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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    mudman2

    P0441 Error Code

    The symptoms for this include CEL and Long Cranking times when starting after filling up. Part Required 948 110 202 01 (75 from dealer, 45 from Sunset) Some new Twist locks for the trim panels, since they have a mind of their own. You will need to remove the throttle design cover pull up it comes right off. then you will need to remove the 4 t 30 torx screws on the drivers side coil cover. then that cover will pull up although it is a pain, you can wiggle it out. Use a large flat blade screw driver or a penny to remove the 1/4 twist locks that hold down the drivers side engine compartment cover (the big black one) there should be 4 1/4 ttwists Then remove the rearblack panel, 1 1/4 twist in the center and 2 on the pass side of it. Remove the panel the purge valve is in the front of the engine between the head and the intake on the drivers side. It looks like a black cylinder little bit bigger then a film canister with a hose on one end to the front and the back is a hard black plastic line that runs along the intake and comes up in the back and goes to a rubber hose on the fire wall. Un plug the valve and push it off its bracket, undo the clamp with a pair of plairs and pull the hose off (sometimes you need gently grab the hose with the pliars and twist to loosen it up from the valve, you can damage the valve just not the hose). In the rear you will need to do the same, the rear hose never comes off easy I think they glue it on, use you pliers to crush the plastic line where the hose is over it. once it is crushed enough it will come off with needle nose pliers. Undo the injector electrical connections (wire clip on each) and pull them off, also free the ratcheting clip on the 1 inch flexy pipe crossing over the top. These 2 steps make removing the pipe a lot less violent. I did not and I would do the next time (hope not) I would cut the pipe after you have sprung it out of the gold clips along the intake, it make it easier to remove The pipe has some sleeving which is re-used, see when they are before you remove and put them back the same The hard part is the removal, putting it back is a piece of cake., Dont forget to hook a durametric to clear the code. I filled up for the first time this morning, perfect start afterwards. I need to give credit for this to a certain dealer tech from Miami (Firehawk) without whose help I would not have been brave enough to do this myself.
  2. 3 points
    pennyporsche

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Hi, I hope someone can help. I just had my car painted and they disconnected the battery and now I have lost the radio code. this is the info I have found. I'm not sure how to go about getting it. Any help would be appreciated. Becker 1 type 4462 # Y5038582 24/99 Thanks
  3. 3 points
    Ok guys, you've been waiting for this, and as promised, here is my brief, but descriptive walkthrough. this is what you will need as the following: Porsche Panel wedge tool Screw Driver w/ T-20 bit and Flat head bit Turbo Instrument Cluster strong fingers! Ok with that cleared away, here is the first step. Remove the black plastic gauge cover above the gauges. Use the wedge tool or , in this case I used my fingers! (don't use the fingers, i highly recomend not to , it hurts hahahah). Remember , you will need to apply gentle but enough pressure to detach the tabs off from the top cover of the dash that is over the cluster As you can see, the reason why i say "gentle" is because you have the tabs, take them off or apply too much pressure, and those bad boys can break, if anyone had experience with plastic and heat, they can easily become brittle. Just make sure you use precaution. Next, there are 5 screws to detach the dash cluster cover. 4 screws are attached to the top of the gauge cluster, while one (in back) inside the housing is there to hold the cover in place on the main dash. Remember, these are t-20 screws. two are parallel on each side , symmetrical to each other The rear screw, is located in the center back of the gauge cluster cover. as illustrated here. Once all screws are removed, just like the black pastic gauge cover, remove the upper gauge cover off gentley. They are tabbed in place, so apply the righ pressure. Note: when you remove the cover, be sure you have the washer for the 5th screw. This holds and aligns the cover of the cluster in place. as shown here Once the top is off, you will need to gain access to the bottom half. this is where most of the work will be done. here are the major things you will need to do - Remove trip pieces - unscrew support holding ignition/key - remove driver left AC vent Lets begin with taking off the side cover where the fuse housing is and the AC vent. Use the wedge tool to open the side panel and to take the ac unit out. the AC unit pops out as an entire pice, though the trim may seperate, this is normal, but becareful , damaging the trim will result in a loose fit. The reason for this to come out is there is a screw that holds the lower portion in place, which later will be necessary to access the bottom part of the instrument cluster Next take off the trim. There are three screws, t-20's , that are behing them. use the wedge tool again, gentley take the trim off. Again use precaution when taking them out. the outer ignition/key cover is part of the trim. so make extra effort to be careful Once the trim is removed, and the screws , make sure you remove the support ring , which holds the ignition key in place by way of screwing around the threads of the ignition. there is a special tool for this, but i used a flat head screwdriver to pussh along some tabs gentley till it was unscrewed. Repeat for the trim on the right near the windshield wiper control arm on the steering will. there should be two screws to take off. Also note, the screw inside the AC vent on the left driver side, it should be on the upper corner. Next, once all screws have been removed, gentley remove the tabs off , again, use precaustion, these are tabs, and need to be taken off with extreme care avoiding damage to them, and causing not to fit properly Once the bottom is removed, go ahead and take out the remaining two bottom screws that hold/support of the cluster. Again,these are t-20 screws Once remove, it's self explanetory from there, there are a green and blue connector, with purple latches. unlatch both, and remove the old cluster. Put in the turbo cluster, and presto, turn your car on, and test the cluster b4 putting it back together. your cluster should then boot up and you will see what awaits! Further notes - When you hook up your gauge cluster, you will hear a weird buzzing noise, that's ok, it's just the cluster responding to its connection. You will also notice that your milage should be at 0.0 for new clusters or whoever's previous milage was on it, if you bought it used. So be forwarned, My friend who knows vw/audi's said clusters like these have a tendancy to carry over their last cars info on milage over to whichever car they are being installed. So note to yourself, to write down your actual mileage. Once done, and pre programed, go ahead and put everything back together, and yours should look like this Alright now! I hope everyone is successful as I was, and hope all you skeptics out there can take it easy and rest knowing someone already done this for you! hahahah Enjoy! if you have any other questions or comments, just PM or reply! I'll be more than happy to help! I will also be posting a turbo bumper upgrade too for those who are interested later once i get my spare headlight washer parts in! til then good reading folks :D :P
  4. 3 points
    Jameslovesporsches

    Horn Problem

    For those with the horn problem, I wanted to steer you towards the black hi temp silicone repair. I tried going to Lowe's, Home Depot, and even Ace for the o-ring solution suggested by jporter, but could not find an o-ring #38 or nylon washers of the right spec. Very frustrating. When I took off the airbag, I found that my rubber bushings were all still in place! This intrigued me because everyone else's had tears or even torn all the way through. Nevertheless, the silicone fix has solved my horn problem, and I conclude that my rubber bushings, though still intact, had become exceptionally flimsy, and unable to offset the airbag's weight. Good luck to others with this problem. James
  5. 3 points
    rettedm

    Horn Problem

    Easier fix is to fill the rubber bushing completely with Black hi Temp silicone gasket in a tube available at all auto parts stores. It dries hard and returns the horn to normal operation.
  6. 2 points
    9552T500

    fuel pump cayenne 9PA constipated?

    Hurra! Neither Brake Booster failure nor CEL anymore, brakes precisely and the beast roars as it should be . Took several weekends to deal with the aftermath from winter driving (fun, but somehow regret...) . Now washed & waxed, and happy wife for life...Thanks once more to the folks here for the guidance. In turn - let me share my fix with illustrations: 1. drill hole in old tube close to firewall to keep the substance but arrest the crack growth; 2. Pull rubber tubing (1mm wall thickness (some old Nissin brake hose seath from my motorcyle used-spares box (Typically collecting and I don't throw stuff like this away as there will be a re-use someday...)) over 1.5 in and the old spigot on the counter part ; 3. I also re-did the joint on the Tee below motor mount using a 8/12 mm ID/OD rubber tubing. To connect this tube with the old plastic line I found some 1/2 in ID PEX tubing (Sharkbite...some residue form my last plumbing project on the house). This was a light interference fit by hand, and instantly perfectly sealed (some metal clamps maybe for safety , but I will leave it for the case the joint fails...). That's it. After a few minutes drive around the block the BB failure msg was gone, and the CEL a further 15 miles down the road. Attaching few pix
  7. 2 points
    skalex

    Rear park assist

    just to follow up, I found a used module for a really good price on ebay ($35), ordered and received 2 days later. I changed it this week end and it was a module problem, everything work now!
  8. 2 points
    I am unworthy - I will go out and polish mine immediately. Nice One H
  9. 2 points
    lewisweller

    fuel pump cayenne 9PA constipated?

    Thanks for the tip. I always removed and tested the tail lights but neglected to check the third Led brake light because stupidly i was looking for the tail light issue and not the brake light but its all on the same circuit duh! I will check that first before going to the trouble of removing the trim etc to get at the comfort control module. For anyone who is reading this thread in the future the hesitation issue returned and I'm still searching for a cause. The new fuel pumps did not fix this long term and I think the short term improvement was either a fluke or just the result of the battery being disconnected for some time and resetting something. Repeating this disconnection of battery doesn't result in better running everytime its frustratingly random.
  10. 2 points
    JFP in PA

    Oil Change Interval (Definitive)

    It all depends upon how long you expect your engine to live, and how much of the marketing "Kool Aid" that oil producers and car manufacturer's spout you are willing to swallow. The optimum method to determine when the oil should be changed is by monitoring the used oil's TBN (total base number), which indicates how far gone the additive package is at any point. When the TBN drops from virgin levels to 50%, it is time to change the oil. You should also be looking at contaminants that collect in the oil, particularly fuel and water. Those of us that collect this data, and spend most of our lives inside these engines, will tell you 5-6K miles is about it. Beyond that point, the oil is falling out of grade (no longer the advertised weights), its film strengths are significantly diminished, and the contaminants start to become corrosive to engine components.
  11. 2 points
    Loren

    Door Panel Removal / Install Instructions

    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Tools you will need: 10 mm socket or wrench Small narrow regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver 4 mm hex allen socket or 4 mm allen wrench Door Panel Removal Note: If you are just going after the speaker enclosures you may not need to do all the items here (i.e. door handle mechanism). Just remove the minimum and carefully lean the door panel to the side. Warning: Airbag could inflate. Danger of injury or damage during removal/install! 1. Remove ignition key. 2. Disconnect and cover the negative terminal of the battery. 3. After the battery is disconnected, assembly work or work on the vehicle may be started after a waiting period of 1 minute. Caution: Damage may occur if the bowden cable is bent at the hook. The hook of the bowden cable is pressed into the end piece of the cover for protection during transport and assembly. Pull the hook out of the end piece only after installation in the inner door release (see below). Remove (1) cover - Use a plastic spatula to release the clipped connection out of the door handle on all sides. Remove fastening screws 2, 3, 4. Remove (2) plastic cover (airbag) - Press the cover out with a narrow screwdriver 5. Remove the fastening screw 6 seated below it. Press light 7 out of the door trim panel using a plastic spatula 10. Disconnect (pull off) electrical plug connection. Disconnect (3) the bowden cable (arrow B ) and electrical plug connection - Disconnect electrical plug connection from the microswitch for the door handle 9 and orientation lighting 10. Press lugs of the plastic clip (arrow A) and pull out towards the rear. Carefully push the bowden cable 8 back into the end piece of the sleeve (arrow B ). Remove (4) door trim panel - Take expanding nut out of the door trim panel. Unclip door trim panel out of the door on all sides and lift up and off. Clips 13 and 14 must be replaced for assembly (according to the manual). Remove (5) airbag - Disconnect electrical plug connection 15. Remove the fastening screws 16 out of the side airbag and remove. Removing (6) frame - Remove fastening screws 18 from the frame 19. Remove (7) door film (only if needed)- Pull off carefully on all sides. Removing (8) sound enclosure (if present) - Disconnect electrical plug connection from the sound enclosure 21. Remove the fastening screws 22 on the sound enclosure 23. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Door Panel Install Caution: Water may enter at the door film! Door films which have been completely removed or torn must always be replaced. In the case of door films which have become partly detached at the top and side, the detached films must be reattached using a butyl sealing cord. Install (1) sound enclosure - Position sound enclosure 23 in the door. Screw on the sound enclosure with the fastening screws 22. Connect electrical connection 21. Install (2) the door film (if needed) - Peel off the protective film -A- on the door film and position on the door. Using a roller 8, press on the door film on all sides 20. Install (3) frame - Position the frame 19 on the sound enclosure. Make sure that the door film cut-out is positioned correctly on the sound enclosure. Screw in the fastening screws 18 and tighten. Install (4) side airbag - Position side airbag 17 on the door and tighten fastening screws 16 (7.5 ft-lb). The fastening screws 16 must be replaced each time they are removed (according to the manual). Engage (5) the bowden cable B. Connect electrical plug connection - Engage bowden cable B 7 in the door handle. Pull the hook out of the end piece of the sleeve only after installation in the door handle. Clip plastic clip into the door handle. Connect electrical plug connections 8, 9. Install (6) door trim panel - The clips 13, 14 must be replaced every time the door trim panel is removed (according to the manual). Position the door trim panel on the door and clip it in. (7) Position fastening screws 5 in the door trim panel and tighten (4.5 ft-lb). Press in plastic cover. Make sure the logo reads correctly. Install (8) the cover - Screw in the fastening screws 2, 3, 4 and tighten. Clip in the cover 1 on the door handle.
  12. 2 points
    jporter

    Horn Problem

    I had some extra time over the weekend so I took some pictures of the fix for the horn covered in the earlier post. The o-rings measured .300 x .580 and .140 thick. The nylon washer measured .375 x .875 and .031 thick. The image below shows the hole after the center is remove, the components partially disassembled, the components together, and the components assembled to the frame.
  13. 2 points
    Tool Pants

    Horn Problem

    The 4 spoke air bag comes off just like a 3 spoke. Disconnect the negative cable to the battery and you need a T30 torx driver for the 2 torx screws behind the wheel. This is the 4 spoke frame. Part number 993 347 088 01. Retail $65.
  14. 2 points
    Tool Pants

    Horn Problem

    The green line is to one of the 4 bushings. My pencil is to one of the 4 horn contacts. When the bushings become worn and relax the frame/metal plate makes contact with the horn contact due to the weight of the air bag, and beep. Porsche does not sell just the bushings. You have to buy the entire frame. Some guys use slices of garden hose to make the bushings stiffer. Someone else put a spring under each bushing.
  15. 1 point
    09CayennePepper

    HP Fuel Adaptation Value

    So after an extended conversation with the indy and data mining in his system, call to a dealership head mechanic who, in turn had a conversation with another mechanic we have concluded that the next course of action is to replace the replaced HP pump. Seems to be a regulator type problem and the reg is integral to the pump. Luckily the pump I have has a 1 year warranty and it's only been 9 months or so. Hopefully in a week or so I should have everything to get the next step done. Maybe the last step?
  16. 1 point
    lewisweller

    2006 Cayenne Turbo S codes - P2401 & P0448

    Yep that's it, its called the Evap Purge Solenoid Valve. About 100 dollars. Also have a good look at the wiring to the plug, Thomas had it break inside and was causing him some trouble until he found it and replaced the plug. When you unplug it just use a multi meter to test the two pins to measure the purge solenoids resistance it should be quite low maybe 5-15ohms. If high resistance, open circuit or nearly 0 then it faulty for sure. The plug will likely be negatively switched so with ignition on you can test the 12v supply is present if you use test between one of the pins and a ground/engine block. (This will generate a p0441 code so expect that and clear it once plug is reconnected and cycle ignition key on off on first) The plug ground will be via the dme so testing that to engine block/ground won't give you anything tangible I don't think. If you don't find anything unusual buzz the solenoid out using two pieces of wire connected to the + battery jump point on the engine bay right side under the beauty cover. Note the positive and negative pin on the purge solenoid by knowing the + wire on the plug and which pin it goes on to.
  17. 1 point
    I would think that 125k km would still be too new for variocam wear - - there's plenty of Cayennes running around with way more miles without this issue. Random anecdote per Ddavidoffs post: My brother had a rock crawler that was giving him fits. It had a Chevy LS engine in it with a Painless Wiring harness. Started fine and ran great when cold, but as it warmed up it would intermittently stutter and lose power. I seemed to remember it throwing a code or doing something that made us suspect a failing crank sensor and O2s - - replaced those and some other bits, still no joy. While testing it one day, we notice that the ECU voltage was dipping when the issues were happening (note that it would also hesitate and stutter at idle when hot, which made troubleshooting easier than your situation). We wondered if maybe the ECU was failing, but wanted to check all the wiring first before throwing more dollars at parts. So as I wiggled all the wires on the various harnesses and suddenly the engine stutter would coincide with the wire wiggle. It turned out there was a bad/weak crimp in a major (positive, I think) lead to the fuse panel that fed the ECU amongst other circuits. And as the amperage heated up the wire crimp, the connection got slightly intermittent - - not enough to cause an obvious electrical issue, but enough to sag the ECU and make it hiccup. New crimp - - No more issues. Lesson: electrical gremlins are a b*tch. We got lucky to find that wire. Consider logging ECU voltage, cleaning ECU harness plug with contact cleaner, checking any suspect connections, and maybe wiggling wires. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  18. 1 point
    09CayennePepper

    HP Fuel Adaptation Value

    Wow that is exceptional. I didn't even give it a thought because of age and miles. Good for you. You'll be up and running before you know it. Not sure if you can do it or how the voucher works but I have been getting genuine Porsche parts from a dealer in North Carolina, Paramount. Their prices beat everyone and I mean EVERYONE and they are vin # driven, have a Porsche guy check compatibility and are generally good to work with. You ought to give them a look, https://store.paramountauto.com/auto-parts/porsche
  19. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 1097
  20. 1 point
    09CayennePepper

    HP Fuel Adaptation Value

    In my research I found that when its gone its gone. Mine stumbled for a couple of days and then would not start, at all. The plastic part is merely a way to get the cam drive on while trying to stab the pump onto the mount. If it has disintegrated it may have caused other problems with the pump but I'm not sure. Mine was in about five pieces, had to assemble the puzzle when I got the parts out to make sure I had all of them. Mirror and an angled pick got it all out. That HP pump is pretty solid so I'm not sure that any lack of fuel from the back end would cause it any harm but who knows. And it's pricey too.
  21. 1 point
    White987S

    Smoke from engine bay when conecting battery

    Re-confirm you are properly attaching the positive and negative terminals. What do you mean by "engine cover grills"? How old is battery? Is the vent tube properly connected? What is the battery's fluid level in each cell? If the battery is failing, and you "recharged" it, it only made it worse. Worse thing for a battery it to be fully discharged, and then recharged.
  22. 1 point
    lewisweller

    fuel pump cayenne 9PA constipated?

    Mine is a 2006 ctt so I don't have the hpfp. The set up of the hpfp is very similar to my 2013 Golf R (sold) I rebuilt the Hitachi hpfp with auto tech internals to increase pump pressure to match the APR stage 2+ tune and mods. The earlier engine had a very weak and soft cam lobe which flatten and caused lean burn and low pressure also the cam follower would wear a hole in it and smash everything up. Lucky the 2013 Golf R engine had revised cam and as long as you checked and replaced the cam follower every 30-40,000 km it was bullet proof with good oil quality and regular changes. The porsche setup is a bit different using a clutch and stopper which can break. Does anyone do a refurb/exchange rebuilt unit of the hpfp? I'm sure its very similar to vag hpfp used in millions of applications across the range since 2005 or even before. I bet someone does. Edit: just found this, suncoast do ....... https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php
  23. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Exhaust rattle

    OK, you need to rotate the engine by hand using a wrench, only turning the pulley clockwise, never counter clockwise, until the pulley hole lines up with the pin boss. Once the pulley bolt is out, you can pull the pin and simply wiggle the pulley to pull it out. Then reinstall the bolt, turn the engine if it has moved to orient the pin opening, and reinstert the pin, then complete the torque plus rotation process. Then it is Miller time.......... And just a by-the-by in passing, you will not find much of Porsche's original literature posted online, they have gotten draconian about protecting their copyrights and go after any one that does post their stuff.
  24. 1 point
    Normally around 12.6volts. I do alot of long journeys and sometimes the whole day im driving, so really in theory it shouldnt need a maintainer although i do have one which i used a few times to experiment with no real differences. Since the new hitachi alternator and 3rd new battery under warranty everything starting and charging wise has been fine knock on wood.
  25. 1 point
    After some more research on fuel pressure and pumps I started to investigate the likely hood that I had a power or ground fault to one or both pumps possibly. I was passing my favourite porsche parts guy Hussain and couldnt resist nipping in and buying two new 15amp fuses and 2 new relays 404 for both pumps. I fitted them in a parking spot nearby and reset the DTC codes so as to clear the fuel trims and get a fair Base line if it made any difference. Well guess what the idle Dip is gone! And the acceleration seems smoother, the stutter at 2700-3200 rpm has not disappeared but it almost like it trying to behave. I may have stumbled on something here. And I fully intend to dive in to this further and do some amp testing and voltage test and ground volt drop tests to see the extent of the problem. I will bench tested the old relays as well and if I found some anomalies I will cut them open to investigate. And would you believe it, I ran the journey home with AC on high which felt and blew cooler than its been for a while (34oC outside today) and the "rear check tail light fault" warning I couldn't get to pop up on dash with all lights on and front fogs and music pumping to try and draw some extra power as it voltage related I'm sure. I don't know, it's all to good to be true at the moment and I've been here before thinking all was good and bang it didn't last long. I've got less than 1/4 so also I'm suspicious of this (hence the title of the post) and will fill up tomorrow and see if the problem return or not. I need to see some clear wiring diagrams of the power and grounds for the fuel system and the rear comfort control module to see if any common power or grounds are there. And the spec for running amps current of the fuel pumps would be good to know. Loren if you could be so kind as to PM me anything you have relative to this I would be most great full thank you.
  26. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 9140
  27. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 7827
  28. 1 point
    Paul Grainger

    White smoke!!!

    Yes yes thought it could be a duff AOS even though it was brand new. I researched 'definitive testing' of the AOS and found that crankcase negative pressure is the only real way to find out if it's ok. My crankcase pressure is exactly what it should be when the AOS is healthy - hence my uncertainty now on what is causing this.
  29. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 3417
  30. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Exhaust rattle

    You do not have to disconnect the battery when working on the O2 sensors. Which bolts do you need the torque specs for?
  31. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Alarm System Frustration (Not a Water Leak)

    If you scan the car with a Porsche diagnostic system, you will be able to read the last ten alarm faults, which should point you to what is causing the beep/red light. We have several customers with some very serious aftermarket audio/video equipment in their cars, and none of them have the issue you outlined.
  32. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 7650
  33. 1 point
    jerry7297

    Spoiler installed

    So I bought a small spoiler for my 2000 -996. The paint I got from Sherman Williams Auto-paint was not impressive. End result is okay. I really like the new look. here are a couple of pics. I also painted my bumperettes.
  34. 1 point
    Transfer case fluid changed from Toyota type iv to redline D4, as of yet not seen the four wheel drive faulty warning but I'm sure it will appear sometime soon as it not related to the fluid by all accounts it the software on 06 models and the stepper motor actuator and software on older cayenne. The bank 2 precat new lambda sensor also fitted (much more trick than the passenger side accessed from underneath and squeezed my cut and bruised arm passed the pipes and stuff in the way) had to heat up and bend the 22mm spanner about 15degrees I reckon. Battery disconnected for about 2 hours total. Did a throttle reset and let idle for 10 mins. Driving no real changes stutter is still prevalent. If I was being generous I would say it is marginally smoother around the other rpm's but definitely not the cure to this saga. Next job except the front differential oil swap which I wait until oil change is due, will be to experiment with crankshaft position sensor spacers! Also I may take the manifold off and fix the vent pipe at the rear and recheck for other vac leaks etc. Running out of ideas.
  35. 1 point
    Busy day planned today. First will be changing the bank 2 precat sensor and front differential oil for redline heavy shock to try and quiet down that noisy bearing at some speeds I can hear and hopefully extend its life for many more 1,000's km as I don't want it to break one day. Then will have a test to see if the bank 2 sensor replacement has any positive results. Following that I also have redline D4 atf fluid for the transfer case. The reason I'm going to change this again three reasons: 1. The current fluid is Toyota type iv which may or may not be exactly as per the transfer case spec it's highly debatable, but the D4 is the same spec as the esso 71... fluid spec Porsche recommends. 2. Noticed the transfer case leaks are worse and maybe could be caused by the fluid change or type can't be sure. 3. The transfer case on the cayenne and other vehicles ie BMW x3 has been reported for problems related to hesitation or drive related issues so going back to the spec'd fluid is the baseline idea. The random "faulty four wheel drive" warning also showed itself for the first time shortly after all fluids was replaced following head gaskets work but this also was the same time the temperature here increased considerably. So unsure if related or not to fluid type. Another line of thought is some Porsche and other brands suffer with crankshaft position sensor proximity to the crank Wheel and the Fix was to use a small spacer to give a little extra air gap and thus "clean up" the wave signal and make the dme a lot more happy with the info received and processed for all critical engine functions. As the cps is so easy to access and takes 5 mins to put a thin card spacer in, its something I may as well experiment with. The last thing on my radar is this exhaustive thread ( below) for VARIOCAM "bump" non smooth transition of the cam phasing which is plaguing other Porsche models and the symptoms they have are nearly exactly like what I have. This thread is so long I haven't got to the end yet! And yes the newer model have "variocam plus" valve lift adjustment and inlet cam adjustment) but they still feature the use of inlet cam advancement just like the cayenne. So even though I did test the variocam confirming it is working so to speak, it may not be Switching smoothly or at the correct time to produce a smooth power transition and thus the stutter hesitation and also the feeling of roughness when deaccelerating down to lower speeds and rpm just like the engines in the post experience. Idle dip may or may not be associated I'm not sure. Some people think it could be software related as they have nearly brand new cars but on the cayenne it's more likely a oil/mechanical or electrical / mechanical issue like blockages for oil flow/pressure through small orifices in actuator, oil viscosity vs older engine, cam actuator getting hot and malfunctioning, the cam phasing/timing chain stretched/worn. Many questions and not so many answers .......... Has anybody had or found any issue with the variocam on their cayenne? http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/300360-engine-stumble-hesitation-around-2500-rpm-8.html
  36. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 6946
  37. 1 point
    Bank 2 precat lambda sensor arrived today will be fitting tomorrow but not getting my hopes up this is the final cure. I'm also going back to basic of the cayenne engine and looking for leaks again. Inlet manifold will be coming off and will cut out those leaking rigid pipes at the back the turbo vent. I know they don't leak a physical amount of measurable air on the grand scheme of things so the chances of it being the cause of hesitation is remotely slim. Maybe I find a crack in the manifold or something drastic! What ever it is, it affects both banks and makes it run lean when warm / hot engine temps is all I know for sure. I did a propane test and can see both sensors show rich, then rev and both go lean. If not this, im back to dme or fuel delivery issues which is baffling me. Not to mention fuel trim numbers which look to goo to be true maybe? Stft 2.9 0.8 ltft 0.8 1. I think this is because at idle and cruise I have good mixture lambda 1 is showing on both banks but during acceleration or load with Fix throttle position ie going up slope is when you will fell it shudder stutter and hesitation. No codes ............... : (
  38. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 0974
  39. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Sorry, we can only help with the radios models listed in the FAQ.
  40. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 2708
  41. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 6532
  42. 1 point
    Richard Hamilton

    PCM2.1 Upgrade / Update

    There shouldn't be any problem updating your amp. The warning triangle might be caused by a fault, but I have seen lots of occasions where there are warning triangles and there are no operational problems with the system. Sometimes they clear after updates, and sometimes by clearing the fault memory with a PIWIS.
  43. 1 point
    chipmunk13

    Retrofit Cruise Control

    Thanks for the confirmation. I think I have a new project
  44. 1 point
    literally just did this a few days ago....it does come out with all coolant pipes in. after unbolting it, slide the starter back and pull the motor end up about 45 degrees. rotate the starter clockwise and sort of jiggle and pull and turn.
  45. 1 point
    Ahsai

    A noisy cricket

    A plastic clip/clamp? Good job tracking it down!
  46. 1 point
    ducbil

    Chiptuning to improve performance

    (commercial link removed) Please re-read the site Guidelines/Rules that you agreed to when you registered here. "No commercial posting, signatures, user names, avatars, or profile statements (including images) are allowed. Please understand "advertisements" will be either edited or deleted, as it's neither "fair" to those who support this site - nor "us", the RennTech.org community."
  47. 1 point
    kabel

    Horn Problem

    Thanks to all contributors to this topic. I just made this repair yesterday. It is nice to have a horn again, I could have used it several time over the past few days. <_< Thought I would add a pic to the thread of a bushing filled with the silicone.
  48. 1 point
    rettedm

    Horn Problem

    Update on silicone repair......well over a year since I filled my torn bushings with silicone and the horn still works normally. Regards, Dave
  49. 1 point
    jporter

    Horn Problem

    I had to fix my horn earlier this summer as it was stuck in the on position. This was discovered when I replaced a fuse – the boxster’s horn are loud in a confined area when not expected. The following image shows the basic concept of how I fixed the horn. The o-rings and Washers were purchased at ACE. The o-rings are made of black rubber and I believe are a #38 size – not positive on size number. The washer is made of white nylon and is 3/8 x 7/8. I used the thinner of the two washers that were available in the above diameter. I removed the old center parts of the rubber piece that was in each of the 4 holes since these were about ready to fall out from deterioration. You need to hang onto the old centers as they are used in the fix as shown below. I left as much rubber attached to the frame as possible as this is what holds and locates the frame between the o-rings. I added a nylon washer to provide some extra clearance between the frame and the contact. I had to tack this washer to the nearest o-ring with a small drop of super glue so that they would stay in place during the assembly to the steering wheel. This fix results in a stiffer horn so it is more difficult to toot the horn with you fingers. The horn does work when needed and does not bounce on the contacts.
  50. 1 point
    Tool Pants

    Horn Problem

    The rubber bushings inside the frame for the 4 spoke steering wheel air bag/horn are worn. Common complaint with the older 4 spoke steering wheels. The air bag is heavy and when it starts to move around due to the worn rubber bushings the horn beeps. It could happen when you hit a bump, hit the brakes, turn the wheel fast, whatever. When someone has purchased an older Box and they say the horns do not work, then you usually find that the horn fuse fuse or relay was removed rather than fixing the problem.