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Possible cause is the AOS (air oil separator); I'd advise having a look inside the air inlet pipes on the top of the engine for oil (a little oil makes a lot of smoke). Fairly cheap and easy fix if you're a DIY'er - I think there's a guide on here somewhere.
My '00 Box just started doing this (2 beeps then unlocks)... I can't seem to lock the doors using either the remote or with the key in the door. Is there a quick fix? I don't like the idea of my car sitting on the drive with no security whatsoever! There may be a quick fix - but first you need to hook up the Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS to find out where the alarm fault is. Cheers Loren; figured out how to lock it at least (2 quick stabs on the remote or 3 turns of the key in the doorlock) so at least there's some security.
My '00 Box just started doing this (2 beeps then unlocks)... I can't seem to lock the doors using either the remote or with the key in the door. Is there a quick fix? I don't like the idea of my car sitting on the drive with no security whatsoever!
My 2000 2.7 feels like it's running as flat as a pancake. I've recently replaced the MAF and thought it might be poor quality or faulty but it made no discernible difference when I disconnected it and took it for a 5 mile run. The car has an electronic throttle and idles evenly at just over 600 rpm on the tacho. I changed all the spark plugs (checked for correct grade) and coil packs approx 12 months / 5,000 miles ago. When I fitted the new MAF I took the opportunity to clean out the throttle body and air intake system as I previously changed the AOS due to failure. I have remade every join in the air intake system to make absolutely certain that additional unmetered air isn't getting in. I even swapped the exhaust headers back to standard but this seems to have made the situation slightly worse if anything (at least now I think the headers are better than OE). The air filter (OE) is as new, no CEL, all the visible vacuum pipes, electrical connectors, etc are connected and intact and draw through the oil filler cap is fine (not too strong). I have coasted the car from speed in gear and in neutral so I don't think it's unwanted friction in the brakes or drivetrain. I usually run it on BP Ultimate fuel. I'm thinking fuel delivery or pressure - possibly a partly blocked fuel filter. Anybody got any further suggestions?
HairyPotter replied to Loren's topic in DIY Articles - Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and RepairsWhy build 4 Shermans when you can build 1 Tiger?! Quality over cost mentality. PS. Ferdinand Porsche designed a hybrid-drive version of the Tiger 1 but lost the production contract to Henschel.
item no 230342113640 on ebay.co.uk, seller is partsdome (99.6%/6406 pos feedback) Got one! Thanks mate - you just saved me a lot of money! Arrived (and fitted) today. Took the opportunity to clean the throttle body, the pipes between the inlet manifolds and knock some dust out of the air filter element. Bit hesitant at 2000 and 5500 rpm to start with but went for a 15 mile run to settle it in and all's good with the world! :jump:
I have cleaned the old MAF 3 or 4 times (including when I pulled it at the weekend to double-check the part number. It helps briefly but it struggled through the emission test a couple of weeks ago and doesn't feel like it's fuelling correctly. For 76 quid it's not worth the hassle.
Hi I'm looking at buying a new MAF for my 2000 2.7 Boxster and on pulling the old unit I've noted the part numbers as follows: Bosch - 0 28 218 055; Porsche - 986.606.125.00. A seller on Ebay (UK) is selling replacement MAF's for reasonable price and includes the following statement on his ad: "Bosch 0280 218 055 For models with M620 e-accelerator, for original 99660612400 or updated 98660612501 Porsche units. Please double check your part number and comaptibility before the purchase." Obviously the Bosch p/n is identical but the Porsche p/n is suffixed 01 instead of 00 - does this have any bearing on the MAF working correctly or not or is it just Porsche listing an updated p/n?
LINK third pic shows a J-tube, if yours doesn't look like that then you need the Y-tube! I replaced mine a couple of years ago and took me about 4 hours and was the first job I did on a Boxster. You will need to access the engine from both top and bottom so axle stands are a 'must have'.