Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Octane4evr

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    32

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Octane4evr

  1. Octane4evr
    Thanks Kdgiv, Was there a kit you bought for the Powerflex bushings or did you buy them one-by-one? Also, did you put new control arms in with rubber bushings or did you retrofit them with Powerflex bushings? Thanks!
  2. Octane4evr
    Thanks for the response. This is exactly the look I'm going for. Are your wheels 18" or 19"? Thanks for the DIY!
  3. Octane4evr
    I'm having a similar issue. 2003 911 C4S Alarm code 47 - Control locking synchronization Symptoms: Double beep of horn on lock with keyfob Red light on dash door lock button Double beep when dash door lock button is pressed Passenger door window does not go down when either interior or exterior handle is pulled Both doors lock/unlock with the keyfob Both doors lock/unlock with the key Passenger door lock mechanism???
  4. Octane4evr
    I have a 2003 C4S with just over 100k miles and it appears to have the original shocks. I'm wanting to go with a lowered suspension, planning on H&R's with Bilstein B8's. My question is what are all of the other components that need to be changed to accommodate the lowered suspension, drop links & etc. I'm also interested in a list of wear the components that should be changed at this mileage so I don't have to go back in there for a long time. If someone's gone down this path I'd very much appreciate your impressions of the ride quality. This is my daily driver in the Seattle area and our roads are pretty rough. I don't want something that will shake loose my fillings. Thanks for the help!
  5. Octane4evr
    You might want to throw a water pump and surge tank in while you're in there and a new belt and tensioner for good measure. My 2003 C4S had a very heavy clutch pedal when I bought it a year ago at 80k. Turned out that the helper spring, slave cylinder and hose were bad as well. Don't know about the grinding on downshift, I've not had that issue. Keep the maintenance/wear parts up to snuff and you'll really enjoy this car. Best of luck!
  6. Octane4evr
    If the seals for the crankcase are leaking would I see oil leaks? This engine uses almost no oil, about one quart per 6000 miles.
  7. Octane4evr
    Drove with the MAF unplugged all the way home ~45 minutes. No noticeable difference in idle after the drive. The comment from Porschetech3 on the crankcase vacuum being too low has me wondering about the seals you mentioned or anything else that would cause reduced vacuum in the crankcase. Other than the seals you mentioned, should I check anything else when I have it on the lift for the oil change? Also, my independent Porsche shop expressed a concern about lifters sticking causing this issue. Any thoughts on that?
  8. Octane4evr
    I did clean the MAF with CRC's product designed for that purpose, no change. I'll pull the plug on the MAF and see what happens. Any issue in driving it for a long distance without the MAF connected or should this just be a short test? I did feel the rough idle when the data shows the variation. I'm due an oil change, planning that for next week. I'll check the Variocam+ and intake valve lift solenoid seals. In reading on this in other threads there was some success others have had by changing the IMS and cam chain tensioners. Any thoughts on doing this preemptively? Porschetech3, I tested this with a home made manometer, see the picture attached for the principle I used to create it, mine's just a length of clear tubing on a piece of plywood but inches of water is inches of water. I've heard all kinds of things about the AOS and faults with it but I can't seem to find a diagram showing where it is and where all the various hoses are and how to access. Any help would be appreciated. I'm going to get my local shop to do a leak down test, hopefully next week. Thanks for all the help!
  9. Octane4evr
    Thanks for the great info and advice. I've attached two log files, one for a full trip home of over an hour and one of a couple of minutes of idle after the drive. The rough running values for several of the cylinders are higher than you're seeing on yours. This time it's not #2 though. I have a call into my shop, I recall they did a compression check when they did the plugs and coils. Not sure about a leak down. I'll post that info when I get it. Idle after 1 hr drive.xlsx Full trip.xlsx
  10. Octane4evr
    FIRING ORDER!!! Now I understand why the column order was wacky - Thanks! I did swap the column order, not just the labels. It took me a few minutes to get the Durametric set up so the car was warm when I started logging the data. I'll create a log file on the way home tonight and add coolant temp to the list and post the results. I see the same thing on cylinder 2 but I wasn't sure what the acceptable range actually is. I'm not sure how a leak down test is accomplished, is that something a shop would need to do?
  11. Octane4evr
    Here's an updated file with the data as numbers instead of text so it can be plotted.2017_11_11_15_41_50_UW_TRIP - Data.xls
  12. Octane4evr
    Over the past couple of weeks I've checked the cam deviation values when the engine is fully warm, they change only slightly one varies from 1.63 to 1.75 degrees and the other from 0.00 to 0.03. They are steady at whatever value they have for that trip throughout the RPM range. The plugs and coils are only about 4000 miles old. The symptoms were present before they were changed. There are no misfires logged on any cylinder during idle or at cruise. I've attached a log file of a recent trip logging everything I could think of and Ahsai's suggestions. The other thing I checked was the crankcase vacuum at idle. It is 2.5 inches of water. I also found another thread where Ahsai and JFP helped discover that the problem that a 986 owner was having was the MAF. JFP has already suggested this might be and MAF problem. I'm willing to change it out depending on your confidence level after seeing the data. Is there any way to check for a stuck lifter? Thanks for all the help!!! 2017_11_11_15_41_50_UW_TRIP_KEEGAN.xls
  13. Octane4evr
    On the topic of going to coilovers... Has anyone used the BC Racing BR Series Coilovers? Seem like a bargain for getting all the adjustment you need to get the right ride height.
  14. Octane4evr
    Cleaned and did the TB/Idle reset. No effect on the problem. No Idle control valve on the 2003 engine. Checked around for a vacuum leak. Moved around the Oil Tube to see if there was a leak, no change in engine performance. This time when pulling the oil cap off the engine RPM dropped and got very rough, I may not have had it fully warm last time. I've attached the Durametric screen showing cam deviation, two separate tests. They aren't the same on both sides, not sure what they should be though. When I activate the "valve lift control banks 1 and 2" (There are two of them listed with the same name) the engine shuts off immediately.
  15. Octane4evr
    It really does feel like a vacuum leak. I'm more familiar with small block V-8's and this is a lot like it feels when the carb isn't fully sealed to the intake manifold or there's some other vacuum leak. I'll clean the TB, I'm not sure the 2003 has an Idle Control Valve, as you suggest and check for disconnected tubes/cracks in the oil filler. Thanks for the help.
  16. Octane4evr
    So, I finally got a Durametric so I can test the MAF. I plotted MAV and Idle speed in the image below. As you can see, the curves lay right over the top of each other, as you'd expect. What I don't know is if this variation is normal. I cleaned the MAF with CRC's specialty cleaner. No effect. I pulled the oil cap off with engine idling, slight increase in engine RPM, no increase in the shudder feel. Any ideas?
  17. Octane4evr
    I have a 2003 C4S with the X51 package that I purchased last November. I use the car as my daily driver so I've put about 11k on it since purchasing. The engine has always run a bit rough, like an old V8 with a bigger cam than stock. Kind of a smooth - shudder - shudder - smooth cadence. The motor pulls hard but I feel the shudder even free rev-ing the engine and trying to hold a steady RPM. At idle, when it's doing the shudder thing, the RPM's jump imperceptibly on the tach but I can see them bounce through the OBD reader. The plugs and coils have been replaced for other reasons and I've used Liqui-Moly injector and valve cleaner several times with no effect. There are no codes in the ECU, no misfire or cam or injector codes at all. My local Indy repair shop thinks it may be the vario-cam not fully disengaging. Oil's been changed twice in my ownership but I've not used any lubrication modifier or anything like Sea-Foam to mess with the oil. Any ideas? The vario-cam thing seems likely but before I spend that kind of time or cash I'd like to be sure.
  18. Octane4evr
    I have a similar issue with the passenger door. Seems to only happen when it's hot (Seattle hot, over 70). The window does not move at all and the red light is continually on for the door lock switch on the dash. Seems weird that it's only when it's warm. Window goes up and down. I've re-trained the window stops but it doesn't help. I'm thinking it's the door lock actuator. Ideas? Toddmac12, where did you get the good used part for $60?
  19. Octane4evr
    FYI, a P12 Nitrile O-Ring works great!
  20. Octane4evr
    No third radiator on my C4S. Any idea on where to find the specs for the O-ring?
  21. Octane4evr
    When I went out to the garage this morning I saw a puddle in front of the left front wheel. I thought I had a bad radiator but when I got in and took a look it appears that the leak is coming at the connection between the breather tube and the radiator, check out the picture. So, my question is this; is this a bad radiator or a bad breather hose? Thanks!
  22. Octane4evr
    Porschedane, that explains the electric brake knob under the dash! Ahsai, thanks for the info! I won't worry about it.
  23. Octane4evr
    It appears that the PO has done some electrical work on my 2003 C4S. Any idea what this connector might be for? I found it when I removed the air box and was looking at the wiring for the passenger side O2 sensors which were throwing a code. Looks like an amateur hack for sure and doesn't match Porsche style connectors. The wires go into the factory harness. Any help would be appreciated.
  24. Octane4evr
    Reviving an old thread here. I'm replacing the coils in my 2003 C4S and I'm seeing this part number as the correct part on Sunset: 997 602 104 00. Is it true that Beru are the OEM parts? Are any aftermarket coils worth the $ savings over original Porsche parts?
  25. Octane4evr
    Thanks for the pictures, I see what you mean. What did you use to get the aluminum and other parts so clean?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.