Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
sithot
-
Posts
6 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About sithot
sithot's Achievements
Member (1/1)
1
Reputation
-
Great advice from everyone. Howard is 100% correct. Taking the tank out is not that daunting a task. At a minimum if it's not rusted it will need a vigorous flush. You WILL also need to change the fuel filter. Don't even think about cutting that corner. Good luck!
-
Bruce Anderson would tell you (God rest his soul) to trust the dipstick 1st and foremost. Get a feel for what the oil level gauge is showing you when the dipstick reads about halfway between the marks.
-
DME uses a sensor on the flywheel. They do go bad (or at least the trigger can). Change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done already. Does sound like ignition though.
-
Paint tag on the drivers side hinge post. A pillar black aluminum plate. Paper/mylar/plastic VIN information on the lock post. May or may not be there if the car has been painted and the door areas painted. There is another number hidden under the dash pad above the ash tray. And another number in crayon or similar under the dash. This was a "control" number that is used if you suspect you have a "cut car". This number can only be verified by the factory. You give them the number and your serial number and they will tell you "yes" or "no". They will not divulge what the correct serial for the car "should be" if they don't match up. More of an issue with the cars that have gone stratospheric in value like the RS, and early S models. Goo luck.
-
I think that is reasonable. Used similar technique in the "old cars" that actually had an oil temperature gauge. Preferred to see a drop off in pressure along with a rise in temperature. OT; the Harley Evolution engines didn't like to be twisted until they warmed up. (in fact none of them do) Most base gasket leaks were due to ham fisted "get on it and romp the heck out it" owners. I've always allowed for a gentle warm up period holding rpms to a minimum until I see the pressure gauge drop and judging by the heat in the heads (put a glove hand on them while riding) I know it's warmed up. My particular bike is 16 years old and dry as popcorn. As for the many Nortons and Triumphs it didn't much matter. They leaked no matter what I tried. :huh:
-
1975 911-S (49 State car) "52" US, "53 ROW Beginning '75 only the 911-S was offered in the US along with the Carrera which was ostensibly a tarted up S. Same engine. Good luck!
