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amcleod1
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About amcleod1
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Problem solved by replacing the brake light switch. These forums have always proven extremely useful to help me keep away from dealers or indies and bucks in my pocket. My car (996 C2 MY2000 RHD) began showing ABS/PSM fault lights very intermittently after starting with foot on brake but before moving off. Turning off engine and restarting initially seemed to clear the issue for that drive. Some trips gave no fault lights at all. But progressively it got more frequent for the ABS/PSM fault lights to come on during each trip and at a random brake application. Durametric showed me code 4460. This switch is easy to remove, but a real PITA to install in the bayonet lock due to its position up under the dash, and with limited access due to HVAC ducting. I ended up removing the air duct feeding the side vent to give me access, then lying on my side on the seat and reaching unsighted up and under the dash to push and turn the switch 90deg in the mount then connected the wiring.
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Passenger door squeak
amcleod1 replied to machster's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Try some self adhesive clear teflon or PTFE tape. -
Wheel Spacer Question
amcleod1 replied to slackc's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Congrats from a fellow aussie owner. Had mine now several years. Try the TSB section - you'll need to be a contributing member to view. If you aren't highly recommend you join. Here's a link to one TSB on tyre and wheel sizes for 996. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display§ion=download&do=confirm_download&id=203 -
Hi, I had similar issue. I replaced AOS and no more smoke. I have video of pre and post AOS change if you want to compare to what you're seeing. PM me your email address and I'll send.
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Connector Identity Help
amcleod1 replied to zman2002 C4S's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Hi, Does it connect to the vacuum solenoid, the light grey device also shown in the picture. The vacuum solenoid does not seem to have a connector. -
Yep - removing the windscreen defroster vents/grills was a challenge but can be done without breakage. They're in there tight. I think the real trick is to know exactly where the lugs and mating clips are on the underside of the vent/grille and then pry them out directly vertical ever so carefully with plastic trim removal tools and lots of protection on your precious leather dash. I was replacing painted with leather trim so was lucky to have the leather replacements handy so I knew where they were. I got them out by working first from the middle prying straight up. When I got stuck around the speaker area, I then came at it from the A-pillar end. Using the trim tools, some I came at 90 degrees to the edge, others parallel. Needs plenty of patience.
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Other related instructions... Pages from 996 Group 6 and 8.pdf
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Hi, I've attached the workshop dashboard dismantle/remove/install instructions (this post), as well as other related instructions (next post). I recently dismantled the dash (steer wheel, instruments, L&R side vents, centre vent, pass air bag, front defroster vents) to find and eliminate a number of creaks and squeaks. Workshop instructions were pretty good overall. My Centre vent area was a little different to the pictures but not hard to work out the differences. Make sure you have the radio removal tool, and plenty of plastic trim removal tools. Be very careful when prying open all the plastic lugs that snap into the metal clips - take your time on each especially around the defroster vents. Be careful with the drivers airbag contact unit - break a prong and dig deep into you're wallet. Suggest you also invest in various widths of felt and foam tape as well as teflon tape, for the trim re-install to avoid creating new creaks and squeaks - I was very generous in applying tape where ever I thought two surfaces would come into contact. Check out some of the TSB's on dashboard noises. Hope this helps. Pages from 996 Group 7.pdf
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Rear Suspension Noise
amcleod1 replied to dsnow's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Hi, only bottom nuts. The bolt is actually a long stud into the chassis. The torque for the two nuts is 81 ft-lb. While I was there I check all the torques for the nearby nuts. -
Rear Suspension Noise
amcleod1 replied to dsnow's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Rear Axle Torques attached.... Tighening Torques for Rear Axle.pdf -
Rear Suspension Noise
amcleod1 replied to dsnow's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Hi, I might have had the same problem. If the same it's a simple check and fix. The nuts on the studs holding the rear suspension side member had come off-torque. Re-torqued them correctly no more noise going over speed humps etc. See image.
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Hi guys, I have the regulator ($40) and front bearing ($30) now. Just need the rear bearing. Any fellow 996ers in US or Europe able to help me out by checking if the rear bearing (Bosch P/N F 00M 990 405) is available. If so, send me a PM with quote and shipping to (you and then to) Australia, post code 2120, will send you payment via paypal. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Ok all fixed. The original oil leak was the #4 Spark Plug Oil Protection Tube leaking. Dropped the muffler, removed the coil cover plate, coil #4, spark plug #4, pulled the oil protection tube, replaced both inner and outer o-rings (bit of lube) and reinstall. 5 days later not a trace of oil. Presto. Also On day 5 I replaced the AOS breather tube connection piece (with new o-ring) and new o-ring on the breather tube as well. Very tight under all those hoses, and cable bundles. Hopefully this will fix the small oil sweat around this area too. (suspect it was due to a loose bolt holding the connection piece to the cylinder head).
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Thanks Richard - its good to know its smart enough not to allow down shift causing over-run. I went back overnight and agree, I found lots of Porsche literature saying its not possible. e.g. From the MY00 owner manual : "Gear changes which would exceed the upper or lower engine-speed limit are not executed by the controller." There is identical statement in the MY03. Now I can stop checking which gear it's in before down shifting and just drive it.
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I have a 2000 tip, been manually downshifting for over 3 years without problem. Only thing I recall reading is that it is possible to downshift manually and cause an overrev situation - bad. Also read somewhere that under braking in auto mode if you briefly WOT the tip will select the correct gear for the speed. Not tried this. Going the other way no problem. Launching a tip in manual mode from first to fourth or fifth with wide open will not overrev engine - ecu controls it all for you. Plenty of noise and Gs.
