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“ when I’m slowing down, I will be going at a given speed, the car will downshift a gear, I will feel that sudden slow down, the car will run at a lower speed, downshift again, and I’ll feel that sudden slowdown again. This keeps happening until the car reaches second gear, of course. “ Mine does the same, you feel the down shift and then the deceleration braking, I have a 97 2.5 if the trans slips and them jams into gear that is not normal, JFP is right about changing the fluid a friend of mine suggested an additive that their shop puts in Mercedes that works well on the sticky selenoids when the hard shifting happens, but I don’t have the name handy, will check tomorrow and post back!
I had a coil pack failure at 18 years and 67k miles and replaced them all, seat of the pants feels like it runs better than ever, so when one goes, bite the bullet and do them all. Save the old ones and carry a spare, you will NEVER have another fail, as long as you have that spare with you. Murphy's law.
I had a coil pack failure and feather footed the car home changed them all as they were all original and eighteen years old. Knew what the failure was as I had it happen to me in my wife Audi A4, lost two at once, factory recall. Now my '97 runs like new, what a difference. If you have your original packs, bite the bullet and just change them all at once, you will be glad you did.
Sure glad you posted the pictures. Last Feb. a friend and I cleaned his rads out when we replaced an engine. We had to replace the driver side radiator as the dirt that was trapped down in the lower corner had actually corroded the aluminum and had created a slight leak that kept the dirt damp all the time resulting in even further corrosion, we didn't think of photos until we were finished with the project. This goes to show if you have a suspected over heating problem don't just go for the thermostat, clean your radiators first and see the difference that will make. Thanks for the info and pics, that is what this forum is all about, and the best one on the web......Thanks again!
This is a great video on youtube from PMB Performance on the rebuilding of the rear calipers of the 914 It answers all of the little questions as to how these units go together. Just got done rebuilding mine and they turned out great!
I can't believe no one has responded to your question, everyone must be out driving their cars. It does sound like that may be the problem, check out the DIY on window regulator repair. I have just experienced a failure on my passenger side, It goes down with the top latch and the console switch but not with the outer handle, although I can hear the motor working so it is not the switch. Pull the door panel and let us know what the issue is, the motor noise when activating it without the window movement would point to the regulator in the door. Good luck, Paul
I have periodically experienced the same symptoms on the 4th to 5th up shift, It seemed to lessen after I changed the trans fluid and filter, my guess is a slightly sticking solenoid in the pressure circuit on the up shift. I have noticed that if you time the shift with letting up on the gas, as if you were shifting, it will shift normally with out the slamming. If you haven't changed your fluid, try that first, clean fluid if very important with these boxes. Hope this gives you some direction. :drive:
Maurice, here is the update on the top, the checklist was a lifesaver! You were right, it was the micro switch that activates the convertible top double relay, there were micro cracks in the solder at the pins on the cross strip, so we re-soldered them and still could not get it to work, there was still a problem within the switch itself on the ground side and it would not make a connection to the socket at the relay, so we replaced the switch and everything works as it should. What a test! After trouble shooting it all, it finally makes sense how all of the switches tie together. What a learning experience! Thank you so much for your help on this issue and I hope that others will find this thread helpful WHEN they have a top problem, as surely they will! This forum is the BEST! :thumbup: Paul
Yes, #5 relates to that, have done searches and can not figure what I am missing, that's why I questioned the alarm system although I haven't read anything that brings that into the equation, but on the diagrams it is tied in, the question is to what extent and if that may be an issue. Can't seem to find a trouble shooting flowchart for this system yet, there should be one out there somewhere.
Hello all, haven't posted in a while, no issues, though read digests daily! Helping a friend work on his 1999 Boxster and we have an issue with the top not working. The top worked last year when we put a hardtop on and we have just put in a non-blown motor to get this $3500 POS running again. This is what we know. 1. When unlatching the top the windows lower. 2. Removed motor and switch for clamshell, switch works properly and motor will run on the bench with 12v direct. 3. Both fuses are ok, and we have power to both fuses. 4. B pillar mico switch works. 5. Parking brake light works properly 6, Top control unit will work in my car, my top control unit will not work in his. Noticed on electrical diagrams that the control unit ties into the alarm system. The remote works properly, doors lock, alarm works, proximity sensor works and zone indicator works, beeps if area not closed. What are we missing. This thing is bumming me out. We installed another engine, which went well and it stated first try, top is the last thing to fix. Thanks Paul
Both products are good, I have used both along with Sikkens and Glasurit. Just go with what your painters preference is. I prefer to use the PGG product line as that is what I have the most supplies for and I like the durability, easy to touch up and blend in.