guy stabbing in the dark for a solution. Lol. Well I was just finishing up installing the new coils and test driving when I got your reply. Try to keep this short ( yeah right) here goes: 1. Did the new coils Fix the stutter? No! 2. Did the coils make the power and rpm smoothness after the stutter has cleared at higher rpm better? Yes! (Not a complete waste of money then gladly and they tested very different with the multimeter old vs new coil) 3. Did disconnecting and plugging the purge valve pipe to engine as per suggestion work for me? No! (The purge valve was new last year and I think it works fine and no codes except when I unplugged it, but worth a try thanks). 4. Whilst doing the purge valve test I found the driver side intercooler outlet to plastic pipe before the Y pipe was loose and had some oily dirt covering it. Did tightening this Fix the stutter? No! (Feels even better at high rpm, the boost doesn't feel like its tapering off so much or just my imagination). The engine seems to love being thrashed, if I drive it like a animal it's lovely and flies really well. If I'm on over run down a slope to a set of traffics lights and coast to a stop it will idle Dip for sure and then after a short time at idle waiting for the light to change I pull away and its the worse stutter and hesitation as I build speed light boost comes in at light to medium or progressive throttle inputs. If I redline it then I doesn't have a chance to stutter as the rpm stays high. Brainz006 you mentioned o2 sensor precat (wide band lambda type o2 sensor in fact for us) which does make very good sense. The sensor is used for partial load and throttle demands, it goes closed loop at idle after you let off from heavy acceleration and over run to standstill. When cold the engine dotent stutter or idle Dip. I've already changed the passenger bank 1 pre cat sensor which was "lazy" and the other day I graphed the driver side bank 2 sensor doing the same thing! This b * tch is so close to being right its even more the frustrating for me. Bosch dealer here is strangely cheap so I may enquire about if they can get the sensor ordered in for me now as they could get anything before until March which now isn't far away. If this sensor isn't the final piece to this puzzle then I will stop looking and just drive it as it is. Well my wife will and she won't notice anything is wrong ......... Lol I'm having my Audi back.
  14. @Brainz006 Now it makes sense. I had a hesitation and strange running and vibration for month. Changed so many parts except the purge valve (which even showed a code). Couldnt solve it. Desperate. Lewis always told me change the purge valve and finally i did. so i guess it maybe was not one of the hundreds of vacuum tubes which caused the leak. It was the purge valve :-(
  15. Oh what a story. You see. Delicate car. Necessary to doublecheck every single step we do
  16. @Judibake, this is great info. I was not even aware of DCauto.com and yes, they have a used clutch for $100. In my case, it looks like the outer pressure plate unscrewed itself and simply fell off. I looked all around the engine compartment and there's no sign of it.
  17. You need a complete diagnosis with Durametric or PIWIS. Until you have all that data ,it is just hit/miss/speculation. That said, neither diagnostic will identify specifically worn lifters. Worn/filing lifters is usually identified by ticking hot+cold with an electronic stethoscope.
  18. Sorry what model CDR 232 does not exist.
  19. hi i changed by battery and dont have the radio code it is a becker cdr 220 ser.X5026660 can anyone help here???? Thanks in advance for your assistance!!
  20. Just an update. I wasted probably a day total trying to test the fuel pressure. That port needed an adapter to fit the Autozone kit. Then the Cayenne wouldn't stay on running long enough to check the pressure anyways. Decide to order and replace both left and right fuel pumps along with fuel filter on the left side. As most posters have mentioned previously, a mess of lines in there but not all that hard a job. Just be patient that's all. Cayenne running great now. Thanks! Ordered from Sonnen Porsche as below. Only need one of the Angled Pipe Flange though. 955-620-931-01 Fuel Pump Left Fuel $289.70 1 $289.70 955-620-911-01 Angled Pipe Flange W $9.14 2 $18.28 955-201-133-01 Fuel Pump Assembly Gasket $9.64 2 $19.28 955-620-421-00 Fuel Pump Assembly Flange $93.83 1 $93.83 955-620-932-01 Fuel Pump Assembly, RIGHT $289.70 1 $289.70
  21. Try 7340
  22. Just an additional thought from a DIYer. My AC clutch packed it in last fall and I was presented with all the valuable information that is listed above. Of note was the price of a new clutch which always included the compressor which in most instances did not need to be replaced. Of course, the replacement of the compressor is a much more involved exercise than the relatively simple replacement of the clutch pulley and its bearing. I have been involved with auto restoration for decades, and more often than not, new or restored parts were not available. I would find a used part, either refurbish it myself or have it restored by a professional. This mode of thinking somehow does not exist anymore. Everything must be new on installation, presumably because there are no guarantees by dealerships or indys on installation of used goods. I think a sound used part is more than adequate if the repair is easily performed by a DIYer. IN THE PROPER INSTANCE. DCauto.com has provided excellent used parts for my 2001 C2 and 2003 C4 Cab tip in the past including an excellent AC clutch for $100 including shipping. (3 years working normally). No need to use the electromagnetic coil if just the pulley/bearing requires replacing. I hope members will not think this thread blasphemous but this solution has worked for me for decades. 1958 Austin Healey BN6 1960 Austin Healey BN7 1957 Jaguar XK140 OTS 1952 Jaguar XK120 Coupe 1957 Austin Healey BN6 2001 Porsche 996 C2 Coupe 2003 Porsche 996 C4 Cab tip
  23. I picked up a Lenovo laptop for $250 specifically for my garage. It runs Durametric, my radar detector updater, and the controller for my Sonos speakers, one of which is in the garage. It also lets me browse this forum amongst others and Alldatadiy. I can wirelessly print to my printers in the house and so far it works quite well. I was trying to use a $100 tablet with. Single micro USB connector for charging, etc. but this was more trouble than it was worth. The cheap Windows laptop is a more useful solution. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/lenovo-110-15isk-15-6-laptop-intel-core-i3-4gb-memory-1tb-hard-drive-black/5496140.p?skuId=5496140
  24. Lewis, I've continued to follow your journey with interest -- you have my sympathies in this frustrating, long-running matter. At the risk of jinxing myself, I wanted to provide an update regarding some of my own recent experiences that may provide some additional areas for exploration. Somewhat like you, I had a stuttering in power that was particularly noticeable (to me) in the middle RPMs under medium to full throttle, but also faintly there even under light throttle on my 06 CTT. One day last year, I started having hot start issues after refueling, which is generally indicative of purge valve issues. So after a few months of this annoyance [having to floor the accelerator to get the engine started after refueling], I decided to check out the purge valve to see what it was actually doing. I found that the purge valve is normally closed, thus keeping the tank vapors from being ingested. In my case, I could apply power to the purge valve with jumper leads, and it would click, suggesting that it was working. Except that as I continued to cycle the valve, it would eventually [heat up and] get stuck open (as confirmed by sucking through it - - yuck). A stuck open purge valve would appear to act either as a vacuum leak and/or extra source of fuel - - but you'd never find it on a smoke test, because there is a check valve in front of the purge valve that keeps intake boost from pressurizing the fuel tank vent system, so you won't see it as a leak by normal means. But when it's open, the purge valve admits unmetered air/fuel to the engine. I think the ECM, in conjunction with good O2s, is probably capable of dealing with this extra air/fuel, at least under steady conditions like idle or cruise or whenever the purge valve would ordinarily be commanded to be open. But one could envision how slow O2s and/or a bad purge valve leak would cause the ECU to hunt for the right A/F mix, particularly under dynamic situations, resulting in rough running or stuttering. So in my case, I did an experiment - - mostly because I was sick of the hard start after fueling up. I put a vinyl/rubber vacuum cap over the intake side of the purge valve nipple, the part that the rubber​ hose slides over. I used a pick to poke a small hole in this cap (~1mm or less) and reassembled the intake hose over the cap onto the purge valve nipple. Result: 1) No more hard starts after refueling 2) No check engine lights (I was worried about not enough vacuum being pulled on the tank and triggering an emissions issue) 3) STUTTERING UNDER ACCELERATION WAS GONE! It runs great and strong! Transmission shifts better/smoother too. Its all linked on these cars. 4) I occasionally get a faint gasoline smell in the cabin, but I think it was actually worse before my hack/test. I suspect I need new fuel filter/pump/tank gaskets. I think this is unrelated, but I wanted to mention it, because I may not be pulling as much vacuum on the tank as the factory designed given that I've restricted the purge valve. I've driven like this now for about 3-4 months and it seems great. I bought a new replacement purge valve, but haven't gotten around to installing it. I don't know if this hack will fix your car - - it may not given that you've reportedly already replaced your purge valve, although I suppose its possible that the replacement has also failed - - but I do think it's a simple test/fix for anyone with possible purge valve issues. A few additional thoughts: 1) The simplest way to test this purge valve theory would be to disconnect the rubber hose from the purge valve and completely plug/cap the rubber intake hose (not the PV) with something. While this may throw a code over time, it would be a quick test of whether the purge valve is the source of your surging. 2) For those looking at this as a permanent fix, I used a small vinyl vacuum cap with small hole in it to restrict the flow. I figured that it would be held in place by the hose/clamp that went around it. It worked, but note that the cap got stuck in the rubber intake hose when I pulled the hose off after a test fit. No biggie, but I needed to thread a screw through the hole in the cap so I could fish it back out of the hose to reinstall it on the purge valve upon reassembly. Hope that makes sense. 3) There are likely other ways of restricting the rubber hose to the purge valve - - whatever you pick, make sure it won't damage your engine if it gets sucked in accidentally. Soft materials like rubber or vinyl are probably best. 4) I didn't experiment with the size of the orifice, but I'd think there's probably a sweet spot. The hole I made with the pick was pretty small, but definitely flowed air/vacuum. Start small. If you get a check engine light, consider enlarging the hole a bit more. Lastly, and unrelated to the above fix, have you replaced the primary O2s? It made a world of difference on my 997, even though the sensors had less than 50k miles on them. Much improved running under all conditions. My guess is that the O2s get slower to respond over time, making any real-time A/F issues much more noticeable. Hope that helps, and best wishes. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  25. hi, My radio needs the code due to the battery cable being removed.. cdr-220 BE 4462 X5025943 Can anyone help? Thanks! Mark
  26. Today I Took out the regulator to look for the reason why the tank level won't show full when it is full. It seems the right float level could have hit a pipe (return fuel from sucking jet on left side) but can't be sure. I adjusted it and refixed everything. With 1/4 tank I wouldn't know if this was the Fix until I refilled. I started the car and it started fine. Thought I best test each pump individually. Left pump was fine. But the right pump would idle but spluttered and coughed and back fires when trying to rev. Something was not right. I thought I best remove the right pump and put in the old one thinking the pump maybe at fault unless something else popped up like a broken pipe etc. When tearing back into it again, I needed to remove the filter to unplug the pipe from the right pump. I then notice the rightside suckjet return pipe which picks up fuel from the right side and dumps it into the left pipe casing was kinked! I repositions and locked in the pump anti clockwise some degrees and all looked to be good plus it was looking possible that pipe could have interfered with the left side fuel float as well when coming near full. Going back to the recently new right side pump I pulled it out and measured resistance and it was same as old pump 0.4ohms. I then rechecked the piping connections and realised one pipe (small pipe from right pump for the sucking jet over on the left side) I didn't disconnect it which means it was already disconnected I think it blew off at some point because the right pump did run on its own when new I tested it! So I used the recently new right pump and refitted it after finding this obvious problem. The car runs the same with the right pump only now just fine. But sadly no smoking gun for the stutter hesitation. The kinked pipe return on the left side pump from the right side sucking jet was the reason I'm pretty sure it stalled and would not restart last week. My explanation is the left side tank was empty and the fuel wasn't being sucked from the right side of the tank to replenish it, (despite a small amount from the fuel pressure regulator return pipe coming back to the left pump it wasn't enough) being 1/4 tank or just under the right side pump wasn't yet called in for operation by the dme. When on the tow truck either the fuel sloshed around to balance the fuel from the right side over to the left or the angle the flat bed was sat at prior to unloading me when I decided to try and start the engine again was allowing the fuel level sensor floats to tell the dme the tank was nearly empty and then both pump would run and as if by magic it starts.
  27. Spot on! Thanks for all the help that you provide the community. Cheers!
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