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Top replacement on an '00 S (we did it)


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Well, it took all day. And we did have some issues. But it is done. No wrinkles, no fitment issues, no cables going outside the b-pillar trim, no misplaced seams, no leaks (so far!). :)

I have to say, I have done some "difficult" car work in the past. Rebuilt two rotary engines. Clutch replacement on FWD and RWD cars. Starters. Heater cores. Full suspension overhauls. Cut out and welded floorboards. Fuel pumps. Turbocharger installs. None of them compared to the frustration and difficulty of this install. First major issue, the plastic slider clamp pieces were brittle and broken before we even tried to remove them. Buy the clamping pieces ahead of time, and some replacement rivets. They are too cheap to take a chance with... just buy them.

Second problem, the double sided tape absolutely would not stick to the Robbins "European canvas" or whatever they call their "high end" material. We tried de-linting the fabric, cleaning it, nothing worked. The tape would not hold. I used the recommended 3M tape. I guess we did something wrong. Not sure.

Third problem, the front edge of the top was a bear to get lined up properly. The top material wanted to bunch up at the corners and prevent the leading edge of the weatherstrip (with its metal hooks) from seating properly. We had to trim (carefully!) some material to allow it to fit.

Needless to say, it is done, and again it fits brilliantly and looks the dog's bollocks. But I would never ever ever attempt this again. Too frustrating. $800 for labor to install it? Seems very much worth it to me, and I DIY everything.

post-7203-1208661330_thumb.jpg

post-7203-1208661342_thumb.jpg

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John:

Congratulations! The top looks great. :clapping:

From the sound of it, you also deserve kudos for sticking with it.

The next one you do gets easier, I assure you! B)

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks gents. I will definitely never do another one!

Any comments on the tape not sticking? It stuck to the aluminum and to the plastic header like gangbusters but not to the top material!

Also I have one minor leak (very minor) above the driver's window. I think I need to remove the weatherstrip and "goop" it up on the backside. There was a lot of factory black good under them and we didn't replace it.

Lastly, I have two small rubber trim/gasket pieces that go on the front header which meets the windshield, but I can't figure out how they're oriented. I can't even find them in the PET. I can take pictures, but does anyone know what I'm talking about? :)

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just wondering guys,

does it cost a lot more to actually change the top together with the actuating or folding motors and the whole shebang into the facelifted four bow ones? then our rear glass would b glass!

what are the things to change and how much?

any experience out there guys/girls

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Lastly, I have two small rubber trim/gasket pieces that go on the front header which meets the windshield, but I can't figure out how they're oriented. I can't even find them in the PET. I can take pictures, but does anyone know what I'm talking about? :)

John:

I just took my old top off last night. I'm putting on the new on tonight. I took a picture of a corner piece. Is this the one you are referring to? Not sure if you can see how it is oriented in the photo.

Derek

post-12616-1208922972_thumb.jpg

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Thanks gents. I will definitely never do another one!

Any comments on the tape not sticking? It stuck to the aluminum and to the plastic header like gangbusters but not to the top material!

Also I have one minor leak (very minor) above the driver's window. I think I need to remove the weatherstrip and "goop" it up on the backside. There was a lot of factory black good under them and we didn't replace it.

Lastly, I have two small rubber trim/gasket pieces that go on the front header which meets the windshield, but I can't figure out how they're oriented. I can't even find them in the PET. I can take pictures, but does anyone know what I'm talking about? :)

John:

The "factory black goop" that you are referring to is actually a strip of foam rubber with adhesive on one side (bottom side onto the frame member, with the aluminum shoulder plate squeezing down on it) that gets crushed. With the passage of time (8 to 10 years), it becomes unrecognizable as black goop.

Take a look at this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=17537&hl=

More specifically, look at post #14 for photos of the replacement foam seals which are apparently not available from Porsche. The photos will give you an idea on how to make your own. I believe they are important for preventing leaks exactly at the spot that you mention.

The small rubber trim/gasket pieces are fitted at each corner of the front edge of the convertible top frame. Photos would help to make sure we are identifying them correctly.

Regards, Maurice.

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just wondering guys,

does it cost a lot more to actually change the top together with the actuating or folding motors and the whole shebang into the facelifted four bow ones? then our rear glass would b glass!

what are the things to change and how much?

any experience out there guys/girls

Buying the individual parts from Porsche (if they can be retrofitted) would be prohibitively expensive.

Your best bet if you want to follow that route, is to find a 2003 or 2004 complete top with frame mechanism from a junkyard. Removing the old top and replacing with a "new" one of those is less than a one hour job.

Regards, Maurice.

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The small rubber trim/gasket pieces are fitted at each corner of the front edge of the convertible top frame. Photos would help to make sure we are identifying them correctly.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

Here is a (bad, blurry, BlackBerry) image of the part in question. Does this "clear" it up? I can't, for the life of me, remember where these came from!

Thanks,

John

post-7203-1208956144_thumb.jpg

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Here is a (bad, blurry, BlackBerry) image of the part in question. Does this "clear" it up? I can't, for the life of me, remember where these came from!

Thanks,

John

John,

I'm pointing to the little trim piece in the picture I put up on post #6. It goes on after you tighten the aluminum plate, and before you put on the foot long metal retainer for the weather strip.

Hope this helps.

Derek

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