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por986

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Everything posted by por986

  1. Thanks. Halogen. So the entire housing would have to be replaced I take it. What is the proper terminology for the bumper lip so that I can search online? This is the actual vehicle/style...
  2. 2012 Cayman R I am working on closing a deal on this vehicle and I need to estimate costs for specific items... All of my searches are falling short.... 1. The top most edge of one headlight is scratched directly over the black border (for lack of a better term) - it looks like someone was buffing the hood or something along those lines. From what I could tell on inspection, the outermost housing of the headlight is plastic. Would the entire housing have to be replaced or can it be separated and just that topmost part replaced.....it is hard to tell if it is one piece or layered somehow? 2. At the bottom of the front bumper there are two lips/spoilers (one on each side) that can be removed via clips. One is damaged due to a bottom-out. What is the part number and/or cost to replace? Thanks!
  3. A bit confused... I have found a local deal and this one has A/C. Is the deletion standard but A/C optional? I figured it simply wasn't an option on the Cayman R.
  4. Thanks. The window seems to operate throughout the day, and then I get to my home.in the evening. I roll it down to enter the gate code, roll it up and park - The window seems to drop/raise when I open the door to get out, otherwise the door wouldn't close properly. When I turn the car off, in the morning it is blown because I notice the door not opening - window not dropping. I have heard a noise in the door when the drivers side window is operated so maybe that is the wiring getting caught on something - will take a look. Until I track it down, I have been placing a fuse in, putting the top up or down (or using the windows), and then puling the fuse. Lather, Rinse, Repeat. :-\
  5. Hi, 2001 S 71K miles I noticed that my windows stopped working and because it happend to both windows simultaneously, I figured it was the fuse - In looking, sure enough I found the primary fuse had blown. I replaced it, it worked for a day, and then blew again. Because I used the spare in the fuse box, I figured that with 10+ years on the clock that maybe I should use new ones. So I purchased new fuses, replaced it, and over a day it blew again. When I replace the fuse, everything seems to be working fine. Never had luck with working on elecrical systems, so I need some detailed advice on where to begin my troubleshooting. Where should I start, what should I measure, etc.? Any help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  6. 2001 Boxster S Time for a replacement or repair as the plastic has cracked. I am not sure I want to do the work myself so.... 1. Does anyone know of a reputable shop near San Antonio, TX. 2. What is the current consensus on which is the best glass window top? Reading threads here and elsewhere, it seems to me that GAHH would be it, but I haven't seen too much recent discussion on it. Thanks!
  7. Sorry, but am I missing something? The url is a family album ;) Sorry, if I am being dense.
  8. Going on 5 days and about 400 miles now with no CEL and it is running great! I think that was the culprit, but time will tell.
  9. You will have to remove the tank to repair it, and there will be no guarantee that using an epoxy weld or similar will hold up for any duration. With the time you will invest to "hopefully" seal it, you might get a leak very soon after it is pressurized. Since you can get a tank for under $300, I would just replace it with new. Before I replaced mine, I was thinking of trying to repair mine as well. Every shop I talked with essentially talked me out of it.
  10. Mine was almost in the center bottom - it will vary. I found a picture online that appeared to have a leak near the same area as mine. I have circled it. I had a hard time finding the leak also and it only did on heavy pressure. If you can feel around, you should eventually find residue solidified around the area. I never pinpointed it until it was removed. PITA to replace, but in my opinion, worth a DIY :-\
  11. Interesting, I have never seen the two related in researching. I recently commented on the following thread, so you have me intrigued. Are these related?
  12. New MAF is installed. First thing I noticed right off is that on a cold start, I don't have the hesitation I have noticed as of late. - So that seems good so far. I will keep you posted as I get more miles on it.
  13. With the exception of my RMS leaking (noticeably) after fixing the AOS, my situation is the same. I am still getting the same codes as you, and I am replacing the MAF with the newer one. It should be here tomorrow, so we will see if that rids it.
  14. I have the same noise but only when it is cold out. Looking on 986faq, it states the following. Is it inaccurate? --------------------------- Diagnostic: Whine comes from the engine compartment for 30 seconds after starting the car when cold outside. Cause: This is an air pump that helps the emission control system reduce the pollutants released into the atmosphere. Details: This is normal, and no correction is necessary. Time in Shop: None. Repair Instructions: None. Notes: None.
  15. Is there a difference between the 986 and 987 mounts? Year restrictions or anything like that? Specifically, I have an 01S.
  16. Isn't that the truth.. The hardest thing is waiting for 9+quarts to drain.
  17. So being redundant as I have stated this on multiple posts now, I just want to say that I have NEVER worked on a vehicle in my life and I didn't even know details of how a clutch worked, what an IMS was and how it related to anything, etc. BUT having said that, I just finished replacing the RMS, clutch, and upgrading the IMS on my 01S in my little garage on jack stands (with limited tools), and it was easy in retrospect. Sure, I was irritated many times and swore constantly that I wouldn't do it again, but that was really due to my frustration with the lack of support from LN engineering and what I considered inadequate instructions for a DYIer. Having completed it and knowing what I know now, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again! It sounds to me like you have solid background and shouldn't have any problems with working on a Boxster if you are willing to. Also, there are many good members out here willing to help!
  18. I did not replace the flywheel as it looked good on inspection. Replaced Clutch Disk, pressure plate, release bearing, release lever and ball pin. Car had 60K on it.
  19. Had to post an update - 3 years later :-\ <insert your jabs> So I did it! My hand was forced due to an oil leak (RMS) after replacing my AOS. Today is the 4th day of driving after replacing Clutch, RMS and IMS and it is driving like new. Actually feels more powerful then I remember over the past 9 years. It was a long road and it took me a few months because I could only spend a few hours per weekend and did a lot of driving here and there for tools and waiting for replies to questions as they came up. IMS install is not documented *fully* anywhere as there are little gotchas here and there, and luckily, thanks to a few members and the interwebs, I was able to get it done. For anyone that has never worked on a car before but has enough ballz to give it a shot, you can do it. If you are in the San Antonio, TX area and need help doing a similar job, the dealer charges $160/hr in labor... I will beat them by 10 bucks/hr, so drop me a note ;) In all seriousness, it really wasn't that difficult - you are really paying for the know-how. I think that I could do the entire job now in 8hrs knowing the intricacies. I still have some other things to take care of (CV boots)... maybe another 3 years...ha!. I have a makeshift RMS install tool to return to a member, and I just want to say to anyone that I have been in touch with thank you very much for the assistance.
  20. Just for due diligence, after replacing, look for any oil leaking around where the transmission meets up with the block (after each drive). If that appears, you will want to investigate RMS replacement (most probable).
  21. Awesome stuff! Great info all around, I appreciate it! Performance is key, but I don't know if I am refined enough to actually tell the difference on something like this :-\ Short of the **** thing snapping or rattling my ears off, I might never know the diff. My gut at the moment is to purchase the CVMAN set and work on the OEM ones at leisure, and once complete swap them out again somewhere down the road. Good to have a backup of sorts laying around considering that OEM or aftermarket don't seem to last all that long anyway. Also, I might be able to gauge performance much better then using both; albeit a short-term measurement. I have had two months on jack stands working on all the other stuff, so not a big deal waiting a couple of more weekends if need be. But to get something on it and drive it again will be nice while I work on the rebuild - learning something new is always fun! "trying to fix them faster than our clients can break them" - that is a great motto! Again, THANKS! 59Coupe, Please post back if you run into 'any' issues at anytime - or even to praise them. If I go the same route, I will do my best to keep others informed as well! If you care, PM me with your full name so that I can tell them I am doing business partly based on your experience/input thus far. Maybe that will be a discount for you down the road should you do business with them again. - Just a thought.
  22. I value your input! But... Wow, on first read, I have to say I take offense to your implication that I am so naive. Trust me, I am not ignorant to the ways of Ebay and I can tell you that SO FAR, the cvman joint does not meet the bill of being shady. And besides, I haven't bought from them yet and am still doing research, so relax.............................................. Selling Porsche parts anonymously? Um.... not quite... http://thecvman.com/. Not hard to track (address, numbers, etc.). Also, full customer service as previously stated, I have talked with them and was satisfied by the level of support so far. Also, since another member is using them right now, that is a bit more reassuring (a bit). Additionally, CVMAN will do the rebuild for me at a $25 charge per boot (plus parts). Very reasonable I think! Also, I researched a few of the others I posted initially and they failed miserably in the customer service department, not to mention horrid reviews from buyers online. While I will pay when deemed necessary, I am tired of hearing the excuse that "this is a performance vehicle..blah blah.. and parts are expensive!" Give me a Fn' break. How many generations of expansion tanks are Boxsters on - 8 or so? Really, the genius engineers can't seem to figure it out and still charge $300? Also, if from what I am reading in my research is true that some believe that the boots on these vehicles are expected to last until the 40-50K mark, that is simply ridiculous. If the boots are the same for both inner and outer and the angle of the assembly is a likely issue, it sure doesn't seem that much thought was given to it. Why wouldn't there be a "performance" boot that takes this into account - A specialty boot that can handle it? Mark-ups exist for many reasons (like just for a name) and that is why we are all doing the DiY around here. I think alternatives have proven just as good in many areas, so there is no reason this can't be one of them. A single CV boot for $35 - that thing better be different than the $5-$10 one for a mustang. What kind of rubber are they using? Also, as an example, some people are willing to pay thousands for a set of headphones that play frequencies your ear will never detect. While that is their prerogative, I am not one of them, nor am I a Porsche snob. I could care less what the label is on the axle as long as it can perform as "I" need it to. Since you have the capacity to scrutinize the resellers (which I am all for and highly encourage it), why not contact CVMAN (Danny) on everyone's behalf and ask to see the part, and then let us know your expert opinion?? Now that will be much more useful! I will hold off on the purchase if you can make that happen ;) Oh, and the full OEM is not out of my budget. But I never spend my hard earned money needlessly - that is why I am doing my research before hand. I will buy them if I can find valid data to suggest that it is necessary - that is for my driving habits/needs. Hence, why I posted to begin with. BTW, are you a reseller? If so, how much through you?
  23. Thanks N41EF, that is great info. I got word back from eBay seller CVMAN "These axles are brand new designed to meet or exceed OEM specs. They are not rebuilt or taken from salvaged vehicles." I called them and was impressed that 1) they answered on the first ring, 2) they answered my questions regarding where the part is manufactured (out of Georgia). They also carry a typical 1yr warranty and seem very solid on customer service. I told them that if I tracked this car and had a problem, I would hunt them down :-\ hahahha. So now I have to make the decision. Parts from Sunset to rebuild will be around $200 (that's with 2 tubes of grease if that is enough), or $400 for the complete ebay set. hmmm... decisions descisions.
  24. Interesting and coincidental, I emailed CVMAN asking if the ones he is selling are rebuilt OEM or what earlier today. Haven't heard anything back as of yet. N41EF, So mine seem to have plenty of grease packed in and aren't too dirty. I read Pelican's writeup but can't figure out all of the steps. One being, after taking the bolts off and removing the dust cap and removing the circlip, how do you pull off the assembly to slide the old boot off and place the new one on? And then, how do you put the assembly back on the axle once you have the new boot on and grease packed in? I talked with 3 different rebuild shops in town, and all of them told me they don't carry "the pressing tool" to reassemble them on a Porsche. What the heck is a pressing tool? I will definitely take this on if I can get all of the unknowns figured out. Are there any fully detailed write-ups? I just did my IMS and RMS, and the writeups don't quite tell you all that you need to know and you have to figure it out - luckily there are great members to help out ;) http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/41-TRANS-CV_Joint_-_Boots/41-TRANS-CV_Joint_-_Boots.htm
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