Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

mjcaskey

Members
  • Posts

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Porsche 997S
    BMW M3 evo sport (e30)
    BMW 3.0 CSL
  • Former cars
    Lancia Delta integrale x3

mjcaskey's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. Just in case anyone was curious, I fixed the problem by puting the key in the door lock, and turning it to the right- clockwise, holding it there for a few seconds, the interior lights flashed briefly, and now everything is back to normal. Mike
  2. Hello, My 2005 C2s has rattled when cold from new. Tends to lasy about 30 secs and fades to nothing after that and never happens when the motor is warm. It is related to the exhaust in my case, or so I am told. I took it back to the dealer when new, fearing that a baffle was loose in the exhaust. Perhaps that is what it is I dont know. I have been told it is part of the emissions system and is a normal charecteristic. Anyway it has always been consistent and has not led to any problems over the years. The only other ocasional more annoying issue is that one hydraulic tappet sometimes takes a while to settle, that is much more engine relates, a regular loud 'tap tap', that fades in a few moments. I tend to change the oil annually as this tends to occur about 12 months after an oil change. The UK service system says a 2 year/20000mile oil change period, an interval that I think is too long. Mike
  3. Hi I disconnected my battery to recharge it. Now the main interior lights near the rear view mirror stay illuminated after engine start. The footwell lights work as normal coming on automatically and then off after engine start, but the cieling lights are no longer fully automatic. They only go out if I turn them off completely by stitching all three rocker switches to the right. If left in the auto switch positionhey do extinguish on locking the car after the usual delay. Anyone know why this may have happened as a result of a temporary battery disconnection? Thanks
  4. The front suspension rattle on my 997 is said to be due to the springs wearing through the rubber mounts. Is it easy to replace the springs as a DIY job? Thanks
  5. Hi. I have a 997 s, 4 years old, 28k miles, UK spec. The front suspension now rattles over small ridges or bumps, car drives/steers fine and handles well enough. Nothing to notice at higher speed, only at low speed around town. Is there a common reason for this? Dealer says the spring support pads (either end of the springs in the struyss) tend to wear through and the solution is new springs and pads. They originally sold me some new drop inks for the anti roll bar but now say this will not solve the problem. Anyone know? Mike
  6. The problem is the gearshift is stiff and problematic in the bottom 3 gears, this has been a difficulty for about a month, maybe longer. The gearbox is not repairable because the factory do not permit it. On the basis of moving the box selectors by hand the dealer says the box is finished. It is quiet and feels fine when on the move. Original brakes, front tyres, never tracked, used gently on commute only. 28k miles. A bit dissapointing. I wondered if there was an issue with the early 997 C2S gearboxes. thanks
  7. Does anyone have any info re early 997 C2S manual gearbox failure or problems. Is there a weakness re selection or synchro on the lower gears. My car is low mileage 28Kmiles and apparently needs a new unit. I have heard of issues with the early 997(1) cars like mine. Is there a common problem? Thanks.
  8. Thanks again. Total engine hours 4608. Total miles 28000 This calculates to an average speed 6mph, or 12mph if stood still idling for half total hours (unlikely). Total time driven per day would be 3 hours, every day of the year, for 4 years, again not likely or possible given work/family schedules etc. All this does not really add up given that I live in the country and the trip meter generaly gives 30mph average speed. Can the DME be removed/replaced easily? Does it have a serial number matched to the engine or chassis number? I am considering that the unit in the car now may not be the original. Can you tell me how I might reassure myself on this please. Mike
  9. Thanks, I am doing that. Silly question but what is the DME and where is it in the car please.
  10. Hi again, The dealer says the internal linkage within the gearbox feels rough and the only cure is a new gear box. No there is no warranty. Apparently they have looked at the cables and they are all OK. Re the DME data, do you know where this is recorded, is within the ECU? Would that be identifiable to the care with a serial number? Thanks, Mike
  11. Hi, I was interested to read this thread. I am currently in some difficulty as the local dealer says I need a new gear box on a 2005 997S with 28000 miles owned from new. The car is used for commuting pretty much every day, never been on a track, clean licence etc and never red lined. Yet they are quoting the engine data from my car as follows. Range 1 33364 Range 2 5780 Range 3 2199 Range 4 912 Range 5 209 Range 6 0 Looking at the above rev ranges I cannot explain the stats offered on my car. It would suggest that the car has been driven hard, which is not the case. Are the figures above for a 997 3.8? Is it posible that the data from my car is faulty in some way? How could I get it validated? Any advice? Also, any advice on rattling front suspension would also be appreciated (dealer says I need 2 new spring assemblies because the spring pan rubbers will have worn through). Overall pretty disappointed with the durability of my particular car. Thanks for any help. Mike
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.