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zg862

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  1. Hmm. Partial success. Here's the original (broken part) followed by my various prints to date. 1st was OK but was missing bits and had inaccuracies. 2nd did a "ball of wool" failure. 3rd had bed adherence problems and did a blob. 4th came out 95% OK but failed where the factory ones do when I tried to fit the "W" spring. (Broken tab to left of print) I need to figure out how it is supposed to work before I can set about beefing it up at all. I may also need to change the layer orientation to give more strength. It's progress, but not there yet. Any insight/informed speculation into how the tabs actually cancel the indication would be much appreciated. Z PS/ The bulk of the printed part seems to be dimensionally within tolerance. The stalk fits, interlock parts fit, roll pin fits etc.
  2. 2nd prototype building on the printer now. Roughly 2.5 hours estimated print time. Let's see how this one turns out...
  3. Any chance of a picture? Iirc, if you mean the bit around the sides and top then it's not so much of a gasket as a bit of trim (glass is bonded to the frame). Mine too seems to have shrunk a bit over the years but if it looks like it may think about going anywhere I'll pop a bit of glue (maybe a tiny tab of silicon sealant?) on it. If you mean the scuttle trim (ie the piece that covers the wiper arms), then this is also not as tight as it once was, but again doesn't seem to be going anywhere. When I had the cover off whilst faffing around with the bracing struts etc, I did my best to locate it securely on to the screen from below - with limited success.
  4. Hi there. I'm drawing up a replacement part for the bit of the indicator stalk that breaks and stops the cancelling working but I'm stuck. I don't have the little wings that break off near the pivot, so I don't know what I'm trying to replicate (see the red areas in the attached drawing). Does anyone have one in bits that they could photograph for me please? Incidentally, my first test print seems pretty good (even in PLA, it's stronger than I expected). If anyone is interested in the .stl file, let me know. Many thanks, Z
  5. Sorry - this wasn't a comprehensive answer by me and as I've just been fiddling with pedals, I thought I should update, even though the original post is no doubt passed its sell by date. Someone may have the same issue at some point. Ultimately, you need to split the pedal body in order to get it out of the way of the carpet. Pop the pedal off the ball to improve access, then undo the single screw that holds the body into the chassis. There is a "key" at the lower end of the body and this needs to slide up the bulkhead by about 5mm to release. Now undo the 4 screws holding the halves of the body together. I've found that the long one (at the base of the pedal) is much harder to unscrew than the other 3. This end is also the harder to separate because it joins the pedal itself. What you find inside depends on your model and options. I have a MY 1998(/99?) with a cable rather than electronic throttle, to which I have added the cruise control module, so I get the cable coming in at the bottom of the body, over a rocker an on to the rocker quadrant attached to the pedal. On the left of this rocker is a separate, coaxial quadrant to which the cruise control cable is fixed. The barrel ends of the cable can be removed from the quadrants. Releasing the cruise control end allows sufficient slack in this short cable for it to be removed from the controller. (If you haven't done so already, remove the air duct to improve access to the controller.) There is a tubular connector at the controller end that can be twisted through about 30 degrees and pulled out. This exposes the other cable end which can now be turned through ninety degrees and removed from the actuating rod. If you have a throttle cable, this can also be detached from its quadrant and rocker and separated from the pedal body. I suggest you now gather the pedal pieces and loosely reassemble to avoid mislaying anything. Ask me why this is a good idea. When reassembling, I'd advise keeping the throttle cable under tension i.e. NOT releasing it at the engine end. Slackening it off seemed like a good idea to give more cable at the pedal end but the downside of this is that the cable outer may not seat properly at the pedal body. If you find your new idle speed around 2500, this will be what has happened. So I'm told. No doubt this would have been much better with pictures, but lying upside down with my head in the footwell for an hour or so didn't put me in the right mood for faffing around with a camera. Z PS/ If you've soaked your carpet, chances are that water has gotten into the throttle cable which is technically BAD. Drive it out with WD40 or similar and maybe bung some lithium grease spray in as far as you can. Cable wants to be a slippery as a Tory cabinet minister caught lying again.
  6. 2 options: 1) Remove the cable by splitting the pedal body. "Un-pop" the pedal from the ball end of the actuator (some brute force required - it seems counter intuitive) then there are 3 or 4 screws on the side of the pedal base that will allow it to split. Pieces liable to go everywhere, but if you're careful, this is pretty straightforward. 2) Remove the cable and the cruise control module. together. There are 3x 10mm self tapping screws that hold the module in place and the cable connector, obvs. This doesn't help you with removing the throttle cable from the base of the pedal assembly, but you didn't mention this as an issue... Z
  7. Hi Loren. Any chance of the code for: Typ: CDR 32 Model No: BE 4667 Serial No: 15025509 Many thanks!
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