Sparkatan

2003 C4S cabriolet tiptronic. I have a problem with the soft top in that when I try to open it with either the dash button or key fob the latch above the dash onlocks, the clamshell opens and the windows drop but then nothing else. Then when I try to close it from that position the clamshell closes, the latch locks but the windows stay down. Prior to this I have recently had issues with the driver’s side flap not closing and removed it to test the motor ( which works when powered from a battery) then refitted it. Since then I’ve had the problem I’ve just described. Any advice anyone?

Sorry, I tried to post a photo but it wouldn’t let me. It turned out it wasn’t supposed to hook over the spring and it’s solved now.

Tried to open the roof again with the same problem and noticed the driver’s side flap stays fully open. I closed it manually by removing the plastic cap on top of the rear seat back and turning the allen screw. Took quite a few turns. The clamshell then fully seated. so it would appear to be either an electrical problem or faulty flap motor. i can see the little motor if i remove the seat back but how can i get to it to test or replace it?

I dismantled the drivers side door handle assembly to repair the disconnected link and noticed this little hook on the mechanism. Is it supposed to hook over the spring which you can see next to it on the photo? photo to come

I have the same problem. Tried to open the roof this weekend and the clam shell wouldn't close the last inch or so. Nothing seems untoward with the flaps etc. Tried it several times but no joy.

Yes

Hi, i’m fitting a Kenwood DMX 8020 DABS to a 2003 996 C4S tip. Has anyone done this improvement? I am thinking of using the Connects2 CT 51 PO04 MOST amp retention kit but bizarrely Connects2 can’t confirm this is the correct one for my car. Anyone any advice/experience with this?

Hi, one of the side latches on the soft top clamshell is stuck in the locked position. I’m pretty sure the connecting rod has dropped off the hook. The emergency crank handle doesn’t seem to operate the side hooks and it’s impossible to get access to refit the connecting rod unless the clamshell is open. Any ideas as to how I can gain access to it or if it is possible to manually move the hook to the open position. I’ve tried to wiggle my hand up beneath the clamshell but it needs a contortionist’s hand.

Hi, I have a 996 C4S with a PCM.2. Today the radio suddenly went off completely. No lights on the buttons, nothing. Then after about 10 minutes the screen came on with the Porsche logo but no sound and the buttons did not illuminate. Then it went off. I turned the ignition off, removed the key then reinserted it and started the engine. The radio came back on as normal. 10 minutes later it did it again. I turned the ignition off and removed the key but this time the screen stayed on - even with the key removed! No sound from the radio though. Any ideas what is going on?

Ok, thanks. Looking forward to changing the leaking heater core as it is gassing me.

Thanks for your replies. where does it vent to?

I am in the process of replacing the heater core on my C4S and when i removed the plastic scuttle at the bottom of the windscreen i found a thin, clear plastic pipe which comes up via a rubber grommet from the wheel arch to under the scuttle, however, it isn’t attached to anything. The end of it has been expanded so it would seem it has been attached to something but what it was i do not know. Anyone have any ideas?

Please ignore. I figure i have the wrong pads. My calipers are 996 351 43- which are turbo calipers. The pads fitted are not for these.

I’ve just replaced the brake pads, retainer and retainer spring on my C4S. The new retainer spring is rubbing on the disc and is very noisy. I had a look over the weekend and it seems the new Brembo pads pivot on the retainer rod and this allows the pad to move below the top of the disc at either side. The result is grooves are being ground into the new retainer spring ears. I think that eventually enough material will be ground off the ears to allow clearance but it may leave them perilously thin. Anyone else had this and how was it resolved?

Incidentally, none of the sensors were damaged and all brake pads had plenty of wear left on them, however both of the front pads retaining pins are seized solid and i can’t remove them. But that’s another issue.

C4S 2004, Brembo brakes. The brake warning message came on telling me to change my pads. Not knowing which wheel it related to i ordered pads and sensors for both front and rear wheels. I got prices from two suppliers and both advised the rear pads were Brembo 44H383 and front were Brembo 44H153. When i received the pads and removed the rear wheels i found the calipers were the same as the ones on the front wheels, 44H153, however the wire sensors were different on the rear and seem to be a combination brake pad and wheel speed sensor? Why would the rear calipers not be as listed for the car? Is there a combination sensor available as I can’t seem to find one?

Great. Thanks.

Hi, My 2004 996 C4S tiptronic has the annoying habit of creeping forwards when waiting in a queue or at traffic lights etc. This means i have to keep my foot on the brake pedal. On a slight incline the car does not do this. Is this an issue with the torque converter?

Hi, the convertible roof tensioner cable has snapped at the bottom and I am trying to gain access to the top crimped eylet and spring so I can remove and replace it but can't get the trim off to get to it. I have removed the small torx screws holding the rubber strip and the posidriv screws beneath but it is still solid. Any ideas how i can do this?

Sorry I didn’t reply sooner. 996 C4S 2004 I’ve since started to replace both silencers and found the PSE mechanisms didn’t move, probably due to their age, they look like original silencers and both had corroded at the seams and the N/S one had a broken flexible joint. What I thought would be a Saturday job turned into a full weekend and I still only managed to replace one! The main problems were getting the old silencer off due to all of the bolts being very badly corroded. The three nuts on the mounting bracket were impossible to get to with the car on the ground even with the bumper off. I could just about get to the rear one but it wouldn’t budge and ended up rounded off. I ended up cutting the heads off the bolts on the two mounting devices and removing it that way. The downside is I had to fit the new bolts from the bottom with the nuts at the top which isn’t ideal if a nut decides to come off. I bought a silencer kit from Design 911 with the PSE option and here’s a tip. Although they say you can no longer use the dashboard button with their kit as it comes with a wireless fob, that’s not strictly correct. All you do is refit the two existing vacuum hoses to the new silencers and it works. You don’t need the controller and wiring that they provide. If you decide to use these and the fob then indeed you won’t be able to use the dashboard button. I now have a surplus to requirement wireless fob kit. The silencers are smaller than the original ones and I had a bit of trouble getting the end pipe to fit. The alignment was slightly different and the connecting bracket was a poor fit. Managed it in the end but it took me hours to do it. I expect the O/S silencer will be a bit easier now i’ve an experienced the first one and hopefully there will be less corrosion. I’ll post again when i’ve finished and let you know the results.

Amazed I got no replies or comments to this.

Has anyone replaced their PSE silencers with OEM versions that are key fob operated BUT managed to modify the wiring so the dash mounted PSE switch operates?

I’m going to get the amp checked and maybe it’ll be a cheap repair. Thing is it’s going to cost £400 to integrate this with the new head unit.

Got a quote from a car audio specialist today and was a bit surprised that they’re quoting £420 for a fibre optic adaptor to work with a Kenwood unit and existing Bose amp. The other option is a new amp at around £400 but the adaptor won’t be required. There’s nothing in the Kenwood blurb that says an amp is needed. Does this sound right?

The PSE button light is permanently illuminated. Is this simply a faulty switch or something else?