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millerchris85

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millerchris85 last won the day on November 30 2019

millerchris85 had the most liked content!

About millerchris85

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  • From
    Minneapolis
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2003 911 Turbo, 2008 Cayenne Turbo
  • Former cars
    1993 Audi S4, 2000 Audi S4, 2001 Audi S4, 2002 Audi S6, 2004 M3, 1992 S4, 2004 V70R

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  1. Hi Exor, sorry for the delay. I am not sure if I follow what you are struggling with. Any chance you can send pics? Are you referring to the lines that are connected to the turbo inlet? Are you coming in from the Driver Side wheel well? Ultimately, there is a certain amount of force needed for some of the fittings, as well as tools. I have been able to replace the power steering hose without difficulty although, to your point, not all of the details are covered. Let us know what you're struggling with (if you still are!).
  2. Thank you JFP! I was checking into this; are you suggesting that a larger cooler would help, in replacement of the existing one?
  3. I have an 08 Cayenne TT, and one of my favorite pastimes is ice racing in the winter with friends. And by ice racing, I mean driving around a random course for a few hours on a nice day 🙂 The problem is that I am 2/2 on losing my power steering pump from ice racing. Sustained driving under load and with a decent amount of steering angle causes the pump to fail. I realize this is easily solved by just not driving the car this way. And, for better or worse, I am getting pretty good at replacing the pump. But my question is - any thoughts on how I could upgrade the system to make it stand up to this abuse? A couple ideas; - Increase the reservoir and/or line size (if it is cavitating the pump)? - Add a cooler to manage both temperature and fluid amount? - Convert to an electric PS pump? Mostly curious if anyone has done stuff like this before. Thanks!
  4. FWIW if you are looking for a sportier drive, you probably have the wrong car. I did put secondary cat deletes on mine and am very happy with the results, but it is just a bit more noise and response. But it drives and handles like the 5000lb+ SUV that it is, albeit with plenty of grunt. It remains quiet and comfortable which is great for passengers and road trips. Plus I want to keep the rear diff and trans intact as long as possible. Lastly, beware getting a cheap tune; you really want to go with someone that will double check your fueling and AFR's before and after. Unless it is a conservative off-the-shelf tune, I would not put anything on a car that hasn't been pressure tested and with a wideband AFR for logs before/after.
  5. I did! But not well enough, clearly. This video helped me confirm the orientation. The door closer to the radio is also foam-less, but I am not sure if I want to cut a hole in the heater box to get to it.
  6. I recently got a 996 911 and immediately noticed the heater was weak. I repaired the foam on the heater flap, and it is now worse... In an effort to check the solenoid, I disconnected it from the flap and moved the flap by hand, and it gave me a slight change but not much. I’ve tried multiple test drives with the bleeder valve open, and both heater core lines are warm to the touch, so I think it is bled. Not sure where to go from here. Possibly the control unit, or possibly the flap is not installed correctly? If the core is warm and I manually move the flap, shouldn’t I be able to get heat? The flap has little rotation, maybe 60 degrees at most.
  7. Thank you both for the advice! I am searching for used units right now. Just to ask the question - is there any awareness whether the headlight leveling bits inside the housing are the same for turbo versus non-turbo? Used right-side housings for turbo are hard to come by; I could potentially get a non-turbo unit and swap the bits over.
  8. I am a brand new 996 owner as of two days ago 😃 I bought a 996 turbo and drove it home, and immediately noticed that the passenger side low beam was dipped way low. Referencing the manual, I tried adjusting it, but no success. I removed the housing and found that the adjust mechanism is broken inside - with the setup being manual adjustment --> gear/lever mechanism --> auto adjust motor (996 631 135) --> bulb housing, the gear/lever arrangement is broken at the interface to the auto adjust motor. As a result, nothing is controlling the beam height. I spent some time trying to find a part number for the gear/lever mechanism and no luck - only got as far as the auto adjust motor. I can attempt to repair with glue or similar but not convinced it will hold. Any tips for this one? I would prefer to replace just this mechanism.
  9. The check valve right after the intake manifold is not allowing vacuum to go to the diverter valves. When I disconnected it, the line to the diverter valves appeared to be pressurized. Bypassed it and getting good vacuum to the diverter valves, and no longer having the sounds that I initially posted about, but P1666 is still triggering after high-boost situations. I am curious if this is partially due to the lack of check valve, with the long-ish diverter valve lines seeing both pressure and vacuum now - taking longer to close the diverter valves (?). New diverter valves and check valve ordered. I also want to replace the plastic line under the intake manifold but struggling to find it so far.
  10. To clarify - that’s the diverter valves, right? That’s where my research was pointing, but the “implausible signal” part is confusing.
  11. The car is now triggering P1666. It seems to agree with me that something is not right. Fingers crossed that I can find/fix the problem without much difficulty!
  12. Lol, and to think I was expecting a picture of a BMW. Still in the family!
  13. I’d suggest ohming out the wires as wiring issues can be tricky to find otherwise.
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