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rockhouse66

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rockhouse66 last won the day on November 6 2016

rockhouse66 had the most liked content!

About rockhouse66

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday

Vehicle Information

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 996 Cabrio 6-speed

Profile Information

  • From
    Western NC
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

198 profile views
  1. Congrats on completing the job. I did the same. AOS was the hardest part IMO. I used "guide pins" in the block (made from bolts with the heads cut off) to help with the gearbox install. It ensures you are lined up square, which is kind of hard to be sure of when working alone under the car. The fine splines on the input shaft don't help either, as far as getting the thing engaged properly in the clutch disc. I have 1500 miles on my work now with no issues or leaks so I am starting to relax! Best of luck with yours.
  2. On my car, there are two washers like that behind the rear license plate plastic plate. Between the plate and the body. Not sure how one would end up where you found it though? Anyway, another place to look.
  3. So apparently these are actually vacuum lines not fuel lines. I just spent 45 minutes at a Porsche dealer parts counter with no success identifying this item. He suggested I remove the clip and try to find a number molded into it. To do this, I think I need to lower engine for better access. Before I go to this trouble, I am bumping this in hopes of some help with the p/n please.
  4. I want to replace the two plastic fuel line clips on the LH side of the engine compartment (which I partially broke struggling with replacement of the coolant tank). I thought I had these figured out as p/n 999 507 521 40 but these are not correct. I would also appreciate some tips on how these are fastened. There appears to be sort of a plastic pin on the RH side of the clip - how does that come out? (not much room in that area either) It is the clip at the top of this photo that retains the fuel line and some other stuff.
  5. I use one of these to jump the switch. Nice and tidy and easy to do/undo by feel. Not as cheap as a paper clip but handy to have in the glove box just in case.
  6. The mod you are describing is the same as the Fister mod. You can buy modified mufflers from Fister outright or exchange, or it can be done by a muffler shop. Many owners have done this and report satisfaction with the sound. I don't think this is the same as the PSE exhaust routing, which actually has two inlets and one of them bypasses a portion of the muffler internal baffling.
  7. Those are all good suggestions but you don't have to drop the engine to do the IMS/RMS and clutch. I'm sure you know this but didn't want andrewjt19 to think otherwise. Replacing the water pump and serpentine belt would be other items that are worth doing and can be done with the engine in the car. Of course, if you buy a car with complete service records you can make judgement calls on whether it is time to do these PM items or not. Lacking those records, it would be prudent to do as many as you can afford to do soon after purchase to start building a service record for the car and head off potential problems.
  8. I have done the whole enchilada. IMS, RMS. AOS, spin on filter, water pump, coolant tank, serpentine belt, clutch, motor mounts, oil analysis, sump inspection, etc. I think I will just consider my work "done".
  9. Thanks for the input from all this experience and knowledge. I have done a lot of PM work DIY and have been successful with it so I guess I am feeling a little cocky about digging deeper. I think I will just leave well enough alone, as I can't really address all of the possible failure modes without a complete rebuild of what is currently a great running, no issues engine.
  10. I have tried to address as many components as I can to reduce the risk of a failure. The only thing left that seems to fit in the preventive maintenance category is the timing chain, which some have reported could break without warning. I'm not eager to do the job but also don't want to overlook a weak point that I could address. Is there some way to determine the condition of the chain?
  11. I understand that with the availability of a master link style timing chain, the chain can be replaced with the engine in the car. Has anyone attempted this and, if so, any tips? I am considering a proactive replacement. Can the condition of the chain be determined by timing deviations or can you see the chain by removal of some component to assess condition? My car is a 2002 C2 with manual transmission.
  12. At that mileage a water pump replacement would be good preventive maintenance. Even if that proves to not be the source of this specific leak, it is time and the possible consequences of a WP failure make this an easy decision IMO.
  13. Since I started this thread, I will comment that I now have about 1500 miles on the work I did and all good. I feel as though I have done all I could reasonably do preventatively to avoid an issue, so now I will just drive it and see what comes. Well....then there is that **** timing chain.
  14. I don't know the right answer to this but I do know that in big city life, mixed with a lot of long highway miles (travelling salesman), 35 MPH was about all I averaged. (not in a P car - maybe I would have averaged 60 MPH if I had one as a company car)
  15. The dual row has an internal clip that you can't see. Read the LN Engineering installation instructions and you will see what I'm talking about.