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vwelch

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About vwelch

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    http://www.vwelch.com/911/
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  • From
    Champaign, IL (USA)
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 996 Carrera 4

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  1. Thanks kbrandsma, your directions and photos were very helpful. In my case, either reseating the relay and the plug in the back of the potentiometer did the trick (I did both without checking in between). I never was able any get any sort of connectivity reading on the potentiometer with my multimeter. That doesn't make sense and I cannot explain why.
  2. Thanks for the directions (and for those who posted pictures, which really helped). In my case I was just replacing the switch, but one of the set screws was stuck so I ended up pulling the whole lock assembly to get at it (yes, I wish I had just ordered the whole lock assembly and replaced it). My suggested improvements to the directions: First, as others have suggested, go ahead and take off the instrument cluster: I used these directions. It makes things much easier to be able to get in from above.Once you get the cluster off the there is a cowl around the column you have to remove: first remove the two Torx screws; then it's not entirely clear what the right procedure is, but I was able to rotate the cowl 90 degrees and then it flexed enough to come off of the column.[*]Removing the key cylinder was the hardest part for me, probably because I didn't know where the number 1 position was. Turn the key as far as it will go before you would be starting the car. Then the paperclip should go in a couple of inches. Once you get the key in the right place, the paper clip goes in without too much effort. (I suspect some people may be having problems because their switch is broken and the key is not catching in the normal positions; I suggest just keep turning the key and trying the paper clip.)[*]Reading the directions, I though the silver spring button to release the lock from the column was tiny. It's about the size of a pencil eraser. If you remove the instrument cluster, it (as well as the 10mm bolt) are easy to get at.[*]Reassembly - I also had no problem getting the housing into the steering column.[*]Before you put the key cylinder back in, reconnect its wiring harness. It is much easier to do before you put it back in. I ended up taking it back out, plugging in the harness and then re-installing the cylinder.[*]Getting the key cylinder back in was a little tricky. There are three things that have to line up: (1) the receptacle for the electrical harness and the slot it fits into, (2) the tab on the back of the cylinder (that turns with the key) and the corresponding slot it fits into, and (3) a blue rim on the back of the cylinder and the slot it fits into. The receptacle and the blue rim are fixed, so you need to turn the key to align the tab with its slot; look in the lock and notice the position of the slot the tab fits into and turn the key so all three things line up. If you pull out the paper clip and the cylinder doesn't catch, don't worry, with the cylinder out, it's easy to get the paper clip in and try again. About halfway down the side of the cylinder is a spring loaded tab that sticks out. The tab has a hole on one end, which is what the paper clip goes into to hold it in, allowing the cylinder to be removed/inserted. Squeeze the tab back in, turn the key to the right position and the paper clip goes in easily.
  3. [Nevermind, for some reason I thought that thread was in the boxster section. I see now I'm wrong. You can ignore this post.] Loren (or any other helpful soul), Looks like this thread is pertaining to boxsters - does the 996 use the same switch module? Or is it a different part. My '00 911 is having the same symptoms as described in this thread. So I wedged myself under the dash (ouch, I'm not as young as I used to be), removed the air duct and looked at my switch. I'm not sure its the same - mainly the color is different, mine is purple instead of the black shown in the picture. BTW, the air duct also seems to be a royal PITA to get back into place. I think the trick is to put the small side on first. Many thanks, Von
  4. One follow-up: When you change your stereo, you need to put a piece of tape (non-conductive) over the middle third of the side of the stereo nearest the driver, otherwise the car will honk every time you lock it. No, I'm not making this up :-) Thanks to gdscntry's post in the following thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2949&hl=
  5. Hello all. First post on this forum. I'm a new 911 owner (2000 C4 Coupe). Just wanted to share my experiences installing a Blaupunkt Seattle in my newly acquired 911. I apologize if this information is well known, but I couldn't find it online and Crutchfield doesn't know anything about my 911 in terms of compatability, so I wanted to share in case someone else finds this useful. In summary, this is a no-brainer. This was the easiest car stereo install I've ever experienced (granted I've only done a half-dozen or so in my life). As I found hinted out on the net, the German auto makers and car stereo manufacturers seem to have actually standardized both physical and electrical interfaces. The situation is that I was replacing the stock Harman/Becker CDR-22. Why? The CDR's CD eject mechanism seemed to be broken (CD came out and went right back in, fast fingers needed to change CDs). And I also wanted MP3 support and an Aux input for a MP3 player (via extra adaptor I ordered along with the Seattle). Might get a CD changer in future, but I haven't decided to give up trunk space at this time for one at this point. I'm still using the 911's stock amp and speakers. The internal amp in the Seattle is unused at this point. I already had the stereo removal tools (although they are different from my Audi, the set I got for it included ones that worked on the 911), so it was just a matter of removing the CDR, unplugging the connectors, plugging them into the Seattle and sliding it back into place (w/o the sleeve). Hard to believe, but it was that simple - took 5 minutes going slow. Lots of connectors came with the Seattle, but I used none of them. I will mention that I did find one posting stating that the switched and constant on power wires needed to be swaped for the case of an install in a '97 911, but I did not find this to be the case for my 2000. In terms of the appearance of the Seattle in the 911, I'm fairly happy. I wanted something that would not distract from the car itself and it seems like most of the car stereos these days look like a Radio Shack threw up on them with gaudy LCD screens displaying flashing graphics nearly constantly. The Seattle is a little guilty of that, but not too bad. I used its menu to select the amber color for the buttons and that matches the other interior lights in the 911 fairly well. The big blue light in the power button does look a little out of place I have to admit. Hope someone finds this useful. Happy driving. Von
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