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Sam Stevenson

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    Detroit Michigan
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 Porsche Boxster
  • Former cars
    1996 Volvo 960
    2003 Volkswagen Jetta GLI
    2017 Chevrolet Cruze
    2001 Porsche Boxster

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  1. Okay, I have really been struggling with this one. 2001 Porsche Boxster Base 106k Miles At idle, there is a grinding sound that goes on and off every second pretty consistently. I tried using a screwdriver to hear where this noise is coming from and I feel like it is coming from the alternator, but all of the pulleys seem fine. the alternator rotates just fine and there is no play in any of the pulleys at all. I even replaced all of the idler pulleys because they felt a little dry and had some minor bearing noise. I have just taken the alternator out to inspect it further, but I really cannot fault it. It definitely looks older, but the voltage regulator works just fine and there is no obvious play and it spins freely as far as I can tell. I have a new pulley to put on it, but have been struggling to get the old one off. Meanwhile, I can't shake the feeling that I am headed in the wrong direction. I was thinking about dropping off the alternator at a shop to have them put new bearings in and inspect the brushes just as a general tune-up, but I really would like my car to not sound like it is destroying itself at idle. Has anyone dealt with something similar before? Should I just put the alternator back in and keep looking for alternative solutions? The belt is the same one I bought the car with, but it looks flawless. I was going to replace it after I got all of the belt accessories sorted out.
  2. Okay, so I noticed my recently purchased 2001 porsche boxster 2.7L with 105k miles has a leak at the brake caliper. The leak looked small, but it was as if the bleed screw was draining fluid even when tight. I just purchased new screws since the threads were looking a little damaged on the removed screw. When I put the new screw in, it looks like the same problem exists. There is no leaking around the threads, but it is just letting fluid flow out of the nipple as if it isn't tightened at all. I toyed with the idea off putting some helicoil or tapping larger threads, but I don't think I would ever be able to get it close enough to make a good seal to prevent a leaking brake. Well, naturally I want this fixed. Looking at parts cost for a new set of brakes, I am not super excited to spend all the money it will take to get a new caliper so I look for some used parts and notice that there are a few complete sets of the boxster S brakes (painted red) from crashed boxsters on ebay that look pretty good for a fair price (~$600-700). This is appealing because finding a used passenger front caliper yielded few results that were less than $200. Would I be able to put the boxster S brakes on my boxster, or should I stick to an original part? Are the boxster S brakes better? Will the boxster S brakes require a few more replacement parts to fit on my car? Best, Sam
  3. Just in case you guys know anything. The relay and fuse for the convertible top are both okay and the handbrake switch appears to be working as it should. Windows will not go up.
  4. yes, I heard the throttle body working as well as I waiting with key on engine off, but I just kept trying it with the rough idle and it went away within 30 seconds of running (even if it stalled once) I got the new spark plugs in and they work fine. I used a block tester and found no exhaust gasses in my coolant. Overall has been a pretty great day. However, once I went to finally close the convertible top, it would not move. So there is my next project ? thanks for all your help guys! I also have a fuel pressure gauge that I will use because it can't hurt to know if there is anything wrong with fuel pressure.
  5. first of all, no question is dumb. I double checked and all the coil packs are plugging in correctly. I am back to square one. I am not sure what happened, but I tried to run it twice more today and the first time it stalled and the second time it idled okay (there is a little bit of unsteadiness that I will look into, but I am happy that it stays at about 800rpm now. I idled the car for about 15 minutes and let it get up to tempurature. It appears there is no problem with cooling (the tempurature was just above 180) and the block test did not change color. I did spend those 15 minutes checking around the vacuum hoses and didn't hear any hissing, but I didn't hear anything extremely bad. I do know that I still have the little filter at the bottom of the engine air filter (blocking cylinder 5) still off the car. I have a little ELM327 code reader that didn't detect any codes through the stalling multiple times and there is no check engine light, which I thought was very strange. I'll probably wait for the engine to cool and then try the new spark plugs again without unplugging the battery. It seemed like the throttle body needed to learn or something.
  6. None of the spark plugs look like they have anything out of the ordinary. I made sure to inspect the spark plugs carefully and there was nothing out of the ordinary. I wish I had a picture now, but I've never had problems after changing spark plugs I am already nearing the end of my budget for this project and I can't really afford a $300 tool right now. I have been able to check the codes in a very basic sense through this process, but ever since I removed the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body no codes have been set/pending. I did remove the battery when I was working on the ignition coils/throttle body.
  7. Just a little update I decided to change the spark plugs while I was waiting for the stuff to check out the coolant pressure. I also decided to rent a compression tester from autozone and test that while the plugs were out. So first the results of that cyl 1 - 148 cyl 2 - 142 cyl 3 - 145 cyl 4 - 142 cyl 5 - 150 cyl 6 - 130 I think the compression tester I borrowed might have been reading a little high, but I never checked because I don't have a compressor. Then I put the new spark plugs in and was careful to examine all of the ignition coils for cracks or tears (they actually look like they must have been replaced pretty recently). I then reinstalled everything and went to turn the engine on so that I could also use the block tester that I borrowed from autozone as well. The car started soon, but once I let off the key it started to idle very rough (as if it was running on 2-3 cylinders) and then it would stall. So far I have spent about 8 hours under the car removing the ignition coils again and double checking them for cracks and tears. I also reinstalled the old plugs and that didn't do anything. I checked the resistance of the terminals on all of the ignition coils and I didn't see any resistance across the primary coil and the third pin didn't show any shorting on any of the coils. Could this be related to my previous problems with rough idle/lean condition and I just made the short worse by moving the cables around and possibly opening up a bigger hole in the insulation somewhere? sorry to derail this thread from being about my engine being completely trashed... somehow I got myself in a situation where I need to fix a the car to get to a point where I can use the block tester. I forgot to mention that I removed and cleaned the throttle body (it makes a horrible whine when the car is on with engine off). There could be an intake leak from me not putting it on properly. I'll check that soon
  8. I tried renting a pressure leak tester and threaded adapter from a local O'reilly, but nothing fit over my coolant reservoir cap. Is there an adapter I can pick up for cheap? preferably something I could pick up locally so I don't have to wait to get this test done. I'm just getting anxious not being able to drive at all. I just ordered this part that claims to work. Let me know if anyone knows otherwise so I can cancel the order. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FIJZWEQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  9. Wouldn't I be able to notice that when I pull the spark plugs though? I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary on any of the 6 spark plugs.
  10. Okay, great. I just ordered one and some spark plugs since I already have the old ones out.
  11. I haven't been able to clear codes yet It is the 5 spd manual coolant cap is blue with part number 996.106.447.00 (I did notice a little bit of fluid here that I didn't remember before. I do think I tightened the cap pretty good though) Engine oil cap is as it should be. Got all the spark plugs out and they all look fine. From my prior experience this would indicate that there is no coolant getting into any of the combustion chamber. Since the smell is near the exhaust I'll check the coolant tank and remove the trunk carpeting and see.
  12. I made sure to check the water pump for sure. It seemed perfectly fine for me and I didn't notice any small coolant leaks when I looked underneath. I also had no problems with overheating, but I've only gotten the car to full operating temperature twice I just decided on a whim to double check the codes and I think I ended up adopting the codes that I found while researching. The actual codes on my car are P1126, P1128, P1130, and P1133
  13. I finally fulfilled my dream of owning a porsche. I got myself a pretty rough 2001 porsche boxster base. Unfortunately my current finances mean that owning a porsche and driving a porsche are still two seperate entities. It had the engine codes 1126, 1128, 1130, and 1133. The engine ran pretty rough until I cleaned the MAF sensor and now it seems to idle pretty smooth. (I did notice that as I ran the engine for ~10 minutes in between random repairs the idle seems to be a little shakier than I would like it to be) I also replaced all of the idle pulleys and put a new belt on. While testing the pulleys before sealing the engine away in its tomb, I noticed the exhaust had a very distinct sweet smell. I shut the engine off right away and got to looking around for some sort of coolant leak. I am about 3 hours into the search with no luck at all. there is some moisture up by the power steering pump filler cap that the previous owner said was a small spill while filling up the power steering fluid, but other than that the engine seems completely dry. I don't see the coolant level drop at all either. I have started pulling the plugs to see if the spark plugs are clean from water getting in the combustion chamber or something, but I would expect a fair bit of smoke if that was the case. I only got the drivers side spark plugs out so far and they look a little old, but none of them seem abnormal and they all have similar amounts of wear. I am really at a loss here. I am sure this is something in this forum, but searching for "sweet smell" just yields people talking about a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust. Whenever I try to look up no smoke it just shows a ton of results for people talking about how they got no smoke after replacing the AOS. Best, Sam
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