isakpede

Hi. I have a power drain problem on my 1994 928 GTS. I have measured (and eliminated) the drainage to be at connection K24 in the Central Electrical panel. The consumption is 120 mA when K24 is connected and just 20 mA when it is disconnected (with the doors locked and alarm activted). I have studied the electrical drawings but cannot figure out what K24 is connected to. The only thing I know is that I hear clicking under the centre console or under the drivers seat when it is energized. Anyone who have had similar experience or can interpret electrical drawings better than me? :huh: Regards isakpede

I would have changed them all, if I had all these parts when I did the job. This job is not so complicated, just one screw in addition to the two on the cylinderhead. The plastic-pipe tends to be brittle, I guess that is the reason why it is included in the kit. Be sure to fasten the new hose-clamp properly with a pair of suitable pliers. If you are unsecure on how to do this and have trouble getting the correct pressure (compressor does not stop), change the two screws, the o-ring and the piston ring and see if that rectifies the problem. If not, you might try to change the rest of the parts. isakpede

It is fully possible to replace the starter without removing coolant pipes. It is very narrow, but it is possible, be patient and don't give up.... One hour job alltogether, if you have the servicemanual with the torques for the inletmanifoild, starter etc. I was also a fool not to replace the starter when replacing the coolantpipes....

Hi. Several months since I was in here now and it is a pleasure to see that people still find my DIY on the compressor overhaul usefull. No, you don't need a torque wrench, just do not overtighten the screws. The secrews are only 6mm as I can remember, so be carefull not to overtighten and damage the threads in the compressor body. If you do, I believe you have to buy a new compressor...... Isakpede

Hi. YOU GOT A LEAK SOMEWHERE. Get at spraybottle, fill it with a consentrated solution of dishwasher soap and water. Spray on all connection points and bellows on all the wheels and connections under the car. Under the car you also have the valveblock, think it is plased near the compressor somwhere. The plasticpipes has different colores to each wheel and will be easy to spot. You most likely got a leak somewhere. The buffer tank is placed somwhere in the trunk, it has some connection points that could leak to. Be sure to do it on all three positions of elevation also. Good luck

Hi. I have just replaced mine with a Varta Silver 110A battery. That is the battery the Porsche dealer recommended here i Norway. The original one was also a Varta battery. Buy it from a sertified Varta battery dealer instead of Porsche and you might save 30%. The size is ca 390x170x190mm. Unscrew the two bolts holding the driverseat (located under a plastic cover in front of the seat on each side) tilt the seat in a backward position, you may have to adjust the seat to be able to get it all the way back. Unscrew the fastening part for the battery and disconnect both pole cables and ventilastion hose. Lift out the battery and replase in opposite order. It might also fix some other weird problems with your car as well..... Remember to clear all fault codes when you are finnished. Good luck,

Hi I just want to add one additional sparepart you should change out while you are at this job. Change out the cooling breather pipe with the part number 948 106 016 03, see part 20 in the attachment below . The price is just around 35$. This pipe and it's connections gets very brittle and cracks just for a good word, due to long service with hot fluid and hot environment. I experienced a leak on the test drive after installing all the parts.:angry: One tip of getting the upper old pipes out is to saw them in two, drill a hole trough them, put a big screwdriver in the hole and jus bang the pipe out with a hammer. On lower bigger pipe, you have to be careful so you don't damage the knocking sensor and wires that is hidden under the pipe. I also experienced that the ends of the pipe got stuck left in both ends. :censored: Safety Also disconnect your battery ground connection, cause the starter still has power on it even if the ignition and key is out. If you i.e. get your watch between the + connection on the starter and the engine block, the watch may melt stuck to your wrist....... or at least blow some fuses and maybe damage the electrical systems on your car. Thanks for a good description, I would never dared to try without it.... :thankyou: Regards

Hi. The overhaul kit does not contain the pressure sensor but i guess it will resolve your problem. Check this DIY thread, it will help you. Its only a 30 min job. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25621 Good luck :)

Hi. Sorry but it is way to narrow to get a good picture of where the temp-mix servomotors is mounted. But I can sure tell you that it takes a good porsion of patience and som sore fingers to change them out. My suggestion is that you buy the servomotors for both sides and get a drawing of where they are placed from your dealer. If only one is broken now, you will probably have to change the otherone in a short time. On the driverside you have to remove the covers above the pedals to get access to the left side of the midconsole. On the right side you need to remove the glove compartment to get access to the servomotor on the right side of the console. There are threes servomotors on each side so be sure to pick the right one. You can try to adjust the temperature between max and min to figure out wich one that are not working properly. The motors are fixed with three torx T20 screws. Those are the challenge to get in and out without dismantling the rest of the dashboard. I used a T20 bit and a litle fixed spanner to do the job. Good Luck.

The car has been driven i Spain most of the time. Just passed 90.000 km. Guess its due to change the pipes. Leakage probably increases due to freezing temperatures (crack opens as the pipe gets smaller at low temperatures). Have not seen any signs of leakages/ponds under the car. But still, 2 liters in two months is yet not that visual. The car is also usually not parked in a garage. I guess an internal leakage in the engine is not a big issue on the CS, since it is not often discussed in the forum.....

Instructions and a parts list are in the TSB. TSB 45/07 1961 Coolant Pipe Leaking -- dated Feb 22, 2008 I am not sure if cracked coolant pipes really is my problem, but I have experienced alarm on low coolant level on two occasions now. One time in mid january and last time in the end of march. Both after start up in cold weather (-10 Celsius). Had to fill two liters of coolant each time. Could it be other reasons for loss of coolant than cracked pipes? Thanks for any answers.

Hello again. Think I found it. It was attached on the underside of the plastic cover. It has the part number 7L0907643. Can't erase the fault code, so I guess I have to buy a new. By the way, what does this sensor do?

Hi. Could anyone list up all the spareparts (with numbers) needed for this job? Thanks in advance!

Can anyone tell me where to find the air quality sensor?

70$ each servomotor. But do you have problems with cold air on one side and hot on the other? If the heater blows on an of by itself it might also be the controller.

RFM. This damper is truly available separately here in Europe :D The part number is: 955 423 389 00. The price is around 50$ and just a 3 minutes job to change it out. The solution for this problem is already in the post. It's just 50$....

Hi and thanks for answers. I changed the servomotors due to fault codes on these. Had some problems with temperature regulation on left side, changed both to be sure. Opened the servomotor and it seems like the little plastic wheels and screws are just worn out. (bad Bosh quality, different manufacturer on the new ones) Can anyone tell me where to find the air quality sensor? I got under voltage during testing of the servomotors, and had to recharged the battery. But it seems like the Durametric is not able to delete and reset the fault code for the load management system. The indication shows ca 12 v after stopping the car. Should it be more? If I change the battery, is it advisable to use the charger to keep power on the car while i change it? This car has only one battery beneath the drivers seat. Do I have to dismantle the driver seat to perform this operation? Any idea what battery suits this vehicle best? Isak

RFM. This damper is truly available separately here in Europe :D The part number is: 955 423 389 00. The price is around 50$ and just a 3 minutes job to change it out. Isak

Updates. Changed the temperature servomotors on both sides of the dashboard today. It was very difficult to get the bastards out due to the narrow spaces in the dash. I could post some pics if someone is interested.... It is a not recommended job for people with big hands... Still wiping the blood of mine.... (And I got pretty small hands.) But now the temperature regulation works fine on both sides. Also bought a Durametric tool wich I used to clear some faultcodes in the AC system. Eventually my auxillary heater seemes to work fine again :-) Isak

Hi. Can anyone help me with these fault codes the Durametric read out of my Cayenne today and what to do to resolve them. 907 Load management operat. on vehicle. Could this have anything to do with the engine vibration/misfiring from 1200-1600rpm on high gear shifts? 1592 Air quality sensor I changed both servomotors for the temperature mixing valves on left and right side today. My hands are sore and all scratched up, due to the narrow spaces in the dashboard. Hope I never, ever have to this job again..... :angry: 778 Steering-angle sensor When reading of the fault codes in the PCM system with the Durametric, I got an PSM alarm on the dashboard when I reset the fault code. When I start up the car and drive, the warning disappears. Any ideas why? Something to worry about? Thanks in advance Isak

It was just a pleasure Mudman! :D We have all spent enough money on VAG parts ........(i have owned a couple of VW and Audi's too....) Just for the record, the compressor has a price on 1500$ at the Porsche dealer here i Norway. The same compressor for Tuareg at the VW dealer in the same area has the amazing price of almost 3000$.. :o ... (but VW sell the repair kit though). Glad too be able to help others with the same problem. Hope i avoid problem with the struts. Owned a Allroad once, which i had to change one in the front. That was a job with 600$ in parts and a couple of hours in the garage, but i believe the same parts for the Cayenne is a bit more expensive and the job a bit more complicated. Isak

Thanks Loren. 1. Resolved 2 and 3 have to be checked and get done next visit at the dealer. (8 hours drive away) 4 and 5. I have allready ordered a new A/C control unit. Hope this will solve some of the A/S issues. Hope the dealer program it correctly before they send to me. The TSB's on the forum mention only VIN's for USA and Canada, do you know where i could get the TSB's for European models? Is it possible to resolve some of the A/C programming issues and fault codes with a diagnose tool from ie. Durametric. isakpede

Hi! I have read a lot on the forum lately, and it seem to be smart to post some questions regarding to the problems i have with my 04 Cayenne S. Problem 1: On my last service the Porsche workshop here in Norway, changed all the coils and spark plugs on my 04 Cayenne S. I see from the receipt that the part number on the coils is 948.602.104.05. Is this the correct part number? I have red some threads on the forum, and i see the number 948.602.104.03 is also mentioned. Could you please tell me which number is correct for my 04 Cayenne S? Problem 2: I also have problem with rough idling on the engine and hard gear shift from 1. to 2. gear when engine is cold. The car practically "leaps" forward if you are to hard on the accelerator. I am not sure any TSB's has been done for this, since the previous owner lived in Spain. Could this be a missing software update on the tiptronic or the DME? Problem 3: Another problem that concerns me, is that i feel hesitation and vibration from engine when pressing the accelerator pedal when the engine is at low rpms and ie. 6 th gear. This would be from 1200 through 1600 rpms, which again the engine sounds fine and the vibration is gone. What do you think can cause this? Could it be clogged air intake filters? Know that the last owner lived in Spain where there often is a lot of sand and dust in the air. Could this also be a missing software update on the tiptronic or the DME? Problem 4: My ventilation system had a fault code on the right temperaturmix servomotor, but the temperature on the right side can be regulated, but not on the left side. The left side practically blowes cold air constantly, temperature does not change whether the controller is on HI or LO. Problem 5: My auxiliary parking heater is dead, it don't start up when programmed (only the timer starts). The remote control is not getting contact with the control unit either. What do you think can cause this, is it the control unit. I once took out the fuse for the controller that fixed this problem, but that didn't work this time. Problem 6: Solved. I constantly got warning on fault on air suspension after start up of the car. I bought the repair kit for the air compressor with VW part number 7LO 698 030 (thanks to RFM for the tips) and put 30 minutes of labor into it. Now the alarm has disappeared completely. The kit was expensive, around 200$ for one piston ring, one plastic hose connector, one o-ring and two 6x80mm stainless steel bolts. But compared to the price of a new compressor it was worth it. It is interesting to see that most of the problems that i have found on my car, is the same problems that are most discussed on these forums. Once i got these problems fixed i hope the car would be more or less problem free for a while :rolleyes: By the way, which diagnosing tool would you recommend? I have read some about the Durametric and it seems like a good product. I live some hours drive from the Porsche dealer, so it would be convenient to have a diagnostic tool to read out and reset fault codes. By the way, thanks for a great site, it has helped me to resolve a few problems on my car already (hatch struts, air suspension warning, fault on hatch door lock etc) Best regards Isakpede Norway Contributing member.

Hello. I had the same problem with "air suspension faulty workshop" alarm everytime i started the car. I have put a description with pictures in the DIY section. Hope this might help you with your problem. Regards isakpede