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lewisweller last won the day on November 6

lewisweller had the most liked content!


About lewisweller

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  1. I've had the battery disconnected many times and didn't need any code for the radio 2006 ctt. I wouldn't stress about it!
  2. Can't remember ever going into the door Electrica module.
  3. Where are you reading 13.7v from? I see 5.2v stated as ch1. Looks normal for PWM. https://www.tlxtech.com/understanding-solenoids/theory-operation/pwm-solenoid-theory The voltage is on/off, hence 0v up to ??v is seen. So this shows your valve is open about 70%. I don't think this proves the valve is mechanically working correctly. But electrically it is looking normal. Bit of carb cleaner squirted in the open end whilst it's operating might free up a potential gummy blockage? Or from the back side pipe which means some removal required. Or spend 100 bucks on a new purge valve to find out if you wasted 100 bucks. Oh you should test the valve when the code is present and whilst it's on test reset the code and see what happens ! Init.
  4. Check the wiring to the purge valve. Maybe getting crispy. You confirmed the purge valves works but it's very likely the valve can work but not properly or intermittently. Also that check valve you repaired, is it possible it is getting stuck open or closed ? I would be seriously looking at the purge valve as when you clear the code only something electrical can work again on command ie the purge valve itself.
  5. Yes pipe 4 is the venturi pipe, it creates vacuum for the brake booster by allowing manifold pressure to bleed off and back around to the connector located in the Y pipe in front of the throttle. This air flow even though it's positive pressure cleverly creates a vacuum in the other tube which Tees into another pipe linked to the vac pump and around to the booster. As the air in the system is not lost this doesn't affect the MAF measurements. The vacuum pump is therefore afforded a rest. When your at idle and pump the brake pedal repeatedly you can hear the vac pump kick in as the venturi pipe isn't able to create enough vacuum at idle if your pumping the pedal. This is how to test the vac pump works. And also the engine off, brake pedal pumped until hard and held down, then engine on, pedal should drop as vac in booster increases. So by blowing or sucking pipe 4 I think it is correct it is open into the manifold.
  6. Yeah flow through that valve 25 or more like lack of it, seems to point to the code accurately.
  7. Part numbers attached picture is items 14 and 25 for the valve you have to buy the whole pipe section. Rolls eyes. These one way valves ( just noticed they have arrows on them!) are normally open or flap around sort of open and require boost pressure from the manifold side to close properly or vaccum to open properly. Get your head round that! I think during idle vacuum 25 is sucked open and draw through vented tank fumes via the purge valve if it's open. Then when you're on acceleration the boost pressure closes 25 and 14 is actually sucked open via the turbo intake pipe where it's connects to. So the simple test is to suck hard on the disconnected open end of the pipe(s) as per your picture and they should be closed.
  8. Looks like this tyre was fitted on the rear and it's been toeing in for a while hence the dragging of rubber marks seen in the last picture. I've seen worse!
  9. Mike I replaced these and you don't need to remove the valve cover or sensor or anything. Buy the seal part number 4 from Porsche not too expensive! Don't say that often do we! Then remove plastic cover and disconnect electrical connector. Use a wide strong flat blade screw drivers to deform the old seal enough to pull it up and out. Be careful not to crack or scratch the chappy plastic valve cover recess. Wipe Clean all surfaces. I added a smear of red high temp gasket sealer to my new seal outer edge to be sure it would seal nicely and slid it in and home with a socket sat on top and a gentle tap. Job takes about 10 minutes per side. Piece of p*ss. Mine were dribbling and weeping a bit of oil so that's why I did it and I thought it may also be a vacuum leak so double whammy Fix.
  10. Have drained you drivers side intercooler ?
  11. It won't do either. It only operates the first 20sexond of a cold start . After that it's completely unused.
  12. Block it off and forget about it.
  13. Others had this and turned out to be a battery issue. I would check the battery is OK 12.6v with engine off is ideal and also the a charging system (13.8-14.2v is ideal) is OK first.
  14. Thomas I had the same issue the valve is stuck open and allows hot exhaust to pump back into the pipe and into the air pump. Use a 1/2-3/4" GI plug can't remember the exact size (Pic attached)and jubilee clip to close the pipe and forget about it. Pulsing sound will be gone as well. The valve part no 10 is not electronic, its mechanical only, it's spring loaded and the air pump opens the valve against the spring pressure. You can replace the valve but it is extremely difficult to access.