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My key turned all the way to the right without hitting the detent position start the car. I found out it was most likely the steering lock failed. Ignition Switch 99634701707 with the steering lock So I ordered that part from Sunset. In the mean time when I was ready to have it towed to my mechanic I thought I'd try the key again. Immediately notice it felt different and sure enough it was like the way it was suppose to be. I decided to wait and see what happens and haven't replaced the part. Drove it a few times and everything seems fine. I wish there was a way to lubricate the part but afraid to spray WD-40 or a dry lubricant because the tumbler is suppose to be coded and was afraid it might screw that up. I couldn't find a link on here for a problem like it. Any advice would be welcomed. 2001 Boxster 5 speed 70k miles or so.

Yep the light went out and the engine is much quieter. Bearings in the alt. were bad as well. For the last two years I thought I heard something different but just went with it.

Yes it was the alternator. It tested bad when I removed it and took it to a local guy. He also told me the clutch pulley wasn't working on it either. I decided to replace the tensioner pulley as well after reading the clutch pulley being bad would most likely effect the tensioner. Hopefully this will make the light go away. This is not a job for 65 year old knees ! Thanks for the replies. I figure the ignition being on with the smart charger running didn't do any harm.

Hello, my battery light came on. I replaced the battery because it was 8 years old but it seemed to charge just fine. Light is still on. I don't see any increase at the terminals with car running. 12.7 v I read other discussions on here. Would I just go to the alternator regulator next and is that on the back of the alt. ? Or is it in the ECU ? The other thing here is I put the roof up three days ago without starting the car. Left the ignition on, like a mallet head, put the battery tender on, it's the CTEK 4.3. So did I burn something out ? The old CTEK I had blew out a week ago. So this is a brand new one I made the mistake with. 2001 Boxster 68K miles. After I realized the mistake I made, the car ran fine for 20 miles. But after three short drives and starting the engine each time, is when the light came on. Thanks for any reply's.

I've been doing my own work too. Last year I bought a cool app for my cellphone called DashCommand that is a OB2 code reader. Only $10, plus another $30 for a wi-fi port sender. I had a thread on the particular codes I was getting. Ended up fixing it free by cleaning the MAF sensor and harness connection.

Go up to your user name and click on it, then managed followed contents, your probably following that thread.

On mine, you set the digital display to 80 degrees or a cold setting. Hit auto and it does it itself. Or choose manual and pick a temp, set up or down on the fan speed. I understand the OEM pump is a plastic propeller for an important reason. So if it does wear out and starts wiggling, the propeller wears rather than the engine case. I got mine from Sunset Porsche for around $250 plus gasket. Your welcome for the video ttocs, pretty slick machine. After buying the brake power bleeder and seeing how easy it made the flushing process so easy. My brother told me about this device.

If you turn the heater on, do you get heat ? If not, then I doubt your circulating coolant. Pedro's Garage has something in his forums where he does a trick by elevating the rear of the car and getting the air bubble to come out. Might want to give that site a look before draining the system again. Did you use a OEM pump ? Because it has to spin right ? Or did it break because it hit the engine right away.

I certainly bow to your knowledge of these cars, but after talking with Pedro, I went this way. But you're absolutely correct. It would be better to do as you say. I have an OEM pump ready to go. Just being lazy.

When I bought my first and only used 01 Porsche Boxster, I called several Porsche dealers and asked to speak to the service manager. Some are good, some are not. But on first try, I found a very good one. He told me what to listen, look and pay special attention to. ( like the convertible roof going up in equal amounts, very expensive repair. ) If you're going to do ANY repairs at a dealer, it's exceedingly expensive. Oil leaks in certain areas can be deadly and others repairable. ( I study these forums, and then go to an indie mech. were I direct him, what to do. He has a lift, I don't. I also pay him extra so I can be a picky pain in the ***. ) But I am a mechanically minded, just to old. Read about the IMS bearing failures and figure out if you want to live with that threat to the engine. I have, and so far, so good. If there are any codes like Check Engine, a ob2 code reader is cheap app on a smart phone, but again, you need to know how to approach it. This forum is invaluable for those codes and what they might mean. I had a code last year and Loren gave me ideas to chase, and I fixed it with just a spray cleaner on the MAS harness connection. Cost nothing. Service history is important in my opinion because being a steam turbine tech, ( master welder ) in power plants for 30 years, I believe in preventable maintenance. Finally, it's a gamble for sure. If you have a bad feeling, walk away. Maintenance at Porsche is crazy costly. Crazy ! But man, what a car. I love it, even as old as it is. It still runs like a new car. Perfect. If it died tomorrow, I wouldn't *****. I'm 59 and I sold my 1961 Austin Healey 3000 when I got married in 77, and always missed that open car, go-cart, feeling. So this has been my replacement and not regretting it. Hope this helps.

Just buy the one that fits your year and model. Again the power bleeder is incredibly easy.

That being said, and yes, every year clean out that area, mine typically runs in that area on the gauge. Still on my original pump and coolant at 63k, and a 2001. (per Pedro's garage not to mess with the pump.)

Yes if the missing parts of the propeller are now clogging the cooling system, particularly in the small engine channels, this could be an issue. Also the famous not correctly refilling the coolant could be it. A vacuum device sold, is a good investment. It sucks all the hoses until they collapse. Then allows the coolant to go into the system with no spaces that prevent circulation. I have one in mine if I ever do the water pump. It's only a $100 clams. It works a lot like the power bleeder when flushing the brake fluid. Just so easy.

Only if you're extremely lucky. If you have a smart phone or iPad, a very cheap app is available called Dash Command. $10 via Apple Store. Then a obd2 to plug into the port. I bought a specific one on Amazon that comunacated with my model phone via wi-fi, not blue tooth. I was having some issues and this proved invaluable for a total of $ 40. It also shows a lot of engine info while running. I just kept clearing the code P1126 and trying different things. Good luck.

Well put everything back together again after spraying the intake system with an alcohol based solvent I have, with the motor running. ( i've used this stuff as a starter fluid ) No uptake in RPM's anywhere. Cleared codes. Sprayed the connector to the MAF sencor with an electrical cleaner that's suppose to enhance connections. ( 2-23) ( did not disconnect battery or MAF ) The next day I took it out for a ride and noticed it ran a little rough. Like when you disconnect the battery and the computer is relearning it's settings. Started running better after a short trip. Later in the day on a much longer trip, I had to think this car is really running well. A little better than usual. So I guess I'll see if they come back and then do the pressure check. And find someone with an automotive smoke machine to look for leaks. Well three weeks have gone by and all is good. No codes and idle is much smoother. So maybe the MAF sensor cleaning did the trick.