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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Richard Hamilton

    PCM 3.0 Nav Update

    The navigation system update is done by DVDs in the head unit. It depends on the initial software version you have, but there are up to 3 updates required before the latest maps will run. The software updates can take up to an hour to run. (Note that after the updates, old map data will not run). After the system is updated, an Activation Code is entered using PIWIS2 or PIWIS3. (The Activation Code is based on the VIN, and comes from the Porsche online PIWIS system). Then the map data is loaded from DVDs. On PCM3.0 it takes around 40 minutes per map DVD. In Europe there are 4 DVDs. PCM3.1 updates are quicker, as they have a faster DVD drive.
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 9308
  5. 1 point
    Mijostyn

    Semi Solid Engine Mounts

    Well I did not fall for the Light weight fly wheel but I did fall for the transmission mount inserts, the softer ones. The problem I was trying to solve was with rapid transitions in power I could feel the engine banging around back there sort of like driveline lash. Everyone told me it was normal but I had never felt it in the 7 other 911s I had owned. They all said the motor mounts were fine. The one thing that most definitely went away with the stiffened motor mounts was the thunk-thunk I was getting on and off the power. The transmission mount stiffener by itself did not significantly increase the vibration in the car but it did change the sound seeming to lower it in frequency. The new stock motor mounts are on the way and I am hoping they will solve the thunk problem. You can "tune" the transmission mount inserts by trimming back the ears that insert into the slots in the mount. Guess I have nothing better to do.
  6. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Semi Solid Engine Mounts

    Same problem, the stiffer the mount, the more the vibration.
  7. 1 point
    Loren

    Starter to Alternator

    It should be pretty much the same though the part number for a Tip is: 997 607 018 04
  8. 1 point
    Loren

    2010 Cayenne Parking Sensors

    If you have Durametric you can run a fault check and see which sensor(s) or whether they are all reading on. Usually, it is just one or two sensors - so you just replace the bad ones.
  9. 1 point
    Loren

    CPS part Number

    Yes, it is a definite possibility.
  10. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    dme, alarm module, key swap

    Duncan is correct. As I understand it, the DME and immobilizer box have to both "handshake" (acknowledge each other) and then communicate certain data in order for the car to start; it takes a lot more than just some electrical current to make it happen, otherwise there would be a lot of missing Porsches............
  11. 1 point
    Ahsai

    dme, alarm module, key swap

    I think the immobilizer will be a joke if your theory works. There's a "W" lead single wire communication between the immobilizer and the DME. I suspect the DME relies on some higher layer protocol exchange with the immobilizer, and not by getting power on some pins (which could easily be defeated like you proposed).
  12. 1 point
    royp4

    driver window drop when door opens

    I replaced driver side window mechanism on my 2003 996 cab without disconnecting battery. Just disconnected airbag after removing door panel. Important to not have key in ignition when airbag is disconnected. It really is a diy. If I can do it anyone can. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
  13. 1 point
    RFM

    Boxster Roof Died... : ((

    987 no longer uses double relays for roof control, but two ordinary, one for up and one for down. The same position as i remember correctly.
  14. 1 point
    1st gear synchro issue? as an aside, older, air cooled Porsche cars did not have synchro for first gear. never needed 1st when racing was the philosophy. same for ignition key being on side of steering wheel opposite of shifter. one hand for key, other for shifter, saves a second or two when starting engine for racing from standing or parked positions. good luck with this.
  15. 1 point
    Uwon

    Porsche 996 Trouble getting into 1st gear

    ^^^^+1 Common issue. However, you may also want to consider the following; 1, how many miles on clutch and is the pedal effort getting harder? 2.what kind of driving on clutch? Track, highway, multiple drivers, city, etc. 3, have you recently changed the brake fluid and/or bled the slave cylinder? 4, have you recently checked or changed the trani oil? 5. Is your shifter sloppy? You may need new linkage components. 6. If you have not already done so, search this forum for similar issue. Do post your findings Cheers Johan
  16. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 6726
  17. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Track prep essentials

    Welcome to RennTech Joe Gibbs is a great street oil, but even Jake does not recommend it for track use. You should be looking at their XP9 or XP6 oils for track only use. I would also suggest using a 160F thermostat to help cool both the engine and the oil, which will help with oil frothing under track conditions. I would also highly recommend getting rid of the factory oil filter set up and using a spin on full flow design. Oil starvation is about oil control, as in keeping it where you want it rather than were it wants to be. Sump extensions help, as does the addition of an Accusump oil accumulator. Oil control in one of these engine's is an entire topic all by itself (these are Boxster installations, but the principals are the same):
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Richard Hamilton

    DRL hack/mod?

    Just to clarify, for anyone reading this in the future, on a 996 you can't code the lights for DRLs. All the lighting is hard wired, and there are no control units involved. The 9x7 series introduced the Front Control Unit for the lights (and other items) and the DRLs can be coded in that.
  20. 1 point
    mbfb

    Ski carrier

    Hello everyone from a new and very happy 996 4 owner :) Given the remarkable performance of the car in snow I have decided to purchase some roof bars and ski racks and I am now having some troubles in installing them. I bought a set of OEM bars which were never fitted by the previous owner and which I have installed with no hassle. The ski carrier, which I believe is part 95504400024, came with no box nor fitting instructions, and I can't figure out how to properly secure it to the bars. The ski carrier is fastened to the bar by the means of two metal plates, which slide in the bar and, I suppose, need to be tightened once in place. The external plate can be fastened by tightening the internal bolt with the supplied allen key, while the one on the other side can only be fastened by turning the plate itself, as the internal bolt is integral with the ski carrier. I have tried to slide the carrier in with the internal bolt as tight as possible, however, even after tightening the allen bolt, the carrier doesn't seem to be as tight as it should. The previous owner cannot help as he claims the carriers belonged to his late dad and the local Porsche dealer has no clue as he claims it is too old... Anyone who has experience with these ski holders? Thanks in advance for any help!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Loren

    Porsche 996 key remote doesn’t work

    Yes, registration and ID or Certificate of Title (and ID).
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Hi Richard, Well, I haven't been to Santa Cruz since June (by motorcycle..) if you wanted to drive to NJ - we could hook it up to my iCarScan and see what happens. The symptoms you're giving make me think the alarm system is reporting something unlocked - and letting you know with the funny door LED flash and the 4 way flashers. That's where a good diagnostics tool can be a lot of help - it can check each sensor and see what the body module thinks the state of it is. I'm going out to the garage to try something.. Back, lets see if I can remember what I saw: Normal operation - all doors closed, gas door closed - hit lock on the key, the LED on the door flickers, two chirps, then the LED flashes rapidly for 20 blinks (about 1/sec between blinks) then it switches into a slower blink mode (maybe 2-2.5/sec between blinks.) All doors closed - gas door open - same as the normal operation. It seemingly ignore the gas door.1 A passenger door partly latched - LED comes on solid for about 10 seconds, followed by pairs of blinks - about 1/2 second between the two in the pair, and about 2 seconds between each pair. So blink-blink, 2 seconds, blink-blink. No parking light flash, and no chirp. Drivers side door partly latched - it simply doesn't lock at all. What I didn't try is keeping the latch on the gas door from fully extending to the lock position - and my WAG is - that might be your problem. Since it doesn't care if the gas door is open or closed - it isn't monitoring the gas door position, but it might be monitoring the latch state of the solenoid that latches/locks the door closed. Just checked the manual - the rear body-control module is located "RIGHT SIDE OF REAR COMP" - but it has several outputs to the "TRUNK, TAILGATE, FUEL DOORS SYSTEM". Looking at the diagram for that circuit - the FRONT BODY CONTROL MODULE actually controls the ACTUATOR TANK COVER OPEN and ACTUATOR TANK COVER CLOSE outputs - which are interesting since there are just these two leads going to the TANK COVER ACTUATOR - no ground shown. That makes me think they reverse the voltage going to the actuator to have it open and close. The FRONT BODY CONTROL MODULE is located "LEFT SIDE OF DASH". The reason I'm zeroing in on filler latch assembly is - you hear noise in that area. There is nothing there that should be making noise. The rear body module has no relays that would click - it's solid-state switches - they make no noise. Something in that area is making noise, and the only thing I can think would do that is the filler latch assembly. It's located under the rubber and plastic surround around the gas filler and appears accessible without major disassembly. It may require that the hinge-assembly and surround be replaced if it's removed from the car. The manual isn't entirely clear on that. I just went and took a look at how it works. It's a spring loaded piston that rotates 1/4 turn between in and out. It engages and locks itself to the actual gas filler door as it retracts. When fully retracted some sort of catch keeps it that way, holding the gas filler door closed. When you open it - that catch releases, it pushes the gas door open about 1/2" and releases itself from the door. The lock on it must be when it's locked it doesn't release from the catch that keeps it retracted. Typical German complexity for what should be a simple device.. You might leave the door open and see how it works by pushing it with the locks unlocked, and then again with the car locked. If it's making the noise you hear - you might have found the problem. One other scary thought - has your vehicle ever suffered from the flooded footwell syndrome that all Cayennes are prone to? Given how the wiring for that device must run from that corner of the vehicle to the diagonal opposite front corner - chances are the wiring runs in the bundles that can be damaged if the footwells flood for any period of time. They're fixable - and could account for the problems the Durametric is having with communications. HTH, Don
  25. 1 point
    This DIY describes how to carry out a drain and fill of the differential and Tiptronic transmission for a 2005-2009 Porsche 987.1 Cayman or Boxster (as the minimum quote I got was for over $1000). The procedure will be similar for 1998-2005 996 and Boxster, plus 2005-2009 997. While it is not as comprehensive as a professional flush using a specialist flushing machine, it will get most of the fluid replaced. I am happy to modify the DIY with feedback or other advice. This work is done at your own risk, I take no responsibility for you skinning your knuckles, damaging your car or anything else by using these instructions! Total time taken to drain and refill both diff and transmission was about 3 hours and 2 beers, including taking pics and notes. Tools needed Sockets 13mm 15mm 4” extension Allen sockets 8mm (for diff fill plug) 17mm (for transmission drain plug) Torx T27 for transmission pan T40 torx socket for transmission fluid filter bolts Other tools Ratchet Torque wrench Laser temperature gauge Fluid pumps for transmission and diff fluid Jack stands Jack Drain buckets Consumables and parts Pentosin ATF 1 x 8 quarts (I bought 2x 5 quart containers from Amazon for $55 each) Differential 75W90 gear oil x 1 quart (around $20) Transmission gasket. Part number: 986-397-016-00 (around $22) Transmission oil filter. Part number: 986-307-403-00 (around $40) Transmission drain plug seal. Part number: 986-397-014-00 (around $3) Threadlock Mechanics gloves Degreasant to clean transmission pan Lots of shop towel / rags to clean up spillages   Step 1 Park on flat lever ground and apply the parking brake firmly. Then jack up the car and put it securely on axle stands. Try as hard as you can to push and dislodge the car. If you can’t move it, it will be fine. The security of the jack stand positioning is important as you will need to start the car and run it through the gears while on stands later in the procedure. Remove the 2x 15mm bolts located 1 inch aft of each the rear jacking points. Remove the 8x 15mm nuts holding the aluminum diagonal braces over the transmission sump. Move the braces out of the way. Remove the 2x 13mm nuts and 2x 13mm bolts holding the transmission skid plate in place and remove the plate.   Step 2 Remove the 2 bolts on either side that hold the rear sway bar in place then rotate it downwards to give clearance to remove the transmission pan.   Step 3 Remove the 17mm (hex or allen) transmission drain plug at the rear of the transmission pan. Drain the fluid into a bucket or oil tray. I drained about 5 quarts from my transmission at this point. Be careful as it comes out fast and splatters a lot. You should minimize spillage so you can measure the volume of fluid you remove.   Step 4 Remove the many T27 torx bolts that hold the transmission pan in place. Be careful as there will some fluid still in the pan. Try not to spill it so you can measure the volume.   Step 5 Remove the 2x T40 bolts holding the transmission filter in place, then remove the filter. Be careful, there will be some fluid in the filter and above the filter. Then remove the old green gasket from the transmission. Clean the mating surface carefully and do not scratch it. Then clean the transmission pan inside and out extremely well using degreasant then a lint free cloth. Remove the magnets and clean them. Then reinstall the clean magnets to the clean pan.   Step 6 Fit the new filter into place in the transmission after applying some transmission fluid to the rubber seals so allow them to seat correctly and without damage. Lightly screw in the T40 bolts to 6NM torque. Fit the new pan gasket in place then screw it back to the transmission. Torque in a crosswise manner to 11NM. Step 7 Refill the transmission using the Pentosin ATF 1. I got about 3 or 4 quarts in before it started to overflow. At this point, start the engine and go through the gears. Warm the engine until you can read 35-40C using the laser temp gauge on the base of the pan. While the car is in gear, top up the fluid again until it starts to drop out the filler. Then replace the seal on the filler plug, fit it into the pan and torque to 80NM. The transmission job is now finished. However, there is still a few quarts of old fluid in the plumbing to the cooler that I would like to try and remove or dilute further, so in about a week, I will do a quick drain and refill (no pan drop or filter change) with a further 4-5 quarts of new fluid. This should leave me with about 7.5 quarts of new fluid and about 2 quarts of old fluid, which should be fine for the next 50k miles.   Step 8 (Differential fluid change) Remove fill plug from the side of the diff just forward of the transmission (passenger side in a left hand drive car). Note there is no drain plug, the fluid needs to be pumped out of the filler plug. I bought a cheap ratchet powered fluid pump for this job. Step 9 When you have drained as much out as you can get (maybe ¾ of a liter), refill using the same quantity of new 75W90 and the same pump. It is full when it starts to drip out the filler hole. Fill quite slowly as there are baffles on the inside of the hole. Allow it to settle for a few mins then try to top up again. Reinstall the filler plug and torque to 35NM.
  26. 1 point
    ciaka

    Cayenne Hatch Strut Replacement

      This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial Cayenne Hatch Strut Replacement. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  27. 1 point
    Good news! Done a oil change today and saw it was a cracked drain plug!
  28. 1 point
    wwilliams88

    Cabin Air Filter

    Finally got around to this and took some pics for future reference. The procedure is a bit different for the 92A than the 9PA, at least the 2013 model year. I suspect it is the same for the 2011 and 2012 model years as well. First, their is only one screw to remove, using a T2 Torex wrench. It in the front, middle of the panel. You need a panel pry tool or strong fingers to release the front catches that are still holding it in place. Slip the tool between the panel and the glove box at one end to get the snaps to release. The end at the firewall is held in place with two rubber fingers that slip into brackets near the firewall. Rotating the front of the panel down will get these to slip out. Once you have the panel off, you are confronted with an air duct that has to be removed in order to get to the filter box. There is a retaining catch near the passenger door that needs to be released first. Locate it with your fingers and pry one side open. It will slip off the post at that point. The other end is a slip fit, so wiggling will get to release. The cover for the cabin filter does not have a screw holding it in place. Instead there is a hollow square plastic retainer at the firewall side that slips over a post at that end. The passenger side has a U shaped retaining clip. You have to release this one first. Its very tight quarters at that end. I could not get my fingers in there to release the clip. I fashioned a tool out of an old hose clamp by bending one end into a tight U. I slipped this end into the gap shown, hooked it over the retaining clip, gave a tug and this end of the filter cover released. Simply slip the other end off of the post. The filter itself takes some squeezing and wiggling to remove. The filter is bigger than the opening, so you will need to get you fingers in there to compress it to get it started out of the opening. Installation is the reverse of removal. Again, you have to compress the filter somewhat to get it into the box. Once it is in there, it wont fall out. Don't forget to put the gray foam gasket back on the filter cover before you snap it in place. Slip the firewall end over the post and snap the other end over the retainer post. The air duct is next, wiggling the large end back in place and snapping the retaining clip back onto the mating post. The two fingers on the back of the bottom panel slip into the appropriate brackets and the snap the front in place. Replace the one screw and you are done. With practice and the appropriate tool to get the cover retaining clip to release, probably a 15-20 minute job max.
  29. 1 point
    spudboy6

    No reverse light 2001/2 tip

    right new unit fitted today and all solved and for all your guys help on here i will give something back and tell you how to fit the unit and diagnosis . put car in neautral and remove earth on battery ,remove gear knob (silver button pops off , remove clip , slide knob off ) remove J-gate surround very tough clips use a trim tool start from the back BUT be carefull to note which way round the cover goes under this on the bottom of the stalk to cover the hole when shifting , other wise upon refit it will cause you pain not knowing how it fits wasting time working it out because it jams between TIP and Auto when switching between remove ash tray and torx screws under and un-plug light in cubby hole remove rubber matt , undo torx screw remove plastic panel and undo two torx screws under there remove handbrake side trim pops off remove trim (mine was carbon fibre panel ) just above where gear knob was under radio as such remove other relevant screws recline seats fully and remove centre console unit , on passengers side locate white MFS box and remove plugs (reverse light plug very hard to get out !) bridge out plug to confirm your fault (after reconnecting battery Now either replace the unit and OR open up unit and you will see the metal contacts will have come away from the copper strip and so just bend down to make contact again and test ,. now fit the unit back this is why you left the car in neautral , the new switch has a locking pin inside it to keep it in neautral , fit new switch and plug in , reconnect battery and turn ignition on making sure the car has been left in neautral the whole time or it forgets where park is ! now rebuild your centre console 2-3 hours max . that is my rough guide hope it helps someone else !
  30. 1 point
    Loren

    No reverse light 2001/2 tip

    Backup light wires are Black/Blue stripe (to lights cluster) and Black/Orange stripe (to fuse B5) -- (on a MY2002).
  31. 1 point
    I determined the cause. The optical connector to the camera was not making a good connection. I took it apart and cleaned it the best I could, and snapped it back together, and it has been trouble free ever since. To get to the connector just pry off the exterior panel right below the rear window. Before that I had completely disassembled the rear liftgate from the inside, and discovered that I could not access the camera from the inside - just so you know.
  32. 1 point
    Here is a documented guide to overhauling the Boxster's speaker systems for improved sound. I did this for under $600, and the difference is astonishing. Covers front,rear, and door speaker systems. Well illustrated, and contains a detailed section dealing with updating the door speakers from 5 1/4" to to 6 1/2" drivers while maintaining a completely stock appearence. Hope this helps many a Boxster owner. First986NJ UPDATE 4/23/08: Wow, 2600 downloads - cool! Hi Guys, a couple of updates: 1) The article referrs MB Quart drivers being used. While these are fine drivers and many people like them, I found them a bit too bright for my tastes. My car now has Polk Audio db series drivers throughout (db651's in the doors and db401's in the dash) and I am even happier with the sound. I also eventually replaced the (4) 3 1/2" drivers in the PNP rear shelf kit with Polk Audio db351's and they improved the sound back there noticably. Infinity Kappa's were considered, and I listened to them, but I found the Polks slightly tighter sounding and so I went that way. The two were VERY close in both price and quality. 2) Something new on the door speakers......... Kicker has recently come out with a 6.5" sub that is perfect for the Boxster doors! It is a 6.5" CompVT Shallow Series Subwoofer, Frequency response: 25-350 Hz ,Sensitivity: 85 dB ,Impedance 4 ohms ,Peak Power Handling 300 watts ,RMS Power Handling 150 watts. Top Mount Depth is 2-13/16" and Cutout Diameter 5-9/16". Available at Crutchfield and Woofersetc.com. I have not yet put a set in my doors, but fully intend to very soon. Andy Guide_to_Modifying_the_Boxster_Sound_System.pdf
  33. 1 point
    Long Islander

    Optima Battery Install

    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. These instructions show how to install an Optima Group 34R battery in your Porsche Boxster or 996 using a plastic adapter plate. The cost of the materials (other than the Optima battery) should be under $20, and an hour or two of your time. You don't need to make any modifications to your car or to the Optima battery. All you need to do is to make an installation plate out of plastic, and then bolt the Optima battery to the plastic plate, and the plastic plate onto the original Porsche battery tray just like the original battery. Once the Optima battery is installed, you can easily remove it and re-install the original Porsche battery within a few minutes. Optima makes a great battery, but only in a limited number of sizes, none of which is an exact fit for a Porsche Boxster or 996. The Optima Group 34 battery is shorter (by about 2") and slightly taller than the standard group 91 battery found in most Boxsters and 996s. To install an Optima battery, you need to make adapter plate out of plastic. Dieters Motorsports (www.dietersmotorsports.com) has detailed instructions on how to install an Optima battery using a 1/4" thick aluminum plate and a longer positive battery cable. I thought Dieters Motorsports had a great idea, but it requires an aluminum plate to be custom-made by a machine shop and a longer positive battery cable. I asked a couple of machine shops about the cost of a piece of aluminum, and they quoted me between $130 and $190. I found that high-density polyethylene would be a great substitute and is very easy to cut and drill into, so you need to only buy a flat sheet of the polyethylene and do the drilling and cutting yourself. It is black with a wrinkled finish, so it looks like a lot of other plastic pieces that came with the car. I also found that 3/8" thickness works better because it fits more tightly under the tabs on the rear and driver's side of the Porsche battery tray. High-density polyethylene is both very rigid and very light, yet also resistant to battery acid (in case your old battery already spilled acid onto the battery tray). My installation enabled me to install an Optima Group 34R without replacing any battery cables. "R" stands for reversed positive and negative posts, which puts the positive post closer to the end of the positive cable. With the Group 34R, both cables just barely made it on my car (2001 911 C2). Had I used the regular Group 34 battery rather than the reversed-post group 34 battery, I'm not sure whether the cables would have been long to reach the battery posts. Other 996 owners have reported using a regular group 34 without having to replace any battery cables. In any event, the price of the Group 34 and 34R is the same - it's just that the 34R is a bit harder to find. I bought mine for $119 from an Interstate Battery distributor, who had several in stock. All Interstate Battery dealers carry Optima batteries, and practically every gas station in my area is an Interstate dealer, so you should be able to buy the 34R very easily no matter where you live. Interstate's web site (www.interstatebattery.com) allows you to do a zip code search for the nearest dealers. Materials Required: 3/8" high-density polyethylene: You will need a piece of 3/8" thick high density polyethylene, cut to 14 X 6-7/8". I used 14" X 6-3/4" because it was readily available, but the footprint of the Porsche battery is exactly 6-7/8" wide, so you would be better off with that size (I'm not sure 7" will fit, so you should check your battery tray width to see if it can accommodate a 7" wide plate). The 3/8" thickness was just right. A half inch thick piece would not have fit under the edges of the battery tray,and 1/4" would not be tight enough under the edges to prevent the battery and adapter plate from bouncing up and down. Also, 3/8" was thick enough to make the adapter plate very rigid. Locating a plastics manufacturer to sell you a small piece of polyethylene may prove to be a challenge. I was lucky as PlasTEAK (www.plasteak.com) happened to have just such a piece laying around, which they sold to me for $10. I also found that K-Mac Plastics (www.pbt-plastic-resin.com) will cut to size, but they may have a minimum order size. Otherwise,you can check your local yellow pages under "Plastics" and arts and crafts stores. Stainless steel hardware: I bought all the necessary nuts, bolts and washers for around $5 from West Marine. A good hardware store may have these as well. West Marine did not have 1-1/4" long screws of the type needed, so I bought 1-1/2" ones and cut them down with a hack saw. - four #10, phillips, flat head, 1-1/4" long screws - four flat washers 5/8" diameter (needs to fit over the #10 screws) - four #10 locking washers - four #10 cap nuts. Initial Preparation of Adapter Plate: 1. Using 1-1/2" (or wider) masking tape, tape all four edges of the adapter plate. This is so that you can easily see the drilling and cutting marks on the plate, which otherwise would be hard to mark and see on the black plastic. 2. Mark a 1/2" by 1/2" square at two of the short sides of the adapter plate, and cut away these squares. The diagram to the left shows in black the squares to be cut away. Adapter plate next to the Porsche battery tray after the holes have been drilled. 3. Take the adapter plate to the car. 4. Bring a skinny pen with you (I used a ball-point refill from a Cross pen so that my marks would be as precise as possible). Removing battery from car: 1. If you have a battery maintainer or trickle charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter, plug that in, as it will eliminate the need to re-program all your radio settings. 2. Open the front hood, and remove the battery compartment cover by turning the two thumb-screws and lifting out. You will now see the battery. Since you will need to stand in the front trunk, you may want to put down a towel or drop cloth to keep the trunk floor clean. 3. Standing in the trunk, remove the negative terminal cable. Next remove the positive terminal cable from the battery and wrap it in a towel. Finally, disconnect the vent tube and curl it up and place it out of the way (you won't be using this anymore). Move the positive and negative cables out of the way. Handle the positive cable especially carefully (i.e., don't let it touch any metal) if you have your car hooked up to a trickle charger. 4. Unbolt the battery hold-down clamp and set aside the bolt and the clamp. 5. Remove the battery by moving it forward and slightly to the passenger side. 6. Loosen bolt at the other end of the negative cable (the side farthest from the side that attaches to the battery) a bit so that the cable swivels easily. Follow the positive battery cable back to where it enters the car. You will notice a round black plastic cap that covers the other end. Pull this toward you with your hand, and underneath you will notice a nut. Loosen this with a socket wrench. If your car is connected to a battery charger at this time, be careful not to touch any metal while loosening the nut. Loosen the nut so that there is some freedom of movement at the end of the cable. 7. Don't unbolt the battery tray just yet. Marking Optima Battery Location in Car: 1. Place the plastic battery adapter plate inside the battery tray and position it all the way to the back and to the driver's side. Make sure it is pushed all the way in. 2. Take the Optima battery and place it on the adapter plate, with the positive terminal to the passenger side. Make sure the adapter plate did not move around when you put the battery in place. If so, push the adapter plate toward the back and driver's side again. Push the Optima battery all the way to the back. 3. Move the battery toward the passenger side of the car just enough so that the positive cable fits over the positive terminal of the battery. Move the battery to the driver's side while removing the slack from the positive cable. Don't tighten the positive cable to the post. Swivel the negative cable and stretch it so that it reaches the negative battery post and fit it over the negative terminal. Make sure your battery tray is pushed as far to the rear of the car and as far to the driver's side as possible. Make sure you can still remove both battery cables without having to move the battery around. 4. Using your skinny pen, mark all around the edges of the battery. 5. Remove the battery cables (remember to wrap the positive cable in a towel again). 6. Remove the battery from the car. 7. Remove the battery tray from the car, by unbolting the four nuts that hold it in place. Drilling Holes in the Adapter Plate: 1. Take the adapter plate and Optima battery to your workbench. 2. Measure the distance from the left side (passenger side) of the battery tray to the center of the bolt hole for the hold-down that holds the original battery in place (this should be the third hole from the right, or driver's side). 3. Place the adapter plate inside the Porsche battery tray, making sure you push it all the way to the right and rear of the battery tray. Mark the location for the hole in the adapter plate that is equal to the distance you just measured. 4. Drill a hole in the adapter plate that is wide enough to accommodate the original bolt. 5. Once the hole is drilled, test to make sure the adapter plate bolts into the Porsche battery tray. Note: you will not use the battery hold-down with the Optima battery, just the bolt. 6. Take the adapter plate out of the battery tray and place the Optima battery on top of the adapter plate, using the marks that you made to properly locate it on the plate. 7. Take one of your stainless steel flat washers and locate it above one of the holes on the bottom of the Optima battery. Center two of the washers over the holes on one side of the battery, and mark with your skinny pen the exact center of the hole on the battery plate. Before you mark the other side, you may want to drill the holes on one side and bolt the battery to the mounting plate (I drilled all four holes first, and found they didn't all line up, so I spent a lot of time making the holes larger to make them all line up). 8. If you use a 5/32" drill bit, the screws will actually thread their way through the plastic. If you want them to slide through, use a larger bit (maybe a 3/16" bit). You will also have to countersink the flat head screws so they are flush with the bottom of the plastic plate. If you don't have a countersinking drill bit, you will need to use a drill bit as large as the head of the screw, and then drill into the center of the small hole just deep enough to get the screw head not to protrude. This takes some patience and may take a few tries to get it just right. 9. Bolt one side of the battery down (positive side away from the notched edge), then repeat the marking and drilling process. 10. Bolt the battery to the adapter plate. At left is a photo of the battery bolted to the adapter plate. 11. You're now ready to bolt the battery tray into car Back to the Car: 1. Take the Porsche battery tray, Optima battery (already bolted to the adapter plate) and battery tray back to the car. 2. Bolt the Porsche battery tray back into the car. 3. Place the adapter plate with Optima battery bolted to it into the battery tray, and bolt it down with the original bolt that was previously used to bolt the hold-down clamp over the original battery. You will not use the hold-down clamp, but hold onto it in case you need it in the future. 4. Connect the positive cable to the positive terminal and tighten. 5. Tighten up the other end of the positive cable, and snap the plastic cap back over the end nut. 6. Connect the negative cable to the negative terminal and tighten, then tighten the other end of the negative cable. 7. As you can see from the photo to the left, I removed the carrying handle for the Optima battery. To do this, raise one end of the handle as high as it will go and then lower the end until you can slide it past the groove that holds it in, then out. Then slide the other end of the carrying handle out.
  34. 1 point
    I apologize if this is somewhere in the archives but I did a search and couldn't find any specific information on how to remove the screen/filter from the brake fluid reservoir. I need to flush my brake fluid before a PCA DE this weekend and I'd like to remove the screen on the top of the reservoir so I can remove as much of the old fluid as possible with my Mitivac pump. I read some other posts that you just take some needle nose pliers to remove, but mine doesn't seem to want to come out. Does it only come out a certain way, meaning it needs to be rotated in a certain orientation?. '99 Boxster, if that matters.
  35. 1 point
    Thanks, that was going to be my secondary option. I just figured it would be a little faster to suck all of the old fluid out of the reservoir with my Mityvac pump as other's have suggested before putting the new fluid in. I don't know how other's got the screen out but I tugged on it pretty hard and it wouldn't budge. I had visions of brake fluid getting flung all over the place if it broke lose with those pliers. I'll use your procedure instead. I just picked up a Motiv pressure bleeder so it should go pretty quick.
  36. 1 point
    I don't remove them because sometimes they break. I drain fluid from the RR nipple until the level is at the sensor in the reservoir. Then fill the reservoir and start bleeding. You start at the RR. I use the Motive pressure bleeder so when I drain the fluid the Motive tank is empty. If your Mitivac is the one I have then it creates a vacum at the nipple.
  37. 1 point
    ninerguru

    cylinder position firing order

    Driver's side from rear to front of car are 1, 2 and 3. Pass side from rear to front are 4, 5 and 6. You are looking for the center cyl on the pass side. Lou
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