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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Paul Grainger

    Window does not drop

    I had the same problem. There is a rubber coupling between the motor and window cable drive pulley. The rubber softens with age to the point where the window barely moves when the handle is operated, however when the window is fully opened or closed everything appears fine. The mechanism can be stripped very easily, I made replacement rubber coupling inserts just using a Stanley knife and 8mm rubber gasket material. The end result was a perfect cure that cost pennies.
  2. 1 point
    deilenberger

    Steer lock Fault

    Loren - dunno if you notice - this thread is in the wrong section. FWIW - there are some rather lengthy threads on various Cayenne forum websites describing this fault on the 955/957 series - and some fixes. The problem is wear within the column control devices (magnets on shafts that move in/out of hall-effect sensors) - a few people have bodged a fix for it that doesn't require steering column replacement (Porsche's solution.) I have also heard of this happening if the wiring bundle under the passenger's or drivers floor carpeting has gotten water soaked and the splices within it corroding. This usually also causes other fault codes.
  3. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 5010
  4. 1 point
    1schoir

    How to manually lowering convertible top

    There is a small, black, two-piece plastic part located a few inches back from the very front of each "arm" of the clamshell. It is located under the clamshell, in the rain channel and it can be used to adjust the height of the final position of the front of each arm. If you look at it closely, you will see that it is just a matter of pulling the two pieces apart (lowers it) or pushing the two pieces towards each other (raises it.). If the driver's side front of the clamshell is sitting closer to the proper height as you describe, try to adjust the passenger side to the same configuration as a starting point and go from there. Then you can go back to the driver's side and make perfect. Regards, Maurice.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    doublegarage

    PSM + Misfire code simultaneously

    I'm confused by a fault that keeps appearing on my 2011 Cayenne S. 71,800 miles, I've owned since 70,500 with little history known before my ownership. Therefore sorting through the usual new-owner issues. I'll illustrate with an example. - Last night, car was running perfectly, had been fine for about 150 miles - connected Durametric and saw no codes under engine, PSM, tiptronic, AWD etc - this morning - 60 mile roundtrip - about 3 miles from home suddenly car feels like it's running rough, maybe on 6 or 7 cylinders, dashboard alternates between "Check Engine", "PSM Failure" and "Start-stop deactivated" - switched car off/on - no change - got home and read codes as follows: Engine: P0305 Upper limit value exceeded PSM: U112300 Databus error value received Factory Fault Code 336397 Warning Indicator On Test Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Not Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Not Pending DTC Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active AWD: 293 / 125 PSM activation by PTM Warning Indicator Off Pending DTC Test Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active AWD: 12656773 / C12085 Check PSM control unit fault memory content Warning Indicator Off Test Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Failed Since Last Clear Test Completed Since Last Clear Pending DTC Test Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active So the P0305 is misfire on cylinder 5, I get that. Back home the car was idling and running roughly when I cleared that code and it instantly smoothed out. Does it shut down cyl5 when a misfire is detected more than some number of times? Normally I'd pull that plug and inspect/replace that coil etc, but the fact that it happens in conjunction with all the PSM warnings has me suspicious. Can anyone throw some light on the PSM and AWD faults? Searching for those numbers hasn't helped yet - still searching, but thought I'd ask here too. Note, clearing these codes cleans everything up, no codes return and all runs perfectly - until next time (3 cycles so far) -Richard Santa Cruz, CA 2011 Porsche Cayenne S
  8. 1 point
    rsq911

    Locked out!!!!

    Hi everyone- 99' 996, both remotes need to be reprogrammed, battery is good, and when I manually locked it, something happened to the key tumbler to locking mechanism. So, the alarm is on, car is locked, and I can't get in. options? will opening the "frunk" with the emergency release, and disconnecting the battery reset the alarm and unlock the doors? thanks in advance
  9. 1 point
    jhshelton

    Engine deck lid emergency cable

    1999 996 cab - How do I access to the emergency cable, behind the left rear light fixture? Driver side trunk release not functioning properly. Thanks in advance
  10. 1 point
    Loren

    Steer lock Fault

    Fault code 0288 -- Electronic steering column lock (ELV) Possible cause of fault - Short circuit to B+ or open circuit in wiring - Short circuit to ground or open circuit in wiring - Implausible signal - No signal/communication - Plug on steering column lock not connected correctly - Steering column lock faulty - Control module faulty Note - Visual inspection: In the next troubleshooting section, please check first that the affected pins on the KESSY control module plug connection are neither damaged nor corroded. The wiring and plugs of the affected components must also be checked for external damage and correct contacts. Repair damaged or corroded pins if possible, otherwise replace affected pins. Repair or replace damaged wires. A Porsche diagnostic tool (PIWIS test) would likely tell you more about the source of the problem.
  11. 1 point
    lewisweller

    2008 Cayenne S

    I would say the rise is normal but the drop to 60oC identifies the thermostat is stuck open as the engine temperature should be maintained at 80oC all the time and not less. I would hazard a guess your engine takes a long time to warm up? Classic stuck open thermostat symptom. The thermostat is designed to open partially at 83oC I believe and fully open at 87oC. The dash gauges is also not very accurate! If you have the AC on the temperature is maintained more strictly from rising as the fans are already running. If the AC is off the engine coolant will rise to around 87oC then fall back to 80oC in a cyclic manner. As long as it doesn't over heat I wouldn't worry about it.
  12. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Did you put the keys back in? Pull it out a little and look to depress the side clips.
  13. 1 point
    Anytime you remove the hydraulic chain tensioners in one of these engines, the engine needs to be locked at TDC with a pin through the lower pulley, and the cams locked at the cylinder heads with the correct cam locking plates for the style engine you are working on (three chain or five chain). To do otherwise is to risk having the cams move due to spring tension and cause the now slack chain(s) to jump time, which will then require an enormous amount of work to correct. The cam locking plates are cheap insurance against that happening,
  14. 1 point
    Zakowsky

    2003 Cayenne Turbo Running Rough

    Probably too simple, but since you have no other error codes are the plugs torqued correctly? First time I changed my plugs I didn’t have the nerve to go to 20 ft/lbs, seemed way to tight for an expensive aluminum head, but I got the same error codes and rough running too (just a bit rough though). Went back and re-torqued them to spec and all was fine. Was really surprised it made a difference.
  15. 1 point
    rjt86

    2003 Cayenne Turbo Running Rough

    Is there any other suggestions on what to look at that hasn't already been checked? Durametric won't give me any additional info that the shops have already seen, so I'm not feeling to confident even if I did have it.
  16. 1 point
    Goblin

    Broken power lock switch

    I have 2012 Cayenne. My rear window lock button stopped working. I have to literally press it 10 times at various angles in order to lock unlock it. I don't use this button much , but its still very annoying. I saw on Ebay you can get the whole panel contol panel for about $30-$35 like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Front-Door-Window-Switch-For-Porsche-Panamera-Cayenne-7PP959858MDML-/281963466546?epid=2121011919&hash=item41a6550f32:g:1zgAAOSwoudW6~hw&vxp=mtr The question i have is...did anyone try using these cheap chinese parts? Do they hold up or do they fade in a year or does chrome on them rub off after the first car wash?
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    2011 Cayenne Transmission oil change

    You need a non contact infrared pyrometers that measures the temp of the fluid coming out, even drips, without touching it. It can also be used to check the temperature of the trans pan the same way.
  19. 1 point
    The probe on the digital thermometer - if inserted in the fill tube will be measuring the temperature of the air in the transmission.. unless you insert it while fluid is pouring out of the fill tube (seems rather messy.) I think plan B has more chance of success. And the temperature isn't critical to 1-degree.. nor is the level IMHO. Porsche owners do tend to obsess sometimes (I'm not innocent of this myself..)
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Brian Zaniboni

    door panel lights

    Ahsai vanity mirror lights are working. Do you know how I can get the cover of lights on the lower section of the door panel off so that I can check the bulbs
  22. 1 point
    I have a 2003 2.7. The spoiler and boot release appear to be on the same fuse - D7 - 15 amp. Have you tried replacing that? If not, perhaps that's the easiest first step.
  23. 1 point
    If you haven't been looking there, the emergency release cable should be located under the drivers side rear tail light, taped to the bodywork. You will probably have to use a torch and look closely, and you should see a steel cable. Carefully extract it, and give it a smooth but forceful pull. This cable is a feature originally built into all Boxsters, including UK spec.
  24. 1 point
    Try 8676
  25. 1 point
    Loren

    2011 Cayenne Transmission oil change

    You will need the proper tools to remove the fill plug - as well you will need a digital thermometer to check the transmission is heated to the proper temperature before filling.
  26. 1 point
    Hi Own a black 2006 V6 3.2L BASE cayenne. I have to order some interior trim and am confused if I have havanna or sand beige.... I have an identification slip which I found near the space saver tire in the trunk. I am attaching it can anyone help to decode it for interior colors and also for options it has? Thanks
  27. 1 point
    doublegarage

    PSM + Misfire code simultaneously

    Hello, and thanks for the reply. On another forum suggested the bad-coil idea - and there was one code which suggested a misfire on cylinder 5 - that cylinder was therefore shutting down and the car running rough until I cleared the code. I changed that single coil, and the car hasn't had the problem since - therefore I changed the other 7 coils. It seems that changing coils should be a service item - everyone who's had the problem sees them failing at about 70k miles like mine. Thanks, -Richard
  28. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 3812
  29. 1 point
    9552T500

    Blown engine........

    Interesting. There are more threads on cracked valve seating ring issue.... Also an '02, and also Cyl 4 & liner crack as a consequence. My #4 piston rings are seized, and likely the additional radial pressure from piston/ring initiated the sleeve to crack . However, interestingly, there are no signs of a broken seating on the #1 cylinder , but I also see that there was some hard debris in the chamber (see picture of the damaged #1&#4 domes/pistons) , causing piston and head to be deformed - yet the rings are still ok, and piston would likely work again. The real question to me here is where the debris in Cyl # 1 could have originated ? Can a parts of the broken intake valve seat from #4 somehow be transported to #1 cylinder ?? How likely it is that the damage may have been primarily triggered by sth. other than just a valve seat quality issue for this model year??? So far I thoroughly sonic'ed and inspected 99% engine components w/o finding any obvious damage/emanating hard debris material. The crank cradle assembly is the last item In question here, but which I am hesitant to dismantle if the likely hood of the root cause there is low. All rods move smoothly and show no bends or other damage). I just wanted to clean the cradle from the oil/coolant mix and just re-use. Otherwise , it looks like, likely getting engine casing , one head and at least one piston replaced is what will likely get this baby running again. BTW- if sb. has a 3.6l casing in good used cond. for sale - please let me know. Thanks.
  30. 1 point
    Wausau 911

    Foam Pieces in Defrost Vent

    Yup, found some of that stuff and lately been noticing some noise coming from the back of the center console. Possible other foam pieces striking the fan? Suggestions on determining issue and a fix (Hope it doesn't include a lot of dismantling). Thx for recommendations.
  31. 1 point
    Ok, so we're talking about a 17-18 year old key fob (Even at their best, they never worked at 200ft. like a Toyota fob). There's a good chance it just may be plain worn out... Keeping that in mind, a fresh battery is the first thing to start with. It seems like you changed the battery in at least your #1 fob - did you change both? If yes, is there any difference in how they work? If not, there is the possibility that the switch (button) is worn/damaged, or perhaps the pc board in the fob is damaged (sometimes the solder joints will crack from flexing many thousands of times). In many cases opening up the fob and just touching all the solder joints with a hot soldering iron is an easy fix. Short of such a DIY your options are limited to getting a new fob(s) and having them programed by a dealer $$$
  32. 1 point
    http://fdmotorsports.net/fister-exhaust-996/
  33. 1 point
    While just about everyone selling headers and exhaust systems make large HP improvement claims, in reality they are typically very small. if any improvement at all, when tested on the dyno. The exhaust systems the factory used are actually pretty good all by themselves, and drone free which is more than many aftermarket systems can claim, so reusing your stock mufflers is not a bad idea. Another option is picking up used cats off a wreck; we have done that for several customers with good results.
  34. 1 point
    lewisweller

    '08 Cayenne S vapor lock?

    Vapor lock is quite unlikely IMHO. More likely is the venturi jet pick up on the right hand side of the tank, a small pipe of pressurised fuel feed from the primary pump which sucks up a larger quantity of fuel from the right side of the tank and passes that fuel back over to the left side "primary" pump Container is actually sucking some air as you climb up steep continuous hills. The jet venturi is forward of the tank hence fuel would be sloshing away from the jet pickup, fuel will move towards the rear of the tank in a hill climbing circumstance. The primary pump delivery therefore exceeds the quantity it can draw through the bottom of the pumps Container (note the bottom plastic filter screen also gets blocked over time with dirt and debris and is not designed to draw up large quantities of fuel especially when engine load is high and fuel mpg is also high). There maybe some in tank pipes fallen off or split but they would probably show themselves in normal driving circumstances and from your post it only happened when Hill climbing and when you drove back down hill it was fine?
  35. 1 point
    Hmmm, I thought I posted this, made a correction and my post evaporated. ^%##)^^@ Anyway, I'm into the removing the A/C-heater door. I wouldn't be doing it, but my A/C is slow to cool so I hope this will fix the problem. Question: Emmett says that the servo arm is under the console, does he mean forward of the console under the dash. If that's the case it would appear to me that you have to remove part of the radio stack? Update: To access the servo motor and arm you need to remove the foam pad that covers the area under the dash and forward from where the glove box ends. There're 3 slotted plastic screws that are located on the rearward edge of the foam covering. You need to be able to stand on your head for this. So far I'm not sure I have the 7mm nut that removes the servo arm. I've got to get my inspection mirror for a better look. Getting close, no cigar... Thanks, Mitch
  36. 1 point
    DBJoe996

    In the dark about headlights

    The Litronic headlights have a self-leveling function, with linkages to the front suspension and rear suspension. Do they move up and down when you turn them on? Also, for the Litronics there is a ballast (control unit) that fires the light. Might check that out. See parts here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=905-03
  37. 1 point
    doublegarage

    PSM + Misfire code simultaneously

    Thanks Loren - the car starts like a champ, really cranks over fast, so it hadn't occurred to me it could be the battery. But I see what you mean. I'll take a look at the ground cables, then change the battery. -Richard
  38. 1 point
    Loren

    PSM + Misfire code simultaneously

    When I see random seemingly unrelated intermittent electronic faults on a Cayenne the first two things I think of are battery and grounds. These cars are really susceptible to a weak battery or corrosion on the main ground cables. I would check those first.
  39. 1 point
    lewisweller

    cayenne starting problem

    The high pressure fuel pump came in on the 2007/8 model cayenne v8 so the OP Ricurt will be looking at the delivery from the two pumps inside his tank and the filter and regulator function. If you pull out fuse 14 cycle the key off on, will it run? Then try with fuse 13 removed cycle key off on will it run? Any codes?
  40. 1 point
      This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial Coolant Pipe Replacement Detailed Instructions. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  41. 1 point
    JimPDX

    OEM Porsche Antifreeze/Coolant

    Are there any after market brands of coolant that meet or exceed the Porsche brand coolant for the 99 C2. I was told by Sunset that there are no commercially available A/M coolants that meet Porsche specs. When I asked the Service Writer what those specs were he didn't have a clue (not surprising). Its like 14.00 a Quart! Jim
  42. 1 point
    hogboydave

    Central Locking/Alarm Issue

    Update. I replaced the passenger side door latch mechanism, AND the ignition switch. Best I can say is that I seem to have 'affected' the problem. I still get the red light on the door lock button on the dash, although its less frequent. I don't get the double-chirp while driving, although, if I press the red light button while its lit, the door locks actuate and the alarm chirps twice.
  43. 1 point
    1schoir

    Foam Pieces in Defrost Vent

    The issue is that the foam rubber pieces that help seal the flaps over the inner vents have aged and deteriorated and will keep flying out piece by piece for a long time. At the same time, the vents won't have a complete seal and the air (whether heated or a/c'd) will not go completely where it's supposed to go, according to your settings. There is a comprehensive fix that involves accessing those flaps from the outside of the car, below the base of the windshield and there was a very good write-up by a guy named "rsfeller" on a site called carboncow.net. That fix is no longer on that site but I believe the poster moved it to another location. If I find the write-up, I'll post the link here. Regards, Maurice.
  44. 1 point
    1schoir

    Central Locking System Problem

    There is one external fuse for the immobilizer. It's a 15 amp fuse, and it's located on the rear of the unit. You can unbolt the seat and just lean it back, supported by a block of wood under one front corner to access the unit. It's easily removable by just turning the one phillips screw 90 degrees. If you want to take the seat out, you have to be careful not to set off the airbag light, which can't be reset without a Durametric, PST2 or PIWIS. You can take out the driver's seat without disconnecting it from the connector if you set the seat on a small platform next to the door sill (the wires are long enough). Regards, Maurice.
  45. 1 point
    Folks, there are probably a lot of places describing how to change the air filter and the serpentine belt on this and various forums. But when you search for it, nothing comes really easy. So, underneath, I have written an easy step by step guide that will allow you to change your air filter and serpentine belt in less than one hour (it took me 30 minutes and I was doing it for the first time). To be successful, you will need the following tools and parts: - Air filter element (Pelican $21.00) - Serpentine Belt Porsche genuine part (Suncoast or Pelican $37.00) - Torx screw driver T25 - 7 mm socket or wrench - 24mm socket (1/2 inch) - 1/2 inch break bar (18 inch long) A-Removal of the air filter on the 3.8S engine. 1) Using the 7mm wrench, unlock the three metal collars of the rubber plenum on top of the air filter box. Push the collars inside but do not remove them. Disengage carefully the rubber hose. 2) Remove electric connectors and vacuum line from behind. There are two connectors and one vacuum line that must be carefully removed: the connectors by unlocking the plastic and metallic tabs, and the vacuum line by pulling gently on the U shaped rubber hose. I am showing a picture taken from behind the air filter box to explain the process. Also, open the two cables holder (they open like a claw). 3) The filter box hold only thanks to three prongs (two underneath and one on the rear. When pulling and wiggling the box out, be very careful as to not lose the two rubber grommets located at the bottom of the box. To prevent such accident, I glued mine to the frame: 4) The engine compartment is now open. Tuck gently the two electrical wires and the vacuum line on the side: 5) When removing the air filter box, be very careful as to not damage the fine plastic film located underneath, that is used to give that great noise at mid-high RPMs. The picture below shows you where you fingers must NOT go: 6) The air filter box can be opened with your T25 TORX screw driver. There are 8 screws to be unlocked all the way (do not remove them from the box). The filter element is easily swapped with a new one. I usually write mileage and date on the side of the filter element with a Sharpie. 7) To re-assemble, just screw the 8 T25 TORX screws in place. Leave the air filter unit aside for now. B - Changing the serpentine belt: 1) The serpentine belt is actually quite easy to change. The picture below show the engine compartment without the air filter box, with a plain view of the belt and its circonvolutions: Pick up your break bar and the 24 mm socket. Insert the socket as shown in the picture and position the bar to your right: Now, using your hand, gently push on the break bar (clockwise) to move the belt tensionner closer to the pulley. Do not be afraid to push, as the hydraulic spring is quite strong. This will give you enough room to remove the old belt from the various pulleys. Install the new belt starting by the bottom of the engine. Some wiggling will be necessary to remove and insert the new belt, as clearances are very tight with the engine mount frame. Follow the same path (make a drawing or take a picture if unsure) with your new belt. There are multiple models of belts and I went with the genuine Porsche part which is slightly more expensive. But this is such an important part that saving money would be foolish. Plus, you will probably change it once or twice in the life of the car, so it is not worth saving $10 or $15 with lower quality parts. Again, press clockwise on your bar to give you enough slack to re-install the new belt around the tensionner. Et voila. It is now time to verify that the belt sits nicely in the grooves and pulleys, that it follows a logic and coherent path, and perhaps take time to clean up the engine and the rear compartment. A clean engine is always more pleasant and easier to maintain. Re-insert the air filter box, but not entirely - just position it into the engine compartment. Re-assemble the plenum starting with the main hose (larger one) and insert it into the air filter box. Make sure the top hole is also covered by the plenum. Gently tighten the collar, but do not overdo it. Using a 7 mm wrench should give you more than enough torque. Then proceed with the small hose on top of the air box filter. Tighten the clamp. Finally, insert the air box filter in the bottom grommets (you glued them, so they are secure) and the rear insert. Gently connect the plenum with the intake manifold on top of the engine. Tighten the clamp. Re-connect the vacuum line to the U shaped tube (you know where to find it, now). Re-connect both electrical connectors and secure them with the two plastic claws. Final sweep with a clean rag on top of the filter and then on your forehead (respect the order, please). Admire your work, have a beer and tell yourself that you just saved a trip to the dealer and $400 of labors. You just developed a special bond with your car and "she" loves you for that. Turn the Ignition key and watch the new serpentine belt spin around the pulleys. You just did it. Yves
  46. 1 point
    Thank you Loren, I just got it fixed. I had checked that TSB before and my VIN isn't on the list. I searched and found this the following article. I followed the direction and got the problem fixed. When I worked on the wire, the wire/connector has electric tape wrapped (very Mickey Mouse job) and had been worked on before. That could be the TSB has applied on my 05 and that's why the VIN is not listed for the TSB. I crimped the connector and read the value again with the Durametric tool and read "Correct". After that, I clear the code and everything is okay. Other said it may become loss again later and to have it solder is the best solution. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-cayenne/529043-side-airbag-fault-warning.html In case other has this problem in the future, the wire & connector can be access at the back of the driver seat. No need to remove any bolt or trim. I spent over an hour at the front with no progress until found the wire at the back. Thank you again to everyone.
  47. 1 point
    Doug_B_928

    Oil Change

    I did the oil change yesterday and it went perfectly. I thought I'd provide the information in this post that I consolidated from this and other forums for any others who are interested. Pics attached. Thanks to all those who provided this information. 1. I changed the oil with a warm engine so that the oil would drain more easily. 2. I didn't unscrew the cap on the filler neck until midway through the draining process so that the oil wouldn't come out too quickly. 3. Unscrew the drain plug using an 8mm hex bit and let drain into a collecting basin. Next time I'll also place a tarp on the floor to catch any splatter that comes from the collecting basin. 4. While the oil was still dribbling, I loosened the oil filter housing using the special tool Oil Filter Spanner 92040. 5. While waiting for the oil filter element to completely drain, I removed the old O-ring from the oil filter housing. I used a flat head screw driver to get under it and to pry it off. Ensure not to scratch/damage the oil filter housing. The O-ring comes off very easily. 6. I then cleaned the oil filter housing, and placed a new O-ring on the oil filter housing. In the latter regard, I dipped the O-ring in some of the oil that was still inside the housing, distributed it all over the O-ring, and then gently rolled the O-ring over the housing until it rolled into place. Rolling it on evenly ensures that it doesn't get twisted, which would hamper making a good seal. 7. I then removed the old oil filter and cut it open to inspect it for metal fragments. Apparently small pepper sized metal fragments are okay, but cracked pepper sized fragments are a sign of potential problems. Mine looked great, with only a few little metal fragments in the entire filter. 8. Then I replaced the drain plug. I changed from the original to a magnetic one from LN Engineering (via Pelican Parts). It uses a 10mm hex. When putting the new aluminum sealing ring on the drain plug, ensure the smooth side is toward the engine block and the sharp edged side is toward the plug. I turned it counter clockwise until if felt it seat, then turned it clockwise by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Then use a torque wrench to tighten to 37 ftlb torque. 9. Then I inserted a new filter element. Place a little pressure on it and it pops right in place. 10. I prefilled the oil filter housing to somewhere between 1/3 and just under 1/2 full. Then screw it on by hand and finish with a torque wrench tightening to 19 ftlb torque (my 1/4" torque wrench only goes to 200 inlb which is a bit less than 19 ftlb--228inlb, and my 1/2" starts at 20ftlb; so I put it on with the 1/4 at 200 inlb and then checked with the 1/4" at 20 ftlb and got the click right away, so it should be about right). 11. I then began filling oil, having placed some paper towel to catch some drips under the filler neck. I put in the rest of the container that I started for the oil filter housing, as well as 7 more litres (i.e., 8 litres). 12. Check oil level. It gave an overfull indication, which apparently is normal. I started the car and let it run for about 15 seconds (Despite having prefilled the oil filter housing, I did get a low pressure warning that lasted only a second). Then started the check oil procedure again. This time it takes about 30 minutes. It tested one segment short (sorry for the poor pic but you'll get the idea). One segment corresponds to 0.4 litres, so I put in 400ml more, checked again with ignition only, and the oil level was perfect. So, the total oil used was 8.4 litres. 13. Then start the motor again and let run for a few minutes. Check for leaks. 14. Take it for a spin, and check for leaks.
  48. 1 point
    Roof strips pop right out - there are plastic clips (~4) under each strip that grip on threaded studs protruding from the channel under the strip. Replacement clips are cheap - plan on replacing them for reassembly. Rubber is screwed on with each screw cleverly tucked under the folds of rubber. Some are real tough to find. Consider leaving the rubber in place and tape it. You can loosen it to better mask for painting.
  49. 1 point
    I got sick of not having cupholders in my Boxster. So I set out to find some. The options seemed to be OEM cupholders, either the clip on type, or the single DIN type. And we all know the problems with those - not secure enough fit, not accommodating large cups, etc. Also, the DIN type takes up an entire vertical DIN slot, making fitting double DIN GPS impossible. Other solutions seem to be to use a cutout for cups in the centre console box - which means the lid needs to stay open; and "ultimate cupholder" - which doesn't look OEM at all. So I was searching for generic cupholders on Ebay, and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439b780b6e And from a seller, the dimensions are: 7 7/16" long by 1" just the cover lid, assembly is 7" x 4 3/4" The width is as close to OEM fit for the Boxster as it gets, for a non-Porsche part! So I bought it. Realising that late model VWs like Passat and Jetta has the same console width as our Boxster, I then bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3ca672b7af It's entirely possible that other units like this http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3356ef534c would also fit. And before you start, get a rotary tool (like a Dremel). It's an absolute god send! Made things so easy. Here is the unit: Compared to another double DIN unit I originally planned for the mod: The difference is the newer one has a hi res screen. I actually rather liked the volume knob on the low res one. I put the cupholder and GPS unit together, with double sided tape, like this: You can also mount the cupholder on top, like this: I chose to go with the bottom fit, because I don't really like cups placed that high, and the bottom fit actually takes up a few mm less in height, which gives a better fit in the horseshoe frame. Speaking of frame, it's cut up, like this: There was a lip on the inner aspect of the lower border, this was cut to make room to increase the height. This, together with some slight sanding of the bottom of the cupholder was all that's required to make the height of the combo fit just right. Incredibly lucky! Note, you must get rid of the lower lip much as you can. Or the cupholder would be clamped too tight between the frame and the GPS, and it doesn't open when clamped tight. In the above picture, you can see I turned the OEM metal bracket around. This was necessary as the cupholder doesn't extend as deep as the OEM stereo, so the bracket support needs to come forward. You need to drill a hole in the original bracket to allow this. The reason will be very apparent when you actually do this. Here is a close up of the reversed bracket: The GPS antenna is simply placed near the alarm cover. Remove the alarm cover first, thread the GPS wire through, then just fish for it through the horseshoe frame. No need to remove anything else to place the GPS antenna. The thick wire attached to the GPS wire is the loom for my Head-Up-Display (another mod, for another day) :) The rest of the wiring here, with the unit ready to be pushed in: Here is the test fit: You can see that I will need a "n" shaped bezel to fill out the gap. This was obtained by modifying the Passat bezel that came with the GPS. The width is an exact fit, just like the cupholder (maybe 1mm longer, but I just left it). So I just sanded down the top border of the frame. And cut off the bottom border. I don't have a picture with the bottom border removed, only with the thinned top border: Press it in, it's a snug fit, not even sticky taped. And voooowwlaahhh!!!! OEM look!! From afar: With cupholder open: With a large "cup": In summary, get a genuine Jetta cupholder and an aftermarket Passat double DIN GPS! (not affliated with the seller/s, I promise) :)
  50. 1 point
    Bill_SoCal

    Anyone in 100k mile club

    2003 Boxster - Purchased new in December '02 with mileage from the Port to my dealer here in So Cal (17 miles). I just changed my oil at 135,000 miles yesterday. I've only performed standard maintenance and do most of it myself: Oil and Filter (Amsoil 5W-40/Mahle Filter) every 15K Front Brakes - 60K Drive Belt - 60K Front and Rear Brakes - 120K Drive Belt - 120K Clutch as not been replaced on the vehicle. I have had to have my key reprogrammed on a couple of occasions over the years. I also had to purchase the shroud that must be removed to fill the transaxle twice due to road debris. I drive the car daily here in Southern California and drive a windy mountain road called the Ortega Highway to get from Southern California Wine Country to Orange County. I seem to replace the rear tires every 25K to 35K (I dumped the Pilots on my first tire change for a better wearing tire). Fronts about every two sets of rear tires. Best car I've every owned. It's my daily driver and runs incredible. Other than rock chips on the front from Southern California freeways, you would think the car had 20K miles on it. I just got in from the store...top is down and it's a beautiful day here today. Must be back in the 80's...heading back out to grab some carne asada for the barbecue. B) All the best, Bill_SoCal (Murrieta, CA) 2003 Boxster 2006 Cayenne 2008 Cayenne S
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