Gnochi

Follow-on question for this: 1. my regulator is broken in the down position, which means I can’t access the front of the regulator mounting bolt. The lower nut holding the window is basically inaccessible; it’s a very tight gap and because of the rubber and such I can’t get an angle on the nut. The regulator is sufficiently stuck that I can’t pull the window up by hand. Any pointers? 2. I lost a wrench down the side of the body and it seems to have gone under the rear seats. Any pointers on getting it back?

Good news: the damaged headlight module arrived this past week and I was able to disassemble it today. For some reason about half of the pictures I took couldn't attach here, so I made an album on imgur. Bad news: the rainbow-shaped piece that looked pretty flat is bowed towards the vehicle rear, and will be much harder to replace than I had hoped. I'd like to control the LED position and orientation, so I'll likely end up with a generally more complicated part, instead of starting with a flat piece of sheet metal and bending it to fit (and adding some semblance of heat sinking). I also have the option of making a relatively flat piece of sheet metal, mounting the LEDs to it, and drilling a few holes in said rainbow that can fit a 10x10mm square led module + lens. Aesthetically that doesn't interest me, though. Finally, I'm exploring a few options on where to put the driver module and how to make the electrical connection in the body. It looks like there *might* be a pin free in the floating electrical connector between the headlight units and the body. @Loren do you by any chance have a 2003 bixenon and halogen wiring diagram? Also, do you happen to know the part numbers for the crimped pin and socket in the headlight- and body-side electrical connection?

I hate to necro something after 6 years, but Sandy's guide misses a couple things for some combination of 996.2, cabriolet, and bixenon. There isn't a connector on vehicle-right of the trunk There is a giant Bosch box labeled "Leuchtweitenregulierung" (aka headlight angle adjustment control) Don't be alarmed: the wire to splice to is still the black with green stripe, but you'll need to unwrap enough of the wiring harness to pull said wire away from the bundle sufficiently to use your splicing method of choice.

Hi all, I'm in the midst of designing a DRL setup for my 996.2 (which is a topic I recognize has been done to death). That said, I'm not a fan of LED light bars, and while I don't mind halos, this is a Porsche, not a BMW. Therefore, I'm taking inspiration from the Four Point Principle. I'm using 8x total Luxeon Star 10mm square LED blocks, neutral white, with 10mm square Carclo 10415 elliptical-pattern lenses, and a 350mA FlexBlock on each side. DRLs should be on the order of 400 lumen per side and 1500Cd at the center, so I'll be using slightly lower currents than the LEDs are made for. As soon as I get dimensions 1,2,3 in the attached image, or even better a damaged 996.2 headlight unit, I'll figure out heat sinking, but it will be relatively unimportant at 4W per side, 150C maximum junction temperature, and 100F approximate steady state temperature insight the HID housing (per Pedro's Garage). As far as wiring goes, here are my requirements: DRLs turn on with the engine DRLs turn off with the low beams The low beams can be turned on whether the engine is on or not. There are several ways to do this, of course, and I think I've picked the easiest: 1x Bosch relay with both NC and NO pins, connecting to 1x 928-610-511-00 relay carrier added to an open spot in the relay block Pin 30 connects to a fuse tap at A6 - Seat heater (switched on with ignition) Pin 85 connects to any conveniently-located bolt to chassis, possibly in the fuse box. TBD. Pin 86 connects to a fuse tap at A9 - Low Beam Right (switched on with headlights) Pin 87a is wired to the left and right FlexBlocks in parallel. Pin 87 is not necessary The relays I have take about 150mA to switch, which *shouldn't* noticeably affect the low beams, but does put additional stress on the headlight switch. If that causes problems I might need to do the following instead: 2x Bosch relays with NC/NO pins Pin 30-1 connects to A6 Pin 30-2 connects to D5 - Cigar lighter (always on) 85-1 splices into 85-2, connected to chassis ground 86-1 splices into 86-2, interrupting the YE/WH wire running from the light selector stalk before it splits to go to A9/A10/Canada DRL block 87A-1 is wired to left and right FlexBlocks as above 87-2 is wired to the other side of the YE/WH split Thoughts? Anyone have input on headlight switch reliability or wiring plans?