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JE 17

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JE 17 last won the day on March 12 2023

JE 17 had the most liked content!

About JE 17

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  • From
    Illinois
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Porsche 986 x 2, BMW 540i, 997.2, MINI, Cayenne Turbo, M235i
  • Future cars
    993
  • Former cars
    1980 BMW 320i , 2 1987 535i, 1984 Z28, VW Corrado, Volvo 850T, Peter D Modlite/Yamaha, 1968 Opel Kadett Rallye, and --how could I forget?--a temporarily shiny new 1971 Vega!

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  1. Ignition switches are a known problem. I have a spare sitting on the shelf for "jes sech an occurance" as Foghorn Leghorn would say.
  2. I was on my way across the Mississippi to get gas in Missouri (Illinois taxes you know.) I had just gotten on the bridge, accelerating uphill, not hard as I was behind one of those slow non-turbo dronemobiles when I heard a bang, then a grinding noise. At first, I thought I had run over something, but I never saw anything. So I slowed to a crawl over the bridge until there was a safe place to pull over. I couldn't see anything, and it was running fine. So I rolled down to a gas station, got out my flashlight and tried to see what was wrong. No luck, so I called for a tow. Now this is really aggravating, but since I no longer have a property with a lift, I had to send it to a shop. They called the next day to tell me it appeared that a circlip holding this shaft had failed, and the shaft had pulled out of the transfer case. Now, in searching several forums, I didn't find anyone else with this problem yet he says it's common. In fact, it's so common, there are about seven upgrades of this circlip. A $16-some-dollar circlip! Oh yeah, and a driveshaft. $1700 there, though I found it on FCP for $1200. You must expect some problems at 115,000 miles, but I'm just happy I was a mile from town instead of the middle of I-80 in Nebraska or somewhere else fun!
  3. I don't have experience with that particular one, but having worked on my Cayenne Turbo and Boxsters, it is probably a squeeze job. They are usually placed so that you really can't get a good grip and some leverage, of course. But looking at that one, I would say you apply pressure to the ribbed areas to release. You might need to push inward at the same time to get it to release.
  4. You probably don't want to try changing the PDK fluid. I do most work myself on my Boxster, Cayenne and 911, but that requires some specifics in the Porsche diagnostic computer that I don't possess. And I've changed engines and all the suspension, so I'm not really averse to much!
  5. Perhaps disconnecting the battery would help. I recall here somewhere that positions need to be relearned after replacing a battery.
  6. Mine actually comes on by itself! I wish it would shut off most of the time! I'd rather hear the engine.
  7. Additional update. Several months have passed and no additional problems. I do get a "check left side marker" warning that is new, but it goes away. So I'll just wait until fall when the garage is under 90 and remove the seat to take a closer look---or why poke the bear?
  8. I have a new concern. After enduring this situation (https://tinyurl.com/this-trying-situation) I now notice the steering column itself being warm, very warm. I didn't get a reading on it, but you don't want to touch it long. And no, steering wheel heat wasn't on when discovered. Ideas?
  9. A small update. I lifted the carpet and checked the wiring, finding no obvious breaks. When I have more time (replacing HVAC fan in this one, Boxster oil change due, and going over new purchase) I'll take the seat out to get better access. But interestingly, have had no further problems after poking around the wire tray. I wonder if further investigation will show something loose in there. I will stay with it and keep you informed of any findings.
  10. Please, please! You are making my head hurt. This is why we use punctuation: to better communicate.
  11. That seems like a good suggestion. I got the warning signs again last night; "headlight control" and "stop/start disabled," yet it didn't lose the MFD or instruments. Curiously, the voltage was reading in the mid-mid-thirteens, which is when the problem usually occurs. If it's up in the 14s, there is no dropout. I'll try to do this, but it may be tough to accomplish as I'm about to move 1000 miles!
  12. Checked battery ground at the terminal, and just for good measure, gave it a Deoxit dose. I haven't driven it a lot since, so I don't know if that was helpful. The terminal was not loose, though. I will try to find the other end when I am able to put it in the air on my hoist.
  13. Just did this yesterday and there were some differences on my 2011 Turbo. The cover is held by a T20 Torx. And the filter door is held by another of the same dimension. But it went very easy, and I'm glad I took the effort. At 105,000 miles, that filter was loaded!
  14. The battery is one year old, and I just had it tested two weeks ago by Interstate for another issue. Could this be an alternator or regulator issue? I should add, the alternator was tested as well.
  15. Made it home without further trouble. When we stopped overnight in downtown Lincoln, a check engine light popped up. There were no indications of poor running, and it disappeared after one gas stop. I did notice every time the display died, the voltage was in the mid-thirteens. Most of the way back today, some 700 miles, it stayed around 14.7, and there were no problems.
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