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About lewisweller

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    AUDI A4 B8.5 3.0T S-LINE Revo Tuned stage 1+ 400+bhp 550nm torque
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  1. Set suspension to max height and switch off regulation and there is enough room to go under just, but to be comfortable jack it up a bit as well and use jack stand for safety. Happy new year
  2. Check the flex disc and Propshaft centre bearing for movement.
  3. Thomas ours is easier to do as there is no hpfp or harness in the way of the sensor plug harness on the 03-06 ctt. The locations are the same as the diy posted and it helps to have a friend in my case the wife work from the top and you work from underneath, disconnect from top and bottom and pull old one out from bottom. Fit new sensor by dropping it from the top down with you waiting at the bottom to grab it and fit. Piece of cake really compared to other nightmare repairs ie alternator.......
  4. Thick Oil additive Lucas for example and auction it. That's what some independent garages do as well but sell to private buyers offering no warranty. Scandalous I know. At least in auction buyers tend to be in the trade and know the risks the price reflects this. Not the most upstanding course of action but let's face it every car at an auction is there for a reason.
  5. Check for vacuum leaks. Lots of helpful stuff here. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche_Cayenne_Tech.htm
  6. Seeing around 5k for that block and pistons plus another 2-3k at least for the work and consumables, head bolts, maybe new valves costing a fortune, gaskets, oring seals vac pipes surely brittle and break, fluids I'm screaming noooooooo. It will cost more than you expect I did double head gasket and spent 6k! The part list just keep growing. Having bought a 2006 ctt and then having to spend the best part of 7,000 on repairs over 14months I would say don't do it. Your still left with a car of no additional value and your be wishing you sold it and moved on long ago when the next big expensive repair is required. For example: front diff, transfer case, rear diff, steering column failure and control module, steering rack seals, alternator, AC compressor, DME failure, water leaks Turbo T, pipes under intake manifold, any combo of pumps, sensors etc failure and diagnostics to fix. This is excluding normal servicing, brakes, Tyres etc All costing 1,000's to fix. Stick it in an auction and spend your hard earned dollar on a less deep money pit.
  7. Wizard its only been 15 miles you could still be on to something with the Octane ......lol. I've been so wrong many times .......it's all good. Merry Christmas guys all the best.
  8. I think the crank code is triggered as a result of the bad running. My bet is the hpfp is the real issue here. It's expensive I know, so understand your hoping its the crank sensor at 70 bucks instead. I hope I'm wrong and your right for your wallets sake. Good luck.
  9. Classic hpfp symptoms, software will show the pressures which identify the specified and actual, this will tell the story more accurately. Fuel filter can be blocked but less likely. Low pressure fuel pressure regulator and low pressure fuel pump (left primary) can also cause long cranking and struggling to rev up. Don't waste money on parts until you confirm the fault.
  10. The SAI pumps themselves are prone to impellor damage and sooting up with dirty exhaust Gases that can leak past the check valve. Could be worth getting a t40 screwdriver and whipping off the SAI and opening them up to check inside and give them a good clean. There is a foam filter also which could be clogged too. Easy diy job will take you an hour remove clean and refit both.
  11. Go see Chad at Motor MEC in Al Quoz and get him to recode the steering angle sensor with his PIWIS tester. Seems the 2004 model year is a pain in the *** for disconnecting battery issue after. I disconnected my battery on 2006ctt about 30times in a year and only had to drive forward a few meters and all dash lights went off. No fault codes remained.
  12. Yeah bit tricky to get a nice bead around the pipes to block orifice recess area. I think on the pipe only put small amount of Vaseline on the oring so it slides in easy and a wide bead of smeared RTV silicon behind the oring on the pipe itself. Slide the pipe in all the way and then pack the RTV into the gap between pipe and orifice. This maybe be more difficult than it seems access wise. I did think maybe the flat face inside the orifice could be smeared with RTV before inserting the pipe but not sure it that will work well or not. I remember on mine under the manifold one of the pipes had a hard resin type sealer on it, which worked but wasn't the oem type approach and would never come apart again I doubt. Head gaskets symptoms loss of coolant and overheating at idle, if you rev the engine it will cool down to normal and the cycle repeats. Was blown between cyclinder 2-3. Torque seal, yes exactly how it happens dry crusty then seal is deteriorated and leaks. Good luck.
  13. Intake air leak for sure. Check the Y pipe and it's fitting underneath pipe 4, check the connecting pipes jubilee clamps are tight, check the smaller pipes connected to the throttle assembly are all connect properly. The pipes are prone to splitting also. Check 25, 14, 13, 5, 4 oring 9 can leak but don't make sense that it would assuming they didn't remove it, check 24 directly under the throttle assembly is not rubbing against your water pump pulley. If your still stuck smoke test your intake. Search my posts about that. Simple home made smoker.
  14. Wow bad luck my friend. Without trying to be too negative one of the problems if coolant leaks and drains via the bell housing is the torque convertor seal will started to leak transmission fluid. An engine out job is the Fix. Ask me how I know and ask me how many 1000,s I spent on my 06 ctt before giving up and selling it on before I had even more repairs. (The major ones ....Head gaskets, alternator, battery x3, power steering rack end seal leaked all fluid whilst cornering, kessy module, torque convertor seal all in one year). Read all my posts if you want to get depressed. Unless you have a lot of money and a spare car to use whilst this is in the garage frequently, I would get this coolant pipe fixed and sell it on. If the surfaces are pitted the oring won't seal. If you remove material you will need thicker orings possibly. Use this RTV silicon to seal the gap between aluminum parts but don't get it on the oring. Suggest you remove and reinstall all those new pipes and orings whilst it is all apart again. https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra-series-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-grey-rigid-high-torque-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-2/
  15. Hitachi should be what's already fitted and yes doesn't required any modifications and is small enough to fit though the tight space you will have to turn and drop it though. Top tip:- the way you take it out remember the angle and position so when you put in the new one it goes in easy. The other brand Delphi is a total b * tch to install or remove as it's bigger! Never again .............

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