Corvetteboy6988

Thanks for the feedback, I will be doing the front sway bar endlinks here in a day or so, so I will know if its that. Are you suggestion the ones by the front bumper, the 2 large sway bar bushings that are connect to the frame, was a problem you had? I will look at those tonight, they are hard to see without remove the belly pan, so didnt check them previously, although the little I can see of the outside end of them, the "look" ok. I have also pushed up on the stabilizar bar to see if there is excessive movement in them, and there isnt. Maybe Ill just do these as well, after the end links, as I have read one other mentioning these although they look good, can be bad, allowing the stablizer bar to hit the frame mount. Then, move on to the LCA's after those to things. When I disconnet the endlinks to change them, I will see how the bar bushing act when moving. yep, no whine or other noises from the front diff, just this bit of movement when I tug on them from under the car.

Ok, Ive read all the threads on front end clunking, so ive pryed on all the front bushings in the lower control arms, end links, upper control arms, even checked front subframe bolts. I know it could be upper strut mount as others have found, but no way to check. Everything seems ok for 60k on my 2005 CTT. Sway bar links felt the softest, so have new ones on order. But i cant get then to make noise yanking or prying. Also no looseness or play when i Jack up the front corners and do the 9 and 3 and 12 and 6 movements. I get the clunking and overall loose front end feeling most on washboard pavement, and bumps where the front unloads more than pushed up. Handing is fine, no noise when doing emergency lane changes. I do get a huge front end clunk thud when I jab the brakes at parking lot speeds. Went to pull out of a lot the other day, less than 5 mph and had to lock them up cause car peaked out, and front end felt like it was gonna fall out. To me that sounds like LCA rear bushing. However, tonight i crawled under started grabbing and moving parts as hard as I could by grabbing them with force, and the right side output shaft/ half shaft where it enters the front diff was making a clunk noise both in and out of the diff and up and down, more so up and down. Hub side is fine. Checked the drivers side, just clunk in and out, not up and down. I do notice more noise on the left side when driving over bumps. The play seems to be where the shaft enters the diff. Its not a lot, but i can shake it as if going over washboard roads and it makes a clunky noise. I have no grinding or bearing/diff noise caused by rotation or with speed. Changed the front diff oil at 50k. Sorry, that was really long. So, should there be some play where the front cv shafts exit the front diff? Is this normal? Am I stretching to much here and should just replace my end links, then LCA's and go from there? Thanks

I am a newer owner (since September 2017) of a 2005 Cayenne Turbo with 47,000 miles, and over the last few days, I have noticed when in "normal" ride height, the front appears to be sitting a bit lower than normal, measured about 1/2 lower, evenly both fronts, so there is a rake to it unlike being pretty even up to this point since owning it. I did the measurements from the frame points to the ground, and the front seems within spec, about 1mm on the low side for RF and LF, and the rears are on the high side, at the upper limit of the +/-10mm, so this adds up to about the 0.5" I have noticed. I drove it on a 45 minute trip the other day, got home, and it seem normal (front was up again, about -.5" higher from a quick measurement from wheel center to fender, about 20.25"- so the correct relationship front to rear, rear measure about the same 20.25"). leaving for work this morning, the front, both sides, are back down the 0.5" - measuring about 19.6). I dont hear any leaking, no errors, ran my icarscan and no errors, and it does move all the way through load level to spec terrain level without issue. It does seem that this unbalance front to rear with the front being lower is only when in normal ride height setting. Any ideas, thoughts? I was gonna try the icarscan suspension calibration, but have no idea how to use it, has anyone tried it yet on a 955? 2 things I did notice in the last couple days which seem odd. When opening a door the front air suspension did drop a few inches while the car was off, and sitting un started. And one day on the way home from work, at a stop light, same thing, the front dropped. Im assuming it dropped from the normal height to this ~0.5" lower front height. In both cases, the car was on a level surface, so not a result of hill/incline and it trying to level itself. Thanks for any insight!

Thanks lewisweller, I have seen some of your posts. Fortunately the dealer gives me a loaner car, but still it's not fun to keep going through this. I keep rinsing with hot water from my garage house the top of the motor till i see it run out the bellhousing the 2 times now that out leaked. It sounds like its when the coolant sits in there, keeps running down and building up, heats and dries forming crusties that destroys the torque pump seal, I hope. What happened with the head gaskets on yours, what symptoms did you have, and what caused it? I thought head gaskets failing on these was rare? So where should i put the rtv? I was gonna use "the right stuff" but ill compare to your suggestion, still wasnt sure where to put, cause i did see you don't want it on the orings.

Hello all, I purchased my first Porsche, a 2005 Cayenne Turbo in Sep. has 44000 miles and mechanically is in great shape, no issues. With the help of this forum I budgeted to replace the coolant pipes with the upgraded alumn ones after purchase. I called around for pricing, went to a local ex porsche dealer who still has their master tech, and got them replaced. This was done proactively as the original plastic pipes were not leaking. About 500 miles later, lost a good chunk of coolant, out the bellhousing weep holes, the very thing i was trying to avoid. Dealer said pressure tested and leaking where main coolant pipe enters the block. The after market pipes orings appeared flat instead of round after removal, I sent the pipe back to the manufacturer, and they indicated the orings where softer than they should have been. So, plan was to replace with OE porsche pipe and orings so did that. All other pipes where fine, even the main couple at back distribution bank. 500 or so miles later, small drip or 2 out the bellhousing, andc the smell of coolant. Back at the dealer currently, and leaking again at the main pipe and the double orings where it enters the block, not as bad this time. The tech cleaned the mating surface in the thermostat housing good, but he mentioned it was a bit rough and pitted from corrosion and thinks that's the cause for the leak. Any ideas, what else can we try, is there something we might be doing wrong. Everyone is saying this is the first tune this had happened. Ive read other posts of pine hole leaks due to bad castings, or loose clamps, etc. But not this. Should we use rtv or an anerobic gasket maker on the mating surface? The current plan is to fine polish the mating surface in the housing to eliminate the pits, I just don't want to remove too much material so using very fine grit wet sandpaper like 2000 or 3000, then we are gonna try the Hamburg Technic pipe from ECS tunning. I got the Porsche lube as well to use sparingly. That will happen this Monday. Also, why would it pass the pressure test once the job is done, then last for a while, then leak? Ive attached some pics. Looks like they damaged the right top side of the opening a bit by prying to remove the old pipes, but its way outside the oring area. I love this truck, but ive hardly even been able to enjoy it, and regretting being proactive but know in my heart it was the right thing to do. Sorry for the long post, but need done help. Btw, the dealer suggested possibly needing to replace the top of the block to correct this, wow.