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lewisweller

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lewisweller last won the day on March 24

lewisweller had the most liked content!

About lewisweller

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  • From
    dubai uae
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  • Present cars
    CAYENNE TURBO(S) E81 power kit option, 2006 WITH GENUINE 2008 FACELIFT KIT CONVERSION
    AUDI A4 B8.5 3.0T S-LINE Revo Tuned stage 1+ 400+bhp 550nm torque
  • Future cars
    VEYRON (dream on)
  • Former cars
    Golf R 2012 APR STAGE 2+ (Street beast)
    GOLF GTI 1.8 20vT Jabbasport tuned (my first love)

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  1. I doubt it. The fact you put a new sensor in and the fault came back might suggest a wiring harness issue to that sensor? I stated the charging capacities as this is a common mistake by shops. Some more in depth diagnostic required I think.
  2. How many grams did they put in? For four zone it 1050g For two zone it's 750g If they didn't charge it right either under or over it won't work properly. As me how I know when the German car specialist gagrage charged my four zone with 750g and it ran but not cold at all.
  3. Well I took out the injector rail today and stripped off each injector. Using a 9v battery I energised the injectors and cleaned them all with crc solvent degreaser cleaner. The injectors all were crap, and no amount of solvent would get a nice clean 4 spray pattern. Only 1 would remotely be acceptable I would think. I reinstalled everything and it started up fine. I ran it on each pump just to see if any difference between the left and right but none I could detect. Went for a drive (bare in mind I'm at just under the magic 1/4 tank) and it seems initially to be a bit cleaner to accelerate. So I put it through some mixed driving and the hesitation has not gone which is no surprise as I achieved nothing by cleaning the injectors, as they aren't clean. I put some techron fuel system cleaner in the less than 1/4 tank of fuel and went for some more driving, still seems a bit more lively bit not fixed by any means. Went through the auto car wash and vaccum bay engine was idling a long time and then shut off and then restart (loads of heat soak cycles I'm trying to accomplish here). Then I went and filled the tank to 3/4 full, this was on purpose because I didn't want a full tank incase the issue is some how to do with the evap canister getting saturated with full tank topped off etc. Restarted after fill up just fine but when I drove off the acceleration is terrible and hesitation is felt on way more places in the rpm range not just around 3k. I did some driving and acceleration testing, even stopped the engine, let it sit for 5 mins and restarted but was the same. So my conclusion is my injectors are wank. The picture is difficult to see the holes. But they look clear sometimes and sometimes blocked with something inside the pintle area. The reason why below 1/4 it not as bad is maybe simply because this is the time both pumps are running, this extra boost of pressure and flow capability possibly is enough to cover a little the blocked injectors, once I filled up its back to the left pump only and its dog rough again. Why are my fuel trims so good ???!!! Why don't I get lean codes ???!!!! Wtf????! New injectors are extremely expensive. Will proper injector cleaning work or are these just pass serviceable? Answers on a postcard. .......
  4. Nice looking repair job done right there. Description of Fix and pictures, top man.
  5. Yes I'm sure it's a pita to do. I would get a jubilee clip or two and some two part epoxy resin glue assemble it apply the epoxy when lovely and tacky but not already going off and then tighten up the jubilee clips. Once that epoxy goes hard it won't leak if you've done a good job. Suggest leave it overnight for adequate post curing of the epoxy resin. Jb weld is a product I've heard off on these forums works well.
  6. After watching my injection pulse width milliseconds in relation to my rpm and load it seems apparent what the dme is instructing is looking correct and logical according to the fuel map. So this begs the question are my injectors partially blocked? Could this be why once warm and any warm up enrichment is reduced their is simply not enough fuel flow to get a decent burn and results in the stutters, hesitations and idle Dip ? As computer Diagnostics aren't going to help much here I guess there is only one thing for it. This is my next little project in the continued search.
  7. Right about here?? Some people have epoxy bonded it back together as a fix but of course a new pipe (item 13 I believe excusing the terrible diagram representing the pipe that looks nothing much like it in reality) would give more piece of mind.
  8. 1-2 pumps is less than I expected so I would be looking for the leak. If the vac pump was bad it would likely produce a code but I may be wrong. Spongy pedal is suspect of the brake booster fault as well assuming brake fluid level is correct? If it was hydraulic then with engine off the pedal would depress to the floor and you confirmed it doesn't. Obviously at this point its prudent to say brakes are a major safety feature and taking advice on a forum from anybody is not as advisable as going to a well equipped garage and getting it diagnosed and fixed properly.
  9. Yep that's it, its called the Evap Purge Solenoid Valve. About 100 dollars. Also have a good look at the wiring to the plug, Thomas had it break inside and was causing him some trouble until he found it and replaced the plug. When you unplug it just use a multi meter to test the two pins to measure the purge solenoids resistance it should be quite low maybe 5-15ohms. If high resistance, open circuit or nearly 0 then it faulty for sure. The plug will likely be negatively switched so with ignition on you can test the 12v supply is present if you use test between one of the pins and a ground/engine block. (This will generate a p0441 code so expect that and clear it once plug is reconnected and cycle ignition key on off on first) The plug ground will be via the dme so testing that to engine block/ground won't give you anything tangible I don't think. If you don't find anything unusual buzz the solenoid out using two pieces of wire connected to the + battery jump point on the engine bay right side under the beauty cover. Note the positive and negative pin on the purge solenoid by knowing the + wire on the plug and which pin it goes on to.
  10. Engine running all connected ok, then switch off engine. Then pump brake pedal, count the pumps before it goes hard? Then press and hold the brake pedal hard and start the engine, the pedal should depress straight away. The results of this test may give a indication how big the leak is, but it's not really going to help you find it.
  11. p2401 is the evap detection pump circuit low P0448 is evap vent valve short circuit I would be checking the vent valve first and the wiring, it is probably shorted and knackered and likely causing the p2401 code as a result. Fix this first the clear all faults, take for drive and see how it also affects the p0300 codes as well. Don't rule out the coils yet if they are old, even though they look OK. How many miles you done?
  12. I have suspected an ECU or related wiring issue but as you said very hard to find a bad connector. I've had the Ecu out and open. Nothing obvious and connector and plug looked in decent shape. Whats the ideal ecu voltage (straight 5v?) and does anyone know where to look for the specific ECU voltage group? I'm using the ......ahem...... Vcds vagcom so label files not available to tell me all the group names I'm looking at. Need to buy duremetrics I know, would make life easier in these situations but that don't work on the Audi. I Will invest soon.
  13. Got any pics? I remember I had some red with black strip wire which looked a bit suspect and thick black wires with the factory crimp exposed but nothing was wet or corroded or broken and I did a neat wrap and didn't think about it again really. Considering its a hot running issue it's not concurrent with a wiring problem on a loom inside the car.
  14. Found this interesting case of running issues caused by oil viscosity too thin when engine is hot resulting is incorrect hydraulic tappet lift. Make me wonder if my hot engine stutter hesitation could be caused by the 10w40 oil simply not being thick enough? Maybe having an effect on the variocam change as well? This may in fact point towards a less than optimum oil pressure (tiring pump maybe) which the thicker oil would help I guess as well. Anybody have any experience of oil thickness causing running issues? I'm due oil change in the near future and will try a 10w60 or 10w50 depending on what I can find here.