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lewisweller last won the day on September 13

lewisweller had the most liked content!


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  1. You may be good to go then. I thought you had cleared the psm code and it returned. Good luck and enjoy.
  2. Psm light on probably means despite fixing the major leak in the vacuum system ( cracked pipe) you still have a small leak, most likely in the cracked pipe Fix. Do this test, run engine and switch off, pump brake pedal and count the pumps until it goes hard hence the brake booster assistance is gone because the vacuum used up by the pumping. Then hold the brake pedal down and start the engine, you will feel the pedal get softer and you are able to depress it further as vacuum is built up, approximately how far did your pedal move down when you started the engine? How many pumps did it take before pedal was hard when you switched engine off? It's pretty much a guarantee that a vacuum leak is the cause of the psm light.
  3. Before you go wasting any money disconnect your battery and then remove the throttle body and clean it with some solvent cleaner or pure alcohol and a soft cloth. Reinstall throttle, check plug pins are clean and not damaged and reconnect. Make sure all vacuum pipes underneath are connected and not resting near the water pump pulley which could cause rubbing and damage. Reconnect your battery, switch ignition to on but don't start engine and don't touch accelerator pedal. After 2 minutes switch off ignition. Switch ignition back on and plug in your code reader, clear all codes and then turn off ignition. Turn on ignition and start car, don't touch accelerator. Let it idle for 5 mins. If car feels ok go for short drive near home, after drive check codes. If codes for throttle are still there do a throttle body alignment with your scanner. If the scanner doesn't have the capability to do it then follow this, Ignition off Ignition on Press accelerator to the floor and hold for 30seconds Accelerator off and ignition off Ignition on don't touch anything for 2 minutes Ignition off Ignition on wait 2 minute and start engine don't touch accelerator let idle for 5 mins Clear codes and test drive again. Check codes are gone and didn't return. It's very unlikely that by bad luck the throttle body is somehow broken by just unplugging it! Report back how it goes.
  4. Common fault. Many have fixed this with some jb weld or epoxy. This pipe is for the brake booster vacuum part of 13 to 14 I believe so now you know why your getting the codes and weird Braking issues. If you search this forum you'll find others who have diy fixed this before.
  5. The blower can be removed cleaned up and lubricated and reinstalled to alleviate that issue or you can replace with new. Removal of glove box is required. Pelican has a diy for that. Oil level measure when engine has been resting for 10 mins, hot and cold level will vary alittle but not a lot. Keeping oil between 1/2 and 3/4 is ideal.
  6. The pcv return is piped onto the driver side bank 2 turbo so seeing oil on the right side only stands to reason. Over filling won't help and is ill advised, but it seems some oil seen in the right side and in the Y pipe intake etc is normal for these aging engines. Pull off the bottom intercooler hose and drain that if you want to some more oil! Porsche apparently tell customer draining the oil from the intercooler is a normal practice every 40,000 km or something.
  7. Yeah I would try just checking first the plug is not wet or corroded. Especially after it only occurred after Rain.
  8. This may help https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/50725-cayenne-2009/?tab=comments#comment-283829
  9. Its not overheating, it is designed to open fully at 87oC and the fan also cuts in to maintain that temperature from rising and invariably drops the temp back to 80oC fairly quickly. As I said stuck open is not a big issue, stuck closed is!
  10. I would say the rise is normal but the drop to 60oC identifies the thermostat is stuck open as the engine temperature should be maintained at 80oC all the time and not less. I would hazard a guess your engine takes a long time to warm up? Classic stuck open thermostat symptom. The thermostat is designed to open partially at 83oC I believe and fully open at 87oC. The dash gauges is also not very accurate! If you have the AC on the temperature is maintained more strictly from rising as the fans are already running. If the AC is off the engine coolant will rise to around 87oC then fall back to 80oC in a cyclic manner. As long as it doesn't over heat I wouldn't worry about it.
  11. This is number 1 Bull****. Search YouTube for that inside joke. In your previous post you said about changing both pumps but you didn't go ahead with it I'm assuming? Unfortunate, it's probably the only Fix you needed. It was also the #1 Likely problem I posted in my reply, left fuel pump. Anyhow we are all wise after the fact. The pumps can have a tenancy to test ok and still fail, a real b*tch to diagnose and a brave punt to replace even when the testing shows otherwise, so don't beat yourself or the mechanic up too much. The reason behind this is to do with fuel heating, (its also the reason why Porsche doesn't run both pumps all the time and only if required) the pumps get hot and the fuel is quiet warm as well as a result and from external sources also, when the tank level drops the heat increases and an intermittent pump fault can expose itself briefly. When you fill up, more fuel equals cooler temps and the pump might seem ok. I would be not be keeping the new DME, swap in your original dme and return new unnecessary dme to the stealership with a big middle finger and let it linger. After all hope your fixed and back on the road albeit a bit lighter in the wallet.
  12. If your on 20's without any issues I wouldn't waste your money. Get a good set of ngk plugs like Bkr7eix and save the coil money for some other future maintenance or repairs.
  13. Short circuit of wiring to pump or the pump internally is shorted and needs to be replaced. I suppose a bad connection could also blow the fuse but a wiring short or pump integral short is much more likely.
  14. Easy test is to clamp the pipe from the evap purge valve that goes to the intake via a T fitting underneath the intake Y pipe. That will instantly identify the evap purge is faulty. The code should be p0441 I think if you scan the car.
  15. Seems like something common to this bank, so my thinking is knock sensor bank 2 or wiring like the earth or signal of the coils loom on bank 2. You can easily probe the coils from the rear and check for +12v and earth. There is four pins but I haven't got the pin info to hand. One is a feed back to the Ecu on how the coil is performing. I also don't think it is cam related and the maf is not used for idle so if misfires are at idle as well forget the maf sensors for now.