Jump to content
×
×

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Does anyone have access to a 2004 Cayenne S wiring diagram? My interior lights will not come on. Fuse 12 was blown, and it blew again immediately upon replacement. Now it seems to not have blown but no lights come on. I'm trying to find the branches that come off of fuse 12 in the drivers side dashboard.
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    I put Ben's kit (google it) and it made a noticeable difference in throw and feel. Nice kit and easy DIY.
  4. 1 point
    +1. Mine has been in the car for 18 years.
  5. 1 point
    I have the B&M short shifter (in car version) and it has worked great for 15 plus years.
  6. 1 point
    Phil, Here is the xlsx file pin comparison. Engine side (Cable end attachment to the engine) Car Side (Cable end attachment to the car) Thanks, XR Porsche Boxster 7.2 to 7.8 DME Pin Comparison.xlsx
  7. 1 point
    So I replaced my throttle body on the weekend and did the reset on it, started it up. Ran great for 2 days. Last night on the way home the idle started to drop off then jump up and stabilize, but the car was still responsive. This morning started ok, idled a little rough, then after a few 100 meters the unresponsiveness started up again. Same exact problem I had before. Items replaced to date: ignition switch, cam sensors and throttle body. I would appreciate any input on possible next steps. It must be something electrical/intermittent because it comes and goes? Could it be my MAF sensor? gas pedal? ignition coil? fuel injectors? Is there a way to determine what is happening with my Durametric?
  8. 1 point
    This is an old post but I can tell you for sure that you will need new maps to update your PCM to from 1.47 to anything newer. I have first hand experience with this.
  9. 1 point
    We did this for all Carrera variations so it's time we added for the Boxster's too. Measure the position of the logo with a measuring tape according to the model variant and affix it to the rear lid. Logo Boxster -- 3 A dimension X = 285 mm and Y = 45 mm Logo Boxster S -- 3 A in connection with the letter S dimension X = 245 mm and Y = 45 mm Logo S -- 3 B dimension Z = 20 mm and V = 40 mm
  10. 1 point
    Valentine One Hardwire to Homelink The following procedure was used to hard wire a Valentine 1 detector into my 2006 Cayenne using the Homelink as the power source. Hardware: T-20 Torx head screwdriver (magnetic recommended) T-25 Torx head screwdriver Needlenose Pliers Flat Blade Screwdriver Pocket Knife Electrical Tape Hardwire kit from V1 Multimeter (recommended) Procedure Remove roof console Start by removing the two screws behind the sunglass holder with the T-20 Torx screwdriver: Next, remove the lens over the lights on the front of the console (I was able to pry this out with my fingernails, if you are not so equipped, I recommend a flat blade screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape) There are two more T-20 screws that need to be removed: Locate and tap into the Homelink power source There are three wires leading into the Homelink module – two red wires and one brown wire. At this point it is recommended to test these wires with a voltmeter/multimeter to make sure you are about to tap into the correct wire. Using a pocket knife (scissors on a Swiss Army knife works best), remove the tape holding the wires together so you can get enough room for the V1 wiring harness connector: Position the V1 wiring harness connector around the selected wire and squeeze closed using the needlenose pliers. Wire power adapter Plug the red wire from the power adapter (with the RJ-11 phone jack) into the harness connector. Next, using a T-25 screwdriver, loosen the screw holding the sunroof module to the frame enough to get the blades from the black wire of the power adapter under the screw head. Re-tighten the screw to ground the power adapter. If this is not available, you will need to test for a suitable ground screw using a voltmeter/multimeter. Plug in and test Plug the provided phone cord into the power adapter, and feed the other end of the cable through the space between the headliner and the windshield. Be sure to feed enough cord to reach your chosen detector location. Plug in the detector and turn the ignition key to “on.” If the detector is on, it should go through the power-up test. Turning the key off with the detector powered on should turn off the detector. Completing installation After successfully testing the detector operation, attach the power adapter to the vehicle using the Velcro/adhesive on the adapter and placing any extra cord under the headliner, out of the way. Put the roof console back, but do not replace the screws until one last test of all the switches and detector operation has been performed. Once everything has been checked, replace the T-20 screws and the lens over the console lights. Here is the finished installation: Author MomentumGuy Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Mods Submitted 12/04/2005 09:45 AM  
  11. 1 point
    Thanks to Coloradocurt, he sent me new dimensions that worked well for his RMS installation. Here's an updated picture in case anyone wishes to request similar part from a shop. 996-rms-model-dimensions.pdf
  12. 1 point
    I'm reading into your comments that the tight fit you mention was between the crankshaft's diameter and the tool, and not necessarily between the tool and the crankcase (although I haven't yet measured the crankcase). Working on my back under the car and using my calipers, I measured the diameter of the crankshaft to be 3.340", leaving only about a 0.014" clearance to your 85.2mm dimension. Might be a bit too tight for easy (yet still error-free) use. 0.01433" or 0.364mm clearance is tight but that is what my caliper says to me. In any case please use your own judgement here, measuring with a caliper is somewhat error prone. I does not hurt to use a bit more clearance. Also, you can always bring the first version back to the shop and ask them to take another 0.1 - 0.2mm off, but that of course takes more time.. There is also the matter of thermal expansion to think of (metal vs nylon). I just checked the ID on the case, and I get 104.7mm (again, lying on my back under the car using calipers). Relative to the 104.8mm OD dimension you gave for the tool, that's an even tighter fit than to the crankshaft. Given that the plastic pipe coupler suggested earlier has those two dimensions nowhere that could even be considered 'tight,' I see the challenge for this job one of getting the seal installed to that 13mm depth accurately around the full circumference - which your 'nylon' installation should succeed at very nicely. With a bit a care during the installation process by gently tapping the tool on the end in a curcular pattern - going round and round so as to keep the new seal relatively perpendicular to the crankshaft centerline until the tool bottoms out against the end of the crankshaft - that ought to be relatively easy to accomplish. I plan to relax your two dimensions (the 104.8mm and the 85.2mm) to provide about 4-5mm of clearance.
  13. 1 point
    Dave, As Silver said, it should not be too difficult to track down the problem(s). All you need is a $15 multimeter. Run your engine till warm and the low voltage shows up, then let it idle and turn on the a/c and the low beam. The current draw from the alternator should now be ~50A. You can then do the following tests. I drew a diagram with the corresponding parts. Test #1: check voltage drop between point "C" (alternator casing) and "B-" (call that V(C, B-)). Note "B+' and "B-" are the actual battery terminals, not the cable connectors on the terminals. This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the ground side. Expect 0.2v or less. If your ground strap is bad, it will show up in this test. Test #2: check V(A, B+) where "A" = alternator output at the back of the alternator that you can't see (use an inspection mirror) and expect ~0.5v or less. "A" is hard to get to. I fabricated a J-shape hook using a stiff insulated wire and just literally probe it blindly from behind. Wear protective goggles here since you will be close to the drive belt, a hot engine, and the always LIVE "A". This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the power side. Test #3: check V(A, J) and expect ~0.2v. This tests #21, which is the infamous cable that can corrode and Porsche has also revised it. Test #4: check V(J, B+) and expect ~0.3v or less. Test #5: check V(A, C), your alternator output and expect 13.5v or higher. Your problem is gonna show up in one of the tests above.
  14. 1 point
    :welcome: It is up under the left front fender. Just remove the wheel and the wheel well lining - everything will then be visible.
  15. 1 point
    Vincent, I just got her running and it was the Pulse Sender (aka Crankshaft Position Sensor) and it is called a "Impulse sender" at Pelican Parts. Odd I had no faults on the Durametric? Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total --------- ---------- -------- ---------- 986-606-112-02-M14 $131.75 1 $131.75 Impulse Sender, Boxster 986 (1997-2004), Brand: Bosch -m
  16. 1 point
    Gentlemen, '97 Boxster 2.5, 6 speed, Guards Red, 200k km (123k miles) on the clock yesterday. (Previous exact same model with 249k km (154k miles) on clock before a taxi drove right in front of me from a side road and the car was totalled) Had the engine replaced @18k km (11k miles) under Porsche warrenty (porous block problem) (Both cars) Normal Porsche services by Porsche SA every 30k km. (18k miles) Replaced all 4 brake discs @ 100k km (62k miles) (Both cars same at same km's) Replaced coolant expansion bottle @ 100k km (62k miles) (Both cars at same km's) Replaced front radiator fans @ 159k km's (hot here in South Africa) Replaced Climate control fan @ 159k km's (hot here in South Africa) Tyres, brake pads and that is that! Cheapest cars I have ever owned. Trying to get to 300k km's dodging taxi's and other strange occurances on SA's roads. (potholes the size of California, donkey's, bicycles, rocks, gunmen, street vendors etc... lol.) But it is time now for the 3.4 996 engine! Regards Pieter.
  17. 1 point
    My '99 986 is at around 113K. Bought it with 50K, it's my daily driver. Unfortunately my luck has not been so good, though I still love the car and think it's totally worth it. In addition to normal maintainence (sp?) like pads a few times, front and rear rotors, oil changes, normal filter changes, rear tires x 2, front tires x 1, I replaced: 1. Emergency brake sensor-cheap 2. Convertible top push rod-cheap 3. New roof-not cheap, but I was victim of burglary. Jerks. 4. Coolant reservoir-not cheap 5. Key battery-cheap 6. Plugs and coils-mostly cheap 7. Some kind of oil seal-not cheap 8. Lights in instrument cluster-cheap All in all, Boxster experience totally worth it. I'd say the experience, just like marriage, has been not cheap, but certainly enriching. Since repairs were expensive I learned to do many things myself, and that has been great. Really helps you appreciate automotives and get into the excitement of the Porsche community when you're exploring your own car, fixing your own stuff. Great in beautiful weather, adequate in rain, crummy in snow, expensive to fix, but worth it! B
  18. 1 point
    i've got a 97 (197,000 miles) with a 99 engine (dont know miles)(replaced engine due to a supercharger explosion on sebring!) some bits and pieces replaced, repaired and upgraded to keep it going. all in all, has held up very well, the guy i bought it from drove it hard as do i.
  19. 1 point
    This is fantastic! It's great to hear how well these cars can perform. I am a believer in preventative maintenance. The simple things like oil changes, filters, etc. Take care of your baby and it will give you many years and miles of joy. Congrats! -pvaughan
  20. 1 point
    Bry: The washer tank, motor, and lines are easily accessible and viewable if you remove the black plastic inner fender liner. You can get a good look just by removing the liner from where it is attached to the rear part of the driver's side front wheel well. The fasteners are self-explanatory, but it sometimes takes a little extra effort to pull the liner out of the inner lip of the fender at first. Regards, Maurice.
  21. 1 point
    Forgot...three window regulators R/H side, two window regulators L/H
  22. 1 point
    2003 Boxster - Purchased new in December '02 with mileage from the Port to my dealer here in So Cal (17 miles). I just changed my oil at 135,000 miles yesterday. I've only performed standard maintenance and do most of it myself: Oil and Filter (Amsoil 5W-40/Mahle Filter) every 15K Front Brakes - 60K Drive Belt - 60K Front and Rear Brakes - 120K Drive Belt - 120K Clutch as not been replaced on the vehicle. I have had to have my key reprogrammed on a couple of occasions over the years. I also had to purchase the shroud that must be removed to fill the transaxle twice due to road debris. I drive the car daily here in Southern California and drive a windy mountain road called the Ortega Highway to get from Southern California Wine Country to Orange County. I seem to replace the rear tires every 25K to 35K (I dumped the Pilots on my first tire change for a better wearing tire). Fronts about every two sets of rear tires. Best car I've every owned. It's my daily driver and runs incredible. Other than rock chips on the front from Southern California freeways, you would think the car had 20K miles on it. I just got in from the store...top is down and it's a beautiful day here today. Must be back in the 80's...heading back out to grab some carne asada for the barbecue. B) All the best, Bill_SoCal (Murrieta, CA) 2003 Boxster 2006 Cayenne 2008 Cayenne S
  23. 1 point
    The wire you want is the one farther towards the center of the console, i.e., not the one nearer towards the edge. tmc Beautiful, beautiful post! Just finished the install on an '06 CTTS and it was as easy as pie. Thanks for the efforts behind the post! I LOVE RENNTECH.ORG!
  24. 1 point
    The wire you want is the one farther towards the center of the console, i.e., not the one nearer towards the edge. tmc
  25. 1 point
    I type so slow there are 6 new messages before my last one. This is the levers removed from the door sill. Yellow lines are to the locking cam that you need to rotate out of position if that is the problem.
  • RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up
×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.