BobbySpeed

The title says it all. Folding works, passenger side dip for checking curb works. 2006 V6 Cayenne 110,000 miles. Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts and experience.

Dealer took care of recalls and stated further diagnosis would be needed for the headlamp alignment issue. At first the service writer stated I had to replace the headlamp, when I balked he said he would ask the technician doing the recalls. I asked if the headlamp couldn’t just be put into proper alignment using the hex screws on the side of the light, but they are looking to hit me up just for Connecting the PIWIS to the car- probably because In 14 years I’ve only gone to them for recalls and an occasional part.

I bought a used spindle off flea bay, had a new wheel bearing pressed in it, had it installed, and had an alignment all by an indie. Had the dealer pick it up from where my wife works, they left her a 2018 Macan, they did the airbag and fuel filter flange, and they delivered it to her the next day. Clayed, compounded, polished, and waxed the car, followed by an hour of cleaning the interior and conditioning the leather, runs and looks great. 100, 758 miles on her, going to swap out the head unit with a Pioneer w/ navigation and put in a backup camera.

When I start the car I get the headlamp adjustment error, and when I shut the car off the headlights make noise like electric gears having trouble adjusting the headlamps. I have the lights delayed 15 seconds after locking the car. I pulled the headlamps because I needed to replace my cornering bulbs and inspected the wiring inside the housings. Everything looked fine in one housing, and the other looks has a broken wire with white material insulation. 2006 V6 Cayenne Bi-Xenon headlamps Help?

What I figured, but I had to ask.

Unfortunately, brake caliper bolt repairs use the largest heli coil and time sert, so no can do.

Doing the front brakes on my 2006 V6 Cayenne with 205k mi. the caliper bolts on the driver side took a lot of strength to lean on a breaker bar to get them out. Both holes needed to be re-tapped. On the top hole the threads came out with the bolt. On the bottom hole I was able to re-thread the hole with a tap and it holds the full torque of 200 ft. lbs. On the top Hole I couldn’t re-thread it so I went with a time set kit. Unfortunately, the time sent is a little loose in the hole. Obviously, I screwed up. What can I do other than replacing the whole knuckle? I don’t know how to weld. I was thinking of cleaning everything up with denatured alcohol and trying JB Weld to hold/weld in the time sert, but I am unsure if that will work. I can pick up a knuckle off flea bay, but that means I need access to a press, which I don’t have. I can’t drive anymore due to medical reasons, but my son could use the car for the winter instead of his GTI which is a sled in the snow. My son can’t wrench to save his life. Yes I know about anti-seize, and I thought I used it. The caliper bolts on the other side of the car came out without damaging the threads, maybe I forgot yo put anti-seize on the caliper bolts on this side. Either way, I need help. The stealer will want around $500 for the knuckle, and probably another $800-$1000 for labor. Then there are the parts they will say that they have to replace to do the job to their specifications. I expect them to do press in a new wheel bearing as they should. That’s a lot of money to put into a car that’s almost 14 years old considering that if it gets into an accident the insurance company will total it and give me next to nothing, and I just put new front discs and rotors on the car. Suggestions?

Multimeter

Ok, I started squeezing it like a teet on a cow and water broke through. Now anyone readiy this post knows where it is.

My passenger/right side sunroof drain is filled with water. I’ve tried the Weedwhacker line twisting spinning with the Terrel etc. have gotten past depends into the connector but then hit a wall. I’d like to go from the firewall up to the top with the sunroof training starts but I can’t find out where it is in the firewall. It looks like it should be that nipple in the bottom photo, but there is no hole in it for the water to exit. I really need to find this and be done with it already. I tracked it from the bottom of the eight pill or two behind the fuse box but after that my fat hands can’t reach it to follow it anymore.

... and if I start running short of wire what kind of wire do I solder in to replace it?

Checked all the fuses, but will look at thise other spliced wires. The strands of the black wires in the picture when cut back are very grey.

It clIcked when I turned the key.

Anuone?

... and how do you remove the 433 relay under the seat? I want to test it without breaking it.