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Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
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    For this instance... M96/03 is the series number. The first 3 numbers of the engine serial number map to a specific production year (665 maps to 2005 for this engine series). The numbers that follow are the actual engine serial number.
  5. 1 point
    If the AOS is working properly, removing the oil fill cap creates a vacuum leak which upsets the idle.
  6. 1 point
    P1181 Positive Crankcase Ventilation Heater Output Stage – Below Limit Possible fault cause - Short circuit to ground in triggering wire - Positive crankcase ventilation heater faulty (short circuit to engine ground) - DME control module faulty
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    I know a fellow in France who has converted Middle East units to EU maps. I think you can have more than one region on the system, but either way you have to have an Activation Code for the EU maps, which is entered using a PIWIS, before loading the maps.
  9. 1 point
    I do not know why this is either but the Porsche parts list does show several different regional PCM control units.
  10. 1 point
    Just to close this off - the issue was the plug which connects to the vent valve at the filler neck. It was reversed when plugged in. When I replaced the valve I reinstalled the plug in the incorrect position. Doh! Car takes fuel perfectly now. Now for the next project....
  11. 1 point
    Gotcha. I see now that the Gogal-branded CCV is not available from Amazon anymore. Bummer! For people that may read this thread in the future, Polar Bear, Inc. should have the correct valve available--albeit for a few dollars more than the Gogal. The trick is getting the right one. It looks a lot like their EX 007 but you will need to verify! Currently selling for $62.79 with free shipping.
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    I recall that comes from the intake (vacuum line).
  15. 1 point
    Thanks Tom M!!!! I received my sensors from tpms.com today. Had them installed and they were working within a few minutes!!! Huge thanks for this. Roch
  16. 1 point
    Hey, I think that is my picture (-: But when this happened it was making a loud clacking noise, not a groan. The picture shows the top mount for a C4, which is quite different from a C2. in the last couple of years my car started making unbelievable groaning noises when the steering wheel was turned. Replaced the front lower control arms and the noise is gone.
  17. 1 point
    1) do not buy Beck / Arnley CPS. Though it says made in germany, they sell a defective unit. Bought 2 sensors, the measurement across pins are different between two units. Another poster had a problem too. yes it's 1/2 the price of Bosch, but it doesn't work. For me durametric said the value was off, but was not causing a code. I replaced with B&A, car couldn't start, so i put back the original/genuine. 2) If you are very careful, you can replace from top; get a skinny T10 socket (male), get at Harborfright for ~10. remove 2ndary air pump, and you will find cps. remove connector, carefully remove the screw and take out the unit. the oring tend to stay on the block side.
  18. 1 point
    The dual mass flywheel is the only source of harmonic dampening in the engine, removal of that capability can lead to serious issues, like cracked (or worse) crankshafts. These engines are not particularly well internally balanced from the factory, so the dual mass dampening is rather important. More than one leading Porsche engine builder has recommended against using single mass flywheels unless the entire engine components and the flywheel are properly rebalanced as a unit. A second consideration is how well the single mass itself is balanced; we have seen several that were 10 grams (and more) out as delivered. These flywheels are also difficult to have accurately balanced; only a handful of machine shops can do a proper job. And even after one is correctly rebalanced, they still can be a bit of a pain to drive on the street due to clutch chatter related issues.
  19. 1 point
    There is a small white plastic cup shaped like a small funnel directly under the drain hole and the foam liner. Sometimes that cup/funnel gets separated from the drain tube, and sometimes the cup/funnel develops a hairline crack due to age and vibration. In either case, it will cause a leak into the cabin. In order to properly seal it, you have to remove the foam drain tray liner. You can remove the foam liner only after removing the top frame assembly. If you look at the other parts of the DIY from where you got the photo that you posted, you will find instructions on how to remove the complete top and frame assembly. It's not overly complicated as it basically involves removing three 13mm bolts from each side of the frame base. Also, if there is no crack or tear in the foam drain tray, and there is a good seal between the foam drain tray and the drain tube (at the little "funnel"), the water can stay in there almost indefinitely as the drain tray material is waterproof. Regards, Maurice.
  20. 1 point
    I have a 97 986. After a big rain, the car smelled moldy. The passenger carpet was completely soaked. It was fall and my first suspicion was fallen leaves had clogged a drain. After a cursory check of the drain tray, which looked fine, I started inspecting the drain lines front and back. It turned out that the culprit was the drain tray. It seals the cabin from water. I discovered it when driving right after a rain. I heard water sloshing behind the rear bulkhead. It seeps into the cabin slowly over the course of a day or two, so it isn’t an instant event in case you want to test it. A month or so earlier, the plastic cups on the pushrods popped off the top ball socket and likely pierced the foam tray. I can't say this for certain but after inspecting the positions of the front drains, I don't believe they will spill into the cabin if clogged. The rear drains, if clogged, will back up onto the foam tray. You should have sitting water there after rain. If it isn't, your problem has to be the foam drain which is no longer sealed. The fact that your car was recently painted suggests they may have been removed and replaced. On my car the foam doesn’t come out. If yours lifts out that might be sign. To repair mine, I filled the perforations with RTV and used a plastic tape to seal it. Be sure to check both sides. Good luck. By the way, the alarm sensor module under the driver seat can be irreparably damaged if soaked. A word of caution should you inspect the drains, I accidentally punched out the tubing on the front driver side drain while using a screw driver to see if it was clogged. It was a nightmare to put back together. The plastic tubing fits into a grommet and if you use too much force it comes apart. There is no way to get into that space from above. I had to disconnect the steering rack from below.
  21. 1 point
    The amount of melted plastic housing around my switch apparently made it too difficult for me to epoxy and properly line-up the tabs so I PM'd RFM and he gave me some tips on what to order. The folks at Sunset Porsche are shipping me a repair kit (Renntech.org discount). > Thank you for your inquiry with Sunset Porsche Parts. There is a kit for this repair. It may come with a couple extra pieces but the only way to get the parts you need is to order the kit. With your discount pricing, the kit is currently $83.24 (plus shipping to get to you). Once you are ready to place this order, we could get it from the warehouse, which usually takes 3-5 business days, and then we can ship it to you. Since we are a Porsche dealership, these are genuine factory Porsche parts. > Once I have the parts and have it repaired I'll post an update. And if anyone wants pictures let me know and I'll put together a DIY document. Thanks again all.
  22. 1 point
    To verify that none of the water is going into the cabin, you can do the following test. Place a drain pan under the car, directly under the rocker panel just forward of the left rear wheel. Any water that drains from the convertible top foam drain tray on that side normally exits from a tube that is hidden behind the small wheel well liner that is bolted onto the front of the rear wheel well (on that same side). The water will drain from behind and under the wheel well liner. Then, pour a carefully measured pint of water and pour into the foam drain tray on the left side and collect and measure the volume of water that you have collected. If you have the same amount as you poured in, that is a good indication that the water is not going into the cabin, at least for that volume of water. You can then pour more water in and observe that the water is draining freely, and not pooling over the drain hole at the bottom of the foam liner. Repeat the same procedure on the right side. If the water is draining slowly, you can clear the drains with some compressed air. Do not use a wire hanger or anything with a sharp point as you risk puncturing the drain tube or separating the drain tube from its little funnel directly under the foam drain tray. Also be sure to verify that the other small drain (one on each side), which is located at the front outboard corner of the metal channel at the top of the rear quarter panel, also drains freely. You can see that small drain if you look in the outboard corner of the top of the rear quarter panel, directly under the very forward tip of where the clamshell would be if it were in the completely closed position. That drain (again, one on each side) also empties from a separate tube which exits behind the forward wheel well liner. Regards, Maurice.
  23. 1 point
    Maurice suggested I post my 'lessons learned' from the experiences I had with my recently acquired 98 hobby car, specifically an issue I'd had with the foam drain tray in the soft top compartment. If any of you have read articles here pertaining to checking and maintaining the integrity of the drain tray (making sure it has no rips or tears), believe what you read! The previous owner of my car was not much of a detail guy and when he unhooked the relevant cables and arms that allow the top to function he left them dangling. As a result the integrity of the foam drain tray was compromised resulting in water migrating into the cabin of the car. Fortunately several factors limited the resulting severity of the situation; 1. The water that ended up in the cabin was not very much. (That was just shear luck) 2. The foam under the carpet under the drivers seat soaked up what water did enter and as a result did not contaminate the black box. 3. What water was there was not there very long. (whew) Lessons learned 1. Feel under the carpet when checking for water. The carpet is plastic backed and you won't feel any water when checking just the carpet surface. 2. Check the foam tray with a flashlight in every nook and cranny. Inspect every suspicious surface anomaly. Make note of them and inspect very closely when found to ensure a complete penetration does not exist. 3. From your findings determine the condition of the drain tray overall. Is a whole new tray warranted or will some minor plugging/patching suffice? (In this case patching and silicone did the trick.) 4. Test for integrity of the tray after repair or replacement has been undertaken. 5. Make sure the drain holes are clear. 6. Drying the cabin out under the seats is a royal pain! 7. Make drain tray inspection a regular part of your regime. Fortunately for me it was caught very early with no real damage resulting. The beast is once again high and dry and the drain tray functioning as it should. Now I can get back to the top issues! Thanks Maurice for all your help.
  24. 1 point
    100K today! I purchased my 2001 Arctic Silver Boxster used 4 years ago with 56K on it from a small use car dealership. I had been eyeing the car for about three months before I decided to go drive it. Needless to say, I was blown away at how fun the car was. Since then, I have performed many labor of love tasks to keep it running. These tasks include a generator, belts, AOS, MAF, Brakes and rotors, Fuel filter, Glass rear window replacement top, and lubrication for both the tranny and crankcase. All this would not be possible without the help from an amazing forum Renntech! Hopefully I can get another 100K out of her.
  25. 1 point
    Just did it about 3 weeks ago. What an improvement over the old stock Miata-styled bumper! It was a fairly easy fit. I didn't cut the metal crossbar, I didn't even paint it. I just covered the 3-4" on each side that shows through the grill with black electric tape. And it looks great. Definitely don't bother cutting or replacing it. That's way overkill. You can't attach the bumper at the bottom because the 5 of the screw holes don't line up. But you have enough bolts at the top and the sides to hold it securely. You can use tie wraps to hold it at the bottom if you want. The wheel well linings need just a little trimming with an exacto knife to fit with the new bumper. And the big left and right grills need to remove the little mini-scoops on the inside of the grill to clear the metal bar. They come off pretty easily if you cut into their 2 mounting points and then pull them off. I did not change any of the radiator scoops and it is just fine. Same airflow if not more with the new bumper to the radiators.
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