Jump to content
×
×

 

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs are due Dec 6th, 2017. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must login to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/20/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    LN Engineering has just announced online access to their database of installed retrofit bearings. You can search by the LN door sticker number, or by VIN number to see if an LN bearing has been installed, when it was done, who did it, and the mileage at that time it was installed. Caveats are that the installer had to register the installation, which not all did, and assumes the same engine is still in the car. This should help those looking at used cars with claimed installed retrofits determine if the claim is real. http://imsretrofit.com/ims-check/
  2. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    Clutch slipping

    Labor rates vary with geography, so you will have to check them locally. Figure on 4-6 hours, plus parts. A full clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing) should retail in the $400-500, assuming your dual mass flywheel is still good. If it isn't, add $1K. You should update the RMS while doing this, and it is also a great opportunity to retrofit the IMS while it is apart.
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    JFP in PA

    996 Ignition Switch replacement

    More often than not, when we get a car in with this problem post DIY ignition switch install, the owner knocked one (or both) of the pedal switch connections loose.
  6. 1 point
    To put the oil source in perspective, the cylinder heads are one of the hottest and dirtiest sources of oil. There have also been reports of lifter noise and VarioCam problems when oil is drawn from the head, both of which problems went away when the oil feed line was disconnected. The actual reason only one retrofit kit manufacturer uses oil coming from the filter is that this method is protected by a patent; but the filter area oil is both cooler and just filtered as well. If it wasn't patented, others would use it as it is a better oil source.
  7. 1 point
    lewisweller

    Secondary Air Pump

    Thomas I had the same issue the valve is stuck open and allows hot exhaust to pump back into the pipe and into the air pump. Use a 1/2-3/4" GI plug can't remember the exact size (Pic attached)and jubilee clip to close the pipe and forget about it. Pulsing sound will be gone as well. The valve part no 10 is not electronic, its mechanical only, it's spring loaded and the air pump opens the valve against the spring pressure. You can replace the valve but it is extremely difficult to access.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    jmoorenc

    2006 Cayenne Turbo Misfire

    My 04 cayenne turbo had the same issues with intermittent stumbling and it ended up being the left fuel pump. I spent one Saturday replacing both fuel pumps plus the regulator and the filter all at the same time. No issues since. My initial codes were for misfires as well. If you do this job yourself make sure you take notice of how all the hoses inside the tank are connected together and to the fuel pumps and regulator. It’s easy to hook them back up wrong like I did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    scanner-1

    OEM Cayenne Wheel Specs

    Your owner's manual will have the OEM wheel specs, then I have found the following site helpful: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=275-45-20X9ET57&wheel2=275-45-20X9ET60&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm
  12. 1 point
    Ahsai

    MAF Fault code P0102 short/open circuit

    Glad to hear. What was the culprit?
  13. 1 point
    Ahsai

    Pre-cat O2 sensor

    You may want to try PBblaster and Kroil. WD40 is useless as penetrating oil. Use a quality O2 sensor socket with a long breaker bar.
  14. 1 point
    Ahsai

    MAF Fault code P0102 short/open circuit

    ^This and also check the MAF voltage reading using the Durametric. Should be around 1.1v with key on engine off and 1.3v at idle (engine hot).
  15. 1 point
    I would start by checking the voltage to the MAF sensor first. Disconnect the wire and put the ignition key on, check voltage. If none, check the wiring harness connections on the right side of the engine compartment. Disconnect them and clean with electrical cleaner.
  16. 1 point
    Usually, P0102 is a wiring break or short, and you should be checking the wiring from the MAF to the DME (where it gets its power), not the ignition switch.
  17. 1 point
    Hilux2400

    Engine deck lid emergency cable

    Here are a few pics to help. I also did a tutorial on it. One picture has the light cluster removed to show the cable.
  18. 1 point
    Loren

    Option Code Sticker

    That service is free here to all of our Contributing Members...
  19. 1 point
    Loren

    cooling fan problem

    From the Porsche Technical Book on operation...
  20. 1 point
    Yes it is a direct bolt on conversion.
  21. 1 point
    Green Mailer

    Power Seat control knob

    Big bump on this thread. Is anyone still searching for the passenger door knob? I may have found a source for them. I will report back once mine is received and I have had a chance to inspect it. -GM
  22. 1 point
    mick968

    Steering Faulty Porsche Cayenne

    I've been a Porsche guy for 30 plus years.I know the game and rules of engagement. But the "Steering Faulty" code that has left my wife (and her Cayenne Turbo) stranded and apparently immovable may be the straw that breaks my Porsche back! How it can run seemlingly perfect one moment then leave you dead and with no apparent workaround the next............. Sorry to say that any responsible or rational that this vehicles lack of trustworthy is out the window right now So incredibly disapointing and discouraging?
  23. 1 point
    SpawnyWhippet

    Back to life? New member!

    I have a pretty well equipped home garage (in the Menlo Park area) with a MaxJax lift, quite a few Porsche specific tools and Durametric Pro. I have done a lot of work on 1972 - 2007 Porsches, from partial engine rebuilds and IMS bearing updates to spark plug changes. I'm open to letting local Porsche guys use these and will help wrench on cars in exchange for assistance on mine when needed.
  24. 1 point
    Symptom: CEL light comes on and when investigated, P0492 code (or similar) is detected. The following code description is observed in Durametric SW: Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC lightWhat is wrong:From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.Hope this helps someone make the repair.Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump), at nice leisurely pace. The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.Have fun. *** EDIT*** - I was gone for a while and all my pics had been removed from my tutorials. Regardless how it happened, here they are.
  25. 1 point
    As long as the coupler had sufficient ridge to catch the flywheel bolts, and the coupler rests nicely on the seal, you are golden. Couple of points on installing the RMS seal: Everything must be scrupulously clean, not even finger prints, no sealer or lubricants of any kind should be used as they will cause the new seal to leak. Clean and dry. The PTFE seal has a different installed depth: 13MM from the flywheel mating face of the crankshaft.
  26. 1 point
    First of all, when was the last time the clutch hydraulic fluid was flushed? We see a fair number of "dead clutches" that suddenly come back to life with some attention to the hydraulic system. RMS, if you are in there, change it. Porsche has significantly updated these seals, and the latest PTFE versions have all but eliminated leakage issues. You can definitely install the RMS using a 4" OD PVC pipe union, if you exercise care. Using the old flywheel bolts, which will rest on the ridge inside the union, hand tighten the bolts in a cross pattern slowly until you obtain the correct installed distance from the flywheel mating surface, which is 13MM, not 14. During the installation of the seal, keep all the surfaces scrupulously clean and free of any lubricant or sealants. Axles: As you did not say two or four wheel drive, the front axle to flange is 29 ft. lb.; rears are 60 ft. lb. at the transmission, 340 ft. lb. at the hub. Pressure plate bolts are 17 ft. lb., flywheel bolts are 19 ft. lb. +90 degrees. Both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts are single use only, so do not reuse them.
  27. 1 point
    These are the steps I took to change out my very heavy Battery. I have seen this done on a VW on YouTube but I wanted to start giving my two cents since I'm a newbie at this. I hope this helps someone else. 1. Hook up a battery charger to keep a flow of current to the electronics. Memory loss otherwise. 2.This is what I purchased from AutoZone. about $190 for the battery with some felt pads, grease and the triple square bits. 3. Move the front drivers set back and find the two triple square bolts that need to be removed. They could be under two plastic inserts that can be lifted out with a flat small screw driver which you with see the same for the back. I used a 1/2" ratchet wrench on the triple square bit (TSB) size 10. Here is the back. 4. Lift front of seat back and you will remove plastic section in front and then the plastic tabs to show the two bolts for seat frame. There are 4 total and all can be removed at this angle. 5. Remove seat frame bracket. 6. Cut zip tie off of clip. 7. This is what you should see now. Remove the Torx nut on vent size 25. 8. Remove vent and flip back carpet to show the other 2 metal clamps. 9. Unhook metal clamps x4 and remove lid. 10. This is what you should see now. Loosen the terminal to get to bracket screw. Loosen the other terminal to get to the battery hold down bolt and remove the acid leak hose out of the side. there are 4 things total to loosen with a 10mm socket. 11. Throw a little Terminal rub on post with felt pads. 12. Clean Terminal cables with brush. Attach cables back on and Done! Reverse to don everything back together. Tools I used are also shown.
  28. 1 point
    Installing his charger with this connector which has 3 leds on it to indicate battery condition at all times. First picture is what it looks like under the hood. Red cover hides 3 connectors including one big round post. The negative pipe can be seen just forward (to the left) sticking out. It is simply a conductive pipe attached to the frame. I stuck the camera inside to show how the white acorn nut holds the negative conductive pipe it to the frame. This picture shows a closeup of my use of a stainless steel small hose clamp to hold the connector to the ground pipe still leaving pipe to clam onto if necessary. Now you can see both connections made with the small comfort monitor/indicator flashing the existing charge level of the battery. I used a velcro tie wrap to hold the comfort monitor/indicator wire to the black plastic car part. No holes drilled, nothing done that can't be undone back to original. Then I connected the charger and took a couple pictures showing it at stage 3 out of 8. The little comfort monitor/indicator fits nicely in the space next to the ground point so no interference with the hood mechanism. An attached dust cap covers the contacts to keep them clean while stowed. Note: After charging, you will notice your car utilizes the Automatic engine shutoff at stops more often than when the battery is not fully charged. Note: Not enough experience or information found on whether this charger in fact lengthens battery life or the reverse! Finally a picture of the nice bag that comes with the charger--reinforcing that you connect the DC before the AC, then set the mode. UPDATE: The "comfort" connector's 3 LED lights stopped working although the connector continued to work/charge the battery. I removed this part nevertheless and replaced it with the connector that didn't have the lights on it. I returned and Amazon credited back the cost of the LED connector. Don't really need the LEDs so will leave it the way it is. UPDATE2: Because the CTEK gets pretty hot, I decided to mount it on a heatsink. I figured that if the heat left the body of the CTEK quicker, it would last longer. I ordered a large heatsink off of heatsinkusa.com which is pretty good because they can cut their extrusions to whatever length you want. I ordered the one that's 7.28" wide and had them cut it at 3". I filed off the plastic "feet" that were molded into the base of the CTEK so it would sit flat on the heatsink. I drilled holes thru the two mounting holes of the CTEK into the heatsink and tapped it out w/#10 x 32. Installed the screw but wasn't careful as the head of the machine screw was a little too large so it put pressure on the mounting hole. Additionally I put a little oil on the threads. Between the two, the mounting holes cracked. They really weren't meant for a solid mount as it's mostly hollow where the mounting holes are located so I glued them back and filled the mounting holes with JB Weld. I'll then re-drill and things should be good to go. So the caution is if you decide to do this, go gently with the mounting holes!
  29. 1 point
    I like pictures when I read a DIY, so I made these up to demonstrate what you are in for when you want to change your plugs. Use these pictures in conjunction with the writeup by ebaker...
  30. 1 point
    DUTCH VanAtlanta

    4WD Options on Cayenne

    See the attached file. Off_Road_Driving.pdf
  31. 1 point
    There have a been a few occurances of the cabrio top not fully completing the cycle, or simply refusing to open or close. If the hand brake light is on, very likely it is a low hydraulic fluid condition. The work below shows step by step how to add the fluid to the system. Tools needed: 5 mm allen wrench Flat screwdriver Children medicine syringe with small hose 1 Bottle of hydraulic fluid. Porsche is the recommended, I have used John Deere below with no problems after 4 weeks of filling: The steps for the process: 1. Open the top partially to the position shown 2. Pull the cables that the keep the rearmost part of the top secured to the car. One cable per side, the separate the cable from the connection in the car. 3. Let top move towards the close postion and move it out of the way. 4. Use a flat screw driver to remove the 4 plugs that keep the rear carpet in place. Remove the carpet, starting at the top as shown 5. Not a bad time to vacuum this piece while it is out. If you have kids, remove the lollipop sticks :P The work area will look like this: 6. This is the system pump you are looking for. Notice the screw where the Allen wrench will go to. Remove the screw, and keep a magnet pick up tool nearby if it fall down. 7. Use a flashlight on the oppsite side and shine direcly to the reservior. You will be able to clearly see the level and the gap to full. The fullmark is in the front below the screw removed. 8. To fill the top, use the syringe filled with fluid and insert the hose into the hole below. WARNING, the brass washer may fall off if you are not carefull, you can remove it or leave it and chance it. It probably won't move 9. Replace the screw, using fingers first to get it started. Take your time, will not be easy the first round. Finalize withe Allen wrench 10. Replace the carpet (did you clean it?) and the secure it with the plugs. Move the top back in place and secure the cables to the car. Open and close the top a few times. Enjoy the open air And remember, nothing races like a Porsche, but nothing runs like a deer
×