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In replacing the expansion tank I learned that the 2' cable clamp tool is very helpful in opening the hard to reach spring clamps, I got that toll at Sears for circa $ 20. I am going to try this myself, the car has no oil in it so it has to be towed to the mechanic if I choose not to DIY.
In changing the oil this weekend after two quarts all the oil spilled out at where the oil filler tube connects with the crankcase. The car has a bad idle, no crankcase vacuum due to broken oil filler tube and a hissing sound also from cracked oil filler tube? I have replaced the air oil separator and the coolant expansion tank, I know it is difficult to work in this area of the car has any one replaced the oil filler tube? '00 Boxster 120,000 miles.
An update, Yes the clutch arm was cracked, removing the transmission is beyond what I can do with jackstands a floor jack and a job. This was fixed by the usual mechanic, I asked him to keep the parts and in fact saw the damaged arm. Overextension of the slave cilynder is what caused it to fail, machanic installs my part, it breaks due to the clutch arm I pay for a new one. Replaced clutch and the rear two transmission mounts. Damage is $ 2,000 something, in reflectong on the fact that the car has 97,000 miles, and this is the firts time it sees a mechanic since I bought it in 2004, (2000 base BTW). On to new projects for the car, new two front Pirellis, the wheels need refinishing the local shop, in Los Angeles wants $250 per wheel, any better possibilities araoud here?
The more research I make is seems more likely that the clucth arm is broken or the throw out bearing is worn, a leaking slave cylinder would make the pedal spongy, instead the pedal required very high effort, all the way to the floor to disingage. I have read two examples on this on forums when a replacement slave ends up over extending due to a bad arm or release bearing.
2000 base 5sp, 95,000 mi. Removed the slave cilynder after finding a puddle of brake fluid under the car, dripping from the bellhousing. Inspecting the part I found that the plastic tabs the cap / seal retainer (original Sachs part, all plastic) are broken and allow the piston and seal retainer to slide out of the cilynder. This can happen if the clutch arm is cracked allowing the piston to overextend and break the retaining tabs, it was hard to disingage the clutch a few days before. I've seen pictures of this here and on other fourums, I am reluctant to brake a new slave cyl. I bought. What do the expert think about this?
An update, the metal clutch slave bought at the local parts store did not fit, the bolt does not align due to the tab on the transmission case not being the same shape as the bolt hole tab on the slave cylinder. Returned the part and bought a Sachs original part. Another concern here, looking this at this and other forums, it could be that the clutch fork arm is cracked allowing the slave cylinder to overextend, breaking the plastic tabs that hold the piston seal retainer. The car has 94,000 (2000 5 sp.) miles the clutch is worn and so could be the release bearing and fork arm.
Removed the slave cylinder, it is the plastic Sacks one, fluid was leaking at the rubber boot, in removing the booth the cylinder fell apart, the 4 plastic tabs that hold the cap against spring pressure fell, very little manipulation on my part, the 4 tabs are thin, I am assuming that the plastic has aged and become brittle, 13 years old part. Ordered a replacement at local auto parts store and should be here tomorrow, the replacement is Power Torque brand not Shacks, I need to finish this weekend. The part is shared with Audi which might be why is its available, the local Porsche dealer wanted 2 days and $ 107.47, local auto store was $ 69.99.
Clutch pedal on the floor today, towed the car back home and found a nice puddle of brake fluid under the car, so likely it is the slave cylinder. This is a 2000 Boxster 5 speed, there are two kinds of slave cylinders I see one with a clip connector, black and a long neck at the connector to the fluid line, and another type, silver and with a conventional screw in pipe connector to the master cylinder. Is one for 5 speed and the other for 6 speeds? I am not finding clarification for this online. Thanks
This morning, pushed in the clutch pedal to start the car and it remained on the floor and did not release the clutch. I am looking at the manual and I am beginning to understand about boost spring, now the pedal stays either in the up or down positions. It feels as if the pedal is disconnected from the master cylinder as if the pin to the master rod is broken, it did not feel like a hydraulic fail because the pedal snapped to the floor. In recent days I had to press harder than usual on the pedal to get the switch to allow the car to start. I am looking at the workshop manual and assuming that the pin to the master rod is broken. Has this happened before to anyone? Thanks Edit: Found a nice puddle of brake fluid under the car at the slave cylinder location. See my next post about which slave cylinder is correct.
I cut open the oil filter on the 2000 Boxster, I did all maintenence on the car since 2004 and without cutting the oil filte and r consistently found yellow / amber sealant bits. When the filter was cut open I found many very small bits of amber sealant 1/64" at most and many back hard palstic bits, likely from the chain tensioners. The amount of both types of residue is far from enough to clog the filter. This is on a one year oil change on less than 5,000 miles, Mobil 1 10w-40 High Milage, the car has 94,000 miles. Not good, for many years both the bimmer motorcycle and car, both with plastic covered chain tensioners, never showed this problem. The good part is that there were no metal fragments on the filter.
The SIR 9025 broke, the two prongs were of uequal lenght, the blades bent as a result. Next I'l try Lysle 56500, metal body wich better supports the blades and the metal sems to be better quality and hopefully thick enought to disingage the clips on the wire harness female connector.
In replacing a headlight bulb the blue AMP connector to the headlight housing broke. Now I have to repin the new connector to the harness. I used without success a SIR Tools 12 piece swiss army knife pin extractor tool, any suggestions for a better tool or on how to remove the pins ? The tool tip that fits the connector is a 'Flat Twin Blade 1.6 mm'. Thanks.
I am trying to remove the pins on the headlight connector using Sir Tools 12 pieces ST 9025, the tool tip that fits well is 'Flat Twin Blade 1.6 mm. It is not removing the pins, tried warming the connector with a hair dryier, no success. Help needeed. Thanks.