Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Ok so I just pulled the clutch flywheel etc again, it turned out that I didn't tighten the tool enough so the seal was pushed in about 12mm, so I decided to tighten all the way and the seal depth was exactly 13mm from the face of the shaft where the flywheel attaches to down to the seal. So according to all the tips I've gotten so far this should work perfectly as this tool drives the seal to 13mm on the dot. I will test and give a feedback after a period of use.
Just saw this from JFP after rereading this thread, I have another seal and will pull the one I installed yesterday today. I've made something to measure the depth and plan to use the same tool, it will take time measuring, tightening all over, but perhaps a small price to pay to get things done properly. I'm thinking I may be able to add washers at the long bolt end to compensate for the few mm's the seal went in beyond the 13mm point.
Thanks for your contribution, I'm subscribed to a few forums actually and I do appreciate the serious approach taken here on Renntech. My trans is still down and fortunatelyI have a spare seal. Would you or anyone mind sharing the correct depth?
Thanks for this JFP, unfortunately I do not have the luxury of getting the right materials to make my own
Yes I had read about the cleaning, I've tied my best follow all tips given by different folks, let's see what happens when I fire it up. Thanks.
Thought I'd share, firstly thanks to racerken for sending me detailed instructions on how to make the tool, unfortunately round my area we use very different materials and I couldn't get the right materials to use. Fortunately after a very deep search, I came across the tool attached below its called a Sir Tools P250 (or SIRP250) and I bought it on ebay for $140, just finished installing, everything looks good, I will follow up after testing.
Thanks for taking your time out to respond.
Thanks. Are there aftermarket tools that don't cost as much as the factory tools, seems pointless to purchase one just for myself, except I can get one that isn't so expensive.
Does anyone have any updates on easier ways to install this seal? I'm about to do a clutch and flywheel overhaul this week, I have the new type of seal ending 01 with the blue plastic, does that blue plastic serve any purpose in the installation process? Pictures of installation above are not showing, so any tips that can help would be most appreciated. Also what's the verdict on Curil T or no Curil T with this new seal?
Just thought I'd come back in and share, the Cayenne is up and running and just started today. I was given the car in February totally free from a property transaction I did with a dealer, they couldn't get it started so they figured it was junk. I posted a list of errors and it gave like 8 pages of errors with durametric which is attached in this thread somewhere, my pit bull nature the fact that as a Christian, the word impossible is foreign to me, I went for it. After reading up on threads about wiring harnesses frying up because of some leakages found in these cars, I accidentally bidded for a complete main wiring harness and had to pay $350 for it, its sitting there and I didn't need it, I thought it had the main unit I needed which was the relay box and harness in the engine pay, so I had to buy that one, not much, under $100 if I recall. While stripping the old one, I noticed that the two front drains had been blocked with gunk, this was the start of the issue. The drains blocked, water filled the compartment till it entered the relay tray and the ECU on the other side and fried some modules in the car. So after replacing the relay tray and harness, fault code drops to 3 pages, showing the engine control module, kessy module and tiptronic module were fried, so since I knew where we were going, I gave the car to my mechanic to finish up. I bought an ECU for £45 it didn't work, so we bought a paired ECU, Kessy Module and Tiptronic module installed tested it a couple of days ago and the engine started right up (See attached video) without a hickup, that's like 5 years or more ago since it started last. Total Spend so far $1000 out of which about $400 spent on parts not needed (going back on ebay). For me it's been the joy of getting another P-Car up to spec from zero another successful project, I'm looking forward to getting everything up and running, thought I'd share this as it may be useful to someone someday. VID-20170923-WA0007.mp4
Hi Chaps, Does anyone know if the main wiring harness on the 2004 Cayenne 3.2 would be the same as a 2006 Cayenne 3.2?
I totally agree with you, I've just pretty much finished restoring a 997 that was butchered in like manner, we're short of decent mechanics around these neck of the woods, and the only Porsche centre in the country that does have a PIWIS I've heard lost their only decent technician and he has left the country, so I had to stick with fixing up my 997 myself and it's been pure joy getting everything to how it should be. I will approach this with a great deal of caution as I did with the 997, it was a gift, if it remotely starts to look like a money pit, I will part it off pronto! Thanks for the advise!
Wow that was quick! It's a 2004 Cayenne Base 3.2 V6. A little background history.....the former owner is a Benz/Toyota dealer and has a workshop that messed up the wiring of the car something good, they just couldn't get it working, they don't know about Durametric, so the electrical guys went to down stripping, bypassing wires and hooking up relays. I've just spent a good part of the day taping up wires to where they should be and putting back fuses, then I ran Durametric and all the codes I got are in the attached PDF, I reckon this was an issue that could have been detected and fixed with the right tools. Thanks! errors.pdf
Howdy, I've just been given a Cayenne, I ran Durametric and I have the same codes, so when you changed the gateway, they call cleared and the car started? Right now it doesn't even crank up, I have a depress the brake to start which stays like that even when the break is pressed, not a single crank when I try to start it up. Any suggestions or anyone have this experience?