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talkenrain
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Thanks again to the members of this forum. So glad you all are here. THANKS -
My problem can be marked Solved I'm not sure if the problem was self inflected since i was just recently in the same area (other side) but looking at the pictures of the relay/DME area of the rear deck on the relay side the chamber that houses all the wires had a few stray wires that where not in the chamber and where squished against the large aluminum panel of the relay circuits. I have a heavy subwoofer that sets on top of this area so I think the weight combined with the heat (over 100 degrees here lately) along with engine/subwoofer vibrations wore away the insulation and shorted against the aluminum panel (ground). The wire being shorted was from the "high/low pressure 3 level cooling water switch" (pin 1). This sources 12v to the air conditioner compressor relay (pin 3, violet/yellow) whenever the ignition is on and cooling water switch is in it's normal closed position. This can all be found in the area of L49 of the wiring diagrams. I insulated the wire, made sure they are all in the wire harness, then remounted the relay panel. Short removed, air conditioner and heater fan are both working properly again.
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Sounds like a great product. I'll try to find one locally. Thanks... although, now that I'm thinking about it I guess I could just use a small 12v bulb across the fuse holder contacts and get the same results.
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So I removed my fresh air blower. Bench checked it, it checks out fine. I'm going to check the Actuating heat relay and Air conditioning compressor relay tomorrow but I think my problem is somewhere around the 3-level cooling water switch. I don't think it's the air conditioning compressor or relay because I've switched it off and new fuses continues to blow. I tried a new fuse with the blower fan removed from the circuit as well (still blew) So i'm pretty sure I'm tracking down a hard short to ground. I'd be surprised if it's the control unit but I fortunately have a spare to try if needed.
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D6
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Ok, thanks. The 30A fuse blew while the air compressor was working. So my new project is to discover if it's the fan motor or the compressor thats shorted. My guess is the fan because I've turned off the compressor from the control unit then replace the fuse but it blew immediately. I'll unplug the compressor and try again to confirm. If you can point me to a wiring diagram, that would be very helpful.
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I now on the second hottest day of the year am having the same issue. Replace the fuse and the second one piped instantly. I'll pull the relay and check the fan for a short but does anyone have a diagram of what the circuit looks like? Would be very helpful in troubleshooting. Is this fuse only for the fan or does it support other circuits?
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Thanks, I'll give that a try but now that I've passed the emissions test and have my car properly registered, It's not an issue. I still need to finish taking apart the old solenoid and publish the results. That will be coming soon.
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At the smog test facility (DEQ), all systems had become ready except the secondary air (after logging about 50 miles in all different conditions). I don't know about other states but in this state you can have up to 1 test device "not ready" and still pass. Its been very hot here in the northwest the past week with temperatures over 100 degrees. Combine this with some aggressive driving and stop and go traffic. So far there are no leaks spotted. Everything looks sounds and drives great. Engine pulls strong, no misfires. I ran a quick Durametric test again today (see pictures). It still reports no errors. Engine cam timing is identical to before. I can now preform the "camshaft adjustment" on bank 1 and/or bank 2 from the program.
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Very true and again, thank you both.... Funny you bring hand washing up... I must have washed my hands about 50 times between doing something to the car in the garage then coming inside, washing my hands then getting on my main computer to load new pictures, ask a question or just update the progress. In hind-sight I could/should have just used the computer connected to the durametric in my garage. Geez,
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Closer to $2k with the motor mounts and misc maintance and yes, it feels great. Very accomplished and closer to my car. Oh and the new OEM motor mounts raised the exhaust at least an inch and really improved shifting stability (they where completely shot). Proper advance gives that extra power I'd been missing. Finally felt confident to step on it and it fells great (better than ever). I truly can't thank you guys enough for all your guidance. I'm now not afraid of wrenching my Porsche...
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Just passed the local emissions test (DEQ). Finally...
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Quick update durametric shows variocam advance on both banks just as expected. Pictures later but wanted to announce the great news...
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Update. It's all back together. Oiled up and ready to go. I started it and let it run for a little while to allow the oil to flow through and check for leaks. My next step is to connect to the durametric and check the variocam advance. More to come...
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Great, thats what I expected but was concerned if the leak was bad it could cause other issues/problems. I'll re-evaluate after i've had some time dealing with a few other life projects (hot water heater issues today, Oh the joys of home ownership)... Thanks !!!
