Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Crush
-
Posts
6 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Crush's Achievements
Member (1/1)
0
Reputation
-
As a follow up. I finally got around to fixing this after two near accidents where a horn would have been very nice to have. Anyway, the issue was the brown wire where it met the connector. You guys were spot on. The insulation was crimped tight to the connector but the wire was broken inside the insulation. I wanted to pull out all the wires out of the clock spring to check with an ohmmeter but that keyed connector does NOT come out. It just looks like it does. Just FYI. Anyway I spiced in a new connector with a little bit thicker wire, with a little more slack, all soldered of course. Works like a charm. Thanks for all the input!!! Much appreciated!!! Beep beep. Clyde
-
I did it have it apart. Brown wire looks fine. If it is broken inside the insulation I'd be surprised because it felt fine. When I get a chance I'll take the wire out and check with ohmmeter.
-
I understand and completely agree. With the Ohmmeter you have to connect to both ends to create the circuit. I don't know what one side sI hould connect to because the wiring goes into the steering column :) I may just try to unclip the keyed connector to just check the 3 inch wire but I'm not sure how it unsnaps.
-
So maybe one end of the ohmmeter goes to the wire end and the other goes where? Maybe just the frame of car, since it's ground? Or is there another point I should connect to? I do agree with you that the issue points to the ground wire but I didn't feel a break in it when I took a look. I wouldn't mind just taking out the whole wiring piece but I'm not sure how to unsnap the keyed connector in the column. I don't want to force anything and break it.
-
Loren, I did search before I posted and the resolution that resolved it for the other posters was a faulty ground wire in the steering wheel. I checked the ground wire in the steering wheel and it looks good. No break. So I'm kind of stumped. Clyde
-
I have a 2001 Boxster S and the horn does not work when the key is turned in the ignition (car doesn't have to be started). If the key is out, the horns work fine. If the key is inserted, the horns work as long as you don't turn the key to the right. I've read the great threads here and removed the air bag and checked the ground wires and they look good, no damage that I can tell. I'm thinking the relay maybe? Anybody have any insight?