fastboydave

Dont waste your time and money. The performance increase will be 'slight'. Save your money and get a 996 Turbo. Then if that isnt enough, get an ECU remap and that will give you another 60-80bhp alone.......... That would be my advise.

Is it from the seat 'padding' or under the seat (rails)?? If its from the seat padding, specifically the back rest i had an issue. You have to unclip the padding from the from of the back rest. My issue was the 'foam' within the seat was rubbing/squeeking on the meatl surround. I just pushed a piece of folded paper in it and no more issues. I suspect silcon grease would do the job too. You need to locate it first. Good luck.

The on switch or loose 'power' onnection at back maybe???

It will deliver the power fairly gradually yes, you wont get full boost straight away it 'ramps up'. Its more for ease of driving as anything else as well as not straining the drive train. However, the point you raised was that it doesnt happen when you have been driving it hard already? And my previous thoughts seem to withstand that.

Sounds like the Turbo's are taking a while to spool up. If you've been ragging it already, they will be already spining partially and the 'lag' is greatly reduced. Also, the engine ECU (that controls all these things) will give you optimum fuel economy when driving slow (valve timing, ignition advance, turbo bypass etc) and when you open the taps it says "hold on, does he mean this? Ah, yes he does" and gives you the beans! The only true way to find out is drive another (ask at Porsche) or take it in to see if any issue (fault codes). My 996TT is similar when pottering around, however if always 'on it' there's no such issue......

I first stepping into a Porsche by buying a brand new Box S. Like you i kept it for three years, then went to a 996TT. I chose manual for three reasons. 1) Faster (from official figures, but depends how good you are at changing gears??) 2) Better fuel economy (not that it really matters) & 3) More driving pleasure (if driven as it should be). In terms of reliability, i dont know how reliable Tips are, but clearly you have to buy a new clutch when it wears out. If driven correctly, i'd suggest that it will last in excess of 50k miles. I had mine replaced at 30k (other work was being done in that area and killed two birds with one stone to save labour) and they said it was about half worn. The issues i have had with the manual/clutch is the release baring (why the work was being done in that area) the slave cylinder and the accumulator (clurch fluid reservoir). Which brings me nicely onto the extended warrantee and Porsche check. I bought from private dealer and got them to take it to Porsche (Hatfield UK) to do their check (around £200). If this is thumbs up, it allows you to buy a Porsche warrantee at (now) £895/annum. This covers all major stuff, apart from trim, fixings and wear etc and two of the three issues i had above (slave cyl, and baring). I have also had a few other issues over the last 3 years of owber ship and basically have got my money back for the warrantee 3 fold. So from my point of view, it was well worth it. It is as you find it tough and some may disagree. Maybe you have it on for the first year at least, that way anything crops up you should be covered. Personally i would look for an unmodified X50 996TT. Taht way you know the baseline and you know what you are doing to it. Otherwise you have absolutley no idea what stresses and strains have been put onto the vehicle it is not designed for?? Keep in mind though, if you modify ANY of the mechanics/electrics, NO Porsche warrntee will be able to be purschased or honoured. Happy shopping.

I'm sure its definitely more expensive when you have a "Porsche", but the problem is to get a quote, you have to take it to them to view. Most bodyshops (here in the UK anyway) want to see the car. So what do you do?? I could do with a 'refurb' on the rear bumper after someone 'grazed' the side of the bumper. Small cheap looking body shop wanted £470 (approx $900). If i went to the 'approved Porsche' place, add another couple of hundred Dollars on! Even "Chipsaway" wanted $400 and thats without removing the bumper and just spraying the bumper with an average job and their 'special paint'. You may save a few quid if you remove the bumper and take it to them and put it back yourself. Pretty easy to do. The only thing, the match may be not too good if they dont have a comparison??

My UK spec Turbo (right hand drive) holds 64 litres......

Always leave it in gear too my friend! Handbrakes/cables/shoes have been known to fail on any car...........

Is this a 'creaking' or ticking noise up front?? Check this link out where i have posted before for a particular windscreen issue...... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=windshield It may be your problem??

Cheers. Do you have to remove the turbo's too to do the shields on those?? Dave.

Folks..... Apparently my turbo heat shields are corroded and require replacing and my exhaust heat shield in most places is loose. Is there a quick easy method of doing the jobs rather than removing the turbo's and exhaust etc?? Please advise? Cheers, Dave.

Sounds like bad connection/faulty sensor on the new sensors you put on. Alternatively, it could be pure coincidence that the rears have gone too?? You say you have checked, but both pads per corner?? Try puttin the old sensors back on too without fitting to pads and see if the light goes off, then theres your answer.

Good point with the alternator, forgot about that! I will try and check my voltage over the long weekend we have here this week (bank holiday monday) and feed back into you next week. It could be a device, the car 'warms up' yes, but the longer you run a high load, the more the voltage in the battery will fall. So it will have the apprearance of the 'warming up' causing the problem. But however, i do suspect it is mor a bad 'connection' To answer your other question above, YES, poor/broken cable, will cause this issue, i mentioned this before. Good suggestion there above, run a new cable from alternator output to battery. No need to be flash, outside of car is fine, just make sure the cable is lareg enough (cross sectional area) and you arent shorting anything. That should prove your +ve connection or not??

Get you manual out, and look in the fuse description section. Just use your common sense from what you know comes 'alive' when the engine is running. Pull each fuse in turn (TURN IGNITION OFF AND KEY OUT EACH TIME YOU PULL A FUSE, AND RESTART ENGINE). You need to run your engine a little while after each one to see if the voltage starts to recover. Follow me here: If you had a device that was pulling too much current when the engine was on, the battery voltage would gradually fall as the alternator would not be putting out enough current (at tick over) to 'replace' the energy being used. If you REV the engine, the potential output (current) of the alternator goes up, so should then combat the extra current being drawn from the battery by a faulty 'device'. It needs to be held there though. Is it? Can you get someone to hold it at say 3000rpm for 5-10mins and see what happens??? When you had your alternator tested, was it just put on the tester, thumbs up then off?? Or was it on for a while (soak test) the same kind of time it takes for you to see an issue?? If not it could be that the alternator is 'breaking down' when it starts to get warm etc?? I just hope for you in the end its not a bad engine harness?