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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/18/2024 in all areas

  1. Most factory installed Zenon headlights require a separate controller for the HID system.
    2 points
  2. We have installed many B&M shifters over the years, and they have proven to be one of the best when it comes to durability, and in fact we have never had to replace one. More likely, you have a cable or cable end issue.
    1 point
  3. The immobilizer shuts off both the fuel and ignition systems to prevent theft of the car. The CPS does the same thing if it does not sense the engine rotation. When you jump the fuel pump relay, the immobilizer is out of the picture, so if you do not hear the pump running when it is jumped, you have a fuel pump issue. Using a multi meter or Power Probe, you can test the fuel up connector at the tank to see if it goes hot when cranking the engine.
    1 point
  4. "I did see a message at one time while cranking saying the immobilizer was not in a ready state but I haven't been able to reproduce that message again." That is very concerning, that unit will paralyze the car if it is unhappy, so I would start there, pulling the unit and looking for evidence of corrosion, water damage, and check the glass fuse in the unit itself.
    1 point
  5. Reviving an 18 year old thread for a reason. Old Porsches often times end up in the hands of enthusiastic folks that are on a budget. Such is the case of my 26 year old '97 986, with 57K. When things happen, old Porsches need a less expensive and better solution than factory parts. So to cut to the chase: couple of weekends ago, the Boxster comes out of hibernation in the garage, fixed the windshield washer, the oversensitive horn (teflon washers under the air bag), and replaced the ignition switch (Audi part), all for under $20, couple of hours in the sun. Took it for a spin and 8 miles from the house left me with just 3rd and 4th gears (good thing I did not need reverse). Got it home, though starting in 3rd was not fun. Sure enough, the side-to-side portion of the shift linkage fell off at the bottom 8mm ball of the transmission ('97, '98+ have 10mm). So, options were a new Porsche linkage with the same plastic/rubber ball sockets ($200+), or a metal replacement for $125. And NEITHER comes with the 8mm ball socket needed for a '97. Solution, as someone posted somewhere (can't find it again), was two metal ball sockets, an 8mm for the bottom and 10mm for the top, a 304 stainless M6x1.0 threaded rod, 304 stainless locking nuts. See pix if I can upload. Had a heck of a time finding 8mm metal ball socket. Altogether $20 and an hour of work duplicating the factory linkage. Exactly 126mm center-to-center of the ball sockets. A good glob of bearing lube in each ball socket and the linkage was installed in minutes, without taking off the triangular aluminum underbelly. The side-to-side motion is more precise with the metal ball sockets, with plenty of freedom for the linkage to move. Thus begins the endurance test. The factory linkage WILL leave you stranded sooner or later. Mine had a retainer clip on top but nor on the bottom 8mm ball. Anyway, if anyone is interested in a linkage for a '97 (8mm and 10mm balls) or a later model (10mmx2), I can precision make them for about $60, including the above materials and an hour or so of my time. If you are not driving like a grandma (that's how I drive) or are racing your Boxter, you got to have a metal linkage. I may eventually post a dozen of my frugal fixes that have stood the test of time, have this Boxster going on 10 years. BTW the top 10mm side of the old factory socket is also toast.
    1 point
  6. I think it is more the other way around; K40 are well known for their "hidden" systems that range from radar and/or laser detection systems, as well as highly illegal jammers to block both radar and laser signals. Even their very basic systems start at around $700 for their portable units, so they are rather expensive to say the least. I have never been a fan of their hidden systems as they tend to mount the signal receivers low to the ground (in the front grill or near the rear license plate for example) which dramatically reduces their effective range. To offset this limitation, K40 turned up the wick on signal sensitivity, which tends to lead to constant false signals, as you just found out 😉
    1 point
  7. History has shown the Tip to be sensitive to worn-out or dirty ATF. It can cause all kinds of erratic operation. Make sure the fill is done properly also with the fill level checked at the proper ATF temperature. That would be the place I would start. Everything else will require special diagnostic tools and more cost.
    1 point
  8. SOLVED : Changed SIM card ... apparently one needs to use a SIM card with NO MORE than 8Mb of storage ... hard to find these days, but works flawlessly now.
    1 point
  9. Hi .actually mine was the same. Needs a new display. Nothing to do with software
    1 point
  10. If your battery is dead and you need to get into the front trunk, it may be necessary to locate the manual pull wire to open the front trunk and get to the battery. This might be more difficult to locate the first time. You may not be in a good location to wrestle the right front tire splash guard to find it. It might be night time or you may not be dressed in the correct clothes to be down by the tires trying to locate it. I would recommend that you take the time to locate it in good weather and in the comfort of your garage or better yet re-route the wire to the front bumper behind the plastic plug the hides the location for the tow fish eye bolt. To get started I removed the carpet liner in the front trunk. The front trunk liner is made up of 2 sections and I only had to remove the front section. There was one thumbscrew clip on the passenger side and one thumbscrew clip opposite on the driver's side. Also on the driver's side there was one snapin clip and 2 additional snapin clips located in the front of the trunk. All five clips are very easy to find and remove. I then removed the plastic trim directly on top of the front trunk latch and microswitch. There are 4 screw plugs and you simply turn the plastic plugs 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn: I then removed the passenger side head lamp by using the tool in the Boxster tool kit. The kit is usually located near the spare tire in the front trunk. Turn the wrentch about 1/2 turn counter clockwise to unlock the headlamp. Slide the head lamp out. You may have to jiggle it a little but it should slide out with very little effort. Once the light is out you will be able to locate the pull wire. It is clamped into a lasso at the end. In the photo below you can see it at the end of the red arrow. The red oval in the top of the photo is the plastic wheel splash guard. The passenger front tire is directly behind that. Some recommend to access the pull wire from the tire side but that is a little more difficult and you still have the problem of trying to re-rout the wire up to the front bumber. Doing it from the head lamp side makes it easy. Here is another photo with my finger pointing at the pull wire. Remove the front bumper plastic cover that hides the tow plug. I used a plastic upholstery tool and the plastic cap popped right out. The plug has a fishline wire connected to it to prevent you from losing it. Use the light from a flashlight to guide you (from the front bumber side) and re-route the pull wire from the headlight to the tow plug. Having the top plastic guard off makes this very easy. Tuck the pull wire back in and re-insert the pastic bumber plug. Reassembly is just the reverse. Slide the headlamp back into the guides and push it home, use the wrentch and turn clock wise. you will hear a loud pop when the headlamp is secured. You know have easy access to the emergency pull wire.
    1 point
  11. Replacement regulators use to come with 2 stops installed that were blue plastic and were held in place with a torx screw. You left in the upper stop for a Boxster. The new replacement regulators I have seen come with the lower stop riveted in place. The upper stop and rivet is in a plastic bag. Those stops are white plastic. Did not ask the mechanic why the window travel is different on 986/996. At least that is what I remember.
    1 point
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