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I had an Audi that developed random stalls. Ran perfectly, and just before the warranty ran out the dealer said there was an interior oil leak in the engine ??? They replaced the heads and bingo, random stalls. I traded the car before the warranty ran out. A few weeks later I spoke with the tech (in the parts dept) that worked on my car for most of the last two years, something the dealer wouldn't let me do - speak to the tech, and he said the new sensors they installed had a different size vacuum fitting and the vacuum hoses no longer fit well enough so they would used clamps to make them fit tight. Long way of saying check the vacuum.
ttocs replied to roberta berks's topic in 9YA (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)Hmmmmm, perplexing indeed. Sorry you're having this difficulty.
ttocs replied to roberta berks's topic in 9YA (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)Knowing a bit about electronics in general, I would say that if there's a Aux Battery and it's got a problem then it's going to continue to be a problem while connected to the system. But I will defer to those gurus with the noggin voodoo (vast knowledge).
ttocs replied to roberta berks's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Have you checked the main and aux car batteries for proper voltage? An under-volt battery can cause weird things to happen. On my car it triggered Limp Mode which only allowed the trans to shift up to third gear.
ttocs replied to roberta berks's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)I know, I have a different car from possibly a different era, but . . . Sometimes when the car won't respond to the buttons on the key - even after starting the car - it takes using the key in the door lock to make it better. This has only happened a couple times since owning the car for four years. I was fearful of needing to get the system reprogrammed, but nope, just needed to manually lock and unlock the car. go figure
The Tiptronic, while driving in 5th, can shift to 4th in an instant with a little bit of throttle. If there was no change in throttle and driving on level road then yes, there's a problem. At a low enough speed, but just enough to be in 5th, any tiny increase in throttle will result in a downshift.
Tiptronic??? I presume? How many years and kilometers on the fluid? Has the fluid "ever" been changed? When you are stopped, in manual mode, if you change from 2nd to 1st does the trans shift "bang" hard into 1st? or really smooth?
Ahhh, I see. Well, 1 lift is certainly quicker than 2.
I just gotta say, if you're only lifting one corner "quickly", jacking at the proper liftpoint and putting a stand under the car elsewhere for safety seems like the way to go if you only need the corner up for a few minutes. But as soon as two jacking points are needed and more time under the car, safety is jeopardized if the stands are not able to restrict lateral movement. It's the possible/likely sliding off of the first stand while jacking at the second point that's scary. I know people do it all the time, I tried it as well the first time I wanted to lift the front of the car, but it's not stable unless the car and stand(s) are "locked" together is such a way as to minimize lateral movement. And, rolling the jack under the car "blind" is fraught with possible nastiness. Gotta watch out for coolant lines. There are modifications some have made to jackstand heads by adding a "pin" that engages the liftpoint hole on our cars. I considered this, but when the cost/time analysis plus the wear and tear of less-approved undercarriage jacking points were added together in my head, the $290 I spent (shipped) on the Liftbars was well worth it (the cost is more now, still worth it). There are nifty jackstands available that the floorjack lifts directly. Granted they cost more than Liftbars, but if only raising one or two corners of the car they are probably the quickest way to do it. As soon as you get to the height you need, slip in the lock pin and you're done. Finally, I use the Liftbars even when just cleaning the wheels because to me they're quick to use, and I only need to jack once per side.
I'd be worried. Look at Liftbars. They are very safe, stable, and quick to use. Go to liftbars.com and see for yourself. They lock into the liftpoint holes and good jackstands cradle the liftbars and together they "lock" into position making it a very stable condition. Last I checked they're only a few hundred shipped. It only takes me a couple minutes to put my car on jackstands, just a couple. It would be less if I could pick up my lift and run to the other side like those guys do in Nascar pit stops.
ttocs replied to Stomachbuzz's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)Welcome and Happy New Year! First off, this forum has a wealth of knowledge based on experience, and I found it so helpful with the pre-purchase education that I became a contributing member several days before I picked up my Boxster. Within one day of purchase this knowledge base came in handy for a problem that sprung up . . . . I got a "D-4" flashing led gear indicator lights, long story you can search for if interested, and it turned out to be the weak battery which was diagnosed during the Pre Purchase Inspection. After replacing the battery, no more issues. You might consider replacing the battery "before" replacing parts listed as the cause of CEL's. These electrical systems have a way of doing strange things when operating on a "under-volt" battery. So this would be for #2 and #3. For #2, just as an FYI, when our cars are locked for about a week or more you will not be able to open the locks with the FOB until after using the key to manually unlock then start the car. This is not what is happening with your car at the moment, but I bring it up because it might possibly be related to weak battery?? Don't know, but if it were me I would replace the battery now, then clear everything, then retest. edit: btw, love the Carmon Red!
ttocs replied to dammad's topic in 997-2 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S, Carrera GTS, 911 Speedster)Looks to me that the brake light is misaligned as well. It looks to be a smidgeon "forward" at the top in relation to the quarter panel, as well as the engine cover being a tad "aft". Smidgeon and tad are both very technical terms, whereas forward and aft are simply nautical.
Thanks a99C4tip for posting the link to Eriksson Industries. Good to know another source for Tip parts. I didn't see anything listed for trans fluid so here's what I did when I changed my fluid. I bought Pentosin's ATF1 for my 2004. The data sheet for ATF1 says that G052162A2 is the VW/Audi OE number and the fluid is listed as being Amber & Clear in color. I purchased Pentosin ATF1 in 5 liter containers from a local CarQuest auto parts that always has some in stock, they sell quite a bit at this location. Buying from a Porsche dealer will cost a bit more even when you use your PCA Member discount, but then there's the peace of mind thing if there's any doubt in your mind.
ttocs replied to ILCUL8R's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)Excellent news! Earlier this year I had a noise that wasn't always repeatable. It only happened on very hard right bends, like on on-ramps to highways. Mine might be a lesser version of what yours was. I had concluded that my noise was just reflected sound. But now . . . . might be worth checking into further. Thanks for posting this!