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farmer boy
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About farmer boy
- Birthday 09/18/1972
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I wrapped some "self amalgamating" tape around the lugs and it worked a treat! Totaly silent!
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I used Beru plugs - you can get cheaper coil packs which I used and they are fine. It is a bit of a challenge to change the rearmost plugs so I would change the coil packs whilst you are "in there".... ....oh and I beleive anti seize is not recommended.
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I had a similar problem - (misfire cyl 6) which casued a rough idle. The garage decided it was a variocam actuator problem but I decided to change the plugs and coil packs first and that solved the problem.
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JUst to confirm that the advise from JFP was bang on and a new IAC valve has resolved all issues. Runs lovely now - Thankyou.
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Ahhhh that seems a much a more sensible idea. I did think about removing the exhausts but the various nuts and bolts looked very corroded so I decided to leave them alone... probably the wrong decision but still amazed at the difference it has made to the car. I would not be surprised if I was running on the original plugs and coils! Anyway it is now running better than it ever has and a new Idle air control valve has solved the tickover problem. :)
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Hi all, just a bit of a whinge regarding garages....... I have had a lumpy tickover for a while and when the engine is cold it will not tickover - fine after a couple of blips of the throttle. Took it into my local Porsche specialist and after connecting the computer and lifting it up on the ramp I was reliably informed that the variocam on the drivers side is stuck hence the lumpy tickover... I was a bit short of cash that month so elected to leave it for a bit. After a bit of research on here I decided to replace all of the spark plugs and coils - this made a huge difference but it was still a bit lumpy and would still not idle when cold. I ordered a new idle air control valve (£60 ebay) - took a few minutes to fit and everything is now perfect..... glad I did not part with my £800! ps checked the codes and all that showed was IAC valve - which is now cleared. Just wondering how they came to their original diagnosis? pps - the instructions for the new IACV stated that I should turn the ignition on without starting for 10 secs and repeat 3 times - what is that all about?
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I had EXACTLY the same issues and after a lot of messing about a new starter motor solved the problem. I know how embarrasing it is to push start a 911! .......just to clarify - the starter was working but only turned the engine over slowly - a bit like having a flat battery..... I fitted new alternator, new battery and checked all of the connections. Replacing the starter solved the problem - it apparently had a short "inside" and was "working" but very inneficiently. Tricky devil to change!
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Fabulous - I shall go and test them.... many thanks.
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Many thanks - I think they were the originals from 1998 so it seemed sensible to just change the lot whilst I was crawling underneath.... I have thrown them away now but thanks for the tip on how to test them. (I may just get one out of the bin and try it) Just a thought - I am sure they did not have 15 terminals - or is that a typo?
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Many thanks - much appreciated. The new IACV was only £60 (Bosch) so I think it was sensible to replace it. I will buy some proper sensor cleaner asap. :)
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The old plugs actually looked ok (Bosch) but the coil packs were in a dreadful state. All of the plastic cases were cracked and flaking although the metal bodies looked fine - just old age I guess. I fitted Beru plugs and the cheaper ARC coil packs (£16.50 each) and a couple of new heat shields - one was rusted to dust... I guess the UK weather has taken it's toll on all of the stuff underneath! So pleased with the improvement but a tricky job....
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Durametric was telling me I had a misfire on Cyl 6 so I elected to change all of the plugs and coil packs. After reading the advice on here it was clear that it would be a fidldy job but good heavens, what a pain!!! The plugs near the front are easy but the 2 at the rear are a nightmare. Next time I think I shall get the local Indy to do it! Anyway - just to note that the difference is truly startling.... I am amazed how I must have got used to gradually decreasing performance without really noticing it. She now pulls like a train and puts a huge grin on my face - well worth the effort and makes an outstanding difference. If yours are due for a change - do it!
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Many thanks - I have ordered a new IACV... I had a quick look at it and it was badly "carboned up" and a quick clean with brake cleaner had no real affect. Regarding the variocams - "Early ROW 996's can only trigger one bank's VarioCam actuators using the Durametric system"......... I assume that the Durametric and the car is behaving correctly? ie only 1 bank will respond to the selections in the software and the poor idle is due to the IACV? Mine is a 1998 UK 996 with the latest vesrion of the Durametric software.
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Hi all, I have recently revived my old 996 after 18 months off - it has been sat in my shed with a cover over it. All seemed well and after a new set of plugs and coils it was running very well apart from..... 1. It would not tickover after a cold start in the mornings - fine once warmed up. 2. Tickover is a bit lumpy - not a misfire just "hunts" a bit and is not smooth - drives fine. I have cleaned the throttle body, MAF and IACV valve connections which improved things a bit with a higher tickover speed of about 900 rpm. I then fired up the Durametric and (after updating the software) I find the following fault code - P0506 IACV. Whilst I was playing with the software I tried to start and stop the variocam actuators. Bank one appeared to be successful resulting in a reduction in revs and very lump tickover. Bank 2 had no effect? I assume bank 2 should do the same as bank 1? I am giessing that this may be (from my reading on here) a problem with the electronic control of the variocam - a solenoid of some sort. Can anyone confirm my analysis and recommend how to fix it (DIY)? Thanyou in a dvance.
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Thankyou so much - a good clean was indeed required. You are a genius!