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  1. 12A2 generally means it needs an oil separator. On the passenger side on the back of your valve cover there is a small hole about 2-3mm in diameter. If you feel vacuum at that hole your oil separator has failed and is causing a vacuum leak.
  2. This is an old post but I can tell you for sure that you will need new maps to update your PCM to from 1.47 to anything newer. I have first hand experience with this.
  3. Just to reiterate what loren has said there really is no way to do the job without having the engine suspended from the body and the front axle sub-frame removed. The mounts sit down in little cups on the engine carrier and they have a stud that goes up through the brackets bolted to either side of the engine. Unfortunately this is really not a shade tree mechanic job at all on the V8 engines. Now the vr6 is a different story.
  4. This is very likely the result of the cam adjuster failure. I almost guarantee that the side you're getting the cat efficiency fault on is the side that the cam adjuster failed on. When the adjuster fails it pushes all kinds of fuel and oil into the cat in some cases (albeit fairly rare cases) and fatally damages the cat. Hopefully you're still under 7 years/70,000 miles and get covered under federal emissions warranty and if you aren't hopefully you have a good relationship with you dealer and they can push for coverage through Porsche. Whoops just reread your original post and noticed you didn't have a failure, you just had the campaign completed. In that case the cat is probably just bad. Exhaust leaks are very rare on these and nothing done under the campaign would cause this fault
  5. If you dont use the sun shades much there is also the option of having the dealer recode the car with the tester to not have sun shades. That will restore your window operation and they shouldn't charge much for the coding.
  6. Chances are you just have a bad battery, as someone else has mentioned sometimes these AGM batteries just die without warning so being on a trickle charger wouldn't made a difference either way. That being said the newer cars with AGM batteries will not reliably work with a cigarette lighter style trickle/charger maintainer, you'll need to hard wire to the battery. As long as you've called 1800Porsche you can expect to have someone that has been trained on these vehicles.
  7. Early cars did have problems with the thermostats, there was a campaign for thermostats and the updated part definitely fixed those issues. Water pumps on these engines v6 and v8 have been bulletproof, no issues there at all. I wouldn't put too much fair in those carfax repair records, too much gets lost in translation. The people doing the data entry on that know about as much about cars as I do about nuclear physics.
  8. Cool thread, sucks it had to happen though. Glad to see someone not scared of tearing one of these engines apart. Do you have the tools for reinstalling the wrist pin and pin circlips for cyls 4-6 when you're reassembling? Also just out of curiousity did you have an IMS failure or did you install the LN preemptively?
  9. Looks like I'm in for the same fix...but I'm having trouble with these part numbers. First, for the sealing rings, it looks like there's two parts with the same number: 955-201-133-01-M100 For that replacement part, the closest thing I could find was this one: 955-620-911-00-M100 Is that the correct piece? Thanks so much for the help! So in addition to the new flange (which is an updated part and should show up made of black plastic as opposed the original which will be white plastic) youll need two of 955-201-133-01-M100 and one 955-620-911-00-M100
  10. Nice job. This was definitely a common issue! I probably redid about 100 of those connectors. Don't be surprised if your light comes again at some point and you pull code 1218 for the passenger side!
  11. The procedure to replace the mounts by the book is pretty intense. We support the weight of the engine from the top, on the body. Then we have a special jack that has a huge jig with about 8 different mounting points. These all line up with holes in the subframe and body. Then we loosen and remove the entire front suspension and subframe. With that out of way you can remove the engine carrier and then replace both mounts. After reinstalling all those parts an alignment in required. There may be a quicker way to do it but none that I have tried or heard of. There is basically no room to work around the mounts with the car as it sits normally. They're really weren't designed to be replaced. I'm guessing most shops would charge around 7-8 hours of labor plus an alignment after the repair.
  12. Apart from the switches and the relays its not uncommon for the actual heater grid to go bad. I've replaced quite a few in my day. If you have a mulitmeter check for an open circuit in the actual cushions. I dont remember off the top of my head which connectors are which but the wires for the grid come out of the cushions and run to one of the connectors under the seat. You should be able to find it if you trace the wires back from the relay. If you find one of them is open circuit, there's your culprit.
  13. There are two different holes, one for bypassing the hydraulic pump so the actual top can be moved and one for manually running the clamshell. Make sure you're in the correct hole (LOL). If you are, try turning the screw while someone pulls on the clamshell.
  14. I would say something is likely bent. My money would be on a bent strut, ever hit anything with that corner? -.6 is a good bit of camber but not crazy though you'll probably notice inside edge tire wear on that corner. How does the car drive after the alignment? If it were my car and it drove OK and you don't notice any pulling I might ride it out and keep on top of checking the wear. If you do see accelerated wear then you'll have to pull the stuff apart and inspect for bent or worn out parts.

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