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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/2018 in all areas

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    Principle 1: Understand the question before looking for the answer. Principle 2: Start at the top and work down. Were these valves/switchs already replaced earlier in the process? If not, ...
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    Forget about what models they say. All you need are the tools in my posts above for your engine.
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    Thanks for the advice all, pretty much cemented my thoughts. Bearing is still installed but will be coming out now. Screw on filter adapter was already for sure, and now LN ceramic dual row is too. Joel
  10. 1 point
    Hi, Leo. Welcome to the forum. I was in San Diego in late 60's and early 70's. I remember it all too well. So, your question is really a classic "no brainer." Jeff is absolutely right. Please do not reuse your old bearing. Mine is actually sitting proudly on a bench out in the garage, along with an internal oil pump, and 2 timing chain tensioners from my 911sc. These are all very pretty and interesting to look at. Seriously, strongly consider going with an LNE retrofit bearing or putting in the LNE Solution. I will be facing this question in about 10k miles. Not to replace, but to replace with which of the two. I'll probably go with the Solution. This is all somewhat problematic, because there is simply no known way to predict when or if an IMS will fail. This issue resulted in a successful class-action lawsuit against Porsche, and lots of money got paid to people who purchased a 996 only to have the engine blow-up. Literally. Others, like myself, never had a problem, but for peace of mind changed over to the LNE retrofit "just because." I still feel it was money well spent, and still enjoy winding it up every now and then. For your own peace of mind, and because you have the ability to do the work yourself, and because you already have the engine apart, you should put in the update. Lots of info on the forum about this issue. Good luck. Cheers,
  11. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech If you have already extracted the IMS bearing from the shaft, you cannot reuse it. The process of extraction damages most of the internal components of the bearings, which will lead to quick failure. If you have not extracted the bearing from the shaft, even though the unit feels relatively smooth means absolutely nothing. I would be willing to bet that there is already no grease inside the bearing, and the seals are hard as well. It would be false economy to not replace it.
  12. 1 point
    I ran into a somewhat similar situation where the car was not moving at all after changing transmission oil and filter due to filter rubber ring not placed correctly. The ring may break if you put it on the filter nose before installing it instead of placing it inside the hole where the filter nose goes in.
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    Your shifter is cable operated, if they become detached at either end, this is what you get. Try looking at the transmission end first.
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    Remove and clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner (since you will have the air filter box out anyway) Remove and clean the entire TB Remove the ICV (Idle Control Valve) from the TB and clean it out with alcohol and q-tips, cycle it with a 9V battery to ensure smooth operation of the valve, it should not stick and should cycle smoothly, it should be shiny clean inside, not black (the is the usual culprit for "hunting idle"), as stated be very careful with the paper gasket, it is very fragile Remove the TPS (throttle position sensor) and clean it up as necessary Suggest replacing the TB O-ring upon reassembly
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    Have you removed and cleaned your throttle body? This needs to be done probably yearly. Also, carefully remove the cold start valve (do not lose the paper gasket - or replace if damaged) and clean it so it moves freely.
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    The first thing that pops into my head when a trans "slips" (no movement) then "bangs" into gear is old/dirty fluid and/or low fluid. Changing fluid only removes a percentage of the old, which is why I asked about if the old fluid was checked for color to see if maybe it was burnt. When that's not the case, then maybe a valve body issue, or electrical, or maybe vacuum. I echo getting a Durametric, it's very useful. I'm curious if this problem can be diagnosed with some exercises and observations . . . While the car is standing with the brakes engaged - in Park, Neutral, and Drive, at what rpm does the engine idle? Does this issue manifest when rpm -while stopped - is above or below 1000rpm? While brake is engaged can you feel the car wanting to move if you press the throttle a little? Was the car ever able to creep at idle with the original trans? If you rev the engine a little while in Neutral, then immediately upon returning to idle shift into Drive, does problem remain? or does Drive engage? While driving, when coming to a stop can it be down-shifted Manually into 1st and then operate normally? While in Drive, stopped, shift into Manual and 1st gear, does it thump?
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    Remove the coolant resovoir and inspect the bottom. They crack and sometimes won't show up with pressure test. Replace it
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    Not Porsche design fault. Sorry to say but owner maintenance requirement. Also suggest you do this: http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-996-boxster-waterproof-immobilizer-case-enclosure.html
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    Unfortunately, you won't get sounder advice than that given by JFP. As the owner of a Boxster, I would suggest that your money would be better spent on investing in a trombone cleaner and making sure that all drains built into the car are unblocked. The drains themselves are perfectly adequate for their intended purpose provided they're maintained ... and you'd be surprised how much muck builds up if they're not periodically cleaned out. That said, I would have thought that the Porsche garage would have cleaned them out when you first put the car in.
  26. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech Unfortunately, water intrusion into the electronics module under the seats is a well documented problem with these cars, as it is with most modern cabriolets, normally occurring as the result of one or more of the multiple drains built into them becoming clogged by external debris. As this entails owner maintenance (they have always recommended owners periodically check and clean these drains, as noted in owners manuals and service bulletins), Porsche has consistently said it is not a warranty issue. Do a search and you will find innumerable threads about this problem, always ending up in the same place: Clogged drains. While I wish you well in your quest, I'm afraid you may be tilting at windmills on this one, as we have seen it in other brands of vehicles as well.
  27. 1 point
    The look like concealed signal pickups for a radar detector.
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    That is reading a DFI "control unit faulty". Try clearing the codes and see if they come back.
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    Cayenne 3.6 V6 Intake Manifold Removal DIY This DIY tutorial covers how to remove the intake manifold on the 3.6L V6 Cayenne. Removing the intake manifold gives you access to several parts of the engine that you may need to service. Disclaimer: Perform at your own risk. This is for reference only, I am not responsible for any damage/injuries that may occur from this procedure. Please do not attempt if you are not comfortable with doing work on your car or working around the fuel system. Work in a well ventilated area as you will be releasing a small amount of gas and fumes. Difficulty: 5/10 Estimated Time: ~2 hours If you’re getting a Durametric error code P0674, you likely have a bad PCV valve that needs to be replaced. An easy way to test a bad PCV valve is to unscrew the oil fill cap on the engine while it is idling. If you feel suction on the cap and/or the idle fluctuates once the cap is removed then your PCV valve is bad. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover so your options are to buy a whole new valve cover assembly (95510513500- ~$347) or buy just the PCV membrane (aftermarket $20-25) and replace it in your existing valve cover. To get access to the valve cover, you will need to follow this DIY article to remove the intake manifold first. Other reasons to remove the intake manifold are to service your fuel injectors or to make it much easier to replace the thermostat. The thermostat can be changed without removing the intake manifold (I did it twice), however you basically need to be a contortionist to reach the bolts to remove housing and you will scrape some knuckles along the way. Tools Needed: -Flathead screwdriver -Assortment of torx bits (T20, T25, T30, 6” long T30) -Pliers -Torque Wrench -3/8” ratchet set with various extensions and a universal joint -1 1/16” Deep socket -10mm Triple Square Spline Bit -Crescent Wrench -9/16” Open End Wrench -Dental pick Parts Needed: -Brake Booster Vacuum Hose- 95535557941 (your existing hose is probably brittle and will likely crack from removing it, I recommend getting a new one) -Lower Fuel Injector Seal Kit (3X) - 95511091000 (existing seals may be brittle and once you have removed the intake manifold, they may not seal properly upon reinstallation, I recommend getting new ones, need 3 sets) Procedure: First start by removing the plastic covers surrounding the engine. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the quarter turn plastic trim fasteners. Rotate them in either direction by 90 degrees and pop them out. Be ready to catch them as sometimes they like to jump out. Next you will need to remove the 2 torx screws on either side of the engine cover with a T25 bit and the screw under the windshield washer reservoir cap with a T20 bit. Remove the oil fill cap and front engine cover by pulling straight up. They are held on by friction rings around a stud so pulling straight up will release it. Now that you have the covers removed, it’s time to remove the intake filter box and intake piping. Using your T25 torx bit, rotate the 2 screws until the dot on the screwhead lines up with the lower indication on the filter cover. Now gently use your pliers to pull them straight out. With your flathead screwdriver, pop up the two clips to release the filter housing. Pivot the filter house towards the passenger side of the car and remove it. Remove the engine air filter as well. Next, remove the wiring harness from the MAF sensor located in the middle of the intake piping. Loosen the clamp around the intake piping on the throttle body and gently work the intake piping back and forth until it releases from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt on the engine lift bracket and loosen the lower bolt with your M10 triple square bit. Then pivot the bracket towards the front of the car. Remove the bolt next to the throttle body with your M10 triple square bit. Then unplug the wire harness from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt from the bracket on the passenger side of the engine with your M10 triple square bit. Remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. One hose requires pliers to open the hose clamp, the other can be removed by hand if you squeeze the lock ring around the hose to release it. Next, from the passenger side, reach your hand around to the back side of the engine. There is a vacuum line that goes from the bottom surface of the intake manifold to the brake booster. You will need to pull the vacuum line fitting straight down to pop it out of the intake manifold. I don't have a good picture of it so here is a diagram of it. Pull down on the elbow fitting, not the hose. Also on the back side of the engine just behind the vacuum line you removed there is a bolt that needs to be removed using your M10 triple square bit. You are working blindly so locate the bolt first by feel and guide your bit to the bolt. Remove the 3 screws holding the actuator with a T25 torx bit. Slowly pull it straight out towards the front of the car. There is an actuator arm that attaches to a shaft on the passenger side of the part. Once you have enough clearance to reach your finger in there, you need to slide the arm off the shaft as you pull the entire actuator off. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator. Now pull the coolant hoses out of their holder in the intake manifold and push it towards the driver side of the car. There is a T25 torx screw that attaches this water hose bracket near the back of the intake manifold. The screw is facing up, so you need to use your T25 torx bit and get creative with removing that screw. I used a crescent wrench to turn the torx bit while holding the torx bit in place with my other hand. With the water hose bracket free, slide the water hose bracket towards the front of the car to release it from the intake manifold. This bracket has a keyhole slot that will release once it's slid forward. Remove the oil dipstick tube bracket with a T25 torx bit. Just push it out of the way once you remove the screw. With your long T30 torx bit, remove the bolt on the intake manifold that was under the actuator. Next, there are 3 blind holes on the driver side of the intake manifold. You need to use your long T30 torx bit to loosen the screws inside those holes. Those 3 screws are captive screws so they will not come out. There are 3 bolts below the intake runners. They need to be removed with your M10 triple square bit. This is where your universal joint will come in handy. The bolt near the rear of the engine required me to use my u-joint with various entensions to acess. At this point, you will hear gas leaking out. Since you have released the pressure from the lower fuel rail to the lower fuel injectors, the pressurized gas in the rail will leak out. Make sure you are working in a well ventilated area. From the driver side of the car, reach behind the engine to remove the wire harness from the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 1 1/16” deep socket, unscrew and remove the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 9/16” open wrench, unscrew the nut that connects the metal fuel line running from the lower fuel rail. The slimmer your wrench the better. My crescent wrench did not fit here. Now that the intake manifold is completely unbolted, you can start to wiggle it free. You will need to lift the manifold up from the passenger side and pivot it up towards the driver side. You will need to wiggle the lower fuel rail loose to release the metal fuel line you just unscrewed the nut from. It is a flare fitting that pushes into the upper fuel rail assembly. Be gentle here as you don’t want to bend the fuel rail. Once the metal fuel line is free from the upper assembly, you can remove the intake manifold as described above by lifting up from the passenger side first to pivot it off. At this point, you have access to the fuel injectors if you need to service them, the thermostat housing and the valve cover. Unbolting the valve cover is straight forward from here if you need to replace the PCV valve, etc. The fuel injector seal kit comes with a rubber o-ring, Teflon o-ring, Teflon sleeve and metal clip. At the bare minimum you should replace the rubber o-ring and Teflon o-ring. Use a dental pick to remove the old o-rings. These 2 parts are the wear surface when you remove/reinstall the intake manifold and are prone to fail if you re-use them. Trust me, I learned the hard way. To install the intake manifold, reverse the steps above. Take care in sliding the lower fuel rail back onto the lower fuel injectors and lining up the metal fuel line back into the flare fitting. I found it was easier to pull the lower fuel line out of the manifold to line the flare fitting up first, then pushing it into place in the intake manifold. You want to apply even pressure on the surface as you tighten all 7 of the bolts down on the driver side. Torque the 3 triple square bolts evenly to 6 ft lbs, torque angle 90 degrees, then a final torque of 22 ft lbs. The bolts holding the engine lift bracket are 17 ft lbs, the other triple square bolts holding the manifold on the head are 15 ft lbs. Once you get it all back together, turn the key to the ON then START position without your foot on the brake. This will run the fuel pumps to build pressure back up in the fuel rail. I removed the key and repeated 2-3 times to get the fuel pressure up. The first time you restart, it may take a couple seconds to fire up due to the fuel pressure needing to build back up. If you replaced your PCV valve, it may idle rough as the ECU needs to remap since it adapted to a leaking PCV valve over time. If you did not replace the fuel injector seals and smell gas/hear it leaking after shutting off the engine, then your seals failed and you need to repeat the procedure and replace those seals. Author shonuff Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 03/09/2018 11:31 AM Updated 03/09/2018 01:00 PM  
  31. 1 point
    I bought a bluetooth radio transmitter called the Anker Roav SmartCharge. Cost me about $76 CAD. Works like a charm with very clear sound, as long as you install the app and select Enhance sound in the settings. This is the cheapest way I could find to modernize the car a bit.
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    I would have to agree with Jager, I would start by hooking up a digital manometer to the oil fill cap and reading the crankcase vacuum, which should be no more than 5 inches of water.
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    Air Oil Separator (AOS) would be my first guess.
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    ... just lost mine on the highway yesterday running over a piece of plastic in the road I think i am going to put a screw in the underside of these ; car looks so ugly with it missing!
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    In my never-ending quest to shed unwanted vehicle weight, improve appearance and add a few audible horsepower - I finally deleted the soot and rusty, patina-ridden suitcase muffler, for these T304 Sebring cans. The deep bass sound and precision mechanical growl is simply amazing: ....and, the sound bite:
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    Hi fellow Porsche-ites. I thought I'd revive an old post since I didn't see a fix for this problem. I'm getting a p0650 along withn p0300, 301, 302 and 303. I took it to a local dealer who charged me $175 to tell me that all cylinders are misfiring. I already knew that. They want an extra 2 hours and $325 for further diagnosis. What!?!? I thought I'd ask the forum for a fix. I have recently done the following: - a major tune up (replaced spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, oil and tranny fluid change, etc) - replaced AOS - replaced MAF - checked for vaccum leaks and didn't find any. HOWEVER, I didn't see smoke coming out of the oil dipstick. (a little concerning?). Anyone have any ideas for a fix? I have a 2000 Boxster.
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    Which radios fitted to Porsche can have their unlock code recovered through serial number? - CR-220/CDR-220 - Becker - CR-210/CDR-210 - Becker - Traffic Pro NAV/CD - Becker Which radios can not have their unlock code recovered through serial number? - CR1 - Alpine - CDR-23/24 (or later) - Becker - PCM (Porsche Communication Management) – Siemens & Becker How to get your radio serial number? CR-220/CDR-220: Hold down the TP button for at least 10 seconds after you turn the radio on. "Becker 1" will be displayed. Rotate the right knob (slowly) and it will display the Becker model number. Then rotate it again and the serial number should be displayed on the radio. Or, if the radio is out of the car the then the serial number is on the label. CR-210/CDR-210: Press tone, then 8 and 0 simultaneously. "Becker" appears. Press station up arrow on right. "PR-VERS" appears. Press one of the numbered buttons below the display, directly below the LCD arrowheads (try a few). The model number will appear. Press station up arrow on right. "SERIAL N" will appear. Press the numbered button again. The serial number will appear. Or, if the radio is out of the car the then the serial number is on the label. CDR-23 (or later): These radios do not have a security code - that is, not that the user enters. These radios are security tested on the MOST (fiber optic bus) system to see if they are the "programmed" radio. The radios are programmed and recognized by the car’s DME and can only be replaced by a shop with a PST2 or PIWIS. These radios will not request a code when battery power is disconnected. Traffic Pro: Select the Service Menu, press NAV and multifunction key 10 simultaneously in radio mode. Use multifunction keys Nxt and Prv or turn the right control knob to select the individual items. You can move through the following items: - Model-No. - Serial-No. <-- this is what we need - Changer Reset - GAL - Radio Software - Radio Bolo - Navi Rom - Navi Flash - RTC Value To quit the service menu, press END. I get a WAIT on the display - what do I do? You have to wait at least 30 minutes before trying again. The suggested number did not work - what do I do now? Most often when the code we give you does not work it is because the serial number came from an old card in the car rather than from the procedure stated above - or a typo in the serial number submitted. Double check the serial number you submitted using the procedure above again. If that does not work then you will need to contact a dealer or Becker. Becker charges to look up your code and some dealers also charge. Our program works maybe 99.9% of the time but we have no explanation why it doesn't always work. Can you give me a code for my PCM? These units are manufactured jointly by Siemens and Becker, and the only place where you can get the codes required is from the dealer/OPC. The PCM’s require two codes, the ICS/Siemens code, and a Becker code. The ICS is the first code requested. Sorry, the only place you can get a PCM code is from a dealer/OPC. Can I post my VIN to get a code? We do NOT need your VIN - only your radio serial number. Where can I post my lost code request? Please post your request here: Lost Radio Code - post your request here Please DO NOT PM me or email me (or anyone else helping with the codes) your radio code request - we will only answer requests in that one thread.
  38. 1 point
    I've been a Porsche guy for 30 plus years.I know the game and rules of engagement. But the "Steering Faulty" code that has left my wife (and her Cayenne Turbo) stranded and apparently immovable may be the straw that breaks my Porsche back! How it can run seemlingly perfect one moment then leave you dead and with no apparent workaround the next............. Sorry to say that any responsible or rational that this vehicles lack of trustworthy is out the window right now So incredibly disapointing and discouraging?
  39. 1 point
    Did not buy my 03 Boxster S for gas mileage.....:-P
  40. 1 point
    Hello Everyone. Please find my first tutorial submission. Replacing the Valve Body (aka valve chest) in a 2003 Cayenne Turbo Symptoms: Very harsh shift from 1-2-3 when under load (like getting rear ended by a truck) Hesitant shifts and flaring when driving normally. "Clunky" shifts. Vehicle has travelled around 210,000km. Fluid has never been changed (dealer said is was not necessary-which is not true!) After doing lots of reading it seemed like the valve body (VB) was the likely culprit. You can either replace with a new VB or have your old one re-built. If you replace the VB with a new one, you also need a new transmission control unit, and the problems will most likely re-appear. I went the re-build route and chose RevMax converters based on other people's experience. Note that RexMax don't ship outside the USA, so as I live in Australia, I used my wife's USA2ME mailbox, and they sent it on to me. I also had to send my old core in as they didn't have one in stock, but I'm glad I did, as there are several versions of VB depending on the year of your car. They rebuilt it within 48 hours. As you will need to drain and re-fill the trans, I won't be covering that in too much detail as it is covered extensively elsewhere (see my reference links below). Parts list 1) Auto trans filter 955-307-403-01 2) Auto trans filter sealing O-ring 955-325-443-00 3) Filler Hole seal O-ring 955-321-379-00 4) Crush ring for transmission drain hole - sorry didn't have PN for this as I forgot to order it! I re-used my old one. 5) 3 x Long VB retaining bolts WHT 000 321 6) 11 x short VB retaining bolts WHT 000 324 7) Transmission pan gasket 955-397-016-00 8) Case (12 quarts) of Mobil ATF 3309 or Toyota type IV Transmission fluid (It is the same stuff do don't panic if you can't get Mobil or Porsche branded fluid) Tools List 1) 1 x micro torque wrench (range 2-20 ft-lbs) 2) 1 x normal torque wrench (for torquing the fill plug to 70 ft-lbs) 3) T40 Torx bit to remove drain plug 4) 17mm Hex bit for fill plug 5) 10mm socket (apart from the drain plugs everything is a 10mm socket) 6) general other sockets and screwdrivers. 7) Durametric software to read transmission temp and re-set adaptation (you can get buy with a temp probe on a multimeter, but it was much easier to use the software, and IMHO if you are attempting a job like this you really should get it. It'll pay for itself on this job alone). 8) A willing assistant to help with the re-fill procedure. Reference - read this stuff first and print out the relevant pages 1) Official method for removing the valve body http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/AUTO%20TRANS%20GEARS%20CONTROL.pdf 2) A really nice tutorial on draining and re-filling the transmission in addition to the ones on Renntech by ECS tuning http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/CayenneTransmission.pdf 3) there's a brief write up at club touareg that I used as a starter http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/transmission-valve-body-diy-on-2004-touareg-v8-09d-trans-64189.html Part 1 Removing the Pan and Valve Body 1) Remove the underbody protection panel. 2) There is a 2 peice bracket that holds the protection panel up, unbolt it in the centre and side and remove it. 3) My car had a strong bash plate over the rear of the transmission pan, it will need to be removed in order to access the rear pan bolts. 4) Drain the fluid from the pan (First make sure you can budge the large fill hole-It's really tight I had to use a big metal bar to crack it, once it's "cracked" you can then remove the T40 torx drain plug). Best to drain the fluid cold after it's been sitting overnight. You'll drain an easy 5-6 quarts here. 5) Remove the ATF Pan bolts (all 10mm) and save them - they can be reused. 6) Gently knock the pan to break the seal and remove it. 7) Remove the 3 10mm retaining bolts from the ATF filter and remove the filter. Make sure the seal ring comes out too. More fluid will come out. Discard filter and o-ring. You should not be able to see the valve body as below. Take a picture and make notes as to which wire goes where. It's actually not that complicated as the wires will only really go in one spot when you re-assemble. You also need to note how the selector shaft engages with the VB as below. Again this looks tricky, but it was dead easy to put back together. Here's a close up of the shift solenoid wiring harness showing the green connectors in the black housings. Here's a pic of the other side. You can see another solenoid, plus the two pressure switches (gold colour) and up the back the large white output shaft speed inductive pickup connecter. Note how the white connecter clips onto the bracket and also how the wiring is tucked under the bracket. 8) Now work your way slowly around the 5 solenoids on the shift selector side removing the green connectors. I used a small screwdriver to depress the little clip and lever them out. You should not need to use hardly any force on these. You don't want to damage them at all. 9) Remove the 2 black cable plugs at the rear of the VB and the single solenoid green connector at the front of the VB. 10) Next pull off the plug for the input shaft inductive pickup. This is located at the front of the trans, right up in the "guts" of it. It looks really tricky, but using a long screw driver it came right out. Putting it back in was also really easy, so work slowly and don't panic. 11) Next pull off the two cables from the gold pressure switches. They just pop right off. 12) Remove the bolt holding the ATF temp sensor (2 orange wires) and pull the sensor out. It's held in by an o-ring. Save the bolt and retaining bracket. Don't remove the sensor from the wiring harness, just let it dangle with the rest of the wiring harness. 13) Remove the large white connector at the rear of the VB (output shaft inductive pickup) from the bracket and unclip the white connector. 14) Remove the steel bracket and save it and it's bolts. 15) Remove the 2 gold pressure sensors (if you get the VB rebuilt you'll get new ones, but hang onto them just in case). Now all the wires should be free. Tie or secure them gently so they're out of the way. The VB is very heavy and will also dump a heap of fluid when you remove it, so you don't want to snag the wires at all. 16) Now remove the valve body by removing the 14 bolts around the outside. They are all 10mm. I removed all but 2, one at the front and one at the rear, then slowly loosened them allowing the VB to tilt forward. This allows some of the excess fluid to run out. There is still easily 2-3 quarts of fluid in there so it's messy. Again take care the VB is very heavy, expecially if you are working on your own. Here's the transmission with the valve body removed. Note the black wire in the centre of the transmission is the output shaft inductive pickup that is attached to the big white connector. Clean up the VB and send it off to be rebuilt. Part 2 Installing the VB 1) get all your parts together. Note the valve body retaining bolts CANNOT be re-used, so make sure you got new ones. 2) Gently place the VB in it's position. Make sure the selector shaft mates correctly with the VB. Mine almost just fell into place itself. Also make sure that none of the wires are snagged especially the output shaft wire (big white connector).If you've secured them out of the way this won't be a problem. I put in 2 bolts to start with to get the position right and take the weight. Only do them barely hand tight. This is really important as the torquing process will be ruined of you do them up too tight to start with. 3) Put in the rest of the bolts and tighten them up by hand so the VB is in place and mated correctly to the transmission. If you get the bolts in the right place, you'll be fine. Don't do them up too tight! 4) Now the bolts need to be torqued in 2 stages. Initially using your micro torque wrench to 6 ft-lbs (8 nm) and then finally through an angle of 90 degrees (quarter of a turn). I had an angle gauge, but I couldn't find a good spot to use it against the transmission body. So in the end I just torqued them by "eye". 90 degrees is easy to judge. So to re-cap. Torque all bolts initially to 6ft-lbs and then once you've torqued all 14 bolts, the go around and torque them AGAIN through 90 degrees. If you have one of those fancy digital torque wrenches, it may also do angular torque for you. Here's the new VB installed in the transmission. Note the wires are hanging neatly to the side. 5) Reinstall the two gold pressure switches (torque to 3.25 ft-lbs/4.5 nm) and also re-install the bracket you removed that holds the white output shaft inductive pickup wire connector. Make sure the wire is routed correctly under the bracket and attach the white connector to the bracket as below. 6) Connect the other white connector from the output shaft pickup 7) Replace the ATF temperature sensor using the bracket and the bolt. Note the wire points to the rear of the VB. Torque the bolt to 7.5 ft-lbs/10nm. 8) Plug in the 2 cables for the gold pressure switches. 9) Plug in the cable for the input shaft inductive pickup. This is the one that's right up at the front of the transmission. For me it went straight in no problems at all with a nice positive "click". It looks a bit daunting, but was surprisingly easy to re-connect. 10) Plug in the remaining green six green connectors, and the two black connectors at the back of the VB. Compare the wiring layout to the picture you took before you unpluged them all!. If you didn't take a picture, don't panic, the wires only really go one way, just make sure they're nice and neat. As a guide the orange temperature sensor wires go under the green/brown solenoid wire. 11) Next reinstall the ATF filter using the new O-ring. Torque the 3 bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs or 10 nm. It should all look like this... 12) Next put the new Pan gasket in place on the pan and using the old pan bolts install the pan and torque the bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs or 10nm. I put a little drop of Permatex blue threadlocker on them for good measure. Here's a picture of the nice clean pan and new gasket next to the old gasket. Make sure the pan and magnets are all clean. Just wipe it out. I didn't want to use degreaser in case it contaminated the trans fluid. My magnets weren't too dirty. I've seen pictures of this trans in an Audi and the magnets looked like little Chia pets!! Install the small drain plug and new crush ring (doh!) and torque to 21 ft-lbs/28nm. 13) Now cold fill the pan until fluid comes out the fill hole. It took about 4 quarts. I used a $8 garden sprayer, and put about 2 feet of clear hose on the end with a hose clamp. This allowed me to have the pump bottle at the ground, and put the plastic tube into the transmission so it hooked over the fill tube. It worked brilliantly! Here's a picture of the bottle I used. Here's the top of the setup. You can see the plastic tube going into the transmission. I also had my multimeter temp probe in there, but it turned out I didn't poke it in far enough so it couldn't pick up the temperature. I used the Durametric software instead. 14) Now for the "hot" fill procedue. Make sure your fill bottle is full. I ended up using a total of 10.5 quarts to refill the transmission (this is more than a normal fluid change as the VB has been removed), so I had to refill the fill bottle half way though the procedure. You have to move quickly as once the temperature starts to move on the transmission it only takes about 5 minutes to get to 40oC. I set my laptop up in easy reach (make sure it's fully charged or better still connected to AC) and also had all my bottles of ATF at my feet. 15) Have your assistant start the car and you start filling the transmission. I added another 4 quarts in a few minutes. Ask your assistant to move from P to R to D and back again with about a 3-4 second pause between each shift. Do this once. 16) Keep filling the transmission, and watching the temp on the software. Once the fill bottle was empty quickly re-fill it, re-pressurise and keep filling. Get your assistant to do the shift sequence again. I found that at about 32-35oC the trans was getting full. Fluid will start to leak back out the hole, so make sure you've got a drain pan under the hole! 17) Keep filling and execute another shift sequence. At about 38oC I got another shift sequence done, and then put a but more fluid it. 18) At 39oC fluid started coming out the hole a bit faster, and at 40oC I quickly pulled out the tube and put in the fill hole socket. Torque it to 70 ft-lbs. 19) Stop the car, using the durametric software execute the Reset Adaptation command for the transmission. After that go for a test drive! As the transmission control unit is in learn mode, you should try to do all sorts of driving styles. This has solved all the shifting problems I had, it really drives like a new car. Even my wife commented on how smooth it is now. Check for leaks and replace the underbody panels etc. Enjoy your new car!
  41. 1 point
    Top View 1- Ignition bar module, cylinder 1, bank 1 2 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 2, bank 1 3 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 3, bank 1 4 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 4, bank 1 5 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 5, bank 2 6 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 6, bank 2 7 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 7, bank 2 8 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 8, bank 2 9 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1, bank 1 (hidden) 10 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2, bank 1 (hidden) 11 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3, bank 1 (hidden) 12 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4, bank 1 (hidden) 13 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5, bank 2 (hidden) 14 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6, bank 2 (hidden) 15 - Fuel injector, cylinder 7, bank 2 (hidden) 16 - Fuel injector, cylinder 8, bank 2 (hidden) 17 - Inlet camshaft hall sensor, bank 1 18 - Inlet camshaft hall sensor, bank 2 19 - Knock sensor, bank 1 (hidden) 20 - Knock sensor, bank 2 (hidden) 21 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 1 22 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 2 23 - Ambient air solenoid valve 24 - Positive crankcase ventilation 25 - Three-way pressure valve 26 - Tank vent valve 27 - Throttle adjusting unit 28 - Positive crankcase ventilation heater 29 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve Front View 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right (hidden) 2 - Mass air flow sensor, left 3 - Charge air cooler, right 4 - Charge air cooler, left 5 - Boost-pressure sensor 6 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve (hidden) 7 - Boost pressure control valve (waste gate) - mechanical, right 8 - Boost pressure control valve (waste gate) - mechanical, left (hidden) 9 - Vacuum accumulator (in intake distributor) 10 - Overrun recirculating air solenoid valve (hidden) 11 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, left 12 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, right Rear View 1 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, left 2 - Ambient air solenoid valve 3 - Vacuum accumulator - integrated into intake distributor 4 - Coolant temperature sensor 5 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, right Underside View 1- Oil level and temperature sensor Oxygen Sensing 1- DME control module 2 - Secondary air injection pump, bank 1 3 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, bank 1 4 - Oxygen sensor in front of catalytic converter, bank 1 5 - Pre-catalytic converter, bank 1 6 - Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, bank 1 7 - Main catalytic converter, bank 1 8 - Secondary air injection pump, bank 2 9 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, bank 2 10 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 11 - Main catalytic converter, bank 2 12 - Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, bank 2 13 - Pre-catalytic converter, bank 2 14 - Oxygen sensor ahead of catalytic converter, bank 2 Charge Measurement and Fuel Supply 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right 2 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1, bank 1 3 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2, bank 1 4 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3, bank 1 5 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4, bank 1 6 - DME control module 7 - Electric fuel pump, right 8 - EVAP canister 9 - Fuel tank 10 - Electric fuel pump, left 11 - Driver's door lock with switch for fuel pump supply 12 - Current distributor with cutoff relay under driver's seat 13 - KESSY control module 14 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 15 - Pedal sensor 16 - Fuel injector, cylinder 8, bank 2 17 - Fuel injector, cylinder 7, bank 2 18 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6, bank 2 19 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5, bank 2 20 - Tank vent valve 21 - Mass air flow sensor, left 22 - Positive crankcase ventilation heater 23 - Throttle adjusting unit Charge Measurement and Fuel Supply - additional items for Turbo 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right 2 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, right 3 - Turbocharger with boost pressure control valve (waste gate), right 4 - Boost-pressure sensor 5 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve 6 - Vacuum pump for brake booster 7 - Intake distributor with integrated vacuum reservoir (used to control overrun recirculating air valves, for example) 8 - DME control module 9 - Brake booster 10 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 11 - Pressure sensor for brake booster 12 - Ambient air solenoid valve 13 - Turbocharger with boost pressure control valve (waste gate), left 14 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, left Camshaft and Ignition Sensors 1 - Inlet camshaft vane-type adjuster, bank 1 2 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 1 3 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 1, bank 1 4 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 2, bank 1 5 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 3, bank 1 6 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 4, bank 1 7 - DME control module 8 - Hall sensor, bank 1 9 - Hall sensor, bank 2 10 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 8, bank 2 11 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 7, bank 2 12 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 6, bank 2 13 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 5, bank 2 14 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 2 15 - Inlet camshaft vane-type adjuster, bank 2 16 - Knock sensor, bank 2 17 - Knock sensor, bank 1 Temperature Control with Sensors 1 - Radiator fan, large (right) 2 - Ambient air temperature sensor 3 - Thermostat with housing 4 - Coolant temperature sensor 5 - DME control module 6 - Instrument cluster 7 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 8 - Additional coolant circulation pump (also controlled by the DME in turbo engines only) 9 - Radiator fan, small (left)
  42. 1 point
    I have done the Softronic flash, Tech Art exhaust, GT2 spark plugs, BMC filter and a larger Cayenne Turbo throttle body. The flash alone will transform your car. It makes a HUGE difference. The other mods add more perfomance. I drive the crap out of my car almost everyday. I'm not concerned about damaging anything. I have a good relationship with my dealer so the flash is not an issue. Many dealers do not have a problem with the Softronic product. Just make sure you go through Softronic and not Vivid Racing for the flash.. Trust me on this.. Or if you have a good relationship with your dealer and the car is still under warranty see if they will install it for you.. As far as HP gains I doubt that the flash will give you that much of a gain (135 hp.) But it does transform the car into a beast. If you want even more power after these mods you have to upgrade the turbos and intercoolers. This additional HP usually means and upgraded clutch as well. It gets very expensive if that is an issue. And of course it puts more strain on the engine, But the car will be an absolute rocket if it is set up properly. Question is ... Do you need 650 hp? Or just want it..:rolleyes: A friend of mine that races P Cars told me to upgrade my sway bars to improve handling. This is relatively inexpensive mod and is supposed to make a huge difference in the Turbo's tendency to understeer. It makes the car much flatter in corners and they are adjustable. This will be the next mod for my car. Here is a link.. http://www.championm...oduct-p/321.htm You can go to coilovers but you will lose the PASM feature. Bilstein makes a coilover that works with PASM but some say they are not worth the hefty price tag.. I love all my mods. I recommend them to any Turbo owner,,, PM me if you have any questions... :cheers:
  43. 1 point
    :welcome: P0171 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit P0174 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit Possible fault cause - Incorrect signal from MAF sensor - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Fuel injectors fouled - PCV valve leaks - Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged
  44. 1 point
    This is how I installed my new Kenwood DNX-6140. Doing this kind of work on your own car is up to you so do not blame me if you hurt yourself or damage your car. I had the car three weeks and put this in and a week after this my alternator went. I didn't take pictures of that but I should have. This is my first prosche and I'm not a motor head, that is until now.
  45. 1 point
    Do yourself a favor and pick up one of these little helpers. works awesome for getting the bolts out of the coils. also great for interior screws in tight places.
  46. 1 point
    Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open the hood and peel back the carpet cover just inside of the latch. Next, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the four plastic 'screws' holding the trim plate between the bumper and the hood flange. They merely turn 90 degrees (so that they are perpendicular to the car's direction of travel) and pop out. Then remove the trim piece and place to the side. Next, using a ten millimeter socket, remove the two bolts securing the latch to the car. They are located just inside the trunk under the carpet you just peeled back. Once they are removed, the latch is now only held in place by two metal cables and the alarm pin switch wires. Carefully unplug the alarm wires. Push in on a small 'latch' on the lower half of the plug and pull out the lower half. Then carefully rotate the upper half about 45 degrees (it should be fairly easy to move, don't force it) and the plug will pop out of the metal holder. Then use a small screwdriver to gently push a release clip on the plastic mounting point. This will allow the small plastic mount to separate from the wiring plug. Now you need to gently remove the cables from their sockets. Take the tension off of the upper cable and gently pull the cable up out of its socket. Then remove the lower cable in the same way. The only thing holding the latch in the car now is the alarm wiring harness. Push the rubber grommet through the body toward the bumper. You can then pull the wiring through and the entire latch will come out of the car. Be sure to set the stainless steel shroud to the side. It was not attached on my car but may be on yours. Now that you have the latch out of the car, you can see the large diameter steel spring that is wound around the large post to the passenger side of the latch. That is the culprit. The small plastic shroud over it pulled straight out and off of my latch. This is the microswitch that tells the alarm that the trunk is open or closed. Set it to the side. You should now see the latch mechanism and the hole that the spring needs to be in to function properly. I used two screwdrivers to push the other end of the spring (the end on the release / catch mechanism ) over the catch. This allowed me to push the end into the latch more easily. I then popped the spring back over the catch. Now there should be tension on both the latch and the catch. Lubricate with white lithium grease, or some other semi-solid lubricant and work the mechanism to ensure that it is functioning properly. Once you have confirmed proper function, reassemble in reverse order (i.e. put the alarm switch back on - it should snap right back in place ), pop the cable back on, thread the wiring through and secure the grommet in place, place the stainless shroud on, insert the bolts and loosely tighten things. Once the bolts are in, line up the hood and the latch mechanism and tighten down the latch. Replace the plastic bumper/body trim piece but don't insert the 'screws' until you've tested the hood a couple times. Once it is clear that the hood is functioning properly, secure the trim, replace the carpet and smile at a job well done, for free. If I can figure out how to transfer my pictures out of my camera phone I'll add some illustration to this. Hope this helps. I was frustrated as *)*^*( until y'all help me realize what the problem was. Pictures ...

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