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lewisweller

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lewisweller last won the day on April 20

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About lewisweller

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  • From
    dubai uae
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  • Present cars
    CAYENNE TURBO(S) E81 power kit option, 2006 WITH GENUINE 2008 FACELIFT KIT CONVERSION
    AUDI A4 B8.5 3.0T S-LINE Revo Tuned stage 1+ 400+bhp 550nm torque
  • Future cars
    VEYRON (dream on)
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    Golf R 2012 APR STAGE 2+ (Street beast)
    GOLF GTI 1.8 20vT Jabbasport tuned (my first love)

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  1. Maybe was air locked and low coolant after thermostat replacement! Let's hope this fixed it or the cost might escalate significantly. Fingers crossed for you my friend.
  2. Vagcom can do it, when I replaced the upper control arm I had the same issue. You need to calibrate the positions height again. I'm not sure if the duremetrics can do it? Someone will chime in I'm sure to clarify. Or its a trip to somewhere with PIWIS.
  3. Very welcome Markplu. You have a few options 1. Change the cardan shaft which is quite expensive unless you go for a flee bay/amazon special which some have reported are OK! The main concern being whether its high speed balanced well and of course the quality of materials/longevity. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-Cayenne-VW-Touareg-Driveshaft-02-10-Propeller-Shaft-Drive-Shaft-CA/162526278568 2. Is to use one of these retro fit kits which doesn't require removal of shaft and just replaces the bush but uses the existing bearing which may or may not be worn out so be careful about that. Some people have removed the shaft and replaced the bearing and the bush and keep the original shaft. https://www.amazon.com/Clamping-Bearing-Support-Porsche-Cayenne/dp/B0063GQP6S 3. Do the whole diy job with this kit which I think is brilliant and also includes the flex disc which is likely to be nearly worn out or already worn out by 200k. This also keeps your oem shaft and the balance of it and is the cheapest option aside from being very much hands on job.
  4. Crawl under safely jack and Jack stand on the passenger side is the easiest way I found without a lift. Approximately in the middle centre of the car you will see this, first picture. Grab the shaft and shake it. If it is sloppy it's the bush worn out, really there should be no real movement. This is the most likely cause of thumping knocking banging noise under seat area. A vibration and noise with occasional click clunk can be the flex disc Rubber is split and sloppy. Second picture. This link will also help..... http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/29-SUSPEN-Driveshaft_Bearing_Support_and_Flex_Disc_Replacement/29-SUSPEN-Driveshaft_Bearing_Support_and_Flex_Disc_Replacement.htm
  5. Found the problem after having a look underneath... flex disc Thomas we have a winner. The garage have not tighten the bolts properly and the flex disc Rubber is visibly damaged. Big Sigh.
  6. Also one more thing to check is the coolant expansion tank cap! If the cap doesn't seal properly the coolant boiling point will be lower and this can lead to overheating also.
  7. Got car back from having the body work and Polish done, it looks quite sweet. Unfortunately as soon as I drive it for a minute I notice the disturbing vibration, in the drive train it feels like. Before the work it was silkly smooth and the centre bearing and flex disc was in good condition I checked. A constant vibration through the whole car increasing with road speed NOT with engine speed, I also heard a clunk when I deaccelerated down a slope and around a bend, just as I went back on the accelerator and the bend straighten out I heard the clunk. I'm guessing cardan shaft or front Propshaft but not sure how that could be installed wrong when it was perfectly find before? Maybe they didn't tighten the centre bearing bush cradle properly? Transmission shifting good and no leaks so far. Engine starts and runs fine and sounds OK. Hesitation is unchanged by torque convertor seal replacement in case anybody was wondering if this was linked. Sent message to the garage and will take it back in tomorrow afternoon to have a look. If anyone has any ideas what this could be please do reply. Might save us some trouble shooting time. Thanks
  8. Don't rule out either! Some water pumps was wearing out prematurely and decreased flow at idle is the effect. Also head gaskets can blow and push hot Gas into coolant without losing coolant. So have it tested anyway, it takes a few minutes. Aside from that the only other thing I can think of is slipping belt on water pump pulley or a blockage somewhere.
  9. You need to have the coolant tested for head gaskets failure. If not head gaskets then water pump wear is the last thing possible I think.
  10. Check the cardan shaft Centre bearing first and the flex disc, then start looking at other possibilities like the transfer case. The warning normally relates to a electronic fault inside the stepper motor and or the control module in earlier models, as opposed to a mechanical issue with the TC itself.
  11. Was a bit of a rush job, can you give me some more details of how many connectors you found and cleaned. I removed two metal dog leg shaped flat plates and the screws and the earth cable connected to each. Appreciated. Thank
  12. Car finished and according to the guys everything is OK. I haven't had time to go check. It's being collected tomorrow am and going for washing, polishing inside and out and ready for pickup Wednesday if I can get time to get there. It will be straight online for sale, I just wish I could fix the tail light warning crap! Also rear camera stuck still will have to pull that open and free it up some. And take the injectors out friday and do the professional cleaning on Saturday. Then it's bye bye
  13. No part numbers. The NBR hydraulic seal size 8mm x 38mm and the NBR oring I dont remember the diameter but 2.6-3mm was the thickness I think. For sure if you whip them out you can find a match at a nearby hydraulic/mechanical seal type shop. Top tip don't go for a thicker 3-4mm oring by thinking it will be better, the end seal plug won't fit back inside properly and the circlip won't sit in the groove either. When you start the engine and move the steering the end seal plug will push out and ***** fluid out everywhere. Ask me how I know?
  14. All good advice but not spending a dollar more than I have to. It took the guys about 3 days to drop and split. I dropped off the TC seal and crank shaft seal just last night and went back today 8pm and the engine is in and running. They will fill up the fluids I dropped off, atf, power steering and coolant. Also top strut mounts and wishbone top arm.
  15. This picture might help. I have 4 zone AC so two pipe at least go to rear heat exchanger.