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Yes, that can be correct as one DME can be used in multiple versions of the car, which may have different equipment and control networks that the DME needs to be aware of to function correctly.

So I sent my ECU (DME) to get it checked and repaired if need be. Turns out the programming was corrupted (so they say) and they have to reprogram it to my specific car. Does this sound right??? Thanks V

I can not fine the code for my Becker CDR-220 Type 4462 SN X5028070. If possible, will please tell me the code for it? Toby 99 Boxster 968

youre a scholar and a gentleman thank you

Have you looked for a mechanical fault with the shifter? Sometimes thing fall down into the shift mechanism and jam the lever.

Try 7695

Try 0214

Transmission bloquée en position Park impossible de communiquer avec le module TCM toutes les connexions électriques sont OK J'ai remplacé le module TCM mais il est toujours bloqué !

Loren; Just got another P-Car. Code is lost with previous owner. CR-220 Becker 1 Type 4362 Serial # Y5023366 Respectfully; Don Steiner

Hello, Can you please provide me with a radio code? CR210 W5011038

Your key has to be on for sure when entering Jack mode. not sure if on a 957 the engine has to be running or not.

It was a cross-bar under the transmission pan got loose because I had overfilled a bit so the oil got to the mounting bolts + vibration.

Thank you, will try that tmrw.

Try 1043

I recently purchased a 986 as my first Porsche and did not have the radio code supplied. May I please have a code for: Porsche CDR 22 986 type 4467 seri x5021541 Any help would be greatly appreciated.

You need to get the car scanned with a proper Porsche diagnostic tool, nothing else will work properly, and yes that calibration code can be the issue.

Hi everyone. Really need an expert's help, to understand what's wrong with this car. Last february, on a regular drive the car suddenly lost traction. Stopped the car, waited a few minutes and then was able to drive the car to safe place. Since then, no traction at all. Car starts normal, allow to engage Drive, you press accelerator and nothing, car won't move. Change the fluid and filter for PDK, thinking it would solve the issue but nothing. Asked a friend that has a Launch Diagnose machine, to diagnose the car. A couple of communication issues, due to a dead battery that were solved immediately, but one error remained: - P1872: Data Record for Hydraulics Calibration is invalid Is it possible that the car won't run, beacuse of this calibration config? Meanwhile, got a Piwis 3 and a VCX SE interface, which connect's to the car, but won't read anything... I believe it might be this software "version" that is corrupted, and I'll try to find a better one. Does anyone have an idea on what mught be the issue, and a possible solution?

Welcome to RennTech Replacing the change over valve on a 986

I changed the heater valve and the top air hose broke. I hear it connects to the change over valve. Can someone show me where the change over valve is located at? Thank you in advance.

We have installed many B&M shifters over the years, and they have proven to be one of the best when it comes to durability, and in fact we have never had to replace one. More likely, you have a cable or cable end issue.

I have a problem with my (I believe) B&M shifter, just started recently where it was getting difficult to shift into reverse. Now I can only shift into 2nd and 4th. What do I need to adjust and/or replace? I'm hoping it's just something simple, but I'm guessing the bushings need to be replaced? I just installed it a couple of years ago, and I tightened up the two side nuts (made it worse).

Just got the car started! I didn't realize that jumping the fuel pump relay bypasses the immobilizer. That makes a lot of sense now and got me thinking about what else could be cutting power to the fuel pump. Not much else in that equation so I went back over the basics again. I first checked for voltage at the fuel pump relay and confirmed that I did not see any voltage when cranking the car. Next down the line would be the fuse box so I looked at the fuse box again and went to pull the fuel pump fuse, a 25 amp fuse in position C4. I was shocked when I looked and it was completely missing! DOH! I did pull all the fuses about a week ago in a fit of desperation so perhaps I walked away with it to check for continuity or something and put it down somewhere? I have no idea where it went as its nowhere to be found in the car (apparently cannabis can effect the memory.) And that doesn't explain why it wasn't starting before I pulled the fuses. Perhaps the original CPS was bad as well? I tested the old fuel pump and it seems fine so my money is on that CPS. I guess I could put it back in the car to see if goes back to crank no start but at this point I'm very glad to have the car running. I have a car friend arriving tomorrow for a visit from across the country and the weather is perfect for some mountain and costal road carving with the top down. I was really worried that he was going to miss the opportunity to experience this amazing car that I've really been enjoying for the past few years. Thank you very much for the prompt responses, JFP. I couldn't have done it without your added info and I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

The immobilizer shuts off both the fuel and ignition systems to prevent theft of the car. The CPS does the same thing if it does not sense the engine rotation. When you jump the fuel pump relay, the immobilizer is out of the picture, so if you do not hear the pump running when it is jumped, you have a fuel pump issue. Using a multi meter or Power Probe, you can test the fuel up connector at the tank to see if it goes hot when cranking the engine.

Thanks for the quick reply, JFP. I have examined the immobilizer closely and there is no visible damage and both the fuses appear to be in tact. I still have the seat unbolted so I can check again but I even cleaned the connections with sand paper and alcohol just to be sure. I strongly suspect that the fuel pump is not getting power but I have not been able to confirm this. I have tried to jump the relay but I never hear any noise from the fuel tank when i turn the ignition to the on position. I tested the original pump that I removed from the car and confirmed it runs fine when I hook it directly to a battery. Perhaps there is another sensor that is keeping the immobilizer from sending power to the fuel pump? I have read about bad cam position sensors but I'm unsure if they will cause these symptoms. I'm thinking of looking there next maybe? Thanks again for the suggestions!