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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/20/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    To lay a couple of false "old wives' tale" to rest, the use of thread lubricants like ARP Ultra Torque, penetrating fluids, or anti seize will never cause fasteners to come loose; the only thing that causes that is the fact they were not torqued to the correct specs in the first place, or were dry or unclean when they were assembled. And before you ask, the use of any of these compounds will not cause over torqueing of the fasteners, but the assembly of dry or rusted fasteners will cause under torqueing and the potential for fasteners to come loose at a later time.
  2. 2 points

    2000 C2 owner and PCA support of 996's

    Recently PCA posted attempt to accommodate 996 owners who may be frustrated with value and IMS controversy. We're aware of the class action suit won against Porsche regarding the original IMS. Also, it's recommended that we replace the original IMS anyway and don't know how to determine if it was defective to begin with. There's a company publishing on Facebook, believe called Gearheads, that put the 996's as one of 8 sports cars that, if bought, should be done with extreme caution. Some of PCA comments included that maybe 1 of 10 996's may experience IMS failure (local dealer told me maybe 1 of 100 and part of problem due to lack of mileage accumulation) and 9 of10 potential buyers have issues with IMS controversy. Not very helpful from my perspective. Another engineering problem is with pinion gear in 2d gear of manual tranny. I've replaced IMS and installed new tranny. Assume there were at least 50k of this model sold and, if so, a lot of potentially frustrated owners. Acknowledge that some non 996 owners response might be we had a choice. MY car's been for sale and can only tell prospective buyer the replacement IMS warranty was only for 30 days. I'm preparing to discuss this at future PCA meets and seeking comments.
  3. 1 point

    Auto Transmission Fluid change

    I was able to confirm that the Cayenne (958) 8-speed auto/Tip box is made by Aisin in Japan. I wonder if the OE fluid supplier is a European or Japanese company? My search continues
  4. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 6925
  5. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 4264
  6. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Auto Transmission Fluid change

    I just love it when people in their inexorable quest to try and save a buck buying cheap unknown spec lubricants for their $100K vehicles rather than getting the correct products; it is logic like this that keeps independent shops in business, repairing the damage.
  7. 1 point

    Heater controls not working

    Common problem, the servo motors that work the flaps for the a/c system go bad. Older posts show that the worm gear pops out of place and newer motors have a better design. You can find more info in the link below.
  8. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 6521
  9. 1 point

    Turbo s won't stay running and misfiring

    Thank you for the reply! I'm back outside now working on it after dropping the kids off at school. This morning started it and usually cold start great and with the air pumps running it runs great but as soon as they shut off, there goes down the idle which further tells me of a leak. Also I heard some sucking noise from the aos and I pushed on the lid and it stopped. Tell tale sign of a questionable diaphragm? I'll pull the off and inspect it here in the next few minutes and visually try to inspect those hoses you referred to and I will check the check valves for proper flow and seal. Quick note, I just saw on my new coils. Part number - 980 602 904 03. The ones I pulled out were 948 xxxxx 07 and 08. These new ones are all 980 number with 01-03 on the end. I google searched and they came up as 06 turbo s fitment but doesn't seem to be what everyone else is running. Could thst pose a issue as well? Thank you for your help
  10. 1 point

    Boxster OEM dash switches

    Thanks Jeff. Just looked at the price of a dash swithc (~50 from Sunset) and decided that was too much
  11. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 6560
  12. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 0809
  13. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Corroded Muffler Bolts

    Sometimes you have to cut the bolts away and press out or drill out the stubs and replace them. Other times you can cut away just the nut and stave the studs. When they really get nasty, like daily drivers in the Northeast with tons of salt on the road, you don't have a choice. Some have taken to replacing them with stainless steel.
  14. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 7207
  15. 1 point

    Heater controls not working

    Thanks Matt, I'll give that a go
  16. 1 point

    Heater controls not working

    Go on pelican parts diy for the blower motor and it tells which other part likely goes bad. It's usually the AC/heater regulator. Easy fix. Might also consider doing the blower motor while you're in there. Took me all of 10 minutes. Hope this helps, Matt 2009 Cayenne S
  17. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 9103
  18. 1 point

    stutter and hesitation if fuel level above 1/4 tank!

    The following, from elsewhere, may be relevant:- Okay, my car is fixed! As you predicted, ashy, there was a short circuit that was causing the coil packto overheat. The mechanic deduced this not only from the melting coil pack, but also because there was a fuse that kept blowing. He put a bulb in place of the fuse and fiddled around with the wiring until he found the likely location of the short circuit based on how much the bulb lit up. I wouldn't have thought of that myself in a month of Sundays! It was really interesting for me to watch him work and very reassuring that I was getting a good job and not getting ripped off. Once he figured out that the short was caused by some of the injector wires chaffing on a pipe (I guess maybe part of the cooling system) he cut out the damaged sections of the wires (there were three that had been worn through to the threads) and soldered in new sections. He tied all the wires back up and then made sure that they wouldn't chafe on the pipe again. He reckoned somebody put it back incorrectly when replacing the head gasket. As soon as that was fixed and he fitted the new coil pack, my engine ran like a beauty! I think the problem must have been gradually getting worse because I always used to have to give it some throttle when turning the ignition but now it starts with a simple turn of the key. There is minial vibration and not the slightest hint of a misfire.
  19. 1 point

    Ignition Switch

    The ignition switch on a 997/987 is universal, keys of another 997/987 will fit also but will not become effective by the built-in transponder which is specificially linked to the vehicle. The key blade,however, is specific to the door lock.
  20. 1 point

    Engine Warm Up

    My 2004 Boxster base also takes a while to warm up, about 5-7 minutes to start getting warm air while the temp is set to HI. It's not a daily driver, just weekends and nights out so it gets a good workout when I "do" use it. My 2016 Dodge Caravan also takes the same amount of time to warm up, but my previous 3 cars got me warm air in only one mile, and hot air after another mile!
  21. 1 point
    You can just clean the bolt with brake cleaner and apply some antiseize.
  22. 1 point

    Did I needlessly replace coils/plugs?

    We have become so used to plugs with a long life it's easy to forget that these things take a real pounding. I can still remember when it was routine to change plugs at 10K miles and do ignition points at 3k miles. Really, it's never wasted money changing plugs and as the ignition coils are in such hostile location in terms of exhaust heat and surface water I am really surprised they last so long.
  23. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 1087
  24. 1 point

    Mystery Part?

    It is an outside air temperature sensor I believe, and should clip just behind the grill.
  25. 1 point

    Windows Won't Close With Soft Top Up

    Hi Guys, My 1999 Boxster has had it's hardtop on all winter, and now that Spring has sprung and the sun is shining I naturally took it off.... and found a problem: When the soft top is closed and the clamp fastened, the windows stay open a few inches and refuse to close. They will go fully down, but not fully up. When the soft top is fully retracted (or the hard top is in place) the windows function correctly. When the hard top is on and I undo the clamp, the windows drop a few inches correctly... so the microswitch above the rear view mirror seems to be working. I proved this by pressing it with my finger then trying to retract the soft top- the soft top stays put as it should. So what is the cause of the problem? Is there more than one microswitch in the system (probably yes, there must be something that tells the soft top when it's reached the fully retracted position)? And / or is there some logic board controlling everything that's blown? If I can't figure this out then I'll have to live with the hard top on all summer (and summers only last a few days in the UK so the situation is desperate!)
  26. 1 point
    the head


    Am I imagining things or are there no mass air sensors like there are in the 955s?
  27. 1 point

    Valve cover gaskets replacement

    I just started replacing my valve cover gaskets and have one done already. I know your post is from 2 years ago but I would like to thank you. The pictures you posted of the cut down torx bit and the A/C plug were instrumental in me keeping my sanity during this project.
  28. 1 point

    Cayenne heating wheel problem

    Hello, I'm the new one. I try to solve the problem with my steering wheel heating. In VIN code i have 2PH, but steering wheel is always cold. I live in mountain and at this moment temp. shows -1 deg. When I start the engine car's need 30 sec. to warm the mirrors maybe less but why steering wheel is cold?? I try to found fuse for this. I checked all fuse list but I can't find it. Maybe some one has the same problem and know the answer.
  29. 1 point


    After recently buying a 955 with the V8 which is whisper quiet with a full history, I decided it was a good idea to change the oil, filter and the plugs as it had only moved 400 miles in six months. The oil was a suggested Mobil 1 0w40 and the plugs are as identified by the reg plate. However, the Bosch super 4's that came out were R6 (resistance) and the BERU 4's were R5. ive not noticed a loss of power - but HAVE noticed a drop in my mpg figures. from 17-19 down to possibly 13-14. anybody else experienced this, the oil level is correct with a quality synthetic filter by K&N and the spark plugs were torqued to just on 22 ft/lbs. appreciate any feedback on your experiences.
  30. 1 point


    I just put in the same Bosch plugs last week. Blue right? I was concerned as well about my old green plugs having an R5 vs the newer one's R6 stamped on them. Called Bosch yesterday and a tech promptly returned my call. The R number is simply ohm resistance (reduce electrical interference) and nothing to worry about. As far as decreased MPG. Yes. I live in Chicago and cold air can reduce MPG by as much as 20%. It's subzero right now... 2009 Cayenne S
  31. 1 point
    I will be doing an IMS this spring. Count on me to repurchase when you find one and finish up. March, April? '99 double row Thanks! Jim
  32. 1 point

    Opening the hood with a dead battery

    When I went to pull the fuse panel in order to apply power to the studs, I saw this little red slider with a hood icon on it. I pulled it out and simply attached 12v to it and popped my hood. Thank you clever Porsche engineers.
  33. 1 point

    High oil shear

    Agree. And if you run the car in the powerband above the 4,500 rpm's during spirited driving. My cars see a lot of 4,500-6,500 rpm fun.
  34. 1 point

    Door glass auto drop down

    Sometimes it helps to go through the window "relearning" process. If that doesn't change anything, then probably is the microswitch. Roll window all the way down and hold the button for 10-15 seconds. Roll window all the way up and continue to hold button for 10-15 seconds.
  35. 1 point

    Review: Stealth Bulbs

    Nice write-up, Hayyan, this will help future uses of this site. But your math is way off!!:) OEM 194 bulb = $4.5 Stealth bulb = $28.99 Difference = $24.49 = 544% MORE!! OEM 7507 bulb = $4.5 Stealth bulb = $29 Difference = $24.5 = 544% MORE!! OEM 7506 bulb = $9.25 Stealth bulb = $29 Difference = $19.75 = 213.5% MORE!!! I am usinf what the "cool kids" call new math.
  36. 1 point
    Ok update finally here: Starter suffered a complete failure. It jammed the flywheel. Fortunately I kept the old starter rather than get the core charge. So, I greased the old starter, removed the failed starter, inspected the flywheel for any damage and reinstalled the old one. Started and runs fine. Thanks for all the great tips and help!
  37. 1 point

    "New" 2014 Cayenne GTS owner

    1. Normal 2. Spare in a can - liquid sealant you'd need if you didn't have a spare. Since you DO have a spare.. the hole remains empty. I store my trailer wiring adaptor in it. BTW - the wheel pin that threads into a lug-bolt hole - making it easier to put a tire on or off - is hidden under the jack. I now have two since I expected it to be somewhere obvious, and when it wasn't - I bought one.
  38. 1 point

    Anyone know how to remove IAC Valve ?

    Personally I like to remove the whole throttle body and the clean the throttle buttery front and back. As well remove the IAC being protective of the paper gasket and clean it until it moves freely. If it does not move freely it will need to be replaced. Here is a DIY article that pretty much covers it (though it is an egas car).
  39. 1 point

    High mile role call

    2004 C4S Cab 6 speed that just turned 110,000. Is running great with good mileage, and no oil consumption. Bought it 3 years ago with 80,000 on it. Recently had Clutch, IMS, and water pump replaced. Best driving car yet is great on long trips!
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point

    OEM Porsche Antifreeze/Coolant

    The "Porsche anti-freeze" issue has been here for discussion since 2003 - and WE HAVE ALWAYS SAID "Don’t mix different types of antifreeze." I don't care who else has said that -- it still holds true. I will close this topic now since the original posters question (in 2005) has been answered and no new information has been presented to change the answer here.
  42. 1 point
    Hello Everyone, Here’s a quick tutorial (PDF w. pics at the bottom of the page) on: Replacing the Coolant Temperature Sensor on a 2004 Cayenne S without Removing the Intake Manifold Applicable models: Cayenne S (2003-2008), Cayenne Turbo (2003-2008) Symptoms: faulty temperature gauge, engine cold at touch even after driving, really loud (like jet engine noise) radiator cooling fans blowing cold air thru the air ducts, code P3081. The truck has about 105k miles. The coolant pipes have been changed at 74k miles and the coolant reservoir at 95k miles. On both occasions the system has been bled, vacuum tested and refilled with new coolant/distilled water mix, under pressure, using Uview AirLift tool, thus eliminating the risk of air being trapped in the circuit. The process is pretty straightforward, but I wanted to share a few tips on how to get around the problems that might arise. Although removing the intake manifold would make the job easier, I chose this pathway due to time limitations and mostly because of the weather. Plus removing the manifold has its own downsides: it would take way longer, plastic lines that crack, fasteners hard to access or stuck, gaskets on the manifold and throttle body that would need replacement, etc. Hope this helps. Parts needed: 1) Coolant Temperature Sensor 996-606-410-00 Tools needed: For Secondary air pump removal/install: 1) 3/8 T40 torx socket 2) 3/8 1-1/2" extension (optional) 3) 3/8 ratchet 4) 3/8 torque wrench 5-80 ft.lb range For Coolant temperature sensor removal/install 1) 1/2 22mm (6pt) deep socket 2) 1/2 3" extension bar 3) 1/2 universal joint 4) 1/2 10" extension bar 5) 1/2 ratchet 6) 3/8 1/2"adapter 7) 3/8 torque wrench Wear gloves, coolant is toxic. The job must be done with the engine cold. Depressurize the system by opening the reservoir cap (only after the engine has cooled down). You can choose to drain the coolant reservoir before removing the sensor, as coolant will start gushing out of the sensor’s mounting hole. I chose not to. I dropped a clean rag in the valley, right next to the sensor, and I covered the hole with it while swapping the new part in, as quickly as I could. I lost maybe 1/2 quart of coolant. For that same reason, I chose not to bleed/pressurize/refill the system again, as the loss was pretty insignificant and the coolant is relatively new. I just topped the reservoir up with fresh coolant/distilled water mix, and monitored for any discrepancies, smells, leaks. After replacing the temp sensor, I cleared the P3081 code So far, I can report that the temp gauge came back to life, never passed the 180° mark, the radiator fans are silent again, heat works fine, the engine feels warm all around, and the P3081 hasn’t returned. 1. Here’s the new coolant temp sensor vs. old sensor 996-606-410-00 (washer is included) 2. Location. On the left side (passenger) of the engine, right behind the intake manifold (upper left corner, next to fastener no. 5, the last one on that bank). 3. Remove the plastic covers by turning the plastic retainers until they release (mine were off already so I don’t have pics, but it’s pretty straightforward). 4. Remove the Secondary Air Pump. First unplug the vacuum hose (yellow arrow), then unscrew and remove the three T40 torx screws (red arrows), and finally, pull the electrical connector up and unplug it (green arrow). 5. Pull the plug off the sensor. This part here is a little challenging. I reached the sensor with my left hand, from the top, and gently squeezed the top end of the plastic tab, towards the wire harness, and pulled up at the same time. It came off rather easily, but finding the right position to get a proper hold of it was a bit of an issue. Be careful here, you absolutely do not want to damage that connector. All the wires are 10+ years old, exposed to heat, elements and stuff, so approach with caution. Here is the sensor with the electrical connector removed. Notice the hose that goes on top of the sensor, it is gonna make it pretty difficult to align your socket and the first extension. I managed to bring down the 22mm socket with my left hand and then slowly adjust it on top of the sensor while pulling the hose towards the front of the engine The problem is that given the height of the sensor, a deep socket is absolutely necessary, but that leaves almost no room to align your sockets and extensions. Here’s the removed sensor. I flipped the picture upside down to show how the socket fits the sensor when in the engine. Notice that the socket grabs the sensor just a little below its top rim. That’s why the 1/2 22 mm deep socket is a must. I don’t think a 3/8 deep would work here. 6. To Remove Sensor: This is the order of tools going into the engine, one by one, on top of each other: 1) 22mm 6pt deep socket 1/2 2) 1/2 3" extension bar 3) 1/2 universal joint 4) 1/2 10" extension bar 5) 1/2 ratchet This is how it looked like: 7. Once the sensor breaks loose, turn once or twice and stop. Remove your sockets and extensions one by one, get a clean rag next to the sensor and follow unscrewing it by hand. Also, make sure you have the new sensor at hand’s reach, ready to go in. You should practice reaching in and out a few times using your best route of access, so that when you do the swap, you do it as quickly as possible. As you keep unscrewing, coolant is gonna start leaking out (given the diameter of the sensor, I don’t think there would be a massive coolant loss, but anyway, the less the better, not just for the obvious reasons, but also because it would be impossible to clean it up). Remove the sensor completely out of its mounting hole and cover the hole with the rag. Quickly bring the new sensor in, remove the rag and screw it in by hand. Make sure the washer that attached to the new sensor stays in place. Tighten it by hand and then re-insert all the tools back in, one by one, as it follows: To Install new sensor: 1) 22mm 6pt deep socket 1/2 2) 1/2 3" extension bar 3) 1/2 universal joint 4) 1/2 10" extension bar 5) 3/8 1/2"adapter* 6) 3/8 torque wrench* *not used in removing of sensor Tightening torque for coolant sensor: 30Nm (22ftlb.) 8. Reinstall the Secondary Air Pump on Bank 1 (electric plug, vacuum hose, and the tree T40 torx screws). Tightening torque for the screws: 10Nm (7.5ftlb.) 9. Top reservoir with coolant, and screw the cap on until it clicks. 10. Reinstall plastic beauty covers. 11. Using a code reader, clear all the codes you may have had. 12. Start it up and observe for leaks, smells, while closely monitoring the temperature gauge. (*As I warmed up the engine, whatever coolant leaked down by the firewall released a small puff of steam that went away within seconds). Good luck!
  43. 1 point
    This has been covered before, but it can be done using a 4" diameter plastic pipe coupler (has a ridge half way down the inside that the old flywheel bolt heads can rest on, then tighten slowly in a crosswise pattern to pull it in evenly.) The trick to getting the new design PTFE seal to work where the older design did not is being absolutely scrupulously clean, not even finger prints on any parts, and no sealant of any kind. You also have to install it at an unusual depth, 13MM from the flywheel mating surface of the crank, not 14MM.
  44. 1 point

    High mile role call

    154k miles. 996 C2 registered 1997. No service book, and I just bought the car so I have no idea really if it is the original engine still.
  45. 1 point

    Cayenne S Transmission valve body HELP

    Your commercial signature has been removed. Please re-read the board Guidelines/Rules that you agree to when you registered here. "· No commercial posting, signatures, user names, avatars, or profile statements (including images) are allowed. Please understand "advertisements" will be either edited or deleted, as it's neither "fair" to those who support this site - nor "us", the RennTech.org community.· No personal soliciting of any kind for products, services, or funds."
  46. 1 point

    How to Remove the Front Bumper

    I did this over the weekend, so I videotaped it. My apologies for the narration. I need to not drink beer while editing. Hope this helps somebody.
  47. 1 point

    Rear Storage / Speaker Compartment Mod

    I have modified the rear storage compartment to handle two (2) 5" subs and two (2) 4" speakers. I will be using Focal speakers, the 5" 13KS subs and a pair or 4" 100CA. The Focal 5" subs are the best sounding subs that I've ever heard. I have spent weeks cutting and shaping this compartment and its finally ready to make the master mold. I will be selling these Rear Speaker/Sub Boxes in the very near future if anyone is interested. They will have a gelcoat finish and I'll make a few colors. I have attached a couple of photo's of the prototype so you can see what it looks like.
  48. 1 point

    Washer fluid Reservoir.. how to remove/find leak

    You need to remove the three bolts (items 9 and 7).
  49. 1 point

    More Power

    Forget aftermarket trash for the 996 Carrera. You'll only waste fortunes getting very little power for a lot of outlay and make the car impossible to sell - Porsche buyers seem to be particularly anal about original spec. etc. In reality there is nowhere to go with this engine apart from supercharging which is very expensive. Intake kits simply don't work. Mufflers give 2-3 BHP at best - the rest is lies. Headers, 200-Cell cats and mufflers with a re-map will give you 15 BHP absolute max. Porsche's own power kit requires gas-flowed heads, headers and intake plenums plus much more aggressive cams and mapping just for 25 more BHP. Even then the performance of the cars when measured is almost no different - go figure! Every reputable tuner will tell you there is no real extra power to be had from the M96 engine. One thing it does like however is very high octane gas. Put 99-100 RON in the tank and reset your DME. You'll be surprised. By far the better route would be to sell the car and put the hard-earned towards a Turbo. Even stock, a Turbo has way more performance than you could ever realisitcally and reliably achieve from tweaking a Carrera. And of course, the Turbo CAN be tweaked enormously for modest outlay by virtue of being able to increase the boost pressure. Ian W
  50. 1 point

    More Power

    Nothing for 3 grand... What are you're options? Well over 3k option SC for 10K Porsche's Power kit (forget the price, I think roughly 8k) More than 3k alternative Intake, Header, Exhaust, ECU...won't get you 350 but you'll have spent $$$ like it should have. Less unsprung weight in wallet will equal faster car. 3k Alternative Lightweight flywheel...won't improve HP but it will improve acceleration (maybe it will feel like 350) Downside is that introduces more noise and labor is equal to doing a clutch job.