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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/20/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points

    Lost Radio Code - FAQ -- Read This FIRST

    Which radios fitted to Porsche can have their unlock code recovered through serial number? - CR-220/CDR-220 - Becker - CR-210/CDR-210 - Becker - Traffic Pro NAV/CD - Becker Which radios can not have their unlock code recovered through serial number? - CR1 - Alpine - CDR-23/24 (or later) - Becker - PCM (Porsche Communication Management) – Siemens & Becker How to get your radio serial number? CR-220/CDR-220: Hold down the TP button for at least 10 seconds after you turn the radio on. "Becker 1" will be displayed. Rotate the right knob (slowly) and it will display the Becker model number. Then rotate it again and the serial number should be displayed on the radio. Or, if the radio is out of the car the then the serial number is on the label. CR-210/CDR-210: Press tone, then 8 and 0 simultaneously. "Becker" appears. Press station up arrow on right. "PR-VERS" appears. Press one of numbered buttons below display, directly below the LCD arrowheads (try a few). The model number will appear. Press station up arrow on right. "SERIAL N" will appear. Press the numbered button again. The serial number will appear. Or, if the radio is out of the car the then the serial number is on the label. CDR-23 (or later): These radios do not have a security code - that is, not that the user enters. These radios are security tested on the MOST (fiber optic bus) system to see if they are the "programmed" radio. The radios are programmed and recognized by the car’s DME and can only be replaced by a shop with a PST2 or PIWIS. These radios will not request a code when battery power is disconnected. Traffic Pro: Select the Service Menu, press NAV and multifunction key 10 simultaneously in radio mode. Use multifunction keys Nxt and Prv or turn the right control knob to select the individual items. You can move through the following items: - Model-No. - Serial-No. <-- this is what we need - Changer Reset - GAL - Radio Software - Radio Bolo - Navi Rom - Navi Flash - RTC Value To quit the service menu, press END. I get a WAIT in the display - what do I do? You have to wait at least 30 minutes before trying again. The suggested number did not work - what do I do now? Most often when the code we give you does not work it is because the serial number came from an old card in the car rather than from the procedure stated above - or a typo in the serial number submitted. Double check the serial number you submitted using the procedure above again. If that does not work then you will need to contact a dealer or Becker. Becker charges to look up your code and some dealers also charge. Our program works maybe 99.9% of the time but we have no explanation why it doesn't always work. Can you give me a code for my PCM? These units are manufactured jointly by Siemens and Becker, and the only place where you can get the codes required is from the dealer/OPC. The PCM’s require two codes, the ICS/Siemens code and a Becker code. The ICS is the first code requested. Sorry, the only place you can get a PCM code is from a dealer/OPC. Can I post my VIN to get a code? We do NOT need your VIN - only your radio serial number. Where can I post my lost code request? Please post your request here: Lost Radio Code - post your request here Please DO NOT PM me or email me (or anyone else helping with the codes) your radio code request - we will only answer requests in that one thread.
  2. 4 points
    Dr Pepper

    Coolant Pressure Test Kit - Buyers guide

    Cayenne 2003 4.5S I needed to pressure test my coolant system to identify a leak that, when hot, could be smelt but not seen & when cold didn't leak! I wanted to buy a Coolant Pressure Test Kit but was not sure which one to buy. During my research, I noticed there was one type of generic non-branded 'universal' kit that appeared multiple times on the general market (eBay & Amazon for instance).. Most listing for this generic kit listed all the car types it would fit but of course, Porsche was not listed - however, a few VAG applications were listed so I took a punt & ordered one of these kits for UK £45.00. The good news is that one of the VAG adapters supplied (#9) fits the Cayenne the header tank & I was able to perform the test on my cold engine & immediately, the leak was apparent. The purpose of my ramblings here is to share with you the kit I bought & the adapter used so you don't have to guess & take a chance as I did. I hope this helps someone. BTW, finally my luck ran out - it was my original plastic coolant pipes that gave up the ghost (there can't be many 2003 models out there still running their original plastic pipes)
  3. 4 points
  4. 2 points

    engine will not crank

    Check the earth strap from battery to the chassis in front of the drivers seat. High resistance or corrosion causing high resistance in that cable can cause no starts, the cable may feel warm when the car is running also. Check the positive cable as well! When you use a spare battery for jumping you by pass that cables high resistance to an extent. Another possible common issue is temperature sensor or crank shaft position sensor fault(seen a lot on other vw models). The other alternatives is a long list of wiring and components which could be failing under high heat conditions. Good luck with your search hope you find it.
  5. 2 points

    replace window regulator

  6. 2 points

    2004 Air Spring Replacement on Turbo

    Does this help?
  7. 2 points

    FYI - Low Voltage Issue at operating temperature

    I want to share an experience I had with my 2002 996. For the past several months, after a cold start, my initial volts held steady at 13.8v indicated. As I drove around, I had problems with the voltage dropping to 12.5-13 volts without any accessories turned on after the car reached operating temperatures ~180 degrees. Once I turned on the A/C, the volts dropped below 12. This has left me having to jump the car a few times. First thoughts typically range from a bad battery, alternator to starter. Like many, I headed to the local parts store to have the battery, alternator and starter tested - all passed. Second reaction is to clean the terminals on the battery and grounding points, yet the problem persists and leave a few scratching their heads. I checked voltage drops between components, I checked for AC volts to see if I had a bad diode, and recharged my battery. In my research, Porsche 996/997s have a well known issue within the community that the positive wiring from the junction box to the starter to the alternator tend to go bad prematurely - corrosion typically seen on the starter wiring. What happens as I understand it is that when the car is cool, the wire coming off the starter is cool and electrons flow fairly easily (note the initial 13.8v at start up). As the car heats up, so does this wire and in doing so, the heat coupled with the corrosion reduces the overall voltage/amps going to the alternator making the alternator operate sub optimally thereby reducing available voltage at operating temperatures (12.5-13v). When the accessories are turned on, more volts/amps are needed, but the alternator is struggling to put it out while maintaining the average 13.8-14.2v seen on healthy cars. I pulled the alternator and starter to have them tested independently removed from the car. In doing so, I visually inspected the wiring harness connecting these components. As I did this, I noticed pretty bad corrosion on the wire coming off the starter as you can see in the pictures. I knew immediately what my problem was given an all 'pass' on my battery, alternator, and starter at the parts store. I ordered a replacement. Even though my problem was pretty obvious after seeing the wire, I recommend getting the individual parts tested as they will be out anyway when replacing the wire. It's still good practice to clean all the grounding points (engine to chassis, battery terminals, etc). I hopes this helps others having similar problems. Ken
  8. 2 points
    It’s not hard - and you might as well top it up while you are at it too. Get a liter of Mobil D3309 transmission fluid and a pump for the bottle with a long hose. You can put it on jack stands, but I just put it in special terrain mode and turn off regulation (important!). Make sure it is level. Crack the filler plug (17 mm allen hex wrench) before you start, as it might take some force. Don’t remove it. Put a tray underneath for spills. Then start the engine and monitor transmission temperature with whatever is your cable of choice. When it gets to around 36 degrees, take the plug out and stick the hose in. When it gets to 40 degrees, pump in the fluid until it overflows, close it up and you are good to go. If the fluid in there on the plug is a golden or amber color, it might be the original fluid. The Mobil is red, and I am not sure if mixing them is OK, but after reading countless threads I think it is. But everyone has a different opinion of these kinds of things. If it is red then the fluid has probably been changed before. You said you think it’s low - a good sign that it is low is when you start driving when it is cold and soon after starting the engine, it goes into 1st with PSM on (as you know it should start in 2nd). When it is really low, it won’t want to shift from 2nd to 3rd. This will happen independent of any valve body issues. Good luck.
  9. 2 points
    Richard Hamilton

    PIWIS 2 coding PCM 2.1

    An 04 Cayenne should have PCM2.0, so it might be something else in the system preventing it from changing the VIN in the PCM. I guess the 2.1 must have been retrofitted.
  10. 2 points

    Auxiliary battery in trunk

    The starter battery is only used for starting - controlled by a relay when try to start. Everything else is on the main battery circuit.
  11. 2 points

    Upgrades for Boxster Seats

    I hope that others find this information helpful.
  12. 2 points

    Visor mirror cover flaps

  13. 2 points

    Replacing the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator

    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
  14. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 8301
  15. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 1401
  16. 1 point
    You did well buying an amp for £90. Make a note of the part number, and be careful if you ever update the PCM software (firmware). Early amps can be bricked if you try to update them. There are ways round it though, using a special update disk.
  17. 1 point
    If you put the loop in place of the amp (assuming it is faulty), all the messages should go, except for "no sound". The other systems should start working, albeit you will only have control, but no sound. At least it would prove a point, without spending £200 on a used amp and finding nothing is wrong. Here is a cheaper one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282264819294 You can get them even cheaper if you buy from a Chinese seller (and wait). You need the female version.
  18. 1 point
    I would suggest getting a MOST loop and putting it in place of each unit (phone, CDC, amp) one at a time to see if one is faulty. For example, the CDC has an internal fuse, and if it blows it breaks the MOST circuit. You can get them on eBay for a few pounds. Search Porsche MOST loop.
  19. 1 point

    Cold Start Tapping Noise Thread Update

    If that's the true cause, that means the oil pressure is lower than designed (which makes some metal parts tap). You question will be the same as asking what would happen if I keep driving the car if it's oil pressure is too low.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Cold Start Tapping Noise Thread Update

    Yours would not be the first one.............
  22. 1 point
    Have you by any chance tried to update the software?
  23. 1 point

    Cold Start Tapping Noise Thread Update

    A sound/video clip will help a lot in this case. Usually tapping is not from a lifter but rather from bore scoring. To eliminate the pulleys, you can remove the serpentine belt and hand spin each pulley and feel for any grittiness and noise. If it's bore scoring, a thicker oil can only mask the symptoms.
  24. 1 point
    The car needs to scanned with a Porsche diagnostic tool - PIWIS (or PIWIS 2). In some case the fiber optic link has been broken or options changed and a re-configuration is in order. In other cases you may actually have a bad connection or component -- PIWIS will tell the operator where the problem is.
  25. 1 point
    Schnell Gelb

    Error P1502 2000 Boxster S

    Brilliant and helpful but we do not understand why this rapid cycling of the switch works. The 'new battery' fix works because the voltage was too low to activate the throttle 'jack' mechanism? The cycling may work because it is just cleaning the contacts in the ignition switch ? Either way, a new Ignition switch and battery is a cheaper & simpler solution than the MAF+DME+TB+ list given initially. But after battery replacement, don't forget the Initialization Procedure ! And get your radio code ready before you disconnect. Thanks for sharing
  26. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Hi, I inherited a Porsche Boxster but no radio code. Hope you can help me. Type 4467, Serial # X5018866 Thanks
  27. 1 point
    That plug is for emission and diagnostic and it's not plugged into anything. It is put in a holder next to the right engine mount.
  28. 1 point

    fuel delivery system

    Up to 2006 all models used only in tank primary and secondary pumps. Later models have the hpfp located at the back of bank 2. Yours is 2005 turbo I believe so you won't have hpfp. Your set up will therefore be exactly the same as the you tube video posted above.
  29. 1 point

    fuel delivery system

    All the same yes.
  30. 1 point
    What if you disconnect the MAF and drive the car? Will the engine still misfire?
  31. 1 point

    Lost Radio Code - post your request here

    Try 5603
  32. 1 point
    The click I mentioned was when you plug in the electrical connector to the coil, not when you push the coil in.
  33. 1 point

    Service interval

    Hi, Porsche service intervals are based on either fixed mileage or two yearly period. Check your handbook for the service chart and then your mileage and service book stamps. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point
    I let the Dealer I bought it from know all of the Porsche dealer's findings and they agreed to replace all the affected parts! So they have all the items in and I just have to drop it off for a few days while they replace the above items! I will post a follow up once everything has been taken care of. Thanks, Ryan
  35. 1 point
    The codes are telling you exactly what is wrong - 1 and 3 misfires. You can push the rubber boot up the wiring harness on the coils and make sure they are plugged in correctly. They must firmly click into place and be fully seated in the coil connector.
  36. 1 point

    p2122 code/psm light on

    In addition i can tell you. On my very first cayenne i have it. Still until now. The porsche shop changed almost everything. Throttle body. MAF, a lot of sensors. Guess what, nothing solved the problem
  37. 1 point

    p2122 code/psm light on

    Good Morning. PSM failures are very strange and most of the time in some way electric issues. First check voltage of your battery please
  38. 1 point

    Panamera questions considering car

    I was looking at 2010 turbos, until I found a 2012 with the color (exterior/interior) and all the other options I wanted. It cost $10,000 more than the 2010, but I felt having a 2 year newer MY was worth it. 18,000 miles. Car looks new. Was literally owned by a little old lady who only drove it on Sundays. Here is where I bought it. Ask for Larry . . . http://www.ultimomotors.com/inventory/used-2012-porsche-panamera-turbo-all-wheel-drive-hatchback-wp0ac2a74cl090601
  39. 1 point

    2005 Cayenne Turbo Brake Light Switch Location

    Lol I made the same mistake. The switch is a hydraulic integral one on the abs pump or the master cyclinder. For your fault code first check your battery is OK. 12.6v engine off ignition off and 14v engine at idle or any rpm stable. Then check wiring for damage and moisture around connectors to the abs pump. Lastly the abs pump may have an electrical issue. good luck.
  40. 1 point

    Generator / Alternator failure ctt 06

    Starter is out and guess what it works just fine on the bench! WTF Took it apart and the brushes are like new plenty of life left in the old girl. reassembled after a clean up and retested perfect. so 3 possible issues: 1. The starter is ok until put under load 2. The engine is seized and the starter cant turn it over (tomorrow will turn the engine manually and disconnect the drive belt to spin alternator water pump and ac pulley to make sure nothing is seized) 3. The new battery plus jump starting of my spare battery and the Audi is also not enough power to crank the V8 over. Tomorrow will put it back in the car and try to crank it over direct off the starter with spare battery after I confirm the engine is turning manually freely. I got a theory of the sequence, the battery failed on Thursday and the car stalled, cranking wouldn't work as defective battery was too far gone, then the new battery came with a low state of charge and despite jump starting there isn't enough juice to get it to turn over?? I don't have a battery charger which is a huge PITA, so tomorrow have to buy one FFS.
  41. 1 point

    Generator / Alternator failure ctt 06

    Well the alternator is done! What a total nightmare of a job, the new (reconditioned) alternator was marginally bigger than the old one and I spent literally 2 hrs getting it back in, hands are a mess right now. Started her up with the assistance of a battery off my diesel generator, and after a few mins disconnected the donor battery and tested the charging voltage a healthy stable 13.6volts, made the whole ordeal worth it. Topping off coolant tomorrow and clear codes, throttle alignment etc and a quick wash before going for a blast to see how it runs now and excited to see if the other gremlins have actually disappeared or not. Couple things to note, the coolant pipe connector on the new Alternator was different and I had to modify it to fit the bolt hole (third picture) and it also was orientated differently meaning it faced up and towards the right fender (second picture new alternator and connectors reused) as opposed to towards the front bumper(first picture original alternator fitment). Luckily by opening out the hole on the plastic retaining as much metal insert as possible for strength, cutting the spigot slightly shorter and rerouting the coolant hose I was able to reuse the existing fittings with just new O-rings. Porsche here is shut for 4 days Muslim holiday, (I wasn't being stingy reusing the parts and I wasn't waiting 4 days either..............impatient). I also did not reinstall the pointless extra half moon shape metal part that bolts on the alternator and curves around the pulley, I just made sure the pipes etc all were secure and can't rub or touch any rotating parts. The boost hoses removed I replaced the O-rings whilst there and I also replaced front brake pads for brembo (pagid) originals, and the passenger side upper suspension arm which had play in it and as you can see the ball joint socket was oval! (Picture four) I broke it getting it out, had to beat it, tight as ****. Thanks to posting members for support and I hope none of you ever have to do this job.
  42. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    New 996 Owner - headlight question

    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Be extremely careful with aftermarket bulbs in these headlights. Many of them run much hotter than the factory bulbs and end up melting the lenses: If you want better, and much brighter headlights, look around for someone selling the Litronic HID factory lights for either the 996 or early (986) Boxsters (they are all the same). These are way brighter, but actually run cooler than the halogens.
  43. 1 point

    trans oil change and transgo shift kit install.

    Ok my kit arrived today. Comes with a manual. Mine only hard shifts from 5th back to 4 when hot so it seems i don't have to mess with the solenoids at all. I'm loving this kit already. I already did the first 2 steps. Tomorrow i'll finish it off. Quite excited :) For those who are still doubting: valve body repair can be done at home by any backyard mechanic. @ Krunkymonkey: Thanks for your help!
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point

    2005 Cayenne Turbo Brake Light Switch Location

    So your car is really a MY05 and the stop light control is provided by the ABS/PSM system. Here is where the output signal goes on MY05 and newer.
  46. 1 point
    Is it possible to upgrade dynamic cornering light on porsche 997 1.generation?
  47. 1 point

    No power to Homelink!

    Recently had a dead battery in my '06 997S. After a jumpstart and running the engine for a while the battery seems to be charged again. However I discovered my Homelink settings were erased. When I try to reset or reprogram the Homelink I get no response or flash from the Homelink LED light. I'm guessing this must be a fuse issue as I noticed the "orientation light" is also not illuminating. Can someone please inform me which fuse controls this area? All "dome" or map lights work fine. Appreciate any help. Just discovered both seat heaters are also non-functional now! Power seat adjustments still work. Ideas?
  48. 1 point

    No power to Homelink!

    Loren, you were correct! Just picked up the car from the dealer. The "control unit lost coding" and required a "reprogram and redo vehicle handover". My battery and alternator were all OK. Everything is back in working order. I've ordered the Chargo-O-Mat II battery chager to help prevent this in the future. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Steve
  49. 1 point

    Alignment setting for the 997S-20mm

    This is for MY05 only (at this point):
  50. 1 point

    Becker Amplifier BE 6600

    Harman = Becker