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One or more plugs might look marginally cleaner than the others. It does not take a lot of coolant in the combustion to make it smell, but fortunately there are relatively easy tests like seeing if the cooling system holds pressure, or testing the space above the coolant in the surge tank for combustion by products that will confirm or eliminate an internal leak.
Sweet smells in the exhaust are oftent due to coolant being burned in the combustion process. I would have the entire cooling system pressure tested as soon as possible. This should not be treated lightly as it will only get worse.
JFP in PA replied to kn8dl's topic in 997-2 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S, Carrera GTS, 911 Speedster)In reality, there is little, if any, evidence that either of these filters flow any better than factory over time, and they do let a lot of crap get by in the process. They do make more noise, if that is a factor.
JFP in PA replied to Swandolin's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Welcome to RennTech Sounds more like your have an ignition misfire. Any codes?
Your stated voltage measurment is weak. You should be testing the primary cables, the large ones running from the battery to the ground and starter, these are the ones that tend to develop internal corrosion. If you are unfamiliar with this test, do a search as this has been covered several times previously. We always load test both the alternator and battery when there is a problem. While this requires a load tester, it verifies that both are capable of delivering both the correct voltage and current (amps) as required.
Only problem is that the cables corrode internally(where it cannot be seen) on these cars, leading to high resistance and lowered voltages. I would run a voltage drop test across both primary cables; if you see more then 0.5 V drop, you need cables. I would also load test both the battery and alternator, which may have a weak diode that would only show up under load.
JFP in PA replied to wyovino's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)The primary reason these tubes crack is that they become brittle from heat over time. Trying to patch a failed unit is an exercise in futility, it is going to fail again somewhere else. Replace it.
No. All factory manuals, regardless of age, remain the copyrighted intellectual property of Porsche (PCMA), so they are the only authorized outlet for the factory manuals. Anyone else selling or even posting such information are subject to Porsche’s legal rath. Porsche has authorized Bentley to reproduce some of their information in their service manuals.
JFP in PA replied to Philip54's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Your window limits will have to be reset (see your owner's manual), and depending upon the year of the car you may need the radio security code. There should also not be any "bolts" on the factory cable ends other than the bolt that tightens around the terminal, which is just snugged up with an hand wrench.
JFP in PA replied to wyovino's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)It is probably the coil on that cylinder. I would pull the coil and look closely at it, if there are visible cracks, that is your culprit. You can try swapping the coil to another cylinder to see if the problem follows it, but if it is cracked, it is toast.
If the system was not open to air, you did no harm. This "switch" is there to get trapped air out of the PSM/ABS control network after repair work on the system has allowed air to become entrained in the system. During normal bleeding/flushing operations, it is not used. Unfortunately, the original service manual set of volumes is long out of print, but you may find a use one come up for sale from time to time. Because these manuals are the copyrighted intellectual property of Porsche, we can not permit individuals to post, share, or sell digitalized copies of them on RennTech.
JFP in PA replied to 996C4NDF's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Welcome to RennTech This is a common phenomenon when there is a problem the central locking/security controller under the driver's seat, often because it got wet. I'd start there.
I would highly recommend you substitute a proper line wrench for the line fittings instead of a simple combination wrench. We see too many butchered line fittings because people used an open end instead...…..