Lyn

The rear quarter window (drivers side) on my 2006 Cab has decided to remain in the down position. Primarily I'm interested in a good DYI that shows how to take of the interior panels on a Cab so I can get access to the mechanism. I had located a post on one of the Forums from an owner that upgraded his Bose speakers, but it was too big to download on my phone and now I can't find it again. This getting old stuff really sucks. Thx, Lyn

I need to replace my GPS cable that runs from under the right side of the windshield to the back of the Nav module. There is not much working room to remove the old cable, so I'd like to release the Nav module so I can slide it forward. Any of you had any experience doing this??? Thx, Lyn

In answer to my own question, there was a dime in the track. Once that was removed and a new cable (997.521.901.00) installed, it all works well now. The cable kit was over $100, which is a pain, but after all it is a Porsche.

So after looking at it closely, I have determined that the jack screw on the left side rail of the driver seat is jammed. The motor was strong enough to twist in half, the cable from the motor to the screw jack on the rail. The rail does not appear to come apart, so I'm a bit lost as to what to do. I've taken the seat to an upholstery shop for evaluation and they speculate that a coin has slipped into the track at some point and is jamming the jack screw. They'll try and free it up, but no guarantees.Bummer

I'm installing some full leather 14 way heated full leather comfort seats in my 997.1 and all went well until I tried to activate the forward/aft movement of the drivers seat. (I should note that the seats I am replacing had the same functions as the ones I'm installing but were only partial leather.) All the other functions seem to work, but the left side (drivers) rail will not go forward or backwards. The right side rail moves normally. These seats are supposed to be a plug and play according to the Porsche parts catalog, so I'm thinking a motor problem might be the issue. There are three (3) motors on the bottom of the seat and I am unsure which on controls the left rail. I've got a replacement motor on my old seats, so parts availability isn't the issue. Any ideas Loren??? Thx, Lyn

Thx Loren. An E12 seems to fit it better than a 10mm and it definitely has a distinct 6 point head. My 997.1 is a 2006 made in late 2005 with the M96-05 engine, so the E12 is probably correct. I'll know in a couple of days when I replace the seats. I bought a pair of almost new "comfort" leather seats out of a 2008 Turbo and they are much nicer than the partial leather seats mine came with.

Can anyone tell me the correct socket size of the 997 seat attach bolts. An E12 6-point seems to be the correct fit, but would like to verify.

I've had a Smart-Top module in my Cabriolet for a couple of years, however lately when closing the top the right rear window will on occasion go only 2/3s the way up. I am able to manually close it with the switch on the drivers door, but that is a pain. I periodically clean the track with silicon spray, but the problem persists. I initially thought that maybe the Smart Top module had gone stupid on me, but the local Porsche dealer thinks it's the regulator. The top gets lots of up and down usage here in Arizona and I don't want the window to cease operating entirely, but the dealers estimate of $1K to fix it was a bit unsettling. Have any of you had this problem and if so how did you deal with it?? Does anyone know of a DIY to replace the regulator if that is really the problem? Thx, Lyn

My 2006 C2 has Nav and Bose with the single CD changer but AM/FM radio capability only. I know that the 2007 911s had satellite radio incorporated into the Bose system and would like to better understand if I can update my PCM unit to include satellite radio too. Any ideas? Lyn

I've already been in contact with LN Engineering regarding this subject, but thought I'd pass it along to the membership. On my third oil change since installing a LN Engineering magnetic drain plug, we were unable to get a torque reading and the sump leaked in the area of the plug. We drained the (new) oil catching about 50% of it and noted that the seating rim of the plug had begun to separate from the body of the plug and kept any torque from being applied. In time, if we had kept trying to tighten the plug, the rim would have separated completely. LN's response was to offer a no charge new plug (they are good guys) and to remind me that "the torque spec on our plug is 19 LB/ft while factory is 37LB/ft". With that knowledge, I suspect it is very likely the folks that have been changing my oil, over-torqued the plug causing the rim separation. My pictures are a little dark, but the light area where the separation began is pretty easy to see. Hopefully relating my experience will be of benefit to the membership. Lyn

Mijostyn, I always enjoy reading your posts because of your analytical approach to the subject at hand. The subject of which oil brand and viscosity to use in which environment concerns me because of the risk of Intermediate shaft bearing failure and/or cylinder scoring. I can't help but think that, as you surmised, the environment has more of an impact than many of us realize. I live in Phoenix. and for a large part of the year, the oil temperature is never below 100 degrees, even when parked overnight. My 997 3.6 is as much a grocery getter as a long haul car and I put 14-16,000 miles a year on it. I am a bit paranoid about oil dilution and breakdown in the severe temperatures we see in Phoenix and use Motul Excess 5-40 with a 3,500 mile change interval. I realize that people might think that I'm wasting oil and filters to some extent with that interval, but both are cheap compared to an engine failure. What I'm building up to here, is my concern about oil pressure in high temp environments. With oil temperature in the 225-230 degree range, my oil pressure drops to just over 1 Bar at idle while motoring about town or in heavy traffic. Once on the move, oil pressure goes up to 3 1/2-4 bar. I've considered going up a step to 10-40 or 10-50 during the summer months, but have heard that the vario-cam system is very sensitive to viscosity levels above 5-40 because of the small oil passages. You've done more research than most on the subject of which oil to use and I'd appreciate your thoughts on what direction I might go to bump up my low RPM oil pressure. Thx, Lyn.

The drop down door that covers the cup holders on my 2006 C2 has developed a bit of a droop and is basically half open when closed. is there an easy way to correct the problem? I know that this is likely a pretty small issue for many of you, but for those of us more anal in nature, it is crucial. Many thanks for your input.

I believe that there is a DIY in the 987 Forum that you can use. It is virtually the same setup.

Just an update to my original post; I do use Motul 5-40 and change it every 3000 miles. The radiators are clean of any leaves or other crap and I installed a new water pump/serpentine belt and flushed the system with Porsche coolant at 25, 000 miles. Thx for your input and I'll just keep putting miles on it and monitoring the oil temp.

The oil temp on my 997C2 (3.6 engine) runs at 215-220 on a 90+ degree day in stop and go driving. It comes down in steady freeway driving but creeps back up in slower traffic. It never goes above 220, even under spirited use. High ambient temps are the norm in Phoenix from April through September I'm concerned about high oil temperature. Water temp is normal even in stop and go driving. Thx in advance for your input. Lyn

My 997.1 C2 has PSM with an on/off switch on the center stack and I've always been curious of what features PSM brings to the table? What doesn't work when you switch it off?

Thx for all the input. I'm pretty positive that accidental actuation isn't the cause because I never pocket the key and take special care to press the correct button when locking and unlocking the doors. I'll give Loren's proposed solution a try first and let you all know the results. Thx again for your sensible suggestions. Lyn

Periodically and I mean maybe three or four times a month my deck front lid (trunk) latch will unlatch by itself. Last night I parked my 997 in the garage with the lid firmly closed and this morning it was unlatched. Never happens when driving, only when parked. The latch seems to firmly catch without any play and yet on a very random and unrelated basis, it decides to release on its own. Any ideas as to why?? No ghost stories please. Thx, Lyn

Thank you.

OK, I'm not too swift on this subject, so be patient and see if you can make this simple enough so that I can understand it. I have a 2006 C2 without TPMS and would like to incorporate it. I understand that one needs sensors and I get that they are installed in the wheels. That's the nuts and bolts part. What I don't understand is how to develop the electronic interface between the sensors and the on board computer. Is that a simple turn it on with a Durametric unit, or is it more complex that that???? Thx, Lyn

I note that there is a great DYI for changing the spark plugs on a 996, but nothing listed for the 997. Is there any real difference in the procedure for a 997.1 with the 3.6 engine?

Thx to all for stepping in with your knowlege and comments. That's what the Forum is for and I really appreciate the collective input.

Have any of you tried a lightweight flywheel in your 3.6 or 3.8 997s? I know that the change causes transmission "rattle" noise at idle speeds, but I'm interested on the effect on drivability. Does the lighter flywheel make it more difficult to drive smoothly at low speeds, or does the quicker throttle response offset the negatives??

Installed the spacers today, 7mm on the frone and 15mm on the rears. I think that I made the right coice and welcome input. Pretty hot out there today; 105 and I'm glad that there were only 4 wheels to do. Got pretty tired by the end. Lyn