Rolla

Now I have posted this on another website so I am going to try and explain my issue better in hopes of some better ideas of what is going on. The main issue is when reversing my car and turning the wheels I hear a thumping/rubbing coming from the front end of the car it doesn't seem to matter if this is first thing in the morning or after a long drive. It doesn't seem to matter what direction I am turning the sound/feeling is the same. I know it is cold here and that might place a little part in this but won't I experience the same thing going forward and turning? I would really like to try and figure this out without having to take it in. Thanks in the advance.

Anyone out there have words of wisdom on how to go about adjusting the front hood? I have gaps that are not correct and I am trying to fix that. Thanks in advance.

Maurice, I'll take a look at those sites. As for the question you posed at the end you are correct that the forward top surface of the door is the issue. Thanks Joel Joel: Here are two websites that sell specialty tools: http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm and http://www.zdmak.com The first one looks like it has a tool made specifically for this purpose. Look at Part MN6525 - Hinge Ratchet Kit with Specialty Bits, about 3/4 of the way down the page. Maybe after you look at that tool, you can devise your own version with either a box end metric wrench which would grab and turn your torx bit (out of its socket), or a ratcheting box end wrench that would operate the same way. Before you try to loosen the fasteners, make sure that you mark the outlines of where the fastened plates are on the body so that you have a reference point. Also, if you don't have one of those body shop door dollies available (not many people do), be sure to devise some way of supporting the door so that you can control its movement once you loosen the fastener. Remember, there is a lot of weight hanging way out there when the door is not supported by the striker plate (when the door is closed), and it takes a very small adjustment to achieve the desired effect. From your description, I am assuming that the forward top surface of the door (the part of the door nearest the rear of the front fender, just below the bottom of the window when the window is fully raised) is the surface that is sticking out slightly, correct? Regards, Maurice.

Maurice, After much work I have found out that yes the door does stick slightly out at the top edge so that is a major source of my wind noise. Now I am working on adjusting it. The only issue is I don't seem to have the right tool to loosen the bolt holding the door at the top. There is not enough room for my torx socket and ratchet to fit in there. Any clue as to where to find a tool to loose them or will I have to remove the door to get at them? Thanks in advance. Joel Joel: Sorry to hear that your wind noise is still not gone, and worse yet, that you had to take it to the local service place. Is it possible that your door itself is misaligned? Measure the gaps between the door to the front fender, between the door and the sill, and between the door and the rear quarter panel on both sides of the car. The gaps should all be between 4 and 5 mm. Compare the measurements that you get between the passenger's side door and the driver's side door and see if the driver's side door is "off". Also check to see if the driver's side door vertical surface is absolutely flush with the vertical surface of the rear quarter panel. If the door's surface protrudes even slightly, that might cause wind noise at the window. There are a few adjustments that can be made to get the door to fit just right, and the easiest one to make is the adjustment to the striker that is bolted to the rear quarter panel by means of two large screws (it's the flattened u-shaped chrome part on the forward face of the rear quarter panel). Before you try to make that adjustment, check to see if there is any play in that striker, as that is the most logical place to get a little loose and cause a misalignment. The other adjusting points are at the front hinges, but they are a little more involved and much easier to mess up. You have to have a way to support the door if you loosen those, and there is a special door panel support dolly that body shops use that make that process much, much easier. I'm not sure about that clunking noise. Regards, Maurice.

Well after having the window adjusted at a local service place and checking all the gaps and measurements myself I still have a sounds of rushing air just over my left shoulder. Almost sounds like the door is partly open. I have even tried the piece of paper being shut in the door to see if it pull out too easy around the different parts of the window but it looks and feels great. Is there anything else out there I should try? Also after all this now when I put the window down I hear a "clunk"/"thunk" when the window "hits" bottom. Any advise would be great. Thanks in advance.

Maurice, Yeah I have tired that but where I am at it seems to be on the fine line between quiet and wind noise is maybe 1mm so now I need to draw the line again and tweek it little by little :-D. Joel :renntech:

I would vote for the Pilot PS2 as well. I had a set on my Boxster and they where great and the rears lasted for 30K+ miles. When the Pilots on my 996 finally go I am headed right back for the SP2's.

Yeah. I am still not there I think I need to adjust the front of the glass up some because there is still window noise but we shall see at least the gaps look right now. Joel

Joel: Judging from the photos you supplied, there is a remote possibility that you can make enough of an adjustment to the window without removing the door panel. Since it appears that you have a larger gap at the top rear of the front window than at the bottom rear of the front window, you can try to "pivot" either just the front or both of the window regulator legs by the following method: Pop out the two INBOARD rubber plugs found under the door bottom on the driver's side. The very edge of one of these two plugs is pointed out by the red arrow in the previous photo that I posted. Once you remove the two INBOARD black rubber plugs, you will have access to the single (10 mm?) nut that holds the base of each of the two window regulator legs to the bottom of the door. Note that each window regulator assembly has two legs (that are raked back at an angle similar to the rear edge of the door) and that each leg is fastened 1) at the bottom as described directly above, and 2) near the top at one of the two points pointed out by the red arrows in this photo: At each of these two points, the top of the regulator legs are helt in place by small bolts. What you are trying to do here is to "pivot" the window regulator legs on these two attachment points by moving the bottom of the legs forward, without having to access the small bolts (which would require removal of the door panel). I would first try to loosen the nut at the bottom of the FORWARD leg and then move the stud (that is pressed in to the base of that window regulator leg) TOWARD THE FRONT as much as possible, then tighten that nut on the stud again. Then operate the window and see if you have gotten any improvement. Be very careful not to shift that stud (and therefore the leg that it is attached to) in towards the center of the car or out away from the side of the car, as that will affect the corresponding angle of the window as it travels up and down. The angle that you want to avoid altering with this attempt is the one that would cause the flat pane of the window to angle further in towards the inside of the cabin or further out towards the outside of the cabin as it travels up. You may have to also do the same for the rearmost leg of the window regulator as you just did for the forward leg, to keep the window even. By doing this (either just the front leg or both), you may be able to get the gap at the top rear edge of the window to get smaller, because in effect the window will be "raked" back further. You may then have to again tinker with the up and down adjustments through the other holes and the torx screws, as I described in the previous posts. If this method does not work, you will have to remove the door panel and make the proper adjustment by loosening each of the two clamping jaws that hold the glass in place and then sliding the glass towards the rear so that you end up with the same gap as you show at the rear of the passenger's side window. Keep us posted with any results. Regards, Maurice. Maurice I cannot thank you enough for all your help on this issue. I ended up having to pull the door trim off to adjust the thing. There I found the main reason for my pain. Broken glass. So it seems whoever put the replacement in went lazy on adjusting it. I think I have it 90% now just a few more hours of adjusting it and it should be good to go :-D. Thanks for all your help. Joel

Well ok I think I had the wrong idea. Is there a way to adjust the window front to back ? it seems that I can only find angle and up and down. Thanks in advance. Here are some pics of the issue. Drivers side Passenger Side

well it did sort of help but now as I look at it more I see that comparing my driver's side to passenger side I see the gap between the window and the rear window is much larger then the other side. The drivers side has a gap almost the width of my thumb. where the passenger has a very small gap so I am going to try the nuts there to move the window back. THanks again.

Thanks Alot!!. I will have try this out when I get home. Rolla: There are four rubber plugs located on the door bottom surface. To adjust the height of where the window stops, you must first remove (pop out) the two OUTBOARD plugs. Then, reach through the holes with an E6 Torx driver and turn the screws, one at a time until you achieve the desired adjusmtent. To keep track of how much you have adjusted, mark the top of the window with masking tape or, preferably with a wax pencil, tracing the top surface of the window where it meets the seal at the top. There is a little more than 1/2 inch of adjustment through this method. Note that the Torx adjustment screws are on an angle, raked back at an angle similar to the rear edge of the door. Here's a photo that should help you get oriented: Note: The green arrow shows the outboard plug that must be removed, at the forward part of the driver's door. The red arrow shows the very edge of the inboard plug (which should only be used to adjust the inboard/outbard angle of the window by means of loosening and then shifting each leg of the window regulator). With a little patience, you should be able to minimize or eliminate the wind noise. Regards, Maurice.

Well I have a 2000 C2. When driving on the highway at 70 there seems to be a lot of wind noise like air leaking in from around the windows. Is there a way to adjust the height of where the window stops or is this just another window regulator gone bad? Thanks in advance.

Well I am tracking down a oil leak on the passenger side of the car. I have found that it seems to be leaking from a bolt at the bottom of the engine towards the front of the car. Does anyone out there know what the best way to fix this type of leak? thanks in advance.

are the Bushings on the rear trailing arms replaceable? I was under the car and noticed what looked like grease on both sides!. Maybe 2 years of driving on bad city streets has caused issues. Any info on this would be great thanks.