simbob

I'm so tired of getting mine reset when there's nothing wrong with the airbag or any other part of the system that this time I'm just going to let the light burn until the bulb expires.

Eric, Thanks for the calculator. I see that the 225/45-17 has the least rolling speed differential from a 205/50-17. That would reduce any effect on ABS sensors and any gyroscopic effect on handling, but what is the effect of a 10mm tread-width increase on handling, if any? First, I understand that the standard front tire size and recommended inflation pressure on the Boxster, when paired with the wider wheel/tread, lower-profile and higher inflation pressure of the rear, is intended, along with the standard suspension and alignment settings, to reduce the tendency of the mid-rear engine, rear-drive car to oversteer. Second, what is the effect of mounting a wider than standard tire on the rim, both on the rim and on the bead and sidewall of the tire? As I mentioned, the Boxster will be primarily my wife's car. She's a very good driver, but not trained for high performance, rear-drive handling, where the higher limits of the tires can be reached more suddenly and with less warning. Maybe we'll get her that training, but, in the meantime, I don't want to reduce the designed-in understeer safety margin of the car for her real-world driving. At this point, after some more research, it appears to me that, among the tires theoretically available in the correct size, the Goodyear F1 GS D3 might have the least tread pattern, structure, compound, handling characteristic and wear differential with the Fuzion ZRi's on the back, so I might see if I can order a pair for the front and replace the rears with matching tires when the time comes. I have time with the existing fronts for a reasonable back order wait. The other alternative I'm considering at this point is scrapping the Fuzions and replacing all four tires with a matched set of the relatively new Goodyear F1 All Season. This seems like it might be the safest route for my wife's daily use in a temperate 4-season climate, with winters where temperatures in the 30's are not uncommon and we have occasional ice and minimal snow. Having lived in Salt Lake City until this summer, she's an experienced snow driver, but that was in a clapped-out Camry. Thanks again. Bob

Mike, Thanks for your post and the link to your Boxster tire guide. I have a 1999 Boxster with the Sport Package, so it has the Boxster Design 17" wheels, with 205/50-17 front tires and 255/40-17 rears. When I bought it in August, it had new Fuzion ZRi's on the back and relatively older Bridgestone Potenza S-02's on the front. The fronts will require replacement much sooner than the rears, and I would like to match the new fronts to the rears, but I would prefer not to discard the two rear tires when they still have a lot of life left. In addition, the ZRi (made by Bridgestone) is roughly $100 per tire, while the S-02 is over $200 per tire. Unfortunately, it appears that Fuzion does not make a 205/50-17 ZRi. They do make a 205/40-17 and a 215/50-17. Is either of these "off-size" tires an acceptable alternative on a Boxster? Or am I better off buying S-02's for the front, living with different tires front and rear until the rears need replacing, and then matching front to rear by going back to S-02's for the rear? Or, is there another tire which would be better on the front for now which I could match on the rear later? I'm not inclined to buy off-size tires because of their effect on handling and braking, and buying the off-size Fuzion will commit me to the same problem for a longer term if they continue to be unavailable in the correct size for the front. If I'm doing the math correctly, the 205/40 tire has a diameter of 23.45 inches, and the 205/50 has a diameter of 25.07 inches (a difference of 1.62 inches). The ride height difference will be .81 inches. I would expect that lowering the nose by close to an inch and increasing the rotational speed of the front tires would have an effect on handling and braking (maybe including the functioning of the ABS), so I'm not inclined to use a the 205/40 tire. The 215/50 tire creates less of a diameter, ride height and rotational differential (diameter .39 inches larger, ride height .195 inches higher) and would seem to have less of an effect on handling and braking -- maybe negligible. On the wider tire, I am concerned about the dynamics with the rim and the effect on the shape of the sidewall. Although I am a former SCCA racer, I have no intention of using the car for track days or club racing, and even autocross is unlikely. It will be daily transportation shared by my wife and me (more hers than mine, and she doesn't commute) in all weather, with some spirited back road driving in the right conditions. I'm in Charlotte, NC, so snow is unlikely to be an issue, and we have another car for the few days per year on which our climate will make driving the Boxster risky. At this time, despite the price differential, I'm inclined to replace the fronts with the S-02 in the correct size and then replace the rears with S-02's when they are ready. I know you have expressed a preference for Michelins. Do you think it would be a better choice to replace the fronts with a Michelin alternative and then match all four by replacing the ZRi's with the corresponding Michelins on the rear when the time comes? Thanks -- and thanks to anybody else who has an opinion. Bob

Thanks, Maurice. Bob

I've been trying to figure out why my floor carpet padding has continued to get wet when it rains even though I know that all of the drains (3 front, two in each door and four rear) are clear and all of the top and window seals are intact and mating properly. The water was worse in the rear, and I suspected that the water in the front had migrated forward beside the seats. After reading here and at 986forum.com, I suspected a possible breach in the foam top well drip pan, probably in one or both of the forward corners behind the seats. I found a fairly significant tear in the foam behind the passenger side, where the various plastic fittings for the top structure secure. I patched it with a comination of waterproof gorilla tape and silicone sealant. The only other breach I found which did not appear to be part of the design was in the front left corner at the bottom behind the driver side door jamb, where the foam was split as if something about the size of my finger had torn through it. I sealed that corner with silicone. Before sealing the corner, I traced the path back to figure out what had torn the foam. I found that the plastic ball fitting on the rod which connects the top to the rotating plate for raising and lowering the top on the driver's side had sheared at the base of the ball. The rod was lying in the base of the foam drip pan, where it had apparently been sliding back and forth each time the top was raised or lowered and the jagged plastic had torn a hole in the corner of the foam. I removed the rod from the rotating plate. Here are my questions: 1. The plastic fitting which covers the ball on the top strut appears to screw onto the rod. Can the plastic fitting be purchased separately and be replaced without replacing the rod? 2. The end of the rod which attaches to the rotating plate has a rubber bushing which (based on the intact rod on the passenger side) looks like it is supposed to have two joined pieces which cover either side of the flat part of the rod under the torx bolt and over the connection point to the plate. The connection of these two sides of the bushing has torn and the bushing appears to need replacement. Can that part be purchased separately? 3. The rod is two pieces with a sliding fitting in the middle and an adjustment nut for the length of the rod. How do I determine the correct length for the adjustment of the rod? 4. Can I do this repair myself? 5. I assume that I should not operate the top until I do this repair (or have the repair done), in order to avoid strain from the imbalance of forces on the top structure and on the one operating rod on the passenger side. I have raised and latched the top. Is this the best way to protect the top until the repair can be effected? Thanks. Bob Sorry -- forgot to add: 1999 US Spec Boxster

Loren, After my wait period expired, the car went back to "PORSCHE" with the sound of power going to the speakers when I turn on the ignition, followed by "CODE ****". I entered 2845 with the preset numbers. Nothing. I entered 2847. Nothing. I entered each number followed by TP. Nothing. I entered each number followed by the down arrow. Nothing. I have tried every combination of the suggested numbers with all of the buttons and knobs -- entering each of the numbers followed by pushing each of the other knobs and buttons, and then pushing each of the other knobs and buttons before entering the numbers. Nothing. I can't even get it to tell me to wait now, even when I randomly push numbers and buttons. Depressing and holding the TP button also does nothing now. What have I done? What should I do? Is there a procedure for entering the code which I did not follow correctly? Is there another procedure I must follow now to correct my previous error? I have checked the other threads and posts about lost radio codes, and I can't find answers to these questions. Thanks. Bob 1999 US Spec Boxster WP0CA2985XU628976 Radio -- CDR-220 SN -- X5017877

Loren, Thanks. I'll try the suggested numbers this evening before I drive home from work. This looks like a great site, and I plan to contribute to keeping it going. Now I need to figure out why my floor carpet padding gets wet when it rains even though I know that all of the drains (3 front, two in each door and four rear) are clear and all of the top and window seals are intact and mating properly. I suspect a possible breach in the top well drip pan, probably in the forward corners behind the seats. It wouldn't be a Porsche if it wasn't a project to own and operate -- it's a good thing they go, turn and stop as well as they do. Thanks again. Bob

Loren, Will 0147 or 0149 (from the blchambray thread "another lost radio code") work for any Becker radio in a 1999 Boxster? My serial number is X5017877, and I don't want to go through the 1-hour "wait" again if I enter the wrong code. Thanks. Bob

Hi, Sorry to bother you, but the folks on the threads at 986forum.com suggested that somebody here might be able to provide me the code to reactivate my 1999 Boxster radio. I had to take the battery to perform some service, and the radio now wants the code. I bought the car used, and I don't have the original owner's manual or radio code card. When I depress and hold the the TP button and scroll with the tuning knob, I find what I believe is a serial number of X5017877. If there is somebody here who can help me with the code to enter to reactivate the radio, I would appreciate it. Thanks. Bob