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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/19/2024 in all areas

  1. Try 1309 Don't forget to hook up the wire (to the radio chassis) for the alarm system.
    1 point
  2. Does the air suspension operate normally now - to raise and lower on demand? If not then use a Porsche specific diagnostic tool (i.e. PIWIS or Durametric) to check for fault codes.
    1 point
  3. I think this discussion is about the windshield washer tank.
    1 point
  4. It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting. DOOR MICROSWITCHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position. e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position. f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position. g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep or double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member): You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number are unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one. OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures: Front lid microswitch Rear lid microswitch Oddment compartment microswitch Glove box microswitch Radio contact (to detect radio theft) An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep. Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left-hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the battery).
    1 point
  5. I just completed doing this, and thought I would take pics to make it easier for others. Here it is, removal of the steering wheel. Thanks and good luck. Edit: at least this one had pictures still. most of my tutorials had photos disappear from them.
    1 point
  6. When looking to upgrade my 2001 C4, I quickly discovered that getting aftermarket speakers to fit the stock dash and rear seat grills was non trivial due to the non standard mounting points. I didn't want a solution that involved butchering the old speakers and copious amounts of glue. I addition, I didn't want to invest the time required to fabricate my own mounting adaptors. No need to reinvent the wheel here: I found a vendor in the UK that makes an adaptor kit for certain aftermarket speakers, JM Garage. They also list these adaptors on ebay from time to time. The adaptor kit works for the dash and rear seat covers. The kits are a bit (i.e., very) pricey (about $90 per pair of speakers); but for me it was well worth the savings in time and effort. I decided to go with the kits for US Alpine speakers (SPS-410 - less than $50/pair on Amazon). Installation with the adaptor kits was a breeze. The Alpine speakers are a tremendous bargain. For mids and highs, they sound fantastic in the 996. A huge upgrade over the stock speakers. As 4 inch speakers, however, they do not reproduce lower frequencies. Moreover, the hifi amp sends the lower frequencies to the 5.25 inch door speakers anyway. Replacing the door speakers was, therefore, next. The good news: almost any standard 5.25 inch speaker will fit. The bad news, you have to take the door panels off to get to the speakers. There are good online tutorials here and elsewhere to get the door panels off. It turns out to be a relatively easy task. Speaker selection for the doors is a matter of price and functionality. If you use the stock amp, you want a component speaker since the stock amp sends only lower frequencies to the door speakers. A lot of folks seem to like focal speakers. Given the high price, I'm sure they are great; but most installations that I saw online a used a lot of glue. I prefer to avoid glue. After looking around for something with stock amp compatible power and the best low end frequency response, I decided to try the 5.25 inch speakers that come in the Pioneer TS-D1320C component set. The set runs about $90 and includes component tweeters and bulky crossovers, which I did not plan to use (unfortunately, I couldn't find the 5.25 inch speakers for sale by themselves). Selling points for me: "deep basket for better bass reproduction" and frequency response down to 35 Hz. Of course, the proof is in the pudding, and these speakers sound great. Very nice base response for a 5.25 inch speaker. They are not 10 inch subwoofers by any means, but you can definitely feel the base in the car, and it rounds out nicely the excellent sound produced by the Alpine speakers.
    1 point
  7. Here is the deal. The fans did kick in when the engine temperature reached around 200F(93C). So the coolant temperature sensor is not the problem. (The fans were switched off as soon as the temperature dropped below 200F) But I did notice that the coolant temperature kept going up when the car was idling which doesn't sound normal considering the ambient temperature was only 70F.
    1 point
  8. WOW, didn't know Durametric software has gotten so much better. It can even read transmission temperature now so I should be able to do a tranny service myself. Okay, in engine actual values section (idle), Engine Temperature -------------- 84C Engine Oil Temperature ------------ 81C Engine Temperature (sensor) ----- 0V Engine Oil Tmeperature (sensor)-- 0V I am confused. If sensors are not working, how come the computer can get correct data regarding temperature? (Everyone should get himself a copy of Durametric!!! :thumbup: )
    1 point
  9. I have slightly different symptoms here in 40-50 deg Dubai. My gauge will maintain a left of centre 80 deg when stopped or in traffic. When maintaining any reasonable speed it will also maintain that position, any application of the throttle which involves a little turbo boost will result in a rise in temp about 5-10 deg which will drop down again when a constant speed is resumed. Strange behaviour for me!
    1 point
  10. Have you verified temperatures at the sensors with Durametric or a PIWIS tester? If not, I would not change anything until you can see which reading does not agree.
    1 point
  11. The credit for this goes to Kendo on 986forum, but I thought it might be worth posting in the DIY section here. I tried it and it worked for me. Kendo: For those that have just had the tactile switch fail and want to replace it it can be found at Mouser Electronics for $0.60 each. Tactile switch The item you want is figure "C" 101-TF25R-EV (at least this is true for the three button key FOB head on my 2004 key). I used the 400 gf switch for my failed unlock button, but comparing the operating force to the stock switches I think 300 gf would be closer to correct. BTW the description says it is a thru-hole part. This is incorrect it is surface mount as shown in the picture. De-Soldering and soldering this piece is easy. Just use a soldering pencil (get one at radio shack cheap) rather than a soldering gun.
    1 point
  12. This is a project I intended to do a few years back with my old Boxster, when the armrests started peeling, but I never got around to it. Lately, a couple of posts on PPBB got me thinking, and this time, doing. A few hours later and I am absolutely thrilled with this hack! I've taken those hard plastic covers which are pathetic as armrests, and turned them into something actually comfortable, 100% OEM-looking and matching the interior, and add a touch of class. I highly encourage you to try this hack! Time required: 2 hours Cost: About $20 Materials: Piece of leather to match your interior (I got one off eBay for $10 shipped) 2mm (about 1/8”) thick closed-cell foam sheet (They have at Michaels’ craft stores) Spray Adhesive (Mine is 3M “Super 77”, also from Michaels—we’ll see if it can handle the summer heat) Masking tape Tools: Brand new razor blades Scissors 120 Sandpaper Needle-nosed pliers Narrow brad or something to push a pin through a hole Step 1: Remove armrests Swing an armrest open and note the two hinges. Remove the pins, starting the front one, by using a brad or other object to press through. If it gets stuck halfway, simply use pliers to pull the pin through. Be careful after you pull the second pin—there is a spring still holding on to the armrest. To remove it, simply keep the armrest in the “up” position and locate the spring. You’ll see how to slide the armrest out. You should have a set of 6 hardware pieces for each armrest: 2 pins, and 4 bushings. Don’t lose them! Step 2: Prep armrests with foam Clean the armrests thoroughly to promote good adhesion. Take the foam and cut a reasonably loose shape around an armrest. Spray the armrest moderately with adhesive. I found that a little bit of adhesive to the foam helped as well. Not too much as you really don’t want the complete “contact cement” experience! The adhesive I used gave me an instant but slightly reworkable bond. Aim for having no actual tension in the foam by starting in the most concave section and working outward. Don’t worry about the wrapping the foam around the edges; that is not desired. Trim the edges with a bevel using a razor blade. Remember, we are only adding foam to the top part and we don’t want it to roll over the edges at all. Here is a tip I got out of “Custom Auto Interiors” by Don Taylor and Ron Magus—sand the foam! Sand it using 120 grit sandpaper, and don’t be shy! Sand nice transitions around the edges, and sand the “skin” off all the foam to promote better adhesion. (Ignore those little slits you see in the picture; they were not necessary) Clean the armrest thoroughly. Step 3. Cover armrests with leather Basically, repeat what you did with the foam. But leave a GENEROUS amount of leather around the edges. Spray the adhesive and apply the leather with some gentle stretching. Don’t worry about the wrapping yet, worry more about not having air trapped between the leather and the foam (bad when it gets hot). With the basic adhesion done, trim the leather a little closer and make a series of cuts to create tabs which will allow the curves to come together on the back side. Some of the cuts should actually be v-shaped to prevent too much layering. Also, make precise cuts near the pads and hinge areas so these can be cleared. Do a second round of adhesive spraying on the back. But start with loosely masking the back side to avoid having too much goop on your finished product. Press all the leather “tabs” firmly in place, and trim as needed with a razor blade. Step 4. Reinstall armrests First re-insert the bushings. Make sure they are inserted completely. Begin the reinstall by inserting the spring at the rear. The best (perhaps the only) way to do this is by holding the armrest as if it was in the “up” position and guiding the spring into the small hole at the edge. I used pliers to help with this. It will take a few tries! Next, reinsert the pins. Start with the easier front one; that way the one at back, where you will be fighting the spring tension, will be more stable. Make sure you have the pins in all the way. That’s it! On mine, the armrest doesn’t quite swing ALL the way up, or at least not with a clean motion, but that doesn’t’ bother me. It is probably due to some clearance issues with the leather.
    1 point
  13. Ok guys, you've been waiting for this, and as promised, here is my brief, but descriptive walkthrough. this is what you will need as the following: Porsche Panel wedge tool Screw Driver w/ T-20 bit and Flat head bit Turbo Instrument Cluster strong fingers! Ok with that cleared away, here is the first step. Remove the black plastic gauge cover above the gauges. Use the wedge tool or , in this case I used my fingers! (don't use the fingers, i highly recomend not to , it hurts hahahah). Remember , you will need to apply gentle but enough pressure to detach the tabs off from the top cover of the dash that is over the cluster As you can see, the reason why i say "gentle" is because you have the tabs, take them off or apply too much pressure, and those bad boys can break, if anyone had experience with plastic and heat, they can easily become brittle. Just make sure you use precaution. Next, there are 5 screws to detach the dash cluster cover. 4 screws are attached to the top of the gauge cluster, while one (in back) inside the housing is there to hold the cover in place on the main dash. Remember, these are t-20 screws. two are parallel on each side , symmetrical to each other The rear screw, is located in the center back of the gauge cluster cover. as illustrated here. Once all screws are removed, just like the black pastic gauge cover, remove the upper gauge cover off gentley. They are tabbed in place, so apply the righ pressure. Note: when you remove the cover, be sure you have the washer for the 5th screw. This holds and aligns the cover of the cluster in place. as shown here Once the top is off, you will need to gain access to the bottom half. this is where most of the work will be done. here are the major things you will need to do - Remove trip pieces - unscrew support holding ignition/key - remove driver left AC vent Lets begin with taking off the side cover where the fuse housing is and the AC vent. Use the wedge tool to open the side panel and to take the ac unit out. the AC unit pops out as an entire pice, though the trim may seperate, this is normal, but becareful , damaging the trim will result in a loose fit. The reason for this to come out is there is a screw that holds the lower portion in place, which later will be necessary to access the bottom part of the instrument cluster Next take off the trim. There are three screws, t-20's , that are behing them. use the wedge tool again, gentley take the trim off. Again use precaution when taking them out. the outer ignition/key cover is part of the trim. so make extra effort to be careful Once the trim is removed, and the screws , make sure you remove the support ring , which holds the ignition key in place by way of screwing around the threads of the ignition. there is a special tool for this, but i used a flat head screwdriver to pussh along some tabs gentley till it was unscrewed. Repeat for the trim on the right near the windshield wiper control arm on the steering will. there should be two screws to take off. Also note, the screw inside the AC vent on the left driver side, it should be on the upper corner. Next, once all screws have been removed, gentley remove the tabs off , again, use precaustion, these are tabs, and need to be taken off with extreme care avoiding damage to them, and causing not to fit properly Once the bottom is removed, go ahead and take out the remaining two bottom screws that hold/support of the cluster. Again,these are t-20 screws Once remove, it's self explanetory from there, there are a green and blue connector, with purple latches. unlatch both, and remove the old cluster. Put in the turbo cluster, and presto, turn your car on, and test the cluster b4 putting it back together. your cluster should then boot up and you will see what awaits! Further notes - When you hook up your gauge cluster, you will hear a weird buzzing noise, that's ok, it's just the cluster responding to its connection. You will also notice that your milage should be at 0.0 for new clusters or whoever's previous milage was on it, if you bought it used. So be forwarned, My friend who knows vw/audi's said clusters like these have a tendancy to carry over their last cars info on milage over to whichever car they are being installed. So note to yourself, to write down your actual mileage. Once done, and pre programed, go ahead and put everything back together, and yours should look like this Alright now! I hope everyone is successful as I was, and hope all you skeptics out there can take it easy and rest knowing someone already done this for you! hahahah Enjoy! if you have any other questions or comments, just PM or reply! I'll be more than happy to help! I will also be posting a turbo bumper upgrade too for those who are interested later once i get my spare headlight washer parts in! til then good reading folks :D :P
    1 point
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