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Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/30/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Mr. Haney

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    Yes. But the bolts are difficult to get from underneath. I tried bending an end wrench and ended up making one by welding a socket to a cut off end wrench and grinding some away. The mounts drop by about 3/4 of an inch with wear.
  2. 2 points
    RFM

    Disconnecting Battery

    For ROW cars: ignition on, engine not running. So it should go.
  3. 2 points
    lewisweller

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    So it turns out Porsche are correct (why doubt them I hear some say) of the the two types one is a usual looking NBR seal and one has a brass band integrated around the seal which sits on the transmission case input shaft aperture I think I'm right in saying. Ending part number 302 "needle bearing version" was in fact the other type Mr. Haney, the one that fits my car is as attached and ends in 300 and is the "bush version" The garage confirmed the damage to the seal wasnt due to them prying it out! So something happened in there to rip a chunk out and mess up the seal proper style.
  4. 2 points
    Mr. Haney

    Turbo / MAF replacement, Oil found

    There's not much to know. The single vent tube coming from the passengers side valve cover pcv connection go's to the tee in the rear. This line is always under pressure except in decel. From the tee each side connects to the turbo scavenge tanks. The turbo scavenge pump sucks/pumps both air and oil and dumps it directly back to the oil pan. Replacing the plastic tee with a metal version should be standard practice for the 955. When you cut the metal crimps off you still have a barb to hold the hose on each metal pipe. If the scavenge tanks didn't have a vent pipe the pump would place the turbo's center cartridge under vacuum, not good. The 955 needs an external AOS, or catch can at minimum because the PCV system is terrible and geared towards low maintainence and emissions.
  5. 2 points
    dammad

    Cabriolet drains

    A quick addition to this thread. I noticed today that the 997.2 has two drains (per side) for the cabriolet roof. One dumps out at the front of the rear wheel, but the 2nd dumps out at the rear of the rear wheel. It exits at the point where the rear part of the rear wheel well cover finishes at the top. Make sure you give that one a clear too. I found I could reach it in the gap at the end of the wheel well cover. Pouring in some water around the top and then squeezing the outlet cleaned it out nicely.
  6. 2 points
    Attached is pdf file of a write-up that I just completed which details my recent water pump and coolant procedure. So that you will know what you will be getting if you decide to download the pdf, here is the first part of the introductory chapter and table of contents from the document. "Following the completion of my first water pump and coolant procedure on my 997 I decided to do this write-up so that I could use it the next time I do the job (hopefully not for several years). This write-up is, indeed, newbie rated and, consequently, every step is presented in great detail and the document is picture intensive. In doing my research for this procedure, I drew from a number of sources including less detailed write-ups and posts on the internet (e.g., Rennlist, Renntech, http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Flush_Coolant_System.html). While these were very helpful, I would have liked a newbie-rated write-up. So, I have decided to post my notes from the procedure in case it will be of benefit to others. Thanks to ‘JFP in PA’, Loren, ‘logray’, and ‘Dharn55’ on Renntech for their helpful advice." TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION CHAPTER 2: PARTS, SUPPLIES, TOOLS, AND PRELIMINARY WORK Parts and Supplies Tools Preliminary Work CHAPTER 3: REMOVE UNDERBELLY PANS AND WHEEL-WELL LINERS CHAPTER 4: REMOVE AIR CLEANER HOUSING CHAPTER 5: REMOVE DRIVE BELT CHAPTER 6: DRAIN THE COOLANT CHAPTER 7: WATER PUMP AND GASKET REMOVAL CHAPTER 8: INSTALLING NEW WATER PUMP AND NEW GASKET CHAPTER 9: REFILLING COOLANT CHAPTER 10: INSTALL THE DRIVE BELT CHAPTER 11: INSTALL THE AIR CLEANER HOUSING CHAPTER 12: INSTALL THE UNDERBELLY PANS CHAPTER 13: WRAP-UP
  7. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    It's finally my turn - RMS / IMS leak

    Welcome to RennTech The claim that lack lubrication is the only cause for IMS failures is a best suspect. With the early cars all carrying dual row bearings, lack of lubrication should have been more of a problem for them as they have twice the number of ball bearings in motion; yet just the opposite happened: The dual rows have proven to be vastly more durable than the single row bearings that came later. IMS failures are a much more complicated issue, with a variety of factors ranging from shaft wobble to materials of construction coming into play. The ceramic hybrid bearings LN uses only need a very low volume of oil from the mist inside the engine to lubricate properly; this is one of the reasons they designed this bearing this way to preclude the need for an outside oil source. Adding additional oil, particularly coming from the cylinder heads, is actually detrimental to the ceramic hybrid's survival. With more than 25,000 installations currently running on the streets, they would appear to have proven the design. Oil coming from the cylinder head is also one of the hottest and dirtiest sources for oil, making this is a bad idea. There have been multiple reports (we have had two in my shop alone) of both cylinder head noise issues as well as VarioCam problems when drawing an oil feed off the cylinder heads, both of which were solved by disconnecting the oil feed from the cylinder head source. There are now a variety of "me too" retrofit kits available in the market, ranging from cheap OEM type bearing replacements, to roller bearings, and oil fed kits; but only the LN systems have been both tested to destruction before they were taken to market and have proven themselves on the street with massive numbers of successfully performing installations. If your decision is based upon durability and life span over costs, take a close look at the LN IMS Solution, which is a solid bearing (no moving parts) design similar to the one used in the legendary air cooled turbo engines Porsche used to make. It uses an oil feed coming from the oil filter, so the oil is both clean and cool. Like other LN products, this system has been tested to destruction, including prolonged running without an oil supply, and survived every time. It is also the only retrofit that is a permanent life of the engine design.
  8. 1 point
    Read the DIY, you can get at it from below with the bumper cover on, but there is limited room.
  9. 1 point
    ekstroemtj

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    Such stupid mistakes from repair shops make me really angry. Same with me. My manyfold was 3 times off in the last 2 years. Starter. Breather Hose. 3. event i dont even remember. They dont think ahead. While already there i expect checking of items down. The breather hose for shure looks not good when they open first time for the starter. Nothing. 6 month later i went in for the hoses. They could do everything in one time
  10. 1 point
    dporto

    Which IMSB is this?

    You got it JFP and bruthah Justice! I had also sent the photo to LN engineering (it's their "classic dual-row retrofit")but hadn't heard back from them. Thanks for chiming in guys!
  11. 1 point
    First of all the 996 weight depends on it's accessories so its total weight is a moving target. However I don't know what all this leads up to if you want the extra horse power and a simple engine that produces a lot of grunt. I installed a LS3 480 HP, some GM specs says it's 495 HP, I won't argue that point... I put the car on aircraft scales and I'm 160 lb. lighter, however that is with the removal of the front diff. Also all the accessories are attached on the bottom of the engine, not on top, lower CG. The installation uses an electric water pump so no mechanical water pump. I can tell you it's no quick substitute for replacing the IMS bearing, clutch, etc. Making the Porsche and GM computers talk to one another was the biggest challenge. It's not for the shade tree mechanic... Now there's a lot of these conversions that throw used parts at the project, never deal with the blinking lights on the dash and only want to go 0-60 with their hair on fire, but to do it factory takes a lot of time and money. I don't think debating about a few pounds either way is really the question, it's time, money, performance, engine longevity, something different that is breath taking to drive. I took my car into the local Porsche dealership to put it on their OBD machine. When the guy drove the car into the mechanics stall the entire shop stopped working, took pictures, got under the car and were all in awe of the installation. Fortunately I didn't have to pay for the down time... I removed the front differential in favor of putting a taller ring and pinion in the car. At redline in 6th gear it pencils out at 206 MPH, not with me in it... At 80 MPH it's turning 2750 RPM, it's a lot quieter that the Porsche engine that is turning more RPM's. Bottom line, it's simple horse power and when you lift the deck lid you can see a real engine, not an air cleaner. Sorry in advance if I offended anyone...
  12. 1 point
    Loren

    M96 3.4 & 3.6 engine weight and LS Swap talk

    Creekman can substantiate what you say (since he did it)...
  13. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 1432
  14. 1 point
    Richard Hamilton

    OBC Hack

    Yes, you can. The OBC stalk is the only one you can remove. It is held on with two Allen screws, and will screw straight on to yours.
  15. 1 point
    Loren

    Airbag light on, fault code 20 driver ignition

    If the 3rd party scanner is correct with a fault code 20 then the explanation I gave you is correct. That information comes from my factory 2002 Porsche Boxster Service manual.
  16. 1 point
    Loren

    Airbag light on, fault code 20 driver ignition

    Fault code 20 -- Status lead, signal converter -- Short to ground 1. Pull plug I off the alarm system control module. 2. Pull off the plug on the signal converter for the transponder. 3. Ohmmeter at alarm system control module plug 1 pin 12 and ground, Display: Infinite ohms If display < 5 ohms check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.
  17. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    160 degree Wahler thermostat temperature test

    Usually the best source for the Gibbs oil is on line, it pops up on sale from a number of vendors who also throw in free shipping. Check out the usual suspects: Amazon, Jegs, etc.
  18. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 7698
  19. 1 point
    We have actually seen repeatable improvement in UOA's on cars going to the 160 stat along with the lower oil temps, demonstrating that the oil is happier running cooler. On base Boxsters, the combination of the 160 stat and larger "S" oil cooler showed significant improvements in oil life.
  20. 1 point
    Loren

    Fog light replacement on Cayenne

    Bulb or the whole assembly?
  21. 1 point
    lewisweller

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    Yep brass outer seal ring is for BUSH version like I have and you have. Ending 300. The other needle shaft version type seal ending 302 is NOT a revision old or new I did ask the Porsche part guy to clarify, they are simply different parts for different types fitted component. I reckon the 302 was fitted in the later module production line when they realised the 300 was going to leak in the future maybe? Some more pictures attached, this is the 302 seal and also some rather depressing images of my cars guts laying on the floor again.
  22. 1 point
    Mr. Haney

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    Well, My 04 turbo was manufactured in 3/04. I do have the needle bearing front pump. I picked up my Cayenne 1 owner with 65k. As far as I know from the service history and working on it the trans has never been replaced. It was always serviced where it was purchased by the original owner. I include a couple of pics here of the new seal sent to me ending in 4302. It has the same id, od, and direction of rotation as the original one I took out. For all purposes it is the same seal with the adittion of a full rubber casing compared to the originals brassy colored outer metal shell. Though, on the new one ending in 4302 you can see the brassy colored casing through the holes in the rubber. Maybe 4302 is just vthe latest revision to the part ending in 4300. But I do see the mention of a bushing and needle bearing versiion in the parts listing. Did you say you have the bushed style front pump Lewis? I think my original is what you are descri ing you have.
  23. 1 point
    Mr. Haney

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    I just bought one for my cayenne, im gonna go look at what they sent. Im gonna look at my trans and tc to see what style I have on my 04 turbo. Maybe I got the wrong one! Apologies for the misinformation!
  24. 1 point
    Mr. Haney

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    95532124302 is the correct part for your turbo v8. The v6, v8, and v8 turbo all use the same torque converter with a different stall speed for each. All three use the same tiptronic transmission with different number of clutch pack plates and frictions based on model with the turbo having the most. The v6 tipronic uses a bushed front pump where the the converter slides in while the s and turbo use a needle bearing.
  25. 1 point
    Mr. Haney

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    The seal rides on the t/c hub and has nothing to do with the input shafts. All the 955 v8's use the same size t/c and front pump. So....both the id and od of the seal will be the same across all of the 955 v8's. Interesting that there is a chunk missing. That is probably from the shop prying it out. The correct way to remove is to screw something in the metal ring between the seal lip and the od and then pull. A slide hammer works best. When the pipes let go and the coolant gets past the outer seal lip then. the glycol dries and crystalizes. Then it just sits in there and grinds away at the seal. Glad to see your fixing the Cayenne. You may just fall in love all over again!
  26. 1 point
    lewisweller

    Torque convertor seal is leaking

    The engine with transmission is out and split. Here is the seal with a very obvious chunk out of it, hence the rather large leak. They say there is a difference in the seal type dependant on the shaft, I have to say I don't know what to compare it to, so will take the old one to Porsche tomorrow and get the right one.
  27. 1 point
    DBJoe996

    Battery Advice for 1999 996 Cab 6spd

    Just thought to throw something in here. There are 2 factors to consider when choosing a battery. Cold cranking amps and reserve capacity. Usually the more CCA's the more reserve capacity. CCA applies when it is cold and you need the amps to start. Reserve capacity is what you need to keep the electrical system up to par with load on the system. Think of it this way, the reserve capacity helps balance the electrical load. Say you get an inexpensive battery without much reserve, then you are in stop and go traffic, AC on high, both radiator fans running at high speed, lights on, windshield wipers running, maybe even the engine compartment fan starts running, radio on and so on, you get it, the alternator is going to barely supply all the amperage draw and the battery helps balance out the demand. So don't go cheap on your battery. Get the best battery you can afford. And get an AGM battery. Well worth it.
  28. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 9604
  29. 1 point
    Yes. Push the microswitch on the latch when the top is down. You need a pen or screwdriver. Then you can raise the rear windows.
  30. 1 point
    Zakowsky

    Transmission leak 2004 CTT

    Sorry it didn’t sell Lewis, but $400 in labor, wow, I’m looking at 2 grand here! So as a true Poorsche owner, check out my short term solution. I basically catheterized the bell housing; I put a nylon hose fitting into the hole where the ATF leaks from, ran that into a clear tube with a sealed end. The goal was to separate how much was leaking from the gasket still and how much (and how fast) it was coming out the torque converter seal. The line tucks up inside the cross member when I am driving. After a few days I can see now that all the ATF is coming entirely from the seal, and I am losing about 5 mls per day. That gives me about 3-4 months before the transmission starts acting up I figure. Ironically the system actually works pretty well, no more mess or drips. So now all I have to do is slap a 0.2 micron filter on the line, tap a port into the transmission and recirculate the ATF, problem solved! Just kidding...kind of!
  31. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Ignition wire gasket

    It will. I'd suggest ordering a replacement.
  32. 1 point
    I determined that the cause of my problem was Durametric 6.5.3.5 not being able to reset codes. The 6.5.3.6 version released on 5/3/17 has fixed this bug. Plugging in the seat belt receptacle to the wiring harness, turning the ignition on and clearing the code did the trick.
  33. 1 point
    Ahsai

    Low oil pressure after oil change

    Oh right. For some reason I thought this filter is from your own car. Glad to hear it's not.
  34. 1 point
    Schnell Gelb

    Low oil pressure after oil change

    I described the whole story in another Thread. The short version is the owner put Bardahl No Smoke and some other snake oil in his oil to 'fix' a red 'Low Oil Pressure" Warning Light. I did an oil pressure test and dropped the filter and pan. Cut the filter & voila. Correct oil+new filter fixed it !
  35. 1 point
    Schnell Gelb

    Low oil pressure after oil change

    Here is a photo of the collapsed filter pleats on a Napa 1042
  36. 1 point
    Schnell Gelb

    Low oil pressure after oil change

    Interesting point about the flow capacity being 2-3 times greater than conventional filters. It can do no harm ..? Unless they just double the pore diameter ! The recommendation on the LN site is: " We use the Napa Gold 1042 or Platinum 1042 " . It would be interesting to read what LN say about the flow capacity issue. I'm not suggesting there is a problem with LN's recommendation but the incremental cost is small, so why not ? Perhaps LN would say that if a paper-element filter collapses because the oil was too viscous, no higher-flow filter would behave differently. The problems are different. If the problem was dirty oil and half the pores in either filter were blocked - yes, the highr flow filter has an advantage. Moral of the speculation- use the correct grade of oil w/o snake oil additives ? http://lnengineering.com/products/other-watercooled-stuff/spin-on-oil-filter-adapter-for-my97-08-boxster-cayman-911.html Some smart people also mention the synthetic media upgrade here years ago (Napa/Wix 51042XP): Here is a cross reference site for the geeks: http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/ http://wixfilters.com/Lookup/InterchangeMultiSearch.aspx?q=51042XP&o=me
  37. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 3018
  38. 1 point
    Schnell Gelb

    Battery Maintainer

    The LED bulb replacement is a great project. Somone should write up a Tutorial with all the part numbers and a good source for the new bulbs? Thanks for the suggestion.
  39. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 9391
  40. 1 point
    Mr. Haney

    Outlet Chamshaft Deviation invalid

    What is interesting to me is that the head bolts, the ex. cam sprocket, and the Intake cam adjuster all use the same exact m12-1.5x140 bolt. The head bolts end up at 22ft lbs with a final torque angle of 90°. The exhaust cam sprocket bolt ends up at 37ft lbs and 90° torque angle. And, the intake sprocket/adjuster bolt ends up at 37ft lbs with a whopping? 135° torque angle. How does the same bolt cover so much ground? These are stretch bolts and Porsche states that the head bolts can be reused. Porsche also states that the cam adjuster/sprocket bolts can be reused if the bolts and diamond washers are only loosened and not completely removed. Am I the only one that thinks there is no difference once it's been torqued and loosened?
  41. 1 point
    Loren

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 9092
  42. 1 point
    Ahsai

    Secondary Air Test Readiness monitor incomplete

    Hey, you're welcome. I actually meant you need to verify the following normal pattern during cold start, not about any DTC's or any info from Durametric (other than the actual voltage): When the SAI pump is running Pre-cat O2 voltage starts at 0.44v, then tapers to almost 0 at around 20 seconds or so Post-cat O2 voltage starts at 0.44v then tapers to 0 before the pump stops Once the SAI pump stops running Pre-cat O2 voltage will swing between 0.2 to 0.7v every couple of seconds Post-cat O2 voltage will stay at ~0.7v
  43. 1 point
    alabamatoy

    Hydraulic oil for convertible top motor

    Pentosin CHF seems to work fine. Its readily available from most el-cheapo car parts chains. I am told that Pentosin CHF is what most of the German marques call for, all except Porsche.
  44. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Engine mount bolt

    You need to loosen up the other bolts and jiggle the engine around a bit while supporting it until the last bolt can be started.
  45. 1 point
    Donzee

    Air suspension trouble (Level control)

    Hi, I am Maarten from Amsterdam, NL. I drive a 2003 Cayenne turbo that has a faulty air suspension. I had the yellow "airsuspension faulty" message a couple of times over the last two years but now the car "lies on the floor" with a red airsuspension warning. Compressor is not running, when I connect the spare tire hose: no pressure either. When I bench-test the compressor directly it runs fine. At that point I decided I need a diagnostics computer and bought a Durametric kit. I get the following error messages from the Level Control module: 2250 (valve operating time exceeded, upper limit value exceeded) 1575 (manual control switched of) 778 (steering angle sensor, No signal/communication) [Cornering lights do not work either] 1487 (System function test faulty, Implausible signal) 1772 (Signal lead for pressure sensor, Implausible signal) When I try to read the actual values, I see things like compressor temperature and Compressor relay (off). I also read "System Status Number Control Mode" which reads 4010. "Deviation from normal level" and "absolute vehicle heights" also show plausible numbers. Battery is in good shape. When I scroll further down, there are many signals that do not show any values and that seems strange to me: "Accumulator pressure", "Terminal 15" all stay blank. Maybe these are simply not supported by Durametric? Any tips? Where is the pressure sensor located (related to 1772)? Can I start the compressor manually to fill the system? I know the Porsche tester can fill/bleed the Level Control System Thanks in advance, Maarten
  46. 1 point
    moosey

    2012 Cayenne S oil change steps/photos

    Don't have an Owners Manual? You can download it here. It is 9.5 quarts (or 9 liters) for the V8 engines. One drain at the bottom most part of the oil pan. I don't recall the wrench size but the drain plug is M18. The is a nut on the top of the oil filter housing (24 mm as I recall) or you can use an oil filter wrench. I believe it is the same oil filter wrench as used on other Porsche models. Nothing tricky or complicated here - drain, replace filter (and o-ring), new sealing ring on drain plug, add oil -- done. Oil Filter - 948-107-222-00 US MSRP $22.56 O-ring for filer assembly - 948-107-322-00 US MSRP $7.58 Sealing ring for drain plug - 900-123-106-30 US MSRP $1.39 Thanks Loren, so there are only one oil drain plug? when i went to purchase the oil filter the parts guy gave me two crush rings for two drain plugs. Just wanted to let everyone know that the nut on the oil filter cannister is 36mm and you need a shallow socket to remove it because there is not alot of wiggle room for standard size socket. You can purchase the specially made socket which most factory porsche technicians go to purchase there tools. The place is AST or Assemaucher Specialty Tools. The socket part number is( AST 2136).
  47. 1 point
    Thanks for taking the time to document all this extensive work. It will surely save someone a lot of money. I had to pay 2300 $ to fix that problem. Thanks again.
  48. 1 point
    Loren

    Android App Torque and BlueTooth OBD II I/F

    Got some real life use from this the other day. Turned out very handy. My wife and I were on our way to the doctors office in my 2001 Mercedes CLK55. We were in the parking garage and it idled and died. Would not restart. I also learned that very few tow trucks can pick up a car in a parking garage with a 12.5 foot ceiling. Any way - had the car towed home and placed in the street in front of my house. Hooked up the Bluetooth OBD II and ran Torque on my Android phone.... One fault P0358 Crankshaft Position Sensor. Wow! Exactly what you would expect - the crankshaft position sensor fails and then the DME thinks the car is not running (no flywheel movement according to the sensor) - so the DME shuts off the gas. Got a new sensor and installed it. Car started right up and I checked the codes and the P0358 had already cleared. I drove the car around near my home while monitoring coolant, MAF, and O2 sensors. Got it good and hot to make sure the problem was fixed. So after the first real world use of Torque and the Bluetooth OBD II plug I would give a :thumbup: If you have an Android phone and are willing to spend about $50 on the Bluetooth OBD II and Torque app I think you will be pleasantly surprised at what you can see with it.
  49. 1 point
    Kim

    Cautionary warning & heads up for Cab owners

    Scouser, Here's what I posted here last February. At the same time I also posted some details on the tools and tricks necessary to gain access to the rear quarter drain area, and to remove the front and rear seats .... so as to remove carpet for drying. Kim 2000 Cab Here is the lesson learned for you Cab owners: a small plastic drain tray runs along the side wall behind the inner upholstery panel beside each back seat. A right angle fitting leads from the low point, sideways through the inner body panel and into the void ahead of the rear tire. If you remove the rear wheel, then the forward side wheel well liner, all you see is the metal body panel right behind it. Almost at the bottom of the body panel is the outlet for the drain tube. The outlet itself is a simple plastic check valve with a rubber flapper valve about the size of a nickel. Therein lies the problem. The rubber was stiff with age, and gummed up about 90% with the same kind of crud you clean out of your gutters ... fine, wet, black gunk. When my car was out in the pouring rain at the airport for 2 days, the 10% drain capacity left was clearly not enough to handle the water flow, and a gallon or so ended up in my back seat floor. I pulled the flapper off, blew out the drain with air, then soaked the flapper in Lexol conditioner to soften it before reinstalling. Considered leaving the rubber flapper off, but was afraid that road debris might come in the other way to block it. Going to pull the driver's side wheel and liner tomorrow. My car has been kept in a garage ... no reason to suspect more than average debris in the drain. You Cab owners might wish to add this to your "check every now and then" list.
  50. 1 point
    GreggT

    Cruise Control Not Working

    Cruise shares the Row B #7 fuse with the brake light........so either check the fuse or your lights. I have the same problem on the Turbo right now, only I have no dash light, nothing. I'd never heard the battery suggestion so I'll charge it tonight to test........any other ideas welcome here also.....TIA.